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Grey Fox

A mature search for style. Fashion and menswear for all men.

Showing posts from category: Loake Chester

Loake: a visit to their Kettering factory

Tuesday, 17 February 2015

I recently visited Kettering to see the Loake footwear factory. As a blogger, I've had the privilege of visiting several factories around England and Scotland. All were similar in many ways: the smell of oil, the sounds, the ordered but well-worn furnishings and machinery, the quiet focus of the workers, their enthusiasm and care and the breathtaking expertise shown in those quick, deft movements used by those totally familiar with their work. 


All were proud of their work, from managers, owner, designers to those working on the factory floor. All were gratifyingly busy and it's good to see the continuing growth of British fashion manufacturing.


I own three pairs of Loake, all made on last 024/F, which just suits my foot shape. It was interesting to be shown the last on which these would have been made (pictured above).



Loake has been a family business since 1880 and I spent time with Andrew Loake, whose great-grandfather opened the factory. Loake is almost the only shoe factory left in Kettering. Andrew's father remembered when there were at least thirty footwear factories and associated tanneries and industries in the town. One other has recently opened up; a sign, hopefully, of the world-wide growth of British-made menswear.


Shown round by Factory Manager Brendon Drage-Dawes, I watched as shoes were made from the first cutting of the leather, to the construction of the Goodyear-welted soles and uppers around the last and on to the finishing and polishing before packing and despatch. 

The size of the factory surprised me, but each shoe goes through some 230 stages during the manufacturing process. Much of the work is done entirely by hand to remarkable tolerances by highly-skilled and experienced men and women. 


Seeing the processes drives home the sheer quality of the product. These are shoes made to last; a synthesis of high quality materials and 300 year-old tried and tested construction methods. There are no cheap gluing techniques, only processes designed to make a durable and comfortable shoe.



Increasing capacity is given over to refurbishing of shoes for the large number of customers who send them in for repair. What they get back is virtually a new shoe, re-heeled, re-soled and polished.


Loake has a factory in India, to which they send components which are made into shoes (designed in Kettering) to similar quality to those made in England. This enables them to offer a lower-priced shoe of good quality to those looking for this rather than a full-British-made shoe. The company believe that it is important to be totally transparent about the origin of their shoes, as Andrew Loake discusses in this article on the Loake website.


As with all my factory visits, I came away fired with enthusiasm for the quality of British manufacture. But 99% of the footwear we buy in Britain is made abroad. Hopefully I can instead persuade you to try a piece of British-made craftsmanship.

For more about Loake, or to buy their shoes or find a local stockist, see the Loake website.


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Labels: Kettering, Loake, Loake Chester, Made in England, Northampton, shoemaking, Shoes

Video: perfect shoe shine and restoration from Shoeshine UK The London Hilton Park Lane

Saturday, 2 November 2013

Shoeshine UK are a shoe shine and patina service located for thirteen years at The London Hilton on Park Lane. Their message is that proper shoe care is more than a quick brush if footwear is to be kept in good condition. A lover of his work, Steven D.R Skippen wants the public to really understand the skills needed to properly care for a good pair of shoes.

So it was that I gave a rather tired and battered pair of Loake Chester brogues to Steven to be restored. Being very light tan they had become stained, scuffed and, while very comfortable, not really for wear in polite company. Steven asked me if he could change the colour of the shoes - and you can watch what he did to them in this video.

With many thanks to Steven and Shoeshine UK for his hard work and skill. Twitter: @ShoeshineUK, and Facebook. Steven will be giving more advice on shoe care in a future article here.







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Labels: Loake Chester, Shoes, Shoeshine UK

Loake shoes - a film

Tuesday, 12 March 2013

My favourite comfortable brogues are a pair of Loake Chesters. Here's a video I found describing the Loake manufacturing process.

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Labels: Loake Chester, video

A reader asks - about brogues

Friday, 21 December 2012

A reader e-mailed me recently with this question about brogues (wing-tips) -
Hello Grey Fox,
New reader, newly turned 40, really enjoying the blog!  Some interesting thoughts on there.
Anyhow, I have always liked stout Loake brogues like the Chester so decided to treat myself, however, when I try them on they don't look quite right - it all seems a bit imbalanced in a full length mirror.  I'm tall/slim and favour a slim dark jean.  Is it possible that stout brogues work better with stout frames, or do you think a slightly wider regular cut jean would work better?
BF.
I replied as follows - 
Many thanks for the comments.
I find my Loake Chesters are slimmer and more elegant than many and should be fine with a taller, slimmer frame. It may be that you previously wore even slimmer shoes (Converse maybe?) so it’s a question of getting used to the new look.
I agree that some chunky, Commando-style soled brogues feel and look heavier and chunkier (particularly with slim jeans); but that is part of the look, so I think it’s worth sticking with it. Get somebody to take a photo; I’m sure it’ll look fine.
Best wishes,
 GF.
The reply?
Thanks for the reply.  You are wise indeed - I have lived in converse for the last 5 years!  Time to move on  methinks - James Murphy can get away with sneakers, jeans, black jacket and white shirt forever more but I am bored of it now :)

Thanks again
BF.



The Sartorialist
Grey Fox's Loake Chester brogues


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Labels: a reader asks, brogues, Loake Chester, Style for the older man

My favourite shoes - Loake Chester brogues

Thursday, 9 February 2012

Nearly ten years ago I badly damaged my right foot in a cycling accident (yes, another one). For a long while I thought I would no longer be able to wear my favourite shoes - brogues. I tried a few pairs of mid-priced brogues, but none were comfortable. Eventually I tried a pair of Loake Chester brogues. What attracted me to them was that they are made here in the UK, unlike many other leading brand (and pricey) brogues which are made elsewhere (India for example). The Loakes have turned out to be supremely comfortable, due partly to the supple leather of the tan calf uppers. They are beginning to acquire that patina of age that the best shoes show after a year or more's wear.

See Loake for more information.

Photo Grey Fox

Photo Grey Fox


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Labels: brogues, Loake Chester, men's style, middle age, older man, patina
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