Gentlemen, we should be proud of our grey hair - why hide it?

Should any man using products to cover grey, silver or white hair be excluded from Grey Fox membership? I wouldn't use them, as I have an  instinctive dislike of fakery, but I appreciate that many will disagree with me. Certain hair colouring products are being sold hard here in the UK at the moment.

We should be proud of our maturity in middle age and beyond. To be otherwise suggests that we are easily  swayed by others' prejudices, and surely we're old enough to be our own men. Are products like these the enemy of Grey Foxes everywhere? What do you think?

Crossing Paths - Niall McDiarmid, showing personality through street photography

One of the major influences in my search for style has been street photography - the best of which shows how clothes can reflect the wearer's personality. I first came across Niall McDiarmid when he followed me on Twitter and I found his website, Crossing Paths. This is a photographic record of Niall's journeys across the UK and the people he meets. Niall tells me that,

"The portrait project is ongoing and is basically my view on who I meet as I travel around the UK. From the eccentric, to the fashionably dressed, from the colourful to those who simply fit with their surroundings...whoever crosses my path".

Much street photography records what people are wearing, but gives little clue as to the subject's personality. Niall's photos are different, each one recording clearly the whole person in front of the camera. This is enhanced by a very special sense of colour and humour which make these pictures exceptional.

Many thanks, Niall, for allowing me to reproduce these portraits and I look forward to seeing the project develop. Visit Crossing Paths for more.

Socks appeal for Spring - breaking all the rules

Sartorial experts would have us wearing socks that match our trousers (or pants if you're American; but that gets confusing for those on this side of the pond who don't see the need to match socks and underwear). The reason apparently is that it makes out legs look longer. I don't follow the logic of this advice as you will usually only see a man's socks when he is sitting down; a time when it's hard to judge leg length.

Anyway, rules are made to be broken. I was clearing all the odd socks out of my drawer when I thought I'd try a few colour combinations with my pink, blue and khaki chinos. The blue ones are a very old pair that have survived many years of patching and probably deserve a post of their own one day. Without doing this intentionally most of these combinations are based on complementary colours (at opposite ends of a colour wheel - see below), although others are more harmonious combinations (like blue and purple). If you have an idle moment you can experiment by playing around with your socks, trousers and a colour wheel!

 

Grey Fox is three months old - over 6,000 visits - thanks all

I started this blog three months ago to describe a man's search for style in middle age. Inevitably it has gone well some days, slowly on others - I am always looking for a fresh approach and new ideas. I would like to thank everyone who has visited, particularly those who have left interesting and encouraging comments. The blog has had over 6,000 individual visits, with more than 12,000 page views, nothing compared to the great men's fashion blogs, but it's early days and I have much to learn.

I should again thank the Sartorialist, whose blog I stumbled across one day and realised that there can be style in middle age - I celebrate with some of the Sart's photos below.

I'm still looking for another blog with a similar theme - older women receive excellent coverage from many blogs; middle age men do not - and I'm struggling to understand why that is. Are older men not interested or are they content with the generally youth-oriented fashions covered in the men's style blogs?

I'm still uncertain what it is I'm looking for - classic clothes provide one answer, but I wonder if there's a less safe and more exciting way forward for the older man wanting to dress well without looking like mutton dressed as lamb. The search continues. Feel free to get in touch with me, here or on Twitter.

Photo the Sartorialist

Photo the Sartorialist

Photo the Sartorialist

You're never too old for Ivy League style

The Ivy League look dates from the fifties, but has been persistent in its influence since. I bought Graham Marsh and JP Gaul's The Ivy Look recently to see if it would assist my search for middle-age style. It struck me that the original proponents must now be in their seventies and eighties. However, because it has become such a classic style it can be worn by any age - and no doubt some of the originals still don their Bass Weejuns and button-down collar shirts each morning. 

The look was adopted on both sides of the Atlantic, but those generally associated with the style are American, for example, the Kennedy family and Steve McQueen.

A book I must buy!

Quite coincidentally, I was wearing a Gant button-down and a Brooks Brothers sweater this morning. With a Harris tweed jacket there is a hint of Ivy League maybe? At least I can claim it as an influence.

A modern take on a very traditional Harris tweed jacket

In my search for middle age style I'm always on the lookout for modern takes on traditional clothes. The traditional tweed jacket is generally not well-tailored; it's usually a bit sack-like in cut, a little long in the body for today's taste and (for me) too wide across the shoulders. This limited edition Harris tweed jacket from John Lewis is cut short, slim and slightly waisted, but comes with traditional features like leather arm patches, dogtooth check fabric and flapped pockets. As such, it's ideal for all ages, as it combines traditional and modern styles so well.

It's good to see British design and manufacturing being supported by a large retailer. The jacket is [was] available on-line [link broken, sorry] for a reasonable £299.

All photos John Lewis

Mixing patterns - check on check - take care

Mixing patterns, such as wearing different checks alongside each other, has to be done with care. I've admired the way some men manage to do this without looking as though they've thrown on whatever lay to hand when they got up in the morning. What are the secrets that enable different patterns to be worn together successfully?

One of the masters of the art is Nick Wooster who is often photographed by the Sartorialist and other fashion blogger-photographers. See how he successfully mixes patterns here in a way that is actually so conventional that it's difficult to analyse why it has such visual impact. Maybe it's the total confidence he brings to his clothes and of course their cut and style.

Normally a man would be very careful about wearing such a mix of tweedy patterns, herringbone, Prince of Wales and other checks. But look at the second picture - what do you notice about the colours and textures that Wooster has chosen? Subtly different shades of grey of similar textures bring together what could otherwise be a jumble of clashing patterns .

I haven't yet been bold enough to wear patterns in this way, but it's on the to do list as the search for style continues. One trick I'm learning is to see how others do it and then decide what works for me. Have a look at the pictures below, do they work for you? What makes them successful or not?

A Shed of One's Own - another look at men's mid-life style

I picked up a copy of A Shed of One's Own - Midlife without the Crisis in Watertones (note they no longer use an apostrophe - so much for literacy). It's a light-hearted look at the ups and downs of men's middle age and is an enjoyable read.

 Here, for example, is what he says about cycling, a topic close to my heart -

When you next see your cyclist friends, they have lost all their excess weight and become sinewy and weather-beaten.....Dedicated cyclists don't do small talk any more....They..go to bike shops and salivate over an unusually sleek carbon frame. Out in the garage they keep a small stash of dog-eared bike magazines. They wear lycra without embarrassment. They are lost to the world.

In relation to men's mid-life style, Berkmann describes the relaxation of the middle aged dress code which once saw men dressing quite formally, even at weekends. He sees men continuing to wear younger styles because, "we see ourselves as we once were, and sometimes rather better than we once were." This has led to men wearing clothes quite inappropriate to their mid-life status. He drives home his point - "Skinny jeans: absolutely not. And especially not with gleaming new boxfresh trainers."

Hear hear!

Middle aged men and the pleasure of owning beautiful objects

Men of whatever age love well-made objects. Most of us with an interest in style will want to own something of beauty or an object into which care and craftsmanship has been invested - a watch with an in-house movement, a classic camera built to last, a custom-made bicycle, an original work of art, a bespoke suit/ shirt/ pair of shoes, a precious antique. With many of us this interest will become a drive to collect - I discussed this in passing in my last post about military watches.

Once you've handled a pre-digital Leica, for example, you're hooked by the solid metal body, the snick of the shutter which just exudes mechanical engineering quality and the pin sharp images - as a result you want to expand your collection of lenses. It's the same with other things - cars that have engines you can tinker with and don't have to be repaired by mechanics with degrees in computer science, steel-framed racing cycles with smooth shifting Italian gear systems, bespoke jackets with a flattering fit and details like hand-stitching and opening cuff buttons.

Photo Grey Fox

A common theme is that these items will last, the camera won't stop working after the first shower of rain, the buttons won't fall off the jacket after a few weeks' wear and the custom-made bike will feel as if it's doing the pedalling for you. These possession may cost more, but in the long run you save money and the Earth's dwindling resources - it's all about sustainability as well.

Photo courtesy of Ming

The welding on a custom-built titanium Seven Axiom
Photo Grey Fox

Looking to buy a double-breasted jacket on-line - how easy is it?

I want to look at double-breasted jackets again (see my post of a few days ago salivating over Cabourn's tweed DB jacket). I also like the look of these double-breasted jackets shown in The Sartorialist's photos below (worn by the same gentleman, I think).

The Sartorialist

Firstly, look how well they are worn in these photos. They fit well and are made from quality materials. What makes it for me, however, is the lived-in look he brings to the jackets; has he slept in them? He's totally comfortable and shows no self-consciousness at all - that's how to wear clothes successfully (cigarette aside!). I also like the use of layers, scarves and the collared waistcoat or cardigan works well and provides extra insulation on a cold day.

The Sartorialist

What a versatile garment the double breasted blazer can be, worn indoors or out, appropriately layered with waistcoat, sweater or cardigan according to the temperature. They look good with denims, tailored trousers or chinos which, if the jacket is dark grey, black or navy blue, can be almost any colour. 

I thought I'd see if I could find something similar using on-line retailers. I didn't want to spend too much time on the task and probably looked at seven or eight stores - to my disappointment I didn't find much. I came across many pea coats in my search - they are common at the moment - but are for outdoors, so don't have the versatility of a blazer-type jacket which is lighter and has a more tailored fit.

This exercise highlights for me some shortcomings of shopping on-line -
1. the difficulties of firstly finding sellers who may have what you want,
2. finding what you want on the sometimes extensive sites,
3. knowing if the style and fit will suit you. For example, many jackets are now made of satin-finish cotton which I think looks horribly cheap, but it's hard to tell this from the nature of the fabric finish from some sites' pictures.

These problems are usually mitigated by stress-free return policies and pre-paid postage return packets, so you have to take a slight gamble whenever you buy on-line and be prepared for the additional time and frustration if items don't suit you.

Of the sites I looked at, by far the most user-friendly, and the one I wanted to stay on and browse (because of excellent general interest comment and videos) was Mr Porter. This site is welcoming whatever the age of the shopper - as are Hackett, Paul Smith, Ralph Lauren and J.Crew. Sites like Oi Polloi and Topman are geared more to a younger market if you're after something reasonably classic (I really like Topman's Harris Tweed collection, but know from bitter experience that the clothes are generally skinny cut and more suitable for the younger man).

These jackets looked promising and the next step would be to order and try them on! But is it as satisfying an experience as pounding the pavements on a real, as opposed to a virtual, shopping trip?

J.Crew

Paul Smith from Mr Porter

My favourite shoes - Loake Chester brogues

Nearly ten years ago I badly damaged my right foot in a cycling accident (yes, another one). For a long while I thought I would no longer be able to wear my favourite shoes - brogues. I tried a few pairs of mid-priced brogues, but none were comfortable. Eventually I tried a pair of Loake Chester brogues. What attracted me to them was that they are made here in the UK, unlike many other leading brand (and pricey) brogues which are made elsewhere (India for example). The Loakes have turned out to be supremely comfortable, due partly to the supple leather of the tan calf uppers. They are beginning to acquire that patina of age that the best shoes show after a year or more's wear.

See Loake for more information.

Photo Grey Fox

Photo Grey Fox

100 Years of Menswear - inspiration for a trainee man of style

Being on a search for style in middle age it occurred to me that I ought to take a passing interest in men's fashion so I looked to see what books are available to educate me. The result was Cally Blackman's One Hundred Years of Menswear published by Laurence King in 2009. 

Blackman is a fashion historian and her book contains a fascinating selection of photographs, illustrations and commentary tracing the history of menswear since Edwardian times - highly recommended whether you're interested from a historical perspective, or are simply after inspiration.

Note to Sir Paul Smith - if you no longer want the dusky pink needle-cord jeans you're wearing in the last picture, can I buy them from you please (I'm 32 x 32)?

Nigel Cabourn DB tweed jacket - rare classic quality?

I've been looking for a double-breasted blazer or tweed jacket. Here's a Nigel Cabourn 1940s-inspired Harris tweed jacket I'd come across before and admired. Unfortunately it was made in limited numbers and is now out of stock. It would be a bit of an extravagance to own, as I already have a Cabourn Tenzing jacket (reviewed here), but if I could find one in size 48 (38") I'd snap it up - I could just see it worn with my battered jeans, cream roll neck and tan brogues.

The design is so classic, robust and wearable I'm surprised nobody else makes anything quite like this. There are plenty of clone-like pea coats and single-breasted tweed jackets, but the willingness to really explore such classic designs seems to be the preserve of only a few designers like Cabourn. Is that the middle age man in me talking? It may be, because the more I search for a style the more I appreciate classic quality like this.

The search continues - I'd probably sacrifice my Tenzing jacket for it!

Men dressing well - just relax

One thing I'm learning in my search for style in middle age is that if you feel self-conscious in your clothes you won't look relaxed and, as a result, will not look well-dressed. See what I mean here? The artificially posed "I know you're looking at my suit and hair" look.

Relax man!

Below we have examples of  the natural well-dressed look - Steve McQueen,  relaxed, at home in his clothes and self confident. I make no apology for also showing pictures of Prince Charles; look how at home he is in his clothes, even in the ultimate formality and discomfort of military uniform; that's true style (although maybe a minus point for the unbuttoned double-breasted jacket?)

Dress for your personality. Look for classic clothes you feel comfortable in, don't feel you have to dress as a peacock if you don't want to.