Book Interview: From Tailors with Love - Menswear Through the Bond Films

I've recently finished reading a fascinating book on the development of the screen style of the world's most famous fictional spy, James Bond. Written by Bond style gurus and Instagrammers, Peter Brooker and Matt Spaiser, From Tailors With Love looks at the evolution and design on 007's clothes throughout the James Bond films. 

Peter Brooker sits at Ian Fleming's desk in his Jamaican villa, Goldeneye

With the imminent screening of the long-awaited latest Bond Film, No Time To Die, the book comes at a good time for Bond fans and for those with any interest in men's style. There's no doubt that 007, for a fictional character, has had a significant influence on how men dress, illuminating brands like Tom Ford, Barbour, Turnbull & Asser and so many others, but the book also looks at the tailors and shirtmakers who supplied their wares to the early film Bonds such as Connery, Moore and Dalton.

I recently spoke to Pete Brooker to find out more about his love for the Bond films and his book:

GF: Peter, please introduce yourself and tell us something about the book you've co-authored on the clothing of the James Bond films.

PB: I’m Pete, I moonlight as a menswear blogger with an unhealthy fixation on the clothes of James Bond. Some time ago, maybe four years ago, I had a chance to present a book proposal to the big cheese at Laurence King Publishing. So I went away, invited my friend and editor of Bond Suits Matt Spaiser to come up with a pitch for a book about, well, Bond Suits. Eventually that pitch was turned down, but I remember them saying it was one of the best they’d seen.

GF: How did your interest in James Bond come about?

PB: Like many, it was through my Dad. As a family we all loved watching and laughing with Roger Moore and his one liners. I would actually just laugh at my Dad laughing at Bond. At one point we both suffered injuries. My Dad broke his ankle, I chopped part of my finger off. Mum nursed us back to health and whilst convalescing, we watched back to back Bond films and played chess.

Then came the locations. I met my girlfriend Anastasia 5 years ago and we went to Rio for the Olympics. We went up Sugarloaf Mountain where they filmed the cable car chase from Moonraker. Of course I went on a hunt for the telescopes and a huge 7UP sign. From then the locations and the travel bug for Bond kicked in.

GF: Which of these locations did you find most interesting?

PB: Most of the locations have been all been thoroughly documented. And I’ve been lucky to go to the big ones like Piz Gloria from On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Phang Nga Bay, aka James Bond Island, (The Man with the Golden Gun) I remember I cried when I got ashore, not very Bond. I would say the balcony in Bilbao from the pre-titles in The World is Not Enough. Pound for pound the best pre-titles of all the Bond films. I did some proper sneaky Bond work to get in that building (not open to the public) and worm my way onto the balcony.

Peter Brooker visits various Bond locations

GF: Has the Bond sartorial style rubbed off on you? I know you have worn some interesting items of clothing with links to the Bond films.

GF: I’ve really gotten into some casual elements of Bond. I’m less about the suits for my own style, but the polos from Sunspel for example, or the Rogue Territory Waxed Ridgeline Supply jacket seen recently on Bond in No Time to Die. These brands wouldn’t necessarily be on my radar if it weren’t for Bond.

But mostly the shirts from Frank Foster who made the shirts for many Bonds (Sean, Roger, George) and the villains. They have some of the original fabric still in their warehouse. Mary the seamstress is still making shirts and I’ve been fortunate enough to become a client of theirs.

Peter Brooker wearing his Frank Foster shirt in the original fabric

GF: The book covers Bond's style in all the films, was his clothing selection influenced in any way by the clothes that Fleming's Bond wears in the books?

PB: There was not much style in the books to influence the films. In the book, Bond usually wears a dark blue suit, and Bond wears dark blue suits in many films. Sean Connery wore shirts in Sea Island cotton like in the books. The black silk knitted tie from the books shows up on rare occasion in the films. Throughout the 1980s, Bond wears slip-on shoes that take after Fleming's Bond's moccasins. It's mostly generic or ordinary styles that made it from the books to the films, and if there are any similarities between the way Bond dresses in the book and the way he dresses on-screen, it could just as likely be coincidence as it could be influence.

GF: It's clear from the book that you have met some of the recent greats of English tailoring and menswear manufacture - what were some highlights?

PB: We talked to some of the costume designers. Lindy Hemming was just incredible, so eloquent. We pretty much used the entire transcript from her interview word for word. Then some of the lesser known designers that were harder to track down. Emma Porteous for example, Jodie Tillen of course. Some of these interviews were the fruits of me hounding them for years (in some cases) before they finally relented.

GF: The film Bond has recently begun to wear clothes from US, Italian and other non-British designers and suppliers. Would you like to see a return to an all British wardrobe for Bond?

PB: Not necessarily. I think it makes sense for Bond to be international in terms of clothing. Jany Temime did a great job bringing British casuals back to Bond. Barbour, N.Peal, Orlebar Brown for example. I think it would be nice to have an all British wardrobe, would certainly help illuminate some of the brands here. But probably not practical for Bond now as a man exiled from Mi6 living abroad.

GF: If you were able to style the next James Bond, how would you dress him (or indeed, her)?

PB: I’d bring him back to the Row, or at least the Row style with a slightly fuller silhouette. I don’t actually mind the look of Daniel Craig. In Brioni in Casino Royale and Tom Ford in Quantum of Solace he looks irresistible. Some people say he looks too shrink wrapped in Skyfall and Spectre, and yes he does in some. But he has to also reflect the trends of his time. He also has to look considerably younger than M played by Ralph Fiennes in Spectre dressed in Timothy Everest. The way M dresses reflects maturity and authority. In a perfect world that’s how Bond would dress, but we can’t have Bond being ‘too establishment’.

GF: Many thanks, Pete, for this insight into your fascinating book.  

Useful links

For information on the book: https://fromtailorswithlove.co.uk/book
To buy the book on Amazon:https://amzn.to/3DU1gwM

For Matt Spaiser: https://www.bondsuits.com/

N. Peal: cashmere knitwear - the Spectre of luxury isn't just for James Bond

N. Peal's knitwear has received much coverage for the part it plays in the new James Bond Film, Spectre. Whatever you think of this (and I love the association) it can only emphasise the brand's position as a supplier of exceptional quality knitwear. Their Burlington Arcade shop, off London's Piccadilly, opened in 1936 and is still there. Its products have been worn by many famous names, real and fictional. The cashmere comes from the steppes of Mongolia where the climactic conditions in which the goats live produce a product of extreme softness, warmth and luxury.

'The name's Fox, Grey Fox'. N. Peal cashmere/silk turtle neck

The Fumo grey Mongolian cashmere roll neck (below) is one of the most desirable jumpers I've ever worn. Supremely soft, warm and lightweight yet luxurious, it was designed specifically for Daniel Craig as James Bond in Spectre.

The charcoal mock turtle neck sweater which I wear in the image at the top of this post (and also below with Daniel Craig in my version of the Spectre film poster) is a blend of cashmere and silk worsted yarn. Lightweight, soft and warm, this is a sweater for a man of action. Wear it under a blazer or tweed coat.

Grey Fox (top) and Daniel Craig (bottom) wear the charcoal turtle neck from N. Peal

Finally, the N. Peal round neck one-ply cashmere sweater in Blue Wave, as worn by James Bond in the previous film, Skyfall. It's crafted from the finest 100% Mongolian Cashmere.

For more information and to buy, please shop the N.Peal mens collection today, in so doing you will also support Grey Fox Blog.

[Note: I received no payment or products for this feature. By clicking on the link above to buy from N. Peal the blog will benefit through affiliate arrangements. You may have to pause your ad blocker.]

Waxed Crosby Slim Fit jacket by Country Attire
Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre Limited Edition (to be reviewed on the blog next week).
Spoke London chinos.

How would the James Bond of 2015 live and dress?

How would James Bond of 2015 live? The real 007, of the books rather than the films, was an affluent man in his thirties living and working fifty to sixty years ago. He wore a Rolex Oyster, drove a supercharged battleship-grey 'Blower' Bentley, was a member of Blades (a fictional gentleman's club) and probably bought his suits and shirts around Savile Row. He gambled, womanised, ate and drank in the best establishments. Could a contemporary Bond, faced with the spectre* of public spending cuts and political correctness, afford such a lifestyle?

Bond of the books and films - how close is Craig's portrayal to what Bond would be today?

The Bond in the books was a public school boy (Fettes in Edinburgh) who had joined the Royal Navy. His pay as a naval officer wouldn't have funded his lifestyle and I suspect he supplemented this and his Secret Service pay with a private family income (although he no doubt had a generous expenses account with Her Majesty's Secret Service). 

James Bond of the films is shown by Daniel Craig as a modern version of the original, affluent and well-dressed. But how realistic is this interpretation? Nowadays, public spending cuts would have capped his expenses claims; hotels would be Travelodge rather than The Ritz. Any family income will have been eroded by years of recession and taxation. His salary would be within fairly modest civil service pay-scales.

Sean Connery - the film Bond closest to the book original?

On top of these financial considerations, operational, EU, health and safety and equality regulations make it unwise or impossible for the field operative to stand out through excess consumption. Car chases are strictly forbidden by M following recent costly litigation after Bond spun his pool car, a Nissan Qashqai, into some prized topiary during hot pursuit. Even his relationships with women have been curtailed after Ms Moneypenny's successful workplace harassment claim.

Bond must now blend in with the crowd. No more gambling, expensive dining or driving expensive cars. Given these financial and operational strictures, how would a modern Bond live and dress? He is, of course, a patriot who likes to buy British. Bond keeps an eye on Grey Fox Blog for new and interesting British menswear brands. He needs durable, comfortable yet smart clothes that won't shout 'spy'. He must also be careful in his choice of cars and equipment. Here is my idea of the modern Bond.

All British smart

All Made in Britain casual/work wear 

Some of the British-designed and/or made content of Bond's Tusting holdall

British-built transport

Suppliers

Albam - Johnstons of Elgin - Private White VC - Edition Scotland - Cheaney - Marks & Spencer - Loake - Drake's - Grosvenor Shirts - Patey Hats - Spy Equipment UK - Fan Optics - Tusting - D R Harris - Dents - Age of Reason Scarves - Bremont Chronometers - Land Rover - Nissan UK - Norton Motorcycles - Roberts Cycles - (Barr & Stroud no longer make binoculars in the UK)

*I promise that this isn't a pun as I didn't know the name of the new Bond film when I originally wrote this piece.

James Bond at the Barbican - does the " British icon" influence our own style?

A new exhibition opens today (6th July) at The Barbican to mark the 50th annniversary of the James Bond franchise. It shows the design and style behind an iconic fictional character.

Most men will deny being influenced by James Bond, but many would like to be an heroic spy and some of us buy cars, gadgets and clothes accordingly (see, for example, my article here about the true James Bond wristwatch). The revival of the original beautifully minimalist Conduit Cut suit, worn by the best ever Bond, Sean Connery, is further evidence of the urge to be 007 (see the first video below and Anthony Sinclair's website for more). The classic nature of Bond's wardrobe provides the more mature male with inspiration.

We sometimes forget that Bond is a fictional character, but much of his style and outlook came from his creator, Ian Fleming, who, like his creation, loved gadgets, dressed well and lived the exotic lifestyle.

The new exhibition is at the Barbican in London and lasts from 6th July until 5th September 2012. In these two Barbican videos the influences behind the design are discussed.

 

Isn't that Aston Martin DB5 achingly beautiful? I still have my childhood Corgi model of this car, with working ejector seat (with a bad guy who is flung out in a very satisfying way), pop-up rear bulletproof shield, hydraulic rams and machine guns concealed behind the sidelights.

Vintage watches 3 - Rolex Explorer - the original Bond watch?

The Rolex Explorer has a distinguished history and is generally reckoned to be the original James Bond Rolex, as described in On Her Majesty's Secret Service. See this link for more information.

In reality, the watch has been used widely by travellers and explorers, as its simple but robust mechanical movement made it ideal for the rough and tumble of adventure. The claim that one was worn by Edmund Hillary to the summit of Everest is probably untrue, although Rolex may have supported the expedition. It's thought that he actually wore a British-made Smiths for the climb, and that company subsequently made several Smiths Everest models to commemorate this (see picture below).

Its classic simplicity and design make the vintage Rolex Explorer a must for a man of style. The company still makes a later version, but it lacks the beauty of the original 1016 and other earlier models.

Grey Fox photo - Rolex Explorer 1016

This picture of Ian Fleming from the National Portrait Gallery in London, shows him wearing his own Rolex Explorer 1016 -

Ian Fleming's Explorer, found and much exhibited recently -

Smiths Everest - Grey Fox photo