Style for the older man: the unstructured jacket & the rise of smart comfortable wear

The rise of British manufacture has revived skills which are bringing shapes and styles to menswear which have roots in a long heritage. Tailoring has long British traditions in producing formal suits, jackets, blazers. These are all structured garments with lining, internal canvas pieces and a construction that makes them formal and shaped in appearance.

Older man style: an unstructured jacket allows me to wear a suit, but feel comfortable, as if in jumper and jeans

But another style of jacket has been revived in the last few years. It's unstructured, unlined or semi-lined, and comfortable, with soft shoulders, patch pockets and even (as mine above) shirt-style cuffs. It's generally cheaper than a tailored jacket because it has its roots in the working coats that used to be turned out for engine drivers, bus conductors, mechanics, road repair and factory workers.

Workers needed to wear a garment that was cheap to produce and allowed freedom of movement while looking reasonably smart (this was a time when men, however humble, still took pride in their appearance). These characteristics are exactly what younger, middle-aged or older men are now looking for in their search for smart but comfortable casual wear.

The rise in popularity of this style coincides with the deformalisation (if that's a word) of menswear. Men now wear suits for both semi-formal and casual wear, encouraged by the comfort that an unstructured jacket brings. I find I now throw on my Oliver Spencer linen/cotton mix suit (pictured above), with its unlined jacket, as readily as I might a cotton jumper and pair of chinos - and I feel just as relaxed. 

Such styles are available from many menswear labels that design and/or manufacture in the UK including -

Old Town
Tender
Private White V.C.
S.E.H. Kelly 
Albam 
Cro'jack
Universal Works
Oliver Spencer and others.

Try them and you'll find a coat jacket that's immediately comfortable. The tailoring won't be as sharp or the fit as snappy as a structured and lined tailored jacket - but that's the strength of a garment that is fuelling the rise in comfortable, smart casual menswear.

Jackets and blazers for spring and summer

For spring and summer wear, the unstructured jacket, with linen, cotton, silk and even lightweight tweed or flannel components, is ideal. The absence of lining makes it lighter and cooler. Its informal shape means you can take it off and throw it over one arm without worrying about creases; they're all part and parcel of wearing lightweight jackets and, in my view, improve the looks.

Image origins not known - please get in touch if this is yours

Most jackets follow the conventional structured approach, with a lining and internal pockets - the fit is generally looser, thicker and more formed than the unstructured jacket, which has no (or only half) lining, fewer pockets (where do you put the lining? There will instead be external patch pockets).

Being unlined, the fit is usually closer, slimmer and more casual. It will follow the curve of the shoulders more closely and move with the wearer more easily. One of my favourites is an unlined tweed jacket bought at a Ralph Lauren sale. So comfortable is it that I wear it around the house like a familiar old cardigan. 

Image from Esquire

Nothing looks better for semi-formal or casual wear on men of any age than a blue unstructured blazer, cream or khaki chinos or jeans, a pale blue denim shirt, suede brogues or desert boots and a red polka dot pocket square (and some red socks). Add formality with a knitted silk tie in a plain or lightly spotted primary colour. 

Shortly I'll answer a reader's question about where to find unstructured jackets at all price levels.

Hackett half-lined linen Delave blazer from here