A reader asks: Where can I find shoes for pounding city streets?

Does walking city streets in stylish shoes have to be an uncomfortable experience? Grey Fox investigates a reader's question:

Dear Grey Fox,

So here is my dilemma, I want to walk 15,000 steps a day on the hard streets and pavements of London. It keeps my weight down, and the “fresh” air is good for me. While explorer chic works for the thirty-somethings and perhaps Ran Fiennes, I still want to look the  English Gentleman. So what shoes should I choose?

Approach shoes, comfortable but 'look s**t'?

Stout north country farmer's footwear, bought in Penrith, work but they are tough going on the heels and spine. I've tried some chukka-style boots, but not that much support.  George Boots from Crockett & Jones are lovely, but lack shock absorption. Walk-in boots are comfortable but look s**t.

Regards

JC

Dear JC,

Many thanks. I agree about walk-in boots (by which I assume you mean approach shoes), which take me back to my pre-Grey Fox days of fleeces, cargo trousers and chunky walking shoes. These all have a place on the Cumbrian fells or the walk to Machu Picchu, but not striding along Fleet Street, Queen Street or Fifth Avenue.

My first suggestion is to keep your chunky brogues, but wear them with impact-absorbing insoles. I find these very good, although you tend to pay a lot for the best. You may need to remove the existing insoles, or buy shoes slightly larger, but the benefits are clear.

Harry's of London calf leather with comfortable injected rubber soles

Leather-soled shoes will be less shock-absorbent than rubber ones, such as Vibram, Dainite or the equivalent. If good Goodyear-welted rubber-soled Northampton-made oxfords, derbies or boots don't provide comfort, try a thicker sole like those found on Doc Martens.

An interesting brand that is relatively new to me is Harry's of London whose beautifully-designed footwear places great emphasis on sole comfort with their injected rubber soles and high quality leathers. I've been wearing their Sebastian calf leather derbies (pictured above) and find them ideal for pounding the city streets, while retaining urban style.

Grey Fox 

Style tips for the older man: Sarah Gilfillan advises the shorter-legged man

A Reader Asks.... Dear Grey Fox,

I always have trouble purchasing jeans and trousers [pants for our US readers]. I have short legs and everything I purchase seems to highlight this. Are there jeans or trouser brands that have a slightly higher waist or is there a fashion term that I need to look out for? Any information gratefully received. 

Best wishes 

Bruce 

Scott Schuman, The Sartorialist, shorter than average and here showing how to wear jeans. Image Lee Oliveira

Sarah Gilfillan, stylist, of SartoriaLab replies:

Dear Bruce,

I'm answering your question on behalf of Grey Fox as I'm afraid he has very long legs!

When someone looks at you they literally look you up and down, until they come to any distractions or horizontal lines which draw the eye from side to side. Therefore, in order to make your legs look longer, you need to keep the eye running up and down the leg - preferably from the very top of the waistband to the tips of the toes - with no interruptions. Horizontal lines include stitching details/ pockets/changes in colour/ whiskering or the width of the trousers.

Paul Smith jeans

Here are some ideas on how you can achieve that and what to look for:

Casual 

As you mentioned, choose jeans with a slightly higher waist like these ones: Armani J31, Levi 501, Levi 522, APC, Paul Smith . Look for jeans that are marked high or mid rise and avoid the ones marked low rise. Choose carefully though as you don't want to look like Simon Cowell and some styles can look dated! 

Darker colours in a clean wash ie: not washed-in or "whiskered" will make your legs look longer so choose a dark indigo and also consider ones with dark stitching instead of the more traditional orange that's used on jeans. By avoiding creating a line across the pockets of the jeans and the hems you can gain a precious few centimetres. And never turn your jeans up - this will immediately shorten your legs.

Wear a slim cut style so as not to widen and therefore shorten the appearance of your legs. For the same reason avoid cargo style pants or shorts with bulky side pockets. Make sure you check the back view when trying jeans on too and don't buy any that have very low slung back pockets as this will also visually shorten your legs.

Wear belts that are a similar colour to your trousers not your top and avoid bright contrasting colours or designs in your belts and shoes. On the top half wear shorter length jackets like a short peacoat or a bomber style, and avoid 3/4 length jackets. Tuck in shirts or ensure they're not too long.

APC

Formal wear

A crisp crease down the centre of your trousers will help to create that all important vertical line. Choose slim or straight leg trousers with no turn-ups which are more fashionable as well as more flattering than pleat fronts. Have your trousers tailored to exactly the right length with a single break.

Try and get shoes that have a tiny bit more of a heel and avoid contrast stitching or brogue-ing if possible which will allow for the eye to travel uninterrupted from the top of the waistband to the toe of your shoe. Avoid squared off or very rounded toes and choose a more flattering almond toe. 

Levi 501s

It can look a little weird if you exactly match your shoes to your trousers but if possible avoid too much of a contrast - e.g: wear a grey suit or trousers with black or dark brown shoes instead of tan ones. 

Wear your blazer or suit jacket a little shorter - fashionable at the moment and also helpful to make your legs appear longer. Have fun with your top half instead and bring the attention to this area. If your body is long in comparison with your legs then it will shorten your body if you wear horizontal lines and details such as pocket squares, tie clips and interesting ties like this one.

I hope that helps!

Sarah

See more advice on men's style at Sartoria Lab and read more about Sarah Gilfillan, who contributes regularly to Grey Fox here.

A reader asks - how can I find a jacket that fits me?

Dear Grey Fox,

If you would be so kind, I could do with some help on jacket and blazer sizing. I am trying to find a tweed jacket (Harris if possible and UK/Irish made) and finding it difficult to find something off-the-peg that looks and fits right. 

Jacket length - too short, long, just right?

I am 5'11", 33" waist, 39" chest and 11st 9lbs. What I am finding in the shops looks very long on me, especially compared with the more modern styles modelled on websites where the models seem to go to the other extreme of wearing undersized jackets. Salesmen in gents outfitters tell me that the jacket should cover the seat (their word!) and the jacket bottom falling next to the thumb knuckles.

Your jacket shown on the blog looks good and seems to conform to this advice, but it doesn't look quite right on me. Possibly my tall skinny build might be something to do with the aesthetics. Additionally because my chest is 39", I have tended to go up to 40" rather than down to 38" even though the actual sizes are 4.5 to 5" larger, thus giving room for a sweater without feeling "bunched up". Is this a mistake by your reckoning?

Image The Sartorialist

Possibly I am asking too much of a sports jacket, when I should just get the Barbour or pea-coat out in colder weather. If you can give any advice on the above, even if it's that I need to go bespoke, I will be very grateful. Possibly I need to mentally re-adjust from wearing technical and casual clothing for too long.

I have now got used to wearing the trilby and today bought a flat cap as you advised before (click here). Finally, well done on joining Esquire's top 20 well dressed men on Instagram (see link below). 

Grey Fox replies -

Many thanks for your question and comments. I'd hate you to give up the search for a tweed jacket, so I've asked my tailor, Susannah Hall, for advice. I agree there's a taste for jackets worn short in the body - often, in my view, extremely so - so this may be distorting your expectations. Fit, proportion and comfort are all important when it comes to choosing clothes, so how can you find a jacket that feels right for you?

Susannah suggests that (like me) you are tall and slim, giving problems finding jackets sized to the proportions you need. She says, 

If one is on the taller side, a short jacket will make you look taller; if too long, it will elongate the body, making you look thinner - you can't win! Your proportions mean that you will find it hard to find an off-the-peg jacket, making bespoke the best solution.

Image The Sartorialist

A jacket should cover your 'seat', not everybody likes a 'bumfreezer'. When I judge the length of a jacket I ask the client to cup his fingers so that the jacket edge sits in his hand. This method is less reliable if a client has arms that are proportionately long or short, so I make a judgement based on experience and the balance of the look. I suspect that this judgement needs to be made in your case.

If you buy a jacket a size too large you will find that the shoulders are too large (and possibly too long in the body) and sculpting the waist may still leave the jacket too roomy.

The best option for you would be to buy bespoke and it can be cut to your preference if you like to wear a sweater or waistcoat. I suspect you are a similar build to Grey Fox; he also finds that the ideal fit cannot be found off-the-peg.

Click here to visit the website of Susannah Hall tailors.

Esquire's The 20 Most Stylish Men on Instagram.

A reader asks: where to find affordable menswear - Sarah Gilfillan answers

I received this comment from  a reader, John, recently -

I really enjoy your blog, however it seems to be aimed at the "affluent" male of a certain age and unfortunately I do not fall into the former category. I would love to source my wardrobe from British manufacturers, but the reality is that I cannot afford to pay the substantial premium that this entails. For example I would like a pair of Cheaney brogues but £350 plus is out of my league so I wear a pair of £79 M&S brogues. I wear a pair of £45 Next selvedge jeans, instead of £150 plus Edwin's etc. I also buy from Topman and ASOS, to achieve many of the looks featured in your blog. I welcome your comments. (By the way this in not a criticism of your blog).

Thank you very much for raising this important point - I welcome such comments. I've asked Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab to advise us. She has much experience of helping clients with styling and clothes purchases.

Uniqlo cashmere crew neck

So, Sarah, where can mature men of style find affordable menswear?

Sarah:   I agree that sometimes we "fashion folk" get carried away by the beautiful products we see which, in reality, are out of reach for lots of people. As a personal stylist, I shop with men of all different ages including many over the age of 40. They have varying budgets so I am challenged to find the best for them within their price range.

Below I've listed some of the places that I have successfully shopped with my clients, finding items they were very happy with, firstly, in terms of fit, price and ability to fit into their lifestyle and, secondly, that we both felt hit the balance between not too young but not veering into 'old and given up' territory.

You may be surprised by some of the shops I suggest, considering them unsuitable, but I urge you to take a look next time you're out shopping or at their online stores.

Cos -

When you look at their website, you may be forgiven for thinking that the clothing is aimed at the very young and hip; but look again - a lot of the things they stock are very simple in design and cut and devoid of too much detail which, in my mind, makes them look contemporary but easy to wear for the older customer . This simplicity means they will integrate well with other pieces in your wardrobe.

My oldest client to date was a charming gentleman of 71. We purchased a number of items from here. I have spoken to his wife since and he's been very pleased with them all - as was she with his updated image!

Cos

Nigel Hall -

I regularly shop at Nigel Hall with a wide variety of clients. They seem to have something for everyone and really tick the boxes of simple style with subtle differences. The trousers go up to a size 38" waist and I'm pleased to see that they are doing XXL (44" chest) again in shirts which they stopped doing for one season. I’d liken them to Ted Baker, but a little more understated and not so well known, which means your clothing won't be instantly recognisable - rather a pet hate of mine.

Nigel Hall

Uniqlo -

I have found some ridiculously cheap and more than fabulous things in Uniqlo for clients. I remember one linen blazer in a small grey check that fitted my lovely client (who was short and rather round) beautifully and looked stunning - and it was about £35! I also favour their jeans and chinos and love that they'll take them up for you in store for free and often within a couple of hours. Their brilliant cashmere comes in soooo many colours!

My trendy Japanese hairdresser, (who's under 40) loves Uniqlo and will style it up a bit, but it can be worn as simply as you like.

  

Reiss -

This is a place I shop with guys of all ages and they often comment that they thought it was just for younger guys and would never normally go in. I agree it does have a fashion slant and I've found recently that the trousers are rather too skinny to work for some clients; but for shirts, knitwear and outerwear it’s classic with a very modern edge. I’d say it works best on guys that are slight or of a smaller stature.

Reiss

Banana Republic -

Great for basics and one of the only places that you can get blazers/sports jackets in the different lengths that are usually confined to suiting - very useful to know if you are particularly tall or short. I got a great couple of blazers here with a tall client who was in his late fifties plus lots of shirts and some excellent Prada-esque smart trainers. It's worth signing up to their newsletter as they often have loads of great discount offers. Sizes run large here.

Banana Republic

Massimo Dutti -

The older brother of Zara, and another place I shop in with clients in their late 40's and 50's. I would describe the pieces they have as elegant with a European style chic to them, usually in subtle and muted colours.  I'd say it's cut on the smaller, slim side, so not perfect for everyone, but well worth checking out.

Massimo Dutti

Kin by John Lewis -

I must admit I haven't actually shopped with anyone from this range but I've seen it and thought it looked really good and as the tagline says "Affordable, well designed, contemporary, yet timeless". I think that sums it up really well - contemporary yet timeless is exactly what I think is right for the older guy, and it does look like it's extremely good value. [Grey Fox: I have some of the range and can confirm that it is both good value, stylish and reasonably well-made].

Kin by John Lewis

In case you're wondering why Marks & Spencer is missing from this list - it's not because I don't like what they're doing, but just because most people already shop there and as men are usually creatures of habit with regard to clothes shopping, I try to introduce them to new places so they can expand their horizons when next shopping by themselves. And besides, you should know all about M&S if you've been paying attention to Grey Fox's previous posts!

Grey Fox: Many thanks, Sarah. I would add Debenhams Hammond & Co to this list. I will be writing about them again shortly [Ed. see here]. This collection, designed by Patrick Grant, contains excellently-made clothes in a classic very contemporary style. I'd also like to mention one more point -

The quality/price equation

Care needs to be taken that quality isn't compromised by cheapness. Clothes that last a few months may be cheap in the short term, but good quality will last longer, making better-made clothes a better investment. Most of the brands mentioned by Sarah combine quality with low prices, but I've bought clothes from one of the retailers mentioned above (Massimo Dutti) that hardly lasted six months. I accept that this can happen with even pricey garments and it will depend on the individual item. Check carefully for strong seams, well-attached buttons and scrunch up the fabric to ensure it is not so thin and mean that it will quickly look shabby.

There is a strong argument for buying better-made clothes as investments - you can always find them at good prices in the sales, but if the ready cash isn't available you have, as Sarah has pointed out, an excellent choice from more economically-priced brands on the high street and online.

[Ed. Since this was posted, Sarah has helpfully put together a capsule collection to illustrate how clothes from these suppliers can be put together for Spring on her own website here].

I know we haven't been comprehensive in our selection. If you have any more suggestions for us, please let is know by e-mail or comment below.

If you have any questions for Grey Fox, please e-mail.

A reader asks - hats, beards and the balding older man

A reader asks (a series in which Grey Fox helps other older men in their search for style).....

Dear Mr Fox, 

Please accept compliments on your excellent blog (including links) which neatly coincides with my intended style. As you have probably already guessed I am a middle aged man who aspires to improve my dress. Currently I spend most of my life in jeans and technical clothing and have realised I need to tidy myself up. I am 59 years old, still fit thanks to a lifetime of cycling and athletics but grey-fine haired round the sides and bald on top as you will see on the photo.

My big problem(s):

1. Given the scarcity of it, I would very much value your opinion on what hairstyle and facial hair (if any) I should adopt. 
2. What style of hat should I consider instead of baseball caps and beanie hats? A strong Yorshire accent has made me wary of wearing flat caps.

The chaps on the Fashionbeans forum have given me some excellent help and advice so far on choosing classic clothing which I am pleased to follow especially as it is consistent with predominantly buying British. A member of that forum put me onto your blog. I very much look forward to your advice. 

Best regards

Andrew

Grey Fox replies.....

Dear Andrew, 

Forgive the delayed reply and thanks for the comments on the blog. 

I take it you have adequate sartorial advice now, so let me address your question about the hair. I’ve written before on the blog for balding men and the advice I gave (having consulted many experts!) was that close-cropped neatly-cut hair is best – very much as you have now. If you want facial hair as well, the same goes, closely cut and neat – however, if you feel a bit more flamboyant the style in the attached image works very well I think – a slightly longer beard. 

Image Alan Paine

As for hats, a beanie or a trilby may be the best options – but I wouldn’t rule out the flat cap simply because you’re from Yorkshire; why not celebrate it? The choice will depend what you’re wearing it with – trilby with suit, jacket and beanie with very informal and sports wear. 

I’m sure you’ve been advised that good fit is absolutely essential – ensure jackets fit across shoulders (go to a tailor for alteration if not), and avoid teen fashions like baggy jeans and t-shirts. You’re lucky in (like me, as a cyclist) having an athletic figure – use it! 

I hope that’s helpful. If I haven’t answered the question, or you have any supplementary, let me know; I’m very happy to help. 

Best wishes 

David

Grey Fox

Grey Fox's previous scribblings on baldness can be found here.

A reader asks - where can I get good quality raw denim jeans?

A reader asks -

Firstly thanks for the blog, I enjoy following it and like to imagine myself in some of the more eccentric wear that is shown in your articles.

Distressed denims - good or bad?

I have a question, I have always liked dark jeans, having in my teenage years purchased 501 shrink to fit jeans by mail order when they had their brief resurgence during the mod revival. As I am now in my early fifties I still enjoy wearing jeans but seem to have an issue with sizing and style, as most jeans seem to be distressed or over elaborated with detail. I tend to fall back on next for jeans due to their short leg availability, but quality always seems to be an issue.

My question is do you have any advice and recommendations for good quality dark denim in sizes which flatter the shorter grey fox.
Regards
Rob

Grey Fox replies -

Hi Rob,

Many thanks for contacting me - you've anticipated a post I've been meaning to write for a while. I agree with you that there's too much artificial distressing. I too prefer natural dark blue 'raw' denim. As you know, that term simply refers to denim that has never been washed. 

The great thing about raw denim is that you can make your jeans your own. Depending on how you wear and wash them, they can become battered, faded and distressed naturally or, if you prefer and manage them right, they will stay reasonably dark in colour and provide more of a 'smart casual' look. The choice is yours. 

If you wear them for several months without washing them properly, they will acquire creases, wear and folds that reflect your use of them, even down to the marks on your pocket where you store your wallet or keys.

Image Hiut Denim

Choice will depend on budget. I avoid cheap jeans, not only for quality reasons, but to ensure that I'm buying something that has been sustainably made and not in a sweatshop somewhere. Look at Marks & Spencer who trade sustainably and have a good selection at fair prices. At the luxury end, you can buy UK-made raw denims from Hiut Denim. These are made in Cardigan in Wales, where an old jeans factory has been re-opened, reviving skills that would otherwise have disappeared.

My choice was The Jean Machine (remember that UK jeans chain from the seventies? It has been recently revived by the founder's daughter). I have two pairs of their raw (Japanese) denim jeans and am impressed - lovely denim, beautifully made and well-cut. As usual with good quality raw denim, the fabric is tough as old boots.

Raw denim jeans - image Jean Machine

These jeans are comfortable, though the denim will soften and mould to the wearer with use. I went for the JM2 straight raw - fairly slim so go for more relaxed if you don't want that - but plenty of fits and lengths for all tastes. I like them long and wear them with turn-ups - that's a solution if you like shorter lengths, or simply get them turned up.

I look forward to distressing these naturally over the next few months and will write about this process again in future posts. Please let me know how you get on.

Best wishes

GF

If anyone has any further suggestions of favourite raw denim jeans, please comment at the end of this post.

A reader asks - dressing after 40 (part 3) - keep it simple

I'm concluding this three part post responding to a reader who asked how to dress now he'd reached his fortieth birthday with a thought that's only come to me recently. Often the most successful style involves keeping it simple.

The simplicity of the look enhances the real sense of style. Image The Sartorialist

Everyone's tastes differ - luckily - but I find myself increasingly influenced by really uncomplicated looks based on straightforward shapes and colour. We're programmed from early in our sartorial lives to think about pattern and colour and how it all goes together. We get used to the idea that complexity here is the norm. Does that colour shirt go with this patterned tie with this pocket square and that blazer?

Forget all that and think about -

1. Form - is what we're wearing well-fitting and simple in shape?

2. Colour - are the colours complementary, restrained and, above all, uncluttered?

Once we are happy here we can turn to number 3:

3. Do we want to add to this basic and straightforward structure with a single bold splash of colour and/or pattern (in a tie or pocket square for example) that draws attention to, but doesn't detract from, the basic simplicity of form and colour?

The honesty of the look enhances the real sense of style. Think classical Greek architecture, think minimalism.

What do you think?

Image The Sartorialist

A reader asks - how do I dress now that I'm past 40? (Part 2)

Image unknown

This continues from my the first part of this post here, where I was responding to a reader's query about how he should dress once past forty.

My reply reflects my own thinking over the 18 months since I started to write this blog. I have no definitive answers, and my thinking is still developing; so ask me this question again in another 18 months and you'll probably have a different answer.

As I said last time, older men see style in binary terms - a choice between either young men's fashions or the shapeless neutrality so often bought by men once past forty. We see nothing in between.

The answer for me is looking for style with a twist. In reality, the older man, choosing carefully, can buy into the younger/fashionable/stylish (whatever term you want to use) end of the market without looking like mutton dressed as lamb. Younger styles tend to be slimmer-fitting and therefore can look better-fitting than the baggy, all-enveloping clothing adopted by many men in later life. Colours and patterns may be bolder, giving interest to the neutral look so often adopted as we reach middle age.

Image The Sartorialist

Here are a few general ideas -

• Make sure clothes fit well. Avoid jackets which are too large over the shoulders or too long in the arm. Find trousers which aren't too baggy around thigh and backside - and are the right length. Use your local tailor to have anything adjusted which isn't quite right. 
• Go for slimmer fits if you can. If your body shape doesn't allow this, make sure the clothes fit closely but comfortably.
• Buy as good quality as you can - I save up most of my buying for the sales. 
• Plan your wardrobe - avoid the impulse buy. Do you really need those pink chinos? What will they go with? When will you wear them?
• Start with basics - a dark suit, blue blazer, summer jacket, chinos, jeans, brogues, suede shoes, casual shoes, a few casual and formal shirts, neutral knitwear. Build from these basics, ensuring that you can interchange without clashing styles or colours, but have a few bright signature pieces (such as a fair Isle jumper or floral shirt, perhaps) to wear with jeans or trousers.

Here are a few of my favourite images, some of which I've used before, to give inspiration.

Image The Sartorialist

Image The Sartorialist

Image Hackett 

Image Catwalking

Oliver Spencer

Richard James

The Sartorialist

A reader asks - What footwear to wear with shorts?

Dear Mr Fox,

I've recently discovered your blog and am thoroughly enjoying your posts, as is my 47 year old (slightly grey haired) husband.

I have a question for your on his behalf please (as unlike me, he doesn't spend half his waking life reading blogs.) The question is, what would you suggest as a suitable but stylish footwear choice for wearing with shorts? It's a really tricky one. Sandals without socks is a solution when on holiday or in the garden, but isn't really suitable for going into town. He has tried the slip-on shoes without socks look, which was a disaster! His current stop gap solution is to wear socks with Converse trainers, which is fine, but very casual.

Image The Sartorialist

I'm not sure if you've got anything on this subject planned for future posts? If not, any suggestions you can offer will be very gratefully received.

Thank you so much for your time.
Jane M.

Grey Fox replies -

Dear Jane M.,

Thank you for your question, which exercises the minds of many men in those brief days when the weather is warm enough for shorts. Here are my thoughts - take them we you will.

Converse, or similar white or blue canvas deck shoes, are certainly a good option, as their casual and comfortable style goes well with shorts - but there are several alternatives.

Leather deck or sailing shoes are an obvious choice - they come in a wide variety of colours and are comfortable and cool to wear. I've just bought a pair of Rockport deck shoes which are beautifully soft and comfortable.

Suede shoes, as in desert boots or lightweight brogues, look good with shorts. Suede is breathable, cool, comfortably soft and works well in warm weather.

From top left - Converse, Sperry Top-Sider, Alvaro leather sandals, Castaner espadrilles, Swims deck shoes, J.Crew Kenton suede brogue. All images (except Sperry) courtesy of Mr Porter.

I avoid trainers on comfort grounds. They are sweaty and smelly in warm weather and are best kept for the sports for which they were designed. Crocs and flip flops sometimes get a bad press and you may like to restrict their use to the beach.

Sandals are fine (without socks) and can be stylish and comfortable around town if the right pair is chosen. Espadrilles are ideal, but won't last long pounding the pavements.

You mention socks - I wear them with shoes and shorts. In general, I prefer them to be light in colour (white, khaki or a pale yellow or cream) and unpatterned (and certainly not black or dark-coloured). In general they should be short, but I see no reason why long socks shouldn't be adopted by the bolder man seeking to recreate the early twentieth century military/explorer look, with khaki socks and matching shorts. My prediction is that this look will hit the fashion shows within a couple of years, so I suggest you pre-empt it now. You read it first on Grey Fox.

I've chosen some images for this post which may help your selection of shoes - good luck in your search.

All this reminds me that I'm overdue to write about the thorny issue of shorts - so I'll do that soon.

Image The Sartorialist

Image The Sartorialist

Image The Sartorialist

A reader asks - can I find a British-made white shirt?

From time to time readers write to ask where they can find certain items of clothing. Generally I have no more idea than they do; try Google is the sensible advice. However, I was recently asked whether it is possible to buy a reasonably-priced British-made white shirt. This intrigued me - every man should own a crisp white shirt - so I set out on a search and recruited the help of Twitter users to see what could be unearthed. I arbitrarily set £100 as the top price limit, but have shown some flexibility over this.

Every man should own a crisp (?) British-made white shirt

It doesn't seem long ago that one could buy reasonably-priced British-made shirts in M&S and John Lewis - generally made in Lancashire and Yorkshire, traditional home to our cotton trade. But most now seem to be made almost anywhere but in the UK - I even found some made in France. In these days of sustainable fashion, how can it be cheaper to source shirts within Europe than here? Anyway, not for me to wonder - what did I discover? To my delight, it is possible to find white UK-made shirts.

I doubt this list is complete. If you sell white shirts that fill the criteria please let me know, as I am happy to write a follow-up. Secondly, I have taken it on good faith that these are genuine British-manufactured products - it's up to you, the buyer, to check for yourself if it's really important to you.

British White Shirts

Pride of place has to go to a wonderful outfit that, I'm ashamed to say, I hadn't heard of. Mamnick make white shirts in Yorkshire for £95. The supply of this cotton oxford shirt is limited, but I had many people contact me in glowing terms about Mamnick, suggesting much about the quality of service and product.

Mamnick

Apricot Shirts looks interesting too. All their products are Lancashire-made (so I assume they wouldn't talk to their Yorkshire colleagues at Mamnick) and are priced at not far from our £100 limit.

Smyth and Gibson make shirts in their factory in Derry, Northern Ireland. Prices vary, but are just under or over our limit of £100.

Smyth and Gibson

Hilditch & Key, all of whose shirts are made in UK. Prices from around £100.

Another Northern Ireland manufacturer is Grosvenor, who have a factory in Strabane. Their white shirt costs around £100. They have shops in St James's and Mayfair.

I mention Oswald & Kane because their shirts are British-made and reasonably priced. They don't sell a white shirt yet, but watch them, as this may change.

A reader asks - what shoes should I wear?

I received this recently -

'Just a quick hello to say I am enjoying your blog very much . As a man in my forties I am finding it harder to find clothing that I feel "is me". From reading your post it seems I am doing something right, but shoes, now that is a tough one; having spent my time wearing bike and baseball boots, shoes are proving to be a difficult choice. By the way, I am more often than not in a pair of selvedge Levi 511s and an oldish Belstaff Mojave; any advice as to footwear to complement these items?

Please keep up the good work .
Best Regards
David'

Belstaff Mojave

Grey Fox's reply -

Thank you for the comments, David. You're right that the correct decision should be made about shoes. How often do you see a well-dressed look ruined by bad footwear; too pointy brogues with a nice suit, trainers with anything except sports gear, scuffed and down-at-heel boat shoes with good casual clothes?

As you get older it's best to stick to classic footwear. Anything too radical will smack of trying too hard. Look out for traditional brogues, desert boots, boat shoes, loafers or boots. In hot weather, driving shoes, espadrilles or (in the right context) Converse look good - avoid Crocs and sandals with socks.

To answer your specific question, what to wear with a Belstaff jacket and jeans? This look has its roots in biker wear, so try a pair of boots, monks or more chunky brogues or oxfords. Avoid cowboy boots, unless you live in the US in cowboy country. I'm going to choose these stunningly elegant Cambridge derby boots, made by Alfred Sargent and Sons, from Tails and the Unexpected.

 

A reader asks, 'What should I do about a receding hairline?'

I received this question from a reader -

Grey Fox - could I ask a dumb question? I am afraid I'm grey but with an ever receding hairline. What would you (or other readers) suggest for a 51 (former lawyer too) year old ? I've taken to keeping it short and wearing classics (plus hats in winter!)

D.

 And the reply?

Dear D, firstly, don't regret, or apologise for, being grey with a receding hairline. As older men, we have the advantage of being able to be proud of what we are.

I'm no expert, but it sounds as if you're doing the right thing. Work with it, not against it. Keep it short, don't try to hide anything (covering up anything only draws attention to what you're trying to hide).

Grey Fox 

If any readers have anything to add to advise Dimitrious, please add a comment below.

A reader asks, 'Can I be a dad and still dress stylishly?'

This is a question Grey Fox received recently -

Hi Grey Fox

Great blog! I've recently turned 40 and expecting my first child in April. I want to dress appropriately and stylishly - I do not want be that dad who wears hooded tops and trainers. At the same time I realise that from a 'functional' point of view certain clothes may be more suitable than my normal pre-baby staples. As a modern fella I'll certainly be doing my share of nappy-changing, bottle-feeding etc etc!! Wish me luck!

I normally like to wear things along the lines of dark denim jeans with brogues, shirt and tailored jacket and use your blog, The Sartorialist, Permanent Style Mr.Porter etc. for references.

All that said, as I'm going to be a slightly older father, I don't want people to mistake me for the baby's grandfather when we're out and about.

So my question and idea for a blog post..... do you have any tips on what's best to wear for the style conscious father-to-be?

Thanks and regards, Richard

[Editor: On 9th April 2013 I heard from Richard as follows -

Hi David
just a quick note to say that our baby - William - was born yesterday morning, 6lbs 2oz (although I'm not sure why, that's what people always want to know!). Mother and baby very well. Those Smedley jumpers of mine are in for a test over the next few years!!
Best regards, Richard.

Congratulations to Richard, Mum and baby William - enjoy the new experience!] 

 Here is the reply -

Hi Richard,

Thanks for your question. I write this reply as a man in search of style and also as a dad whose just seen children through to adulthood.

Firstly, at 40 you’re not going to be mistaken for the child’s grandfather. Parents are starting families much later and you will join a veritable throng of dads aged from their early twenties to well into the forties. Nobody will notice - anyway, they won’t want to look at you, they’ll want to coo over the baby. Also, as a dad you will find that what other people think is the last thing you will worry about – there’s too much going on.

I agree that you don’t want to be a hoodie-wearing dad; that begins to look a little sad at any age after about 25. I like the references and influences you’ve chosen for your personal style – they are all mine too.  

The functionality of clothing is an interesting point. As you will discover, changing nappies and feeding times can be extremely mucky. I recall often hoisting a baby over my shoulder after a feed to wind it and then finding that a sweetly-scented stream of milk or solids was glooping down my back – not to be done in a business suit, even with a protective muslin cloth. 

But you're not going to be popular if you excuse yourself from every mucky task because you’re wearing your new tie from Drake’s, coat from Burberry Prorsum, jumper from Richard James, waistcoat from Hackett or shoes from Loake. You will not have the chance to leap upstairs to change into your functional M&S wear before a chore – possetting happens without warning (you’ll soon find out what possetting is). 

So, what’s the answer?

I suggest you continue to dress in your normal stylish manner, but ensure that everything is machine washable. I agree that this will exclude that camel-wool cardigan you’re desperate to wear and the mohair suit from Savile Row – but the sad truth is that having babies is more of a drain on your finances than buying bespoke garments, so you will no longer be able to afford such luxuries anyway. So, buy stylish stuff, but have a peek at the washing label thingy that sellers have to put in all clothes and, if you can interpret the symbols, get clothes you can throw in the washing machine after each little accident. Whatever you do, don’t feel you have to resort to cheap, boring, acrylics once you become a father.

Good luck! By the way; you’re about to embark on the greatest voyage of your life and, really, having a child is so much more important than fashion anyway!

Best wishes,

Grey Fox

 If you have any thoughts to add, please comment below......

A reader asks - about brogues

A reader e-mailed me recently with this question about brogues (wing-tips) -

Hello Grey Fox,

New reader, newly turned 40, really enjoying the blog!  Some interesting thoughts on there.

Anyhow, I have always liked stout Loake brogues like the Chester so decided to treat myself, however, when I try them on they don't look quite right - it all seems a bit imbalanced in a full length mirror.  I'm tall/slim and favour a slim dark jean.  Is it possible that stout brogues work better with stout frames, or do you think a slightly wider regular cut jean would work better?

BF.

I replied as follows - 

Many thanks for the comments.

I find my Loake Chesters are slimmer and more elegant than many and should be fine with a taller, slimmer frame. It may be that you previously wore even slimmer shoes (Converse maybe?) so it’s a question of getting used to the new look.

I agree that some chunky, Commando-style soled brogues feel and look heavier and chunkier (particularly with slim jeans); but that is part of the look, so I think it’s worth sticking with it. Get somebody to take a photo; I’m sure it’ll look fine.

Best wishes,

 GF.

The reply?

Thanks for the reply.  You are wise indeed - I have lived in converse for the last 5 years!  Time to move on  methinks - James Murphy can get away with sneakers, jeans, black jacket and white shirt forever more but I am bored of it now :)

Thanks again

BF.

The Sartorialist

Grey Fox's Loake Chester brogues