One jacket - five styles. Making full use of your wardrobe with Sarah Gilfillan and an M&S tweed jacket

As a stylist, Sarah Gilfillan works with clients to review their existing clothes and revives little-used items by suggesting new and different uses. We thought this would be a useful idea for readers and have applied it to a reasonably-priced Marks & Spencer grey herringbone jacket. We agreed that its colour and style make it the perfect for this project. The middle-aged or older man will find plenty of inspiration here for rejuvenating their wardrobes.

The herringbone tweed jacket has been a useful item for decades, as stylish men as diverse as Gianni Agnelli and Steve McQueen (above) have shown. It's ideal for casual wear, but we feel it also, in its grey/black form, has potential to be useful for smart and even formal events. 

I'll hand over to Sarah to comment on the five looks she has styled after rummaging through my wardrobe. (To make use yourself of Sarah's styling services see Sartoria Lab).

Outfit 1 - Cream sweater and jeans

Outfit 1

Sarah Gilfillan writes: 

I've always loved these vintage fisherman's type sweaters and when I discovered this old Royal Navy submariner's jumper while raiding David's wardrobe, I wanted to use it as the basis to our first outfit. I like the juxtaposition of a casual sweater like this with some tailoring, but the grey herringbone texture of the jacket means they're still in keeping with each other. The dark slim cut of jeans, worn with a small turn-up, keeps the look modern and shows off this great pair of boots. The gold toned pocket square was chosen to pick up on their colour and adds a nice little kick to the neutrals. We finished it off with a chic and super soft toning grey scarf.

Jacket: Marks & Spencer (from 2013). Scarf: The Merchant Fox. Pocket Square: bought by Grey Fox on Lake Como, Italy. Jeans: The Jean Machine. Boots: Loake Dovedale.

Outfit 2 - White shirt and navy trousers 

Outfit 2

Super classy, non?! A classic look when worn with navy trousers, we've dressed the jacket up here with a double cuff white shirt. It gives a sharp contrast which adds formality, and the double cuff allows you to sport a dashing pair of cufflinks, further formalising the look.

We've chosen a grey wool tie which tones in well with the herringbone of the jacket and adds a quiet elegance to the look. Using a stylised 3-point fold on the white pocket square continues the formal feel and polished black brogues finish off the look perfectly.

Shirt and tie: Marks & Spencer. Trousers from a suit by TM Lewin. Pocket square: Mr Porter. Shoes: Charles Tyrwhitt.  

Outfit 3 - Pink shirt and burgundy chinos

To contrast well with the neutral grey of the jacket and give it a smart/casual look, we chose tonal shades of a light pink shirt and burgundy chinos. The button down detail of the shirt keeps it on the casual side of smart/casual, and this is continued with the choice of a burgundy & blue knit tie. (This is a vintage one that David cleverly hung on to from first time round - right back in fashion now!) Along with the toning (never exactly matching) pocket square, it brings the colour of the trousers into the top of the outfit. Navy suede shoes echo the casualness of the rest of the outfit.

Shirt: Tripl Stitched. Tie: vintage. Pocket Square: vintage Liberty's. Chinos: Paul Smith 2013. Shoes: Bodileys.

Outfit 4 - Blue polo neck sweater and jeans

This outfit was David's favourite. The simplicity of his fine knit roll neck in deep periwinkle and dark jeans makes a great backdrop for the texture of the grey herringbone. We added the orange pocket square and matching socks to create some focus to the outfit and which keep it looking modern and fresh. I really like the retro-style tortoiseshell glasses which give a nod to current trends, and you can never really go wrong with classic brown suede brogues. It's an outfit you could pretty much wear anywhere.

Polo-neck sweater: Uniqlo. Glasses: Scarlett of Soho. Pocket square: Duchamp. Socks: London Sock Co. Shoes: Cheaney x Mr Porter. Jeans, as above.

Outfit 5 - Fair Isle knit and cords

Herringbone and cords to together like love and marriage, don't you think?! We wanted to include an outfit that had a country-ish feel, so went for earthy toned cords, and a Fair Isle knit which we then teamed with a denim shirt to keep it from looking "fusty". The wool tie with a hare print fits in with our country style, and the paisley pocket square echoes the colour. Brogues originally had holes punched in them so the water could drain from the shoe when walking through boggy countryside, so of course they are a fitting accompaniment to this outfit.

Shirt: Hentsch Man. Fair Isle sweater: Drake's. Pocket square: vintage. Tie: Cordings. Cords: Massimo Dutti 2013. Shoes: Loake Otterburn (link as above).

Sarah's pick of grey herringbone tweed jackets. Please mention us to suppliers:

Beams + at Trunk Clothiers

Man 1924 at Trunk Clothiers

Paul Smith at Matches

Gant

Oliver Spencer at Liberty
Marks & Spencer

For more on the vintage submariner's jersey, see my post here.

This is not a sponsored post. If you would like to see your products included in future styling posts of this sort, please contact us.

Jacket Required July 2014 - a few favourites

Jacket Required, a menswear trade show, took place at the end of July. I find events like this useful in providing inspiration for my search for style. Many brands attending sell streetwear or younger baseball-cap-type clothes; maybe not what most older men would go for, but there are many interesting and more classic styles to see. Here are a few of my favourites:

Sanders Shoes - an interesting brand making shoes in Northamptonshire for sale under their own and other labels. Many are classic designs, many have a colourful twist. Click here to visit Sanders -

Private White VC - Manchester-made, I wrote here about my factory visit earlier this year. Casual and outerwear with a difference, all with a very classic design basis. Click here for Private White VC -

Greatcoat - a fairly new label making outerwear and raincoats in London, England. Click here for their website -

Realm & Empire - casual wear brand, making some products (knitwear) in the UK. They base their styles on inspiration found in historic British artefacts and documents. See their website here.

Baracuta - although now Italian-owned, their traditional Harrington jackets are still made in the UK. See their website here -

Triumph & Disaster - I liked the humour and design of this New Zealand skincare, shaving and grooming brand. See their website here.

Middle-aged spread - how to manage it with style: Sarah Gilfillan advises

I've asked Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab to advise on the tricky issue of the older man's thickening middle. Here she has put together some tips (that DON'T include going to the gym) to help you dress to disguise this area.

Vertical & horizontal lines

Most people are aware that vertical lines will cause your eye to travel up and down rather than from left to right therefore making you look taller and slimmer. Great for shirts, but not so much for sweaters and t-shirts. So what's the alternative? Horizontal stripes across the chest area will bring the attention away from the stomach, and have the added benefit of visually broadening your chest. If you can find one with a light colour at the top and a darker one across the tummy this will have the effect of making you look like you've been on a diet and at the gym. What's not to like?!

You can create the illusion of a vertical stripe with a shirt featuring a contrast placket down the front, or a darker layer on top of a light one. This will give the effect of a narrow stripe down the centre of your body, effectively cutting you in half and directing the eye to the middle of your body.

Bring attention to your shoulders and chest

Stick to single-breasted jackets and avoid the trend for double-breasted as you don't need an extra layer of fabric around your stomach area. Try peak lapels to take the eye up towards the shoulders, creating a great distraction from the stomach area. Other ways to achieve this are by wearing a sweater with a pattern across the shoulders or a shirt or t-shirt with a contrasting shoulder panel (above image), shoulder seam detailing or colour block with the darker colour at the bottom.

Casual shirts with chest pockets will bring the point of focus away from the stomach and higher up to the chest area. If you prefer to wear a crew neck, then look for something with graphics high up on your chest or a pocket tee.

Colours and patterns

Darker colours tend to make you look smaller and patterns can distort the focus of the eye, so you have something other than a large, plain expanse of fabric to look at. A small check or gingham or a small uniform pattern is a great choice.



For weekend wear, don't just think black shirts - look for deep burgundy or aubergine, navy and pine green, which could also have a very small dot on it or be in a jacquard fabric. If you're wearing a darker top, contrasting trousers in a lighter colour will work well to bring the focus down to your legs and away from your middle section. Remember that matt fabrics for your top half are preferable as they absorb the light more than shiny ones.

Fit

Avoid the "trousers under your belly" look by wearing flat-front trousers not too low-cut. If they are cut a little higher, and some of your stomach is covered with the darker fabric, then it will effectively cut it in half. Trousers with a side-adjuster will keep the look streamlined and trim.

Your shirts should be fitted enough not to be tight across your tummy or straining at the back, but not so enormous that there are swathes of extra fabric adding to your silhouette. Make sure t-shirts are long enough, as extra fabric can be taken up by the stomach making them look shorter. Choose jackets that are slightly longer so that the eye doesn't stop at your stomach area and avoid bomber jackets which with an elasticated hem, which will add pounds around the waistline.

Accessories

If you're wearing a tie then make sure it's long enough - it should just touch the top of your belt. A tie that is too short and finishes mid tummy acts like an arrow and will stop the eye at your widest point giving an unflattering look. If you're a larger than average man, then ignore the "look du jour" of skinny ties and ensure yours is a regular or slightly wider width.

Keep your belt subtle and toning with your trousers. Avoid very shiny or statement buckles which will draw attention to this area. You can use more interesting accessories elsewhere - ie: a pocket square, or great watch and cufflinks. 

Gentlemen, I hope this has been helpful, but if you have any more queries or would like help shopping for a flattering and age appropriate wardrobe then contact me here.

Some useful menswear links:

John Smedley 

Boss Orange

Burberry 

Saturdays Surf NYC at Mr Porter 

Hugo Boss

Richard James at Mr Porter

Vivienne Westwood at Van Mildert

Oliver Spencer 

Barbour

J Crew

Nigel Hall 

Maison Martin Margiela at Mr Start

Marwood 

Alice Made This

Supporting Grey Fox Blog

Running this blog costs me well into three figures annually, quite apart from the huge investment of time. I make no money from the blog and, at present, sell no advertising. To maintain independence, I don't ask for anything from the menswear brands I support. After much thought, and at the kind suggestion of a reader, I'm giving readers the opportunity, should they wish to do so, to contribute something towards these costs. 

The last thing I want anyone to feel is an obligation here, but if you wish to do so there are two possibilities -

1. Buy one of the new Age of Reason/Grey Fox collaboration pocket squares. These are made in very limited numbers and Ali of Age of Reason is kindly contributing part of the takings to Grey Fox. See more about the collaboration below in yesterday's post. The squares can be purchased here - Grey Fox in Rust and Grey Fox in Blue.

2. The second option is to donate via Paypal. This can be done here on the Contact page.

Whether you're able to contribute or not, thank you very much for your support of this blog.

The Age of Reason/Grey Fox silk square at the design stage

Recreating the Look - Gianni Agnelli

The purpose of this occasional Recreating the Look series is not to guarantee that you will look like those featured. Style is much more than a shirt, suit and tie. The longer I blog, the more I realise that style is a state of mind - a confidence, comfort and self-assurance - that communicates itself through your dress, carriage and attitude. With some that comes naturally; with others it takes years. So, read this post, but I can't guarantee you'll look as good as Gianni Agnelli, once head of the Fiat empire.

In all these shots he wears simple tweeds, shirts and ties. All are marked by a classic monochrome simplicity, the quality of the cut  - and the panache with which Agnelli wears them. This demonstrates to me that it's unnecessary to overindulge in pattern, colour or fashion to be stylish. Below I have selected some clothes which are my interpretation of Agnelli's style. What do you think?

At the bottom of this post I've added an image showing how I have recreated the look using clothes from Marks & Spencer. 

See another from my Recreating the Look series here.

Paul Smith

Marwood pocket square

Hackett

Thom Browne

Margaret Howell

John Lobb

Finally, below Grey Fox tries the look - all clothes from Marks & Spencer - Moon tweed Sartorial jacket, Heritage grey wool tie and Sartorial 2-fold cotton shirt - total cost around £170.

Images of clothes above from Mr Porter - bottom image Grey Fox, others unknown.

Grey Fox at London Collections:Men

For the next few days I'm going to be at London Collections: Men, tirelessly looking for styles suitable for the man of mature years, taste and style - so I will be quiet on the blog for a few days.

Major and minor fashion houses will be showing their menswear collections for spring/summer 2014 and it will be interesting to see those bastions of the high street, Marks and Spencer and John Lewis, taking part as well - surely a sign that men are taking more interest in what they wear.

Richard James SS13

This is the third LC:M and it marks London's rise in importance as an international centre of menswear design and retailing. It will be fascinating for me to wander round in a world so foreign to me.

I will report back to you here, on Twitter, Instagram, Facebook and, ultimately, on The Guardian Fashion Blogs Network. I've also be commissioned to write a piece for Menswear Insight on styles suitable for the older man - will that be a challenge in such a youth-centric world? I'll let you know. I'm also hoping to see some attempt to sell to the older market by the use of older models; will I be pleasantly surprised?

Meanwhile, if you have any questions, suggestions or comments for your roving reporter, please contact me through the blog here, or on Twitter.

A reader asks - how do I dress now that I'm past forty years of age? (Part 1)

Image The Sartorialist

A reader commented recently as follows, raising some interesting points about style and fashions for the middle aged and older man:

How should I dress once I've reached 40?

I'm well past 40 and it's still a question I ask myself at the age I am. Trouble is, I still think I'm 21 but I know I can't and shouldn't dress like a much younger man. To be truthful I'm envious of the clothes that are available to the young man of today.

I really don't like the terms classical and traditional it makes me think of frumpy* old men and I don't want to be frumpy. T'other week I was socialising with a group of friends dressed in a tweed jacket, jeans, brogues a scarf and with a pocket hanky. The females admired the look - gosh, I was wearing a scarf just for the look, Mediterranean style - but the men thought I looked academic. Oh no! I looked frumpy. I had been considering a tweed suit but maybe not now.

* My wife's terminology

I'm finding the blog useful keep it up. 

Regards

David

My first thought was, 'who's this guy, who dresses well well enough to excite female comment, yet isn't satisfied with his sartorial choices?'

Older men see style in binary terms

But then I saw the deeper seriousness of your comment. You have defined the schizophrenic approach men take to style as they get past 40 years of age. We want to stay and look young, but suspect that this is unacceptable. After all, an older man is expected to behave as such and fears ridicule if he doesn't.

Image The Sartorialist

In the face of these concerns most men give up and adopt a sartorial grunge, wearing ill-fitting clothes without a vestige of style. That's the slippery slope that I found myself on 18 months ago when I started this blog to explore style and fashion on middle age. I don't pretend to have found a stylistic Shangri La, far from it, but have a few thoughts which I offer for you to reject or accept as you like.

Older men think about style in binary terms. We see a choice between either young men's fashions, Top Shop etc, or the sort of shapeless tweedy neutrality available from too many Sunday supplements, high street chains and catalogues. We see nothing in between.

Style with a twist 

In reality, the older man, choosing carefully, can buy into the younger/fashionable/stylish (whatever term you want to use) end of the market without looking like mutton dressed as lamb.

Classic with a twist - Image Stockholm Streetstyle.com

The term I've used for this style is classic with a twist. It gives the older man the comfort of wearing a classic outfit that doesn't delve into the wilder reaches of the menswear fashion catwalk, while showing, at the same time, a sense of personal style.

Finding this look takes work as we have to trawl through the racks of poor quality or too young-looking clothes to find what we want. I would like high street retailers to market 'classic with a twist' more widely. After all, middle-aged men are a relatively large and affluent market, so retailers are unlikely to lose out here.

I've talked enough, so I'm going to split this post and, in the sequel, say more about what I mean by 'classic style with a twist', giving examples and sources where you can go to explore the style further for yourself. Meanwhile, some on the images here will give you an idea of what I mean.

However, the last thing I want to do is give you rules for dressing. The advantage we have in middle age and beyond is that we have the confidence to create our own styles that owe nothing to an unhelpful and youth-obsessed high street - let's do it!

Meanwhile, see my article in Menswear Insight [link broken, magazine closed down] in which I explored this question in more detail. See part 2 of this post here and part 3 here.

Photograph Niall McDiarmid

Grey Fox Models 6: grey hair fashion advertising - well done T.K. Maxx

Well done to TK Maxx for recognising that the older, wiser and greyer among us like to wear stylish clothes.

Click here for other advertisers bucking the youth-obsessed trends of the fashion world.

And see also the Grey Fox Pinterest board for more grey haired menswear advertising.

Fashion and the older man - Grey Fox gets on his high horse (a grey, of course)

The new journal, Menswear Insight, kindly asked me to write a piece on timeless style for their April 2013 issue. The finished product turned into a gentle handbagging of much of the fashion industry for failing to cater to the needs of the older man.

This view was driven home for me when I spent an hour or two yesterday trying to buy a pair of slim-cut, summer-weight, tailored trousers. I looked everywhere in a major shopping centre (Kingston upon Thames). All I could find was jeans, chinos and the odd pair of trousers which were cut so slim in the calf that I could hardly get them on, let alone off (and I'm slim). I'm hoping that a trip into central London will turn up what I want in Hackett or somewhere similar.

This adventure reinforced my view that there is, on our high streets, a dearth of classical, reasonably-priced yet well-made and stylish clothing suitable for the mature man of style. I talk about that in this article.

Alan Paine SS13 advertising campaign

To read it, see here on the Menswear Insight website, or here in the digital format of the magazine (see page 13). Have a look and see what you think. I'm sure you'll respect my view even if you disagree. I'd be happy to hear from you by e-mail (contact above) or by comment below.

By the way, Menswear Insight is much more than just an industry journal, it's an excellent read for anyone interested in style. I would be ideal for those for whom GQ, Esquire etc, don't hit the spot in terms of mature reporting of menswear fashion and style.

And if red trousers aren't your cup of tea...

...you can always wear a red shirt (see yesterday's post).

Image The Sartorialist (?) - sorry not sure.

Where next for a middle-aged male fashion blogger?

The last month or so has seen significant changes at Grey Fox Blog. This blog, begun as a fun-thing-to-do 14 months ago by a middle-aged man confused by style and fashion, has started to become a serious and time-consuming proposition. I really enjoy what I'm doing here and the new and strange world that it is opening up for me (remember, I have no fashion background) and the new friends I am making, make me keen to continue to develop the blog into an increasingly exciting future. If I can make the fashion world take the older male market seriously, I will have achieved part of my aim.

Grey Fox by Ian McDiarmid

Whereas, a few weeks ago, I was seeking out menswear suppliers which interested me, I'm now being approached by companies and PR firms and I realise that I'm going to have to take great care if I am to:

1. Keep to the original theme of this blog; searching for style and fashions suitable for middle-aged and older men (i.e. over 40 years if age).
2. Keep the content fresh, interesting and independent of those who would use it as a billboard for their products.
3. Not get overburdened with outstanding work.
4. Prevent the financial and time costs of maintaining the blog getting in the way of 1,2 and 3.

In the light of these issues, I wanted to share my thoughts with you, the readers, so that you understand any future changes. My vision of the future of this blog is as follows.

• I will, in due course, start to accept advertisements on the blog and, with this in mind, will develop relationships with potential advertisers. I do need to cover the costs of blogging.
• This decision will not undermine the independence of the editorial content - that will be made clear to advertisers.
• I will be taking even more care to ensure that the core theme of the blog is not diluted. 
• I will be unable to accept (or cover) every development or product that may be of interest to the older man of style. There is simply not enough time. I write about the products and brands that I like, or which inspire.

If you have any thoughts or ideas, please comment below or feel free to e-mail me (link above).

Middle-aged man wears vintage Harris tweed suit

Vintage oatmeal herringbone Harris tweed two-piece suit.

Image by Carole Evans photography - cropped by Grey Fox!

An outstanding example of middle age style by David Eustace photographer

I was very grateful to David Eustace for giving me permission to reproduce his image of Scottish playwright, theatre designer and artist John Byrne in a Harris Tweed suit designed by Deryck Walker. 

David's e-mailed comment to me was that, 'the most stylish folk these days are often middle aged or older men (or women)....Often the difference between style and fashions.' What more can one say and what better inspiration for the older man in search of style?

Image © David Eustace

David mentioned that this portrait now sits in the National Portrait Gallery in Edinburgh. A visit to David Eustace's website is much recommended. I can find little information about Deryck Walker; there seems to be no obvious website.

It's not what you wear, it's how you wear it...

This image, from the New York Times's coverage of Pitti Uomo this year here, drove home to me how, for middle-aged men of fashion, it's often not what you wear, but how you wear it, that matters.

Image New York Times

Here a conventionally-cut tweed suit has been given the wearer's own personal style. He has done this in many ways - by, for example, wearing the suit on the small side, turning up the trousers, buttoning up the lowest button of the waistcoat, assuming a mournful expression, wearing a hat, and so on; there are many aspects to his creation of this look.

Maybe there are some ideas here for you to adopt in creating your own personalised style.

What will you be wearing in 2013? Fashion trends and inspiration for the older man.

What will the older man of style be wearing in 2013? In my search for style as a middle-aged man, I keep an eye out for trends, inspiration and influences. How do I, very much a fashion outsider, see tastes and fashions moving? What fashion themes might be suitable for the 40-year-old plus man?

The new year brings a rash of men's fashion shows, firstly London Collections: Men, with Pitti Uomo, Milan and Paris coming hot on its heels. I don't report on the detail of these shows, unless something has caught my eye. There are scores of blogs and websites you can visit for detailed reports (visit GQ magazine for example). There is much to inspire us.

Photo Tommy Ton, taken at Pitti Uomo, 2013

 What follows is a very personal selection, use it as you will.

•  Dressing sustainably is becoming more important. It's not always possible, but buy locally-made or designed products. Readers of this blog will recall the exciting voyage of discovery I embarked on in September when I reported on just a small selection of British designers and manufacturers of interest to the stylish man. If you don't live in the UK, see what you can find in your own country.

Made and designed in UK, tweed woven in London S.E.H Kelly

Made on Savile Row

• Dress classically, but add a twist to lift the look above the merely conventional.

Hackett

Richard James

• Try drab background colours with bright accents in trousers, knitwear and socks - oranges, corals, pinks, yellows.

Hackett

Rake

Richard James 

• Pocket squares.

• Slim cuts. Try garments that follow the line of the waist and body.

The Sartorilist

• Tweeds. There's a move towards larger checks. Suits are more frequently used in informal situations, so designers are exploring bolder looks; I like it.

Richard James

• Polo neck (roll neck) jumpers, worn under jackets, blazers, coats.

Hackett

Image Tommy Ton, Pitti Uomo 2013

• Brogues.

Rake

• Knitted ties.

Drake's

• Blue evening suits.

Richard James 

Hardy Amies

• Double-breasted.

Oliver Spencer

• Pinstripes. Once the preserve of lawyers and car salesmen, pinstripes are making a welcome comeback. Nothing is more flattering.

Savile Row

• Traditional knitwear.

Margaret Howell

Tom Ford

Image Tommy Ton, Pitti Uomo, 2013

• Planks on heads. It's amusing to see people's reactions to the more outrageous shows. 'I'd never wear a plank on my head/ male boob tube/ orange trousers/ bowler hat', were comments made by many shocked men this January. However, these eye-catching displays are simply the efforts of designers wanting to stand out from the herd - and shocking a gullible press works every time.

Craig Green - image The Guardian