Summer jackets 8: Hardy Amies

The final two of my spring and summer jackets features will look at a brace of contemporary labels, one British and one Italian. You will be able to read about Brunello Cucinelli in the next post, but today I focus on what has become a classic British label, Hardy Amies.

Indigo linen fine weave single breasted jacket by Hardy Amies £595
Shirt, Milton Green

We received three jackets from Hardy Amies for our summer jackets and blazers feature. The brand that needs no introduction at all, other than to say that the cool tailoring, beautiful construction and gorgeous fabrics made these a delight. 

The indigo fine weave linen jacket (above) was crisp, lightweight and sharp; the two chevron linen double-breasted jackets (below) with peak lapels were soft, cool, comfortable and fun to wear. I'd sum up as describing them as classic yet very contemporary.

Yolk linen chevron double breasted jacket by Hardy Amies £595
Pocket square, Age of Reason

Grey linen chevron double breasted jacket by Hardy Amies (right) £650
Shirt, Thomas Pink
Pocket square, Deji George

Suppliers
Hardy Amies
Milton Green
Thomas Pink
Age of Reason
Deji George

With infinite thanks to:

Styling - SartoriaLab

Photography - Nick Maroudias

This feature is not sponsored.

Summer jackets 7: Two from Thomas Pink

Thomas Pink not only sent us two summer blazers to try, they also sent some very stylish shirts which were ideal for summer. They have an impressively stylish range of menswear, from suits, shirts and blazers to accessories such as underwear, ties, cuff links and belts. 

These jackets were well-made, cool and comfortable; the navy blue Breakspeare was slightly more formal in cut than the casual cotton of the pale green Hepper jacket. We loved the slub silk navy and cream silk scarf from Marwood, perfect for cooler spring and summer days and evenings. Suppliers' details below.

Thomas Pink Breakspeare linen jacket £425
Thomas Pink shirt

Thomas Pink Hepper cotton jacket £295
Navy & cream slub silk scarf Marwood
Shirt Thomas Pink

Suppliers

Thomas Pink

Marwood

With many thanks to:
Shaun Cole

Styling - SartoriaLab

Photography - Nick Maroudias

Summer Jackets 6: Two from Oliver Sweeney

Oliver Sweeney is in my good books. Its use of an older model for the current spring/summer advertising campaign shows a creative, confident and cool approach to menswear. This is a brand that sees its clothes on men of whatever age and is not afraid to be open about that. I like its products and attitude and urge you to support them.

Oliver Sweeney Beaumont Redwood cotton blazer £295
Shirt, Dundas
Chinos, Spoke London
Egyptian cotton summer socks, Pantherella
Shoes, Cheaney

We were sent two jackets to try for this feature. A neatly-tailored cotton unlined blazer and a navy water-repellant cotton and polyacetate cycling jacket with reflective trim, action back and a number of details such as an attachment for a bike light; ideal for that ride across town for a meeting. Both were nicely-made and well-designed.

Try Oliver Sweeney's new store in Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, London if you are visiting the capital. There's much to see, enhanced by delights like a bar, interesting collaborations and a display of vintage watches for sale.

Oliver Sweeney Langton navy cycle jacket £295
Jeans Made in England, Quantock
Trainers Made in England, Norman Walsh
Socks, Pantherella

Cycle jacket back detail

Suppliers

Oliver Sweeney
Dundas Shirts

Spoke London

Pantherella

Cheaney

Quantock

Norman Walsh

With infinite thanks to:

Styling - SartoriaLab

Photography - Nick Maroudias

This feature is not sponsored.

Summer jackets 5: linen blazer from award-winning Without Prejudice Menswear

Without Prejuduce. No, this isn't a letter from a firm of lawyers. Without Prejudice Menswear manufactures stylish and quality menswear in Europe. A few weeks ago they showed me round their collection, which is an impressive mix of styles suitable for all ages of man, from business suits, casual jackets and blazers to shirts, ties and pocket squares. Here I feature one of their summer jackets.

Linen jacket Without Prejudice
Shirt & pocket square Tripl Stitched
Jeans Quantock

This linen jacket is cut slightly on the short side, although not too short for my tastes. It has an action back, neatly-detailed buttons and lining and pockets are well-finished. With its patch pockets and sporty style, this is the closest to what I would define as a genuine blazer of all the jackets I feature this week. The bright pale blue linen is good quality, looking nicely crumpled but not cheap. It is half-lined, making it cool to wear on hot days.

I was able to preview this jacket, which will be available soon on the Without Prejudice website and at stockists later in May.

Without Prejudice started small in North West London and is now stocked in many countries around the world and in various shops around the UK, or you can buy online (details below). Their success was recognised when they won Drapers Menswear Brand of the Year Award in 2014 (Drapers is a professional journal for the industry).

They pride themselves on their customer care and are a lovely bunch of people, so give them a try.

Suppliers

Without Prejudice

Tripl Stitched

Quantock Clothing

I was given this jacket by Without Prejudice before this feature was planned. 

Personal styling, Sarah Gilfillan, SartoriaLab

Photography, Nick Maroudias

Summer jackets 2: Marks & Spencer - one budget, one made in Britain

As ever, Marks & Spencer gave us an interesting selection of summer jackets to choose from. We tried one that is the lowest price of all the jackets we tried for this feature and one that is made in Britain as part of their excellent Best of British collection.

M&S Collection slim-fit cotton jacket £69
Shirt Tripl Stitched
Pocket square Age of Reason Scarves

Both jackets are comfortable and well-made. They represent good value and, in the case of the second jacket, give access to British manufacture and a luxurious silk/linen blend at a reasonable price.

Many of our accessories are made in Britain as well. The lace pocket square From Marwood is a thing of exquisite beauty and the Liberty print shirt is for the man who likes to express his personality. Age of Reason pocket squares and Tripl Stitched shirts are personal favourites of mine. A list of suppliers and links is provided below.

I will be featuring summer jackets all this week, so please call back.

Linen/silk blend Best of British collection at M&S £299
Liberty print shirt from Susannah Hall, Tailors
Pocket square, Marwood

Suppliers -

Marks & Spencer

Tripl Stitched

Age of Reason Scarves

Susannah Hall, Tailors

Marwood

Photography - Nick Maroudias

Styling - Sarah Gilfillan, personal stylist of Sartoria Lab

With thanks to Shaun Cole, Course Director at London College of Fashion for modelling for this post.

This feature was not sponsored.

Style for the older man: the unstructured jacket & the rise of smart comfortable wear

The rise of British manufacture has revived skills which are bringing shapes and styles to menswear which have roots in a long heritage. Tailoring has long British traditions in producing formal suits, jackets, blazers. These are all structured garments with lining, internal canvas pieces and a construction that makes them formal and shaped in appearance.

Older man style: an unstructured jacket allows me to wear a suit, but feel comfortable, as if in jumper and jeans

But another style of jacket has been revived in the last few years. It's unstructured, unlined or semi-lined, and comfortable, with soft shoulders, patch pockets and even (as mine above) shirt-style cuffs. It's generally cheaper than a tailored jacket because it has its roots in the working coats that used to be turned out for engine drivers, bus conductors, mechanics, road repair and factory workers.

Workers needed to wear a garment that was cheap to produce and allowed freedom of movement while looking reasonably smart (this was a time when men, however humble, still took pride in their appearance). These characteristics are exactly what younger, middle-aged or older men are now looking for in their search for smart but comfortable casual wear.

The rise in popularity of this style coincides with the deformalisation (if that's a word) of menswear. Men now wear suits for both semi-formal and casual wear, encouraged by the comfort that an unstructured jacket brings. I find I now throw on my Oliver Spencer linen/cotton mix suit (pictured above), with its unlined jacket, as readily as I might a cotton jumper and pair of chinos - and I feel just as relaxed. 

Such styles are available from many menswear labels that design and/or manufacture in the UK including -

Old Town
Tender
Private White V.C.
S.E.H. Kelly 
Albam 
Cro'jack
Universal Works
Oliver Spencer and others.

Try them and you'll find a coat jacket that's immediately comfortable. The tailoring won't be as sharp or the fit as snappy as a structured and lined tailored jacket - but that's the strength of a garment that is fuelling the rise in comfortable, smart casual menswear.

Rowing Blazers by Jack Carlson: a book review for Henley

ROWING BLAZERS is a celebration of the jaunty symbols of team spirit flaunted by rowers at Henley (which starts this week) and other regattas. Written by Jack Carlson, who has rowed for the USA and Oxford in the Boat Race, so will know a blade from a rigger, the book is beautifully illustrated with photographs by F.E. Castleberry. Incidentally, although billed as a book about the blazer, it's also a fascinating history of many rowing clubs of the world.

I rowed at one of the schools mentioned in the book and remember the magnificence of the blazers sported by the 1st and 2nd Eights. Like war paint, a garish blazer is designed to strike fear into the opposition before their boats are even in the water. It does this by oozing tradition, history, club and sporting elitism and privilege - and why not; as long as it's not taken to seriously? The bright colours also helped spectators to identify crews in the confusion of a busy regatta. 

Two things struck me. Firstly, how little the blazer has changed since worn by early crews in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. In this, of course, blazers reflect the slow evolution of classic menswear. Indeed, some of the blazers shown look old enough to have been worn by the grandfather of the present owner. Secondly, I had assumed that rowing blazers would be a UK and US thing. However, I was surprised how wholeheartedly they have been adopted, humour and fun included, by rowing clubs all over the world.

I particularly appreciated the note on tailoring of blazers; 'relatively unstructured, with patch pockets and a soft shoulder' just about sums it up. There is also brief mention of the adoption of the blazer by mods and the preppy movement. Today blazers form a part of menswear collections such as Hackett and Ralph Lauren - I hope they will never go away.

A big change in the rowing scene since my day is the welcome arrival of women to the sport - and they are shown wearing blazers as well as, if not better than, their male counterparts.

A book not only for every lover of rowing and its history, but for every lover of classic menswear and (of course) blazers. Published by Thames & Hudson, price £35.

Jackets and blazers for spring and summer

For spring and summer wear, the unstructured jacket, with linen, cotton, silk and even lightweight tweed or flannel components, is ideal. The absence of lining makes it lighter and cooler. Its informal shape means you can take it off and throw it over one arm without worrying about creases; they're all part and parcel of wearing lightweight jackets and, in my view, improve the looks.

Image origins not known - please get in touch if this is yours

Most jackets follow the conventional structured approach, with a lining and internal pockets - the fit is generally looser, thicker and more formed than the unstructured jacket, which has no (or only half) lining, fewer pockets (where do you put the lining? There will instead be external patch pockets).

Being unlined, the fit is usually closer, slimmer and more casual. It will follow the curve of the shoulders more closely and move with the wearer more easily. One of my favourites is an unlined tweed jacket bought at a Ralph Lauren sale. So comfortable is it that I wear it around the house like a familiar old cardigan. 

Image from Esquire

Nothing looks better for semi-formal or casual wear on men of any age than a blue unstructured blazer, cream or khaki chinos or jeans, a pale blue denim shirt, suede brogues or desert boots and a red polka dot pocket square (and some red socks). Add formality with a knitted silk tie in a plain or lightly spotted primary colour. 

Shortly I'll answer a reader's question about where to find unstructured jackets at all price levels.

Hackett half-lined linen Delave blazer from here 

Benson & Clegg and their beautiful buttons

When I first saw the website of Benson & Clegg, bespoke tailors in London's Piccadilly Arcade, I was struck by the large selection of buttons available. Made for blazers in particular, they usually stock some 150 different varieties representing some of Britain's most prestigious military and academic institutions, as well as a large range of historical and decorative designs. 

Benson & Clegg's stand at the Coronation Festival this year at Buckingham Palace 

Made from a variety of different metals, they are either engraved or made as a 3-D design, for which a die is made. Often called brass buttons, they are now rarely made from that metal, which tarnishes quickly. They can be gilt or plated metals, silver or bronze. Many finishes are available.

I love the traditional nature of these buttons and am planning to buy some for a blazer being made for me at the moment. B&C are often commissioned to design and make buttons for individuals, families, clubs and commercial organisations. See Benson & Clegg's website here and my earlier post on owner and Master Tailor, Ken Austin, here.

Some of the different types of button supplied by Benson & Clegg - Grey Fox image 

The die, soft lead impression and final product - Benson & Clegg's Jubilee Button - Grey Fox image 

Benson & Clegg buttons - Grey Fox image 

Benson & Clegg buttons designed for a golf club - Grey Fox image 

Surely not a Grey Fox button....? 

Five ways to wear a blazer - Mr Porter video

As is said in this video, every man should own a blazer. Extremely versatile, it can be worn formally with trousers or chinos, or less so with jeans or shorts. My favourite combination is with denims, chambray shirt and brogues. 

This video from Mr Porter gives some ideas.

Bradley Wiggins, Royalty and the double-breasted jacket - recreating the look

Bradley Wiggins, the first British winner of the Tour de France and winner of 2012 Olympic Gold in the Men's Time Trial, won the BBC Sports Personality of the Year 2012 award with typical double-breasted mod swagger, set off by a large gold pocket square.

Wiggins's suit was made by Mark Powell, tailor to the stars. But isn't the double-breasted jacket the preserve of the older man, the every-day wear of the Establishment and Royalty? Grey Fox investigates.

Image News168

The two grainy images below must have been taken many years apart, but they show the timelessness of the classic double-breasted blazer, and how it has been loved by the British Royal Family for over 70 years. The naval origins of the blazer are obvious, as would be expected of a nation with salt running in its veins, and whose Royals have a strong naval link.

Many of the Royal males wear them, in particular for less-formal events. 

So how does Bradley Wiggins fit into this very traditional, Establishment look? Well, it's often said but true, it's not what you wear, it's how you wear it. Royalty make the DB blazer look elegant, Wiggo makes it look young, mod and, again very elegant - helped by the slim cut, an athletic frame and the daring use of velvet.

How can we recreate the look for the man of style, suiting any age? All images below from Mr Porter.

Michael Bastian wool/cashmere blazer

Slowear Incotex straight leg wool trousers

Canali

Etro

Gucci

John Lobb Becketts classic Oxofords

Blake London Ltd - British blazers combining Savile Row style and NASA technology

Blake was founded earlier this year by Darius Pocha who, inspired by an old Harris tweed jacket of his dad's, determined to make high quality jackets by mixing Savile Row style and luxury fabrics with high technology. When I met Darius at Best of Britannia he showed me his beautiful jackets, all lined up on display. Having tried on a blue blazer, I was very reluctant to take it off, so good did it feel.

The blazers are made with top quality fabrics, but NASA technology comes into them as well. Each contains a heat management lining, developed by NASA to deal with extremes of temperature when space suits are worn on space walks, when one side of the suit experiences extremely high temperatures, while the other is correspondingly well below freezing. The fabric evens out these extremes and Darius has cleverly used this to enable these blazers to be comfortably worn between chilly city streets and overheated boardrooms - a cunning idea!

As you'd expect, the detail and quality is impressive, but I'll let the pictures do the talking. See Blake's website and Series One Lookbook here.

The essentials of a classic wardrobe - Part 1 - the jacket or blazer

Nine months into my search for style, what items form the basis of my wardrobe, the classics that are useful for any eventuality? The following are staples - jackets/blazers, chinos, brogues, jumpers, deck shoes, shirts, suits, jeans. I haven't yet sorted out outerwear, so I'll exclude that for the time being.

Let's start with the jacket or blazer. I go for a fairly classical shape (not too short or long, conventional-shape lapels etc) and wear it for all occasions, formal or not. Coming in a wide variety of styles and materials, it can be the most versatile and useful item in the wardrobe. Make sure it fits well, particularly across the shoulders; avoid a baggy fit and over-long sleeves.

I can't remember where I found this picture!

You may want to start with a traditional blue blazer, which will come in any material or weight to suit your use. The most formal have a conventional cut and are lined. The less formal may be unlined and unstructured. A blazer is infinitely adaptable, as it can be worn with formal trousers, jeans or chinos. Try a lightweight wool one (maybe cashmere) which will be wearable in all but the warmest weathers. Later on you could buy a linen blazer for summer use (see below). Wear with brogues, suede shoes, deck shoes, Converse (if you must) etc. Match with a formal shirt with or without a tie, polo shirt (I like this combination) or even a t-shirt if the jacket is of a less-formal cut.

Canali wool blazer, Mr Porter

Paul Weller wears a blazer in anger

Next we have the humble tweed jacket. Definitely cooler weather wear this one - I love the infinite colours of tweed and the popularity of the material means that jackets can, if needed, be bought with modern slim cuts. Otherwise go vintage or borrow your dad's jacket. Wear with any trousers or jeans; best with brogues.

Richard James Donegal tweed blazer, Mr Porter

Mr Mort

Finally, for summer, I love linen. There's something about the crushed look that brings out the relaxed rebel in a man. Often  mixed with cotton or silk, its open weave makes the fabric wearable in the hottest weather.

Oliver Spencer linen suit jacket, Mr Porter

Crumpled linen.

And some blazers in action - photos The Sartorialist and others unknown - you may recognise some of these pictures from elsewhere on the blog.