What's a man to wear at Goodwood Revival?

I made a very late decision to go to Goodwood Revival this year and, of course, couldn't get tickets*. The annual festival of vintage motor racing, music, aircraft and much else gets increasingly popular every year. It's the sort of event that it's not worth attending unless you dress appropriately. However, it can be hard for a man to decide what to wear, so here are some ideas from images taken last year. 

Unless you go dressed as a fifties car mechanic, or a member of the armed forces, the commonest outfit for a man is something forties or fifties in style. No skinny jeans or short, tight jackets - it's all about generous and comfortable tailoring; the look of the British gentleman.

Vintage clothes are a specialist market and for the enthusiast, but you can out together the look with modern clothes. The demob suit would be ideal, otherwise a tweed suit or jacket or blazer (or linen if it's warm) with a shirt, tie and cap or hat. Brogues or traditional English-made oxfords, derbies and boots are essential footwear. Add a cravat from Cravat Club to complete the classic look.

Image of Grey Fox by Jonathan Daniel Pryce - Goodwood Revival 2014

My tweed suit (above) was made for me by Susannah Hall Tailors, shoes by Loake and hat by Failsworth. Last year's Goodwood Revival was warm and a linen suit might have been better - this year looks as though it will be cooler.

Whatever the weather, have a wonderful time. Goodwood Revival, 11-13 September 2015.

*I should add that kind souls have since offered me tickets, but I have had to turn them down as I'd made alternative arrangements (which you'll hear more about soon) when we first realised that tickets were sold out.

Style for the older man: the unstructured jacket & the rise of smart comfortable wear

The rise of British manufacture has revived skills which are bringing shapes and styles to menswear which have roots in a long heritage. Tailoring has long British traditions in producing formal suits, jackets, blazers. These are all structured garments with lining, internal canvas pieces and a construction that makes them formal and shaped in appearance.

Older man style: an unstructured jacket allows me to wear a suit, but feel comfortable, as if in jumper and jeans

But another style of jacket has been revived in the last few years. It's unstructured, unlined or semi-lined, and comfortable, with soft shoulders, patch pockets and even (as mine above) shirt-style cuffs. It's generally cheaper than a tailored jacket because it has its roots in the working coats that used to be turned out for engine drivers, bus conductors, mechanics, road repair and factory workers.

Workers needed to wear a garment that was cheap to produce and allowed freedom of movement while looking reasonably smart (this was a time when men, however humble, still took pride in their appearance). These characteristics are exactly what younger, middle-aged or older men are now looking for in their search for smart but comfortable casual wear.

The rise in popularity of this style coincides with the deformalisation (if that's a word) of menswear. Men now wear suits for both semi-formal and casual wear, encouraged by the comfort that an unstructured jacket brings. I find I now throw on my Oliver Spencer linen/cotton mix suit (pictured above), with its unlined jacket, as readily as I might a cotton jumper and pair of chinos - and I feel just as relaxed. 

Such styles are available from many menswear labels that design and/or manufacture in the UK including -

Old Town
Tender
Private White V.C.
S.E.H. Kelly 
Albam 
Cro'jack
Universal Works
Oliver Spencer and others.

Try them and you'll find a coat jacket that's immediately comfortable. The tailoring won't be as sharp or the fit as snappy as a structured and lined tailored jacket - but that's the strength of a garment that is fuelling the rise in comfortable, smart casual menswear.

Guest post - A collection of vintage leather bags - Holdall and Co

I love old leather goods, polished to a patina by age and use. I knew that Raimonda Navickaite, founder of Holdall & Co, had a collection of old leather bags which has influenced her beautifully-made leather folios (see here). 

Knowing her passion for the sort of quality that lasts through generations, I approached her and she kindly agreed to write about her collection for Grey Fox.

How often have you found yourself carrying something with sentimental value? A watch once worn by your grandfather, a jacket handed down from your father or the leather wallet you received on your 18th birthday? These things are no longer just objects, but follow you through life like an old friend, reminding you of the journey that it had been on previously in others' hands and the journey that it has joined you on. These are precious memories that you will cherish for ever.

A few of my favourite bags

My own journey of buying second hand or 'vintage' (as we like to call it these days) started some 8 years ago when I bought my first bag. I remember picking it out of a small collection of bags and instantly falling in love with it: a little worn clutch that nobody seemed to want. From the moment I picked it up, my mind started racing; imagining all of the places it might have been to, who could have previously owned it and the stories it held - I couldn't help but feel fortunate to own something with history and to have the chance to be part of the next chapter. Soon after, I went off to study at a university in Yorkshire and found some amazing vintage places to spend my overdraft on; from there my collection of vintage bags and cases seemed to grow steadily.

A lovely, simple document pouch, large enough to fit US legal documents, with a clever locking zip to keep everything safe.

So here I am writing a guest post for the very lovely Mr Grey Fox, who thought that you might enjoy seeing some of my favourites. I must state that not every one of the bags in the pictures is usable and some are in need of repair, but I can't help but enjoy owning them, even if for now they sit on a shelf.

There are many aspects of these bags that I enjoy, but of all, my favourite is the badge they proudly bear: 'Made in England'. You can't help but imagine the time that someone had spent designing it down to the smallest detail, to the people that had put it together piece by piece, starting out with nothing more than a hide of leather and a cutting knife.

A stunning briefcase; with a really masculine lock on the front and a comfortable padded handle for when you've weighted it down with all of your work.

This is all the more important, especially for my generation who have grown up believing that most things are made solely by machines - we disassociate ourselves from these products and the people that play a part in their production. There's something special in knowing that someone whom you've never meet has put their care and attention into making a beautiful product for you to enjoy.

As a credit to good design, I'm always surprised that even though these bags were designed and made decades ago, how relevant they are in our life today. How the simplicity of the design has become classic and now effortlessly blends with its surroundings as fashion makes its way back.

I love the shape; it reminds me of the arches at old railway stations.

We seemed to have become so used to our 'throwaway' choice of life, from the plastic cups and plates we take to eat with to the fashion we wear. As fun as it might be to wear the season's latest trends, we seem to have lost a great deal of respect for our belongings in return. We no longer care for them like people used to. Repairing and restoring things seems to be quiet rare, and worse, fewer and fewer of us have things that have been passed down to us or even have something that can be passed down to our children. Our high streets seem to be filled with disposable goods, making it hard to find items designed to be cared for or made from the quality materials needed to last, a reason for which I see many people like myself turned to buying more vintage items.

Even though it's in need of some repairs, this satchel style briefcase is my favourite of them all; a practical and friendly looking bag with the perfect proportions.

Summing up what I love most about these bags; simple construction finished with a classic British Cheney lock and the echoes of its past owners (charming hints at the bag's life in Birmingham and Wales - I wonder if anybody still does this?)

Last but not least the classic 'Gladstone' style case. Incredibly heavy so it wouldn't make a very practical hand luggage case for today's traveller, but in its day would have made a really dominant statement with its bold and brash looks; nothing is subtle with the sturdy riveted corners, unwelcoming hinges, large stitching or with its sheer size.

Just over 12 months ago I started a little company called Holdall & Co. It has been 4 years since I graduated from my Fashion Design degree, worked for a couple of fashion companies and managed to find my true passion: learning how things are made. My degree fuelled my inquisitiveness to learn more about the people behind the products and I became passionate about the various crafts we still have in England, especially the leather craft which the country has been renowned for, for hundreds of years; I guess with my then existing collection of bags to inspire me, it was a natural route for me to take.

Holdall & Co folio

My collection of bags has been important to the design process of the Holdall & Co Folios and helped to establish the design principles:

- Simple and timeless: to ensure that it doesn't look dated and out of place in 5-10 years time; even though fashion always comes back round, I didn't want there to be a wait to be 'on trend'.
- Practical: decide what it will be used for and make sure it serves its purpose.
- Clever: even though the design is simple, it still needs thought and ingenuity; like the umbrella/newspaper loop neatly concealed on the back.
- British: most of my favourite vintage bags and cases were made in England and I knew that mine also had to be made in England; I searched hard to find one of the last remaining case and luggage makers in the country.
- Quality: the bags have to stand the test of time; from the materials to the workmanship, I've given them the greatest chance by using the best I could find.

For previous posts on Grey Fox about Holdall & Co click here.