Collingwood-Norris: Knitwear Made in Scotland

Collingwood-Norris is a knitwear company based in the Scottish Borders. It was founded in 2016 by Scottish knitwear designer Flora Collingwood-Norris who sent me a few items to look at.

Lismore jumper

All the knitwear is designed and made in her small studio by Flora, using hand powered knitting machines and traditional skills such as hand knitting and crochet. Each item is hand-framed on a machine used by previous textile companies in the Scottish Borders. It is finished and washed by hand to give a beautiful soft feel. The wool is spun and dyed in Scotland and labels made in Glasgow and the UK.

A variety of Collingwood-Norris scarves

The jumper and scarves I saw were beautifully made from lambswool and the traditional and contemporary patterns enhanced by a wide colour palette, from bright colours to soft whites and grey. If you're looking for something slightly different and hand-crafted from a new business making in Britain, visit Collingwood-Norris.

A Visit to Johnston of Elgin's Hawick Knitwear Factory

I've been privileged to visit Johnston of Elgin's mill in Elgin, where bales of wool and cashmere are dyed, spun and woven into cloth, but only recently did I have the chance to visit their knitwear mill in Hawick in the Scottish Borders. While there I also had a close look at their new collections for this autumn/winter and beyond.

Johnstons of Elgin, Hawick. I'm standing by one of the older but highly efficient knitting machines

I'm sure many of you will be clear about the difference between weaving (as done in Elgin) and knitting (Hawick), but it only became clear to me in the early days of writing this blog that knitting is forming a garment by looping together yarns of wool (or other material) while weaving consists of interlacing a yarn running left to right (the weft) with a yarn running at right  angles to the weft (the warp). Originally done by hand, there are now sophisticated looms and knitting machines that make the finest cloths and clothing reliably and relatively quickly (neither process is lightning fast).

The knitwear that is produced in Hawick is principally cashmere, the fur of a goat that is collected by combing the animal (unlike wool which is gathered by cutting the fleece from the sheep, allowing it to grow again for the next year). Lambswool, merino and silk are also used. 

Computer design

The mill is a mix of the very high tech and the more traditional. As is so often the case in clothing manufacture, the solid engineering of machines first designed in Victorian times is so reliable and effective that many of the machines at Hawick would be recognised by a nineteenth century engineer - why improve what reliably produces high quality knitting? On the other hand, modern, computer controlled machines are also used to produce seamless knitwear from extremely fine gauge fibres of cashmere. Designs are made on computers which then control the machines enabling them to create the many patterns (such as cable knit or herringbone) and colours in a knitwear product.

While there I saw some of the AW17 collection and tried some of their superfine 30 gauge knitwear. Knitted seamlessly, these are the finest knitted garments and are light, soft and extremely fine to the touch. The cashmere is soft and thick, quite unlike the cheap and think cashmere knitwear sold cheaply on the high street. When I showed an image of one of Johnston of Elgin's jumpers on Instagram one follower commented that they were till wearing one they bought ten years ago; it hadn't pilled or worn. That quality makes their products value for money.

Trying some of the AW17 knitwear collection

I've talked about the superb AW17 collection before here on the blog. Johnston's first designed collection makes full use of their manufacturing and design skills that have so far been used by some of the greatest names of international fashion and design. I believe they are on to a winner with these collections, designed by Alan Scott and, having seen glimpses of what's coming next year as they develop the collections for SS18 and AW18, I have every confidence they will do very well.

The mill at Hawick is a pleasure to visit. There a superb shop and a cafe/restaurant that sells the best local cooking and products and, as ever, the people working in the mill make it what it is. Pride, skill and a desire to communicate their excitement at what they do is seen everywhere. See Johnstons of Elgin.

This is a collaboration with Johnstons of Elgin who I'd like to thank for their hospitality when I visited Hawick at their expense.

Wallace Sewell Scarves: Made in Britain

Wallace Sewell designs fabrics and scarves in the UK. Their Bauhaus-inspired asymmetric blocks of colour, given texture with stripes, dots and checks, have travelled round the world, being stocked in The Tate (most recently for the Georgia O'Keefe exhibition), used for London Underground seating and sold in many countries. I came across them a year or two ago and loved their designs so much I bought them as Christmas presents.

While there is a common theme to the designs, all are varied in colour and pattern

The scarves use an eclectic mix of materials, lambswool, silk, linen, cashmere, mohair, all contributing different feels and textures. The varied but always soft colours are match and complement each other very effectively. They also make throws and cushions, all of which are woven in England. Ideal gifts for Christmas and beyond.

For more information and to buy, go to Wallace Sewell.

Glenbrae: technical and stylish knitwear made in England

I am constantly surprised at the technical advances our clothing manufacturers make in the UK. Part of the reason for that surprise is that we British are often too modest about our achievements and don't shout about them too loudly. When I was offered a jumper to review by Huddersfield-based Glenbrae Knitwear I expected something nice, but not a jumper that is very special not only in the way it fits but in the fact that it can be machine-washed and tumble dried. 

Wearing lambswool crew neck by Glenbrae, Huddersfield

I still remember the angst that my mother and grandmother went through when knitwear was washed. It had to be done in soap, not wrung dry and carefully reshaped when drying. Often it was stretched and shapeless unless great care was made. But technology has changed this. Now it appears that, while detergents specially formulated for knitwear are preferred, we can sling our Glenbrae jumper in the tumble dryer - in fact we are told that this "actually helps reinvigorate the garment'.

The Glenbrae mill in Huddersfield

Image Glenbrae

A selection of the wide range of colours available from Glenbrae

The lambswool jumper I tried fits beautifully, avoiding the rather baggy and shapeless feel that lesser knitwear can have. Sleeve length is generous and there is a selection of colours for most tastes. The properties of the garments lie in the nature of the wool yarn (Spirol), created by Glenbrae at their Huddersfield mill, which allows them to retain their natural softness for longer, resist pilling, rarely crease and be machine washable. They are knitted using a 3D knitting process which helps fit and durability; all of which I can confirm from using the jumper. Jumper prices from £70.

For more information and to buy, go to the Glenbrae website.

The jumper was provided by Glenbrae for review, otherwise this is an unsponsored post.

Featherweight spring/summer cashmere sweater from Johnstons of Elgin

These featherweight cashmere sweaters, knitted in Johnston of Elgin's factory in Hawick, Scotland, are made of extremely fine cashmere, making them cool and comfortable on warm or slightly cooler days. They come in a few colours, but this sandy one is my favourite for summer. 

I know from the Johnstons of Elgin cashmere jumpers that I own that their quality is the highest. If you generally buy cheap high street cashmere you'll be astounded at how different the best is. A stylish and unusual jumper priced at £249. Available for men and women here.

This feature is unsponsored.

Three British-made knitwear brands to watch: Khunu, Tailor Retailored & Just Wool Textiles

With the cold weather set to be with us for a while yet, and the prudent man carrying knitwear even during the summer in case of evening chill, now's a good time to look at three British-made knitwear brands you may not know. Each offers something different. 

Khunu

Khunu offers knitwear made from yak wool - all of its products are made in England. 'Warmer and softer than merino and more durable than cashmere' is their claim. They sent me two items for review, an Irvine sweater with saddle shoulder, ribbed cuff and corozo nut buttons and a snood. 

The wool, sourced from Himalayan yaks, is soft and luxurious, but somehow feels durable. I loved the subtle greys, charcoals and browns, giving an understated appearance to the products. These have become favourites. See Khunu for more information.

Tailor Retailored

The Tailor Retailored draws on the impressive fashion marketing, design and cashmere production experience of its founders, John MacEwan and Richard Olive, to bring a fresh, modern and seasonal relevance to men’s cashmere knitwear. Using the best cashmere, each piece is made in Tailor Retailored's Scottish workshops.

I was sent Rothko chunky roll neck in thick pure cashmere. Probably one of the thickest and softest cashmere jumpers I've owned, it offers a slight twist to traditional styling, with a large, warm roll neck, generous sizing and side vents. This is a seriously luxurious yet chunky piece of knitwear and I've been wearing it a lot on the coldest days when it's ideal under a tweed jacket. Highly recommended. See The Tailor Retailored for more information.

Just Wool Textiles

Neil Wildman-Whitten weaves scarves and blanket from wool from The Falkland Islands. Each item he makes takes several hours of work and he applies to each a very personal touch as he weaves it on his own loom. 

The scarf made in aid of Combat Stress

He designed and made a Grey Fox scarf from blue/grey and orange wool and I also bought from him a scarf produced in aid of Combat Stress, a charity that supports servicemen and women who suffer from this condition. 

The scarf designed for Grey Fox is styled with an outfit for spring

These scarves are ideal for this time of year as they are made of a lighter weight yarn, often blended with silk, making them ideal in spring. The scarves take about two and a half hours to make, exclusive of the dying process, so these are products into which much work, time and expertise have been invested.

All Neil's work is produced very much with customers' requirements in mind and I suggest you get in touch to see what he can do for you. Just Wool Textiles.

Note: In all the features above I was sent products free of charge for review. 

Plum - Royal alpaca knitwear made in Britain

Businesses making knitwear in the UK are now quite common, but few, like Plum of London, use Royal alpaca from South America, a fibre which exceeds cashmere in strength, warmth and softness. Plum's founder, Hugo Douglas, works closely knitting and weaving mills in England and Scotland to push the boundaries in knitwear fashion and to create sustainable and eco-friendly luxury British knitwear using ethically sourced alpaca yarn.

Grey Fox wears an alpaca sleeveless pullover from Plum (image Black.co.uk)

The menswear range is still under development, but I tried a few items. The feel is of a smoothness and softness that speaks luxury and quality. The fibre is naturally light in weight and this gives the garments a misleadingly insubstantial quality which is contradicted by their warmth and comfort. Alpaca of this quality would make a superb fabric for sporting base layers and could be worn next to the skin without smelling unpleasant in the way that modern artificial base layers do.

Keep an eye on Plum of London. Their innovative, sustainable, ethical and novel approach to knitwear offers a real alternative to high end, expensive fashion brands making lower quality products outside the UK. To see their ranges for men, women, children and homeware, see Plum of London.

Fraser Knitwear scarves: made in Shetland - a Grey Fox photoshoot

No matter how good your coat and hat, you're always going to feel the cold without a good scarf. Fraser scarves are made in the Shetland Isles, the home of Fair Isle knitting. The islands' position to the far north of the Scottish mainland has for centuries put them at the centre of trading routes with Scandinavia and the Baltic, leaving cultural influences including the rich patterns of Fair Isle knitwear. 

We're lucky, living in our ancient, multicultural country here in the UK, to be able to raid a rich seam of historic clothing design and wear tweeds, tartans, knitwear adapting it from its original uses to wear in town or country, for formal or informal. For our photo shoot, Joan Fraser asked us to portray her beautiful scarves in an urban setting. 

 

Made from lambswool or cashmere, the scarves come in a very natural range of colours from monochromes, soft blues, through dove greys and stone to chocolate brown. Contemporary and understated, they've rapidly become my favourites: the lengths are ideal, they are soft, warm and comfortable and bring a subtle mix of contemporary and historic design to enhance any casual or formal look. With their Fair Isle designs they also make excellent Christmas presents. See Fraser Knitwear for more information and to buy. Prices from £60 to £110.

Photographer Nick Maroudias. Styling by personal stylist, Sarah Gilfillan of SartoriaLab. This photoshoot was sponsored by Fraser Knitwear.

Suit: Edit Suits

Tweed coat: Greatcoat

Tweed jacket: Gloverall

Check Me Out: luxury scarves for Christmas, made in Scotland

I've known Holly Pressdee and her love of tweed for a while. But until very recently she'd kept quite about a new venture, Check Me Out, designing and selling luxury cashmere and merino scarves, made in Scotland. If you're looking for a present that will really attract interest, you'd be hard-pressed to do better than buy one of her beautiful scarves. 

The cashmere London check £430

The merino London check £210 

The designs take inspiration from a special place or memory, here London, with colours of the London Underground being used.

As Holly pointed out to me, although she had women in mind when designing them, these scarves would suit anyone. Woven by one of my favourite manufacturers, Johnstons of Elgin, whose design , knitting and weaving skills are used by international household name fashion houses, this is knitwear of the highest pedigree. I'd love to give one this Christmas!

See Check Me Out. The scarves are also stocked at Dashing Tweeds, 26, Sackville Street, London, W1S 3HE (telephone +44 (0)20 7439 8633) where Holly is Studio Manager.

Interview: Ally Bee Knitwear, made in the UK from British wool

Ally Bee makes scarves, gloves and armwarmers for men and women. They are made from wool from British alpacas and blue-faced Leicester sheep - grown, spun and knitted in the UK.  I spoke to Alison Baker, whose passion for her products and for ethical, sustainable production comes across very clearly on her website at Ally Bee. Read the interview below.

GF: Tell us something about your business and how long you've been going?

AB: Ally Bee Knitwear produces collections for men and women using natural fibre yarns grown, spun and knitted in Great Britain. The first Ally Bee collection was launched in October 2014. This was the culmination of nearly two years researching and testing British alpaca and wool yarns and making connections with suppliers who helped turn the concept into a reality. Alpaca yarns in the collection are spun in a small spinning mill in Dorset from the annual clip from flocks reared in the region. A small supply of Bluefaced Leicester yarn is sourced from Yorkshire. Ally Bee collections are designed in London and crafted in a small knitwear factory in Hawick in the Scottish Borders, mostly on manually operated knitwear machines machines - the ‘old school’ way, continuing a long heritage of skilled knitwear manufacturing.

GF: What is your background and why did you end up in the luxury knitwear market?

AB: My background is in the law, so setting up a fashion label was a leap of faith, into the unknown. Several years back law [training] contracts were a bit hard to come by and I took an opportunity to sell alpaca knitwear for a Peruvian company. I was no good at this at all - but it gave me the simple idea to develop a small, high-end knitwear collection from the fleece of the alpacas reared in the UK. When I discovered both the quality and sustainability of this local fibre, my idea quickly turned into a passion and that is when my real journey into fashion began. 

I saw British alpaca’s potential as an alternative to the imported cashmere and merino fibre so ubiquitous across the spectrum of knitwear. All British - from fleece to fine finish - is a natural alternative, there are zero-airmiles in production, it supports skilled local production and the UK’s fine heritage of knitwear manufacturing.

GF: What influences the designs of your knitwear?

AB: When I design the Ally Bee collection with my knitwear designer we seek to develop pieces that are beautiful, understated and useful. I am influenced by a need for comfort, practicality and longevity in what I make. The alpaca arm warmers, for example, are very soft but remarkably durable - they make a great glove for cycling in all weathers, and seem to get softer with each wash. I design with timeless style in mind because I want Ally Bee to be worn often, and well beyond one season. The natural, undyed colour shades possible with alpaca fits perfectly with this notion and I do not want to be constantly chasing seasonal colour trends. I am firmly of the opinion that we should buy well, and buy less.

GF: How do you see that the menswear and womenswear collections will develop in future?

AB: I see both the men's and women's collection evolving rather than radically altering each season. Menswear launched this season with as a small accessories line and I am currently sampling a mens alpaca sweater in several colourways for next Autumn/Winter to build on this, along with several scarves to add to the collection. The styles most popular with my customers will continue, adding a colourway or tweaking a design element each season.

I love working with alpaca yarn in knitwear - despite it being technical and requiring time, patience and love in yarn production and knitwear sampling. For the timebeing there will be only Autumn/Winter collections in mens and womenswear but I have launched a homewares line recently and this will be perennial. Knitwear and the idea of ‘slow’ fashion marry well!

In the future I am also open to design and marketing collaborations on alpaca knitwear collections with other designers and brands who share a similar design and sustainability ethos.

NOTE: Ally Bee's photoshoot above also used products from surf and outdoor brand, Finisterre, who also use British-produced yarns for some of their products. See, for example, their Bowmont jumper here.

Ten reasons to wear a roll neck this winter

The roll neck, polo neck, turtle neck jumper sometimes gets a bad press. Don't let that put you off. As can be seen from this surprisingly contemporary-looking image of Michael Caine, it's a classic that has never really gone away. Here are ten images to inspire you to wear one this winter. For suppliers see the end of the post.

Michael Caine - a shot that could have been taken in 2015

How a roll neck can look good

From soft, fine cashmere to thick, chunky knit, the roll neck can be worn with everything from formal evening wear, through blazers, tweed jackets, bombers and suits to waxed jackets and anoraks for windblown walks across the moor. Best of all, they save ironing shirts, as a luxurious cashmere or merino roll neck can be worn with or without a simple base layer in place of a shirt in colder weather.

Grey Fox wears an N. Peal cashmere roll neck, as worn in the Bond film, Spectre. Image Nick Maroudias

You get what you pay for in terms of quality and durability with knitwear. Here are a few suppliers of roll neck jumpers of varying styles and materials and at various price points (if the link doesn't take you direct to a polo neck, search the site for what you want):

Johnstons of Elgin
N Peal
John Smedley [Thanks to a reader for prompting me to include this great maker of knitwear]

Shackleton Menswear
Realm & Empire

Jigsaw Menswear 
Esk Cashmere

Topman Menswear
M&S
Uniqlo

N. Peal: cashmere knitwear - the Spectre of luxury isn't just for James Bond

N. Peal's knitwear has received much coverage for the part it plays in the new James Bond Film, Spectre. Whatever you think of this (and I love the association) it can only emphasise the brand's position as a supplier of exceptional quality knitwear. Their Burlington Arcade shop, off London's Piccadilly, opened in 1936 and is still there. Its products have been worn by many famous names, real and fictional. The cashmere comes from the steppes of Mongolia where the climactic conditions in which the goats live produce a product of extreme softness, warmth and luxury.

'The name's Fox, Grey Fox'. N. Peal cashmere/silk turtle neck

The Fumo grey Mongolian cashmere roll neck (below) is one of the most desirable jumpers I've ever worn. Supremely soft, warm and lightweight yet luxurious, it was designed specifically for Daniel Craig as James Bond in Spectre.

The charcoal mock turtle neck sweater which I wear in the image at the top of this post (and also below with Daniel Craig in my version of the Spectre film poster) is a blend of cashmere and silk worsted yarn. Lightweight, soft and warm, this is a sweater for a man of action. Wear it under a blazer or tweed coat.

Grey Fox (top) and Daniel Craig (bottom) wear the charcoal turtle neck from N. Peal

Finally, the N. Peal round neck one-ply cashmere sweater in Blue Wave, as worn by James Bond in the previous film, Skyfall. It's crafted from the finest 100% Mongolian Cashmere.

For more information and to buy, please shop the N.Peal mens collection today, in so doing you will also support Grey Fox Blog.

[Note: I received no payment or products for this feature. By clicking on the link above to buy from N. Peal the blog will benefit through affiliate arrangements. You may have to pause your ad blocker.]

Waxed Crosby Slim Fit jacket by Country Attire
Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre Limited Edition (to be reviewed on the blog next week).
Spoke London chinos.

Video: Peregrine Clothing made in England from British wool and fabrics

Knowing my love for British-made menswear (and factory visits), family-owned Peregrine Clothing, founded in 1796, have kindly given Grey Fox Blog readers an exclusive preview of this video showing their clothes being manufactured at their factory in England using British wool and fabrics. For more on their innovative ranges of men's and women's knitwear see Peregrine Clothing.

Spring & summer knitwear from Realm & Empire, made in Britain

The recent spring cold snap shows how true is the old saw, 'Ne'er cast a clout 'til May is out'. Whether 'may' refers to the month or to may blossom is unclear, but the truth is that, in the UK anyway, spring and early summer can't be trusted and a warm layer should always be on hand.

Realm & Empire's lightweight knitwear is made in the UK in merino or lambswool. Below is the denim-coloured Mona merino cardigan, inspired by the Duxford cardigan which I wrote about here, but made lighter for spring/summer use.

Realm & Empire Mona Merino Cardigan £120

Below is the Digby merino waffle crew which can be worn over a shirt or base layer. Available in denim blue or silver grey, it's designed and made in Leicestershire to be a versatile and lightweight knit for warmer weather (link to buy below).

Digby merino crew in denim blue or silver grey (below) £100

All  are ideal with jeans, summer trousers or even shorts with deck shoes, Converse or canvas shoes. Available from Realm & Empire or various stockists. 

Friday Favourites: Johnstons of Elgin knitwear for spring & Bedroom Athletics slippers

Johnstons of Elgin

From Johnstons of Elgin comes Scottish high quality knitwear and these two jumpers are ideal for those chiller days on spring and summer.

On the left: a slim-fit round-neck jacquard jumper, £195. On the right: cashmere cable-knit round-neck jumper, £245. From Johnstons of Elgin.

Bedroom Athletics

From the wonderfully (and promisingly) named Bedroom Athletics comes a range of loungewear and slippers. They offered me a pair of their men's Harris Tweed moccasins. Made in a variety of patterns and colours of the Scottish tweed which is hand-woven on Harris, they are comfortable and stylish; not at all 'fluffy-slipperish', if you know what I mean. For the man who likes his slippers to have a dash of testosterone. £60 from Bedroom Athletics.

Bedroom Athletic Edward - Harris Tweed moccasin slippers (dog hairs extra)

Country of Origin: knitwear hand-framed in Scotland

I had the opportunity to try some beautiful knitwear hand-framed in Scotland recently when the good people from Country of Origin asked me to take part in a photo-shoot. 

The jumpers have to be worn and felt to be truly appreciated; the lambswool is thick and soft, very luxurious and warm. They are made to order on a vintage hand-powered Dubied knitting machine that adds character and individuality to each limited-edition piece. 

No mass-produced jumpers here. Go to Country of Origin for more information and to buy.

Harry's tweed collar and lead are from LoveMyDog.

Quinton & Chadwick: knitwear designed and made in Britain

I've crossed paths with knitwear designers Quinton & Chadwick several times. Most recently, I saw their collaboration with Dashing Tweeds and reported on it here in a previous blog post.

Jane Chadwick and Jess Quinton came together fifteen years ago to launch their knitwear label using only British manufacturers. Their products are stocked worldwide. Both have textile, as well as fashion, backgrounds. Jess worked for Italian fashion house Missoni after graduating from the RCA and Jane ran her own label and consultancy business.

Both work hard to keep traditional knitting skills alive in the UK. They use small specialist factories in Scotland and Nottingham and a co-operative of hand-frame knitters in Cornwall. They describe the style of their knitwear as having being 'traditional modernist' and having a 'modern edgy twist on heritage knit patterns...inspired by colour and the play of scale and pattern, each new collection moves with current trends yet enhances their strong quirky graphic style.'

To find out more, or to buy their colourful knitwear, click on Quinton & Chadwick.