What is Style? How to Achieve Personal Style in Menswear

What is style? Pinning down the meaning of the word is like trying to grab a piece of soap in the bath. When we describe a man as 'having style' we mean that he has good style. A man could have style that's appallingly bad, but we assume when we say that he 'has style' that it's good.

Leaving aside that that etymological quirk, let's attempt to identify what good style and is and how we achieve it. [Note that this is an update of an article that appeared here a few years ago].

Cary Grant - traditional style

Style is Multifactorial

What makes good style? It goes beyond how we appear and the clothes we wear. Proportion, colour, pattern act alongside how we move, behave to others and hold ourselves to add to a general impression. Style is multifactorial and this is why some men and women can wear an old bin bag and look good, while many of us struggle to do so with even good, well-made clothes.

What makes good style? What do you like/not like with these images? Are these men stylish?

What factors are relevant to finding style? I call them factors as I dislike setting 'rules' about style. I'm occasionally berated on Instagram for doing up this button or undoing that one, or wearing a tie too long or too short (see more on this in my post on The Rules of Style). Such expectations - rules if you like - are nonsense. Part of the pleasure of style is playing with its elements to find new looks. Just as a piece of music can be played in countless different ways, so a blue suit and tie with a white shirt can be worn in many ways which subtly differ. Playing with the elements of style enables these differences to be subtly adopted and used.

Here are what I see as some of the elements of style. I don't pretend that they're complete or accurate; we all learn as we go along.

Stand Proud

Standing and walking confidently is a good foundation to looking stylish. Clothes are designed to fit best when we are upright and that aura that self-confidence brings adds a to the overall impression.

In selecting clothes stay within your comfort zone so that you look happy with  your outfit. As you test out your preferences you'll feel more confident about your style and confidence brings that look of style and comfort with yourself.

Money Doesn't Buy Style

The richest are often the least stylish. While this doesn't apply to all, tasteless displays of wealth focus on bling rather than well-designed substance. A huge gold neck chain will never give the impression of sophisticated style that a discreet, well-designed vintage watch (which needn't cost much) can impart. 

Buy well-made, quality, well-designed clothing. Don't buy simply for the name. There's great pleasure to be had in finding a small business that makes excellent menswear that you love to wear - this is why I promote brands that made in Britain. You could end up spending less if you purchase wisely and well. 

Aim for a compact capsule wardrobe where a modest number of pieces work together to make a variety of looks that you feel good wearing, rather than filling your wardrobes with potential landfill.

The Devil's in the Detail

Exude style from every pore. Every aspect of a look counts. A superb suit will be nothing if worn with a cheap pair of shoes or a shapeless and boring topcoat. Every detail should shout style, design, quality, from your socks to your wristwatch.

Closely inspect a photograph of a look that you like. Look at the smaller elements; accessories like the watch, the pocket square; the colour of the socks, how patterns are made to play with each other in harmony or contrast. Colours are a powerful element; are they monochrome or contrasting, what hues work best together? Are the clothes brand new or do they have an attractive patina of wear and age? How are scarves and ties tied - carefully or with artful abandon? Do you prefer a regimented tidy look or a careful attempt at sprezzatura?

Whatever conclusions you come to, don't be shy of experimenting with ideas you adopt from elsewhere or using thoughts of your own.

Grooming

Good grooming is essential. Like shoes, a good haircut is vital as are clean nails and a generally scrubbed appearance. This isn't the same as looking tidy; an artfully unkempt look can be successful but has to be very carefully curated.

Personality

Style is about your character - it's not about slavishly following fashion. Fashion models seldom show their own style on the catwalk. Catch them after the show, dressed in their own clothes, and the picture is very different; they know how to dress well and reflect their own tastes and characters, showing true personal style.

It's important to stick to clothes that you feel comfortable wearing. I don't just mean physically comfortable, I also mean that we should never have to feel self-conscious in our clothes. 

Confidence is a large element of style. That's why some wear more outrageous, colourful or different clothes from the norm - they tend to have the confidence to make such looks work. In my experience, confidence comes with practice and experience. I wear clothes now that I would have felt uncomfortable with before I started my search for style nine years ago.

Your personality and tastes will change with time, so don't get stuck in a rut. Try new things, try to push out the boundaries of your comfort zone, without going beyond the personal bounds mentioned above. I've found that this opens up a wider choice of outfits and looks and I've occasionally found I like things that I thought I'd never wear (such as denim jackets!)

What style elements do you like?

Style isn't about imposing your own taste on others

How often do you see someone stylishly dressed, but you wouldn't choose to wear what they're wearing? The older man in double denim, the loud check suit, the orange knitwear - you may not like them, but the wearer looks great in them.

I'm surprised how often the Instagram audience is prepared to comment when they don't like something. Variety being the spice of life we should respect different styles. With an open mind we may even come to adopt elements of a look we had thought we didn't like. I never thought I'd like to wear a denim jacket, but a vintage example is now part of my wardrobe, often worn with tailored trousers and a roll neck or a linen shirt.

So, style is hard to define, but we know it when we see it. We sometimes disagree over what makes good style, but that's linked to our individual tastes. Thankfully we don't all like the same things. If we did, the world of style would be monochrome and boring and we would never develop our own likes and looks.

Finding inspiration

It's impossible to be totally original in your style choices so don't try to be something that's unique; that's simply never going to happen. There are only so many styles of garment and there's nothing that hasn't been tried before. Keep an eye on The Sartorialist, Scott Schuman's images got me started on the blog, and collect looks you like on Pinterest, using appropriate search terms to help you find looks you might like. 

The rise of the street style image, largely through the work of Schuman and others like him, has democratised style. Fashion has had to take second place to the choices of individuals whose personal tastes have, for a decade, driven style to become more diverse. Fashion is now inspired by street style. The dog now more obviously wags to tail, rather than the tail of fashion wagging the dog of individual style.

This has been fuelled by a rise in respect for personal choice. Gender is now fluid and masculinity no longer requires manly clothing. As prejudice is rightly condemned in so many spheres of life, so people feel freer to wear what they like. The increasing richness and variety being worn on our streets and captured by photographers gives a hugely inspiring source of ideas to anyone interested in searching for an effective personal style.

Use elements of these looks yourself, or even whole outfits if you wish. See what works on you (ask friends and partner for opinions) and stick to what you feel comfortable with. Gradually you will evolve an understanding of your own style.

Good luck with your search for style. Mine has lasted twelve years (I started late in life) and continues. With experience I now know what I like and what works - some of the time. The search for style is never-ending.

******

In the companion part of 'What is Style?" I ask my favourite personal stylist, Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab, to give her views on style. She helps men select stylish clothes for a living and has much experience and many useful thoughts on the topic. Read 'What is Style? How to be Stylish' by Sarah Gilfillan here.

Seersucker: Summer Style

Increasing summer heat means that the search is on for fabrics that are cool, stylish and, for holiday use in particular, easy to maintain. A cloth that has become a summer favourite for me is seersucker.

Gregory Peck wears seersucker as Atticus Finch in To Kill a Mockingbird 1962

Tailoring is becoming less structured and more comfortable. Linen is popular for summer but can be hard to look after as a tailored linen garment is best dry cleaned. A better choice is seersucker. Easily maintained (it can be washed in cool water, more below) and relatively crush-free, seersucker is ideal for travel in warmer climes where a lightweight, airy, and relatively crushproof cloth is essential. While remaining crisp and elegant in the heat seersucker develops a slightly lived in look which Gregory Peck displays to perfection in To Kill a Mockingbird (see above).

Originally from India, it was introduced to Europe on the eighteenth century and while we now associate it with the USA (where it started out as workwear for the poor but later became an essential part of a preppy summer outfit), it was originally adopted by the British and other Europeans for wear in hotter climes.

Seersucker is woven from cotton, linen or manmade fibres, although I suggest you avoid the latter. Some years ago I was loaned a seersucker suit. It looked great; navy blue, double breasted with tapering trousers with turn ups. However, the cloth was made from a synthetic fibre which meant that on hot days it became almost unwearable: hot, damp and smelly. Natural fabrics, on the other hand, remain breathable and comfortable.

The cloth is woven at varying tensions so that it has alternating puckered stripes which are said to lift the material away from the body, allowing cooling and drying air to circulate; whether this is a valid scientific explanation I don't know. Certainly seersucker is light in weight and I find it cooler to wear than medium-weight linens, even though it has a tighter weave. Its slight elasticity adds to its comfort.

We tend to associate seersucker with blue or grey and white stripes, but it's available in plain colours and a wide variety of stripes (see below). 

And of course seersucker has been worn by the congenitally cool for many years, as can be seen from this selection of images:

Cecil Beaton wears Anderson & Sheppard seersucker in 1936

David Hockney 1967

James Stewart in seersucker, Spencer Tracy in linen

Miles Davis in seersucker

So, seersucker provides a summery alternative to linen. Both have similar casual, slightly rumpled, preppy looks. The choice between them is down to personal taste. Many dislike the wrinkled nature of linen: while seersucker rarely looks too crushed. Linen has a looser weave and, if not too heavy, ventilates better than seersucker - but the latter is a lighter weight cloth so doesn't seem to retain heat as much as linen while still protecting against the heat of the sun. 

In terms of maintenance, seersucker seems to hide stains more effectively than linen, especially if striped or checked. Seersucker (unlike linen which will need dry cleaning) can in theory be  washed in water, but linings may complicate this, so check the washing instructions. Despite these considerations, I have no preference between linen and seersucker and wear whichever I am in the mood to wear on a particular day. I do prefer seersucker for travel as it's so easy to look after and is relatively crease-free

Try mixing seersucker with other cloths: seersucker trousers with a linen or lightweight wool blazer or vice versa, a seersucker jacket with shorts or trousers from a contrasting colour summery cloth.

Wearing seersucker

I own two seersucker suits. A navy blue suit was made to measure some years ago by King & Allen. The striped suit shown below was off the peg (altered to fit) from MbE at Grey Flannel. This is the cooler to wear of the two as the jacket is unlined, single breasted and loosely cut to ensure ventilation. The navy blue suit has a partly lined, double breasted jacket, making it slightly warmer to wear on a hot day - but it looks great as a more formal, warm weather work suit. 

Both are worn regularly as separates, indeed, the casual nature of seersucker means that you don't so much buy a suit as matching jacket and trousers - the future of the suit indeed (see my feature "Will The Suit Survive?")

Monk Straps: The Cinderella of Shoes?

Monk strap shoes tend to be overlooked in favour of oxford, derbies, sneakers and loafers, but they offer both comfort and style and are worth your consideration when next buying shoes for casual or formal use. 

I wear Loake Medway suede monks (socks Peper Harow) - all made in England

I acquired my first pair (pictured above) only two or three years ago when I was looking for something a little different. A suede pair of single strap monks made in England by Loake, they have proved invaluable worn with everything from tweed, through formal suits to knitwear and jeans.

If you search for the history of the monk strap shoe you find references to medieval monks, but how this led to the adoption of the name for the shoe isn't clear. The general view seems to be that the style was developed in its present form early in the last century. Presumably the style reminded people of the strapped closed toed shoes that monks wore when their open-toed sandals were impractical for work outdoors as they let in stones and mud. 

I found an image (below) of a late 15th / early 16th century child's shoe from London's Victoria & Albert Museum which shows that buckled straps have been around for centuries. Although this is a shoe for a toddler, you can imagine monks wearing similarly simple but practical footwear. 

Child's strapped shoe late 15th/early16th century. Image V&A London

Advice on the web suggests that the monk strap shoe is semi-formal, somewhere between the oxford (formal) and derby (less so) with the double monk, which has two buckles on each shoe (see images below) being the more casual. Monks come in all sorts of leather and those in suede or with a brogued finish will be at the more casual end of the spectrum, while a plain pair in black calf would be ideal for more formal wear.

I'm wearing Loake single monk straps in black calf and suede

It's generally said that monks shouldn't be used with very formal wear such as black tie. I disagree. A single strap monk in polished black is an elegant and simple addition to evening wear. It's not uncommon to see men wearing monogrammed velvet slippers and even patent leather loafers with black tie so it's hard to understand how a simple, smart and stylish pair of highly polished monk shoes should be the cinderella at the ball.

Double & single monk straps (Loake Shoemakers)
I wear the black pair with formal evening wear

Click here to find out about the Loake English-made monk strap shoes.

With thanks to Loake Shoemakers for supplying the shoes and some of the images for this feature. 

A Guide to Perfect Trouser Leg Length

There has been much discussion about the sartorial tastes of Britain's latest Prime Minister, Rishi Sunak. His close fitting suits with cropped jackets and ankle length trousers proved controversial with some (see end of this feature), but his preference for having his trouser cuffs above his ankle bone is a reflection of the upward trajectory of trouser lengths over the last few years. 

While I personally wouldn't wear mine quite so short, I'd argue that the look is preferable to the trouser style of the former US President, Trump, whose trousers fold around his ankle and over his shoes - a look that is mercilessly untidy and unflattering.

Comparing trouser lengths, Sunak and Trump

The Ideal Trouser Length

So what is the ideal length for your trousers (or pants if you are from across The Pond)? As ever with matters of style, it's a matter of personal preference, but, as the above photos suggest, a shorter trouser length gives a cleaner look. Too short can give the appearance of a schoolboy who has outgrown his uniform, just as too long can give the opposite impression, that of the schoolboy whose parents are careful with money so have bought an oversize pair to ensure they last longer. There is a careful balance to be struck.

Guidance about trouser lengths usually discusses the 'break', the fold(s) caused by the cuff lying on the shoe. Significant breaks are now less often seen on those who profess to style. Trousers which taper nicely to a minimal or no break flatter the wearer, increasing the apparent of leg length and giving a neater look. Rishi Sunak is 1.7m (5' 7") and his shortened trousers with their clean line, to my eye, give him added apparent height.

My favoured trouser lengths

Turnups (or cuffs)

I've been having turn ups on my trousers for the last few years and, while I'm beginning to tire of them, this seems a good opportunity to share my thoughts on them. They do finish off more formal trousers nicely but I would avoid them on casual trousers as they fill with debris when worn on country walks. Jeans are hard to shorten without losing the stitching at the cuff (unless you're a dab hand with a sewing machine) so I tend to roll them up. Historically jeans were always sold at standard lengths so folding up the cuffs is a long and honourable tradition.

I wear my turn ups 2" deep. For those with slightly longer legs this works well, but for those with shorter legs I'd suggest 1.5" or 1.75" as deeper cuffs have a leg shortening effect.

Cropped Trousers

Cropped trousers, ending a couple of inches or more above the shoe, are a separate issue and are more of a fashion statement. They are associated in my mind (quite acceptably) with sockless summer wear with loafers, trainers or sandals or with the now rather overdone look of brogues on sockless feet. Cropped trousers look best with casual wear but many (such as Rishi Sunak) wear them tailored with suits and blazers where they give a more contemporary than classic look. 

Cropped trousers / pants - image The Sartorialist

And finally, below I cheekily reproduce a post from my Instagram grid from October 2022. Click here to see some of the wonderful (and less so) comments:

The Rules of Style & Buttoning Your Waistcoat

From time to time people contact me to complain about one or other aspect of a look that I've posted on Instagram. The last I received ticked me off for wearing a cardigan with the bottom button done up; and I suspect they were serious. This got me thinking generally about the 'rules' of style.

Image Whitfield & Ward Tailors who overlook the bottom button 'rule' for good reasons (see below)

There is a convention that the bottom button of a waistcoat (or vest to use its original name - still used in the US) is left undone. Several explanations can be found for this tradition. The most common is that King Edward VII's courtiers undid theirs to emulate their sovereign whose ample girth prevented him doing up every button of his waistcoat. It was perhaps a matter of etiquette: respect or politeness. As that particular King is long dead the convention could be said to have long lapsed. 

Whatever the origins of the habit, there is no 'rule' that demands that you leave said button undone. Look at the image below of a slim Edward VII (taken in 1882), what do you notice about the buttoning of his waistcoat / vest?

Edward VII Image National Portrait Gallery London

Waistcoats are often cut so that the bottom button can't be done up without affecting the line of the garment. That's a result of the convention. This is good enough reason to leave it undone; the cut makes it hard to do otherwise. My advice would be that, if the waistcoat is cut so that the bottom button can be done up, do just that. It will help cover your waistband and also look tidier (see the above image by Whitfield & Ward, Tailors (link below) - doesn't that look neat?) 

But however you want to play that one, there is no law, rule, etiquette, convention or tradition (going back to the recent complaint that I received) that demands that the bottom button of a cardigan be left unsecured. We often see buttons on cardigans (sleeved or sleeveless) left undone. This may be because the buttonholes have stretched and the buttons pop open, or it's an attempt at sprezzatura or in confusion over the waistcoat 'rules'. Or it may be that the cardigan is worn by a genuine sartorialist who has found the best way to wear the garment to make it look as good as possible - read on....

"If there are rules of style they are simply that you should wear clothes in a way that makes both the garment and you, the wearer, look as good as possible"

If there are any rules of style they are simply that you should wear clothes in a way that makes the garment look good and you, the wearer, feel comfortable. There are some ways of wearing clothes that look so bad that it's best to pretend there is a rule preventing them. Ties worn undone and at half mast look sloppy and it would look better to go tieless with collar undone. Wearing brogues without socks is a look has been overdone and is best avoided as it looks too studied. Wearing watches over shirt cuffs is just aping the style of Gianni Agnelli. Doing up the bottom button of a blazer or sports coat is inadvisable simply because doing so will usually spoil the line of the jacket because of its cut. But these are guidelines, not rules.

"The overarching question is not 'What is the rule?' but 'What looks best on you?'"

Good style arises from self confidence, wearing good quality clothes that fit well and, most importantly, not looking as if you've tried too hard. The best way to sprezzatura, the art of looking good without appearing to try, is to find your own style rather than copying slavishly what you see at Pitti Uomo or on Instagram or following irrational rules. 

The overarching question is not 'What is the rule?' but 'What looks best on you?'

[With thanks to Whitfield & Ward, Tailors, for permission to use their image above. This is an unsponsored post.]

Collected Articles on Style for Older Men

Early in the days of the blog (eleven years ago!) I began collecting articles on style for older men. I was looking through these recently and found that, while some are now quite old, they all contain good ideas so I've revived the feature and added some more recent material. If you know more, do let me know.

Older men with different styles - I'm with Svante @theurbanhippieswe

[Updated from the original 2011 feature] Here are a few of the better (and not too serious) newspaper and other articles on style and fashion for middle aged and older men. They are in no particular order; just as I find them. 

The important thing about fashion in middle age and beyond is that we are getting too old to take fashion seriously. Dress for yourself, feel comfortable, and don't listen to the fashion police.

What do I do? I keep an eye on Instagram and the better blogs for ideas, but try to use them to dress to suit my own personality rather than slavishly following transient fashions. Whatever you do, be careful about trying to relive lost youth by dressing like a teenager. It may work, if you have an extremely sophisticated sense of style, but you run the risk of looking a little sad. It's also unnecessary; we should be proud of our maturity - there are many classic styles ideal for the older man.

Photo The Sartorialist

Can you wear Topman at 67?
An interview in the Guardian with Nicky Haslam and his sense of fashion and style.

Old men dress cool
From one of my favourite bloggers, Style Salvage.

Take That:Style Icons for Older Men
An article in the Guardian. Take That!! Must be some mistake, surely?

Groovy Old Men: The Rise of the Silver Swingers
From the Independent, 'nuff said.

Can Middle-Aged Men Have Long Hair? 
From that excellent blogger, That's Not My Age.

Styles Middle-Aged Men Should Avoid If They Don't Want to Look Old: These Fashions Don't Make Anyone Look Young

Yahoo Voices.

Middle Aged-Men Who Dress Like Teenagers
Style Goes Strong

Newbie Fashion Tips for Grown-up Men
Stepcase Lifehack. This may seem a bit proscriptive, but is worth a read - most of the rules are sensible.

The Almost Shocking World of Older Men's Fashion
In a Grand Fashion reviews advice for older men. The article mentions Grey Fox as follows, "While there are many blogs for young, definitely under forty, I could find only one aimed at older, middle age men.  Grey Fox stresses dressing for one’s self instead of  for the latest fashion trend".

Why do men over 50 dress like tramps?
Mail Online. For personal reasons I avoid the Daily Mail. The standard of journalism is appallingly, with damaging and hurtful articles published with no proper research or regard for the truth. However, this is an unusually (for the Mail) sensible analysis and it is recommended reading.

Men stop caring about clothes at 37
Apparently the conclusion of a survey, apparently based on a survey, but I'm a bit suspicious about this one - it may be a dubious publicity stunt. Reported in the the Guardian here. Despite my doubts,  there is probably a degree of accuracy in these reports.

Fashion Tips for the Older Man
From the Belfast Telegraph - some interesting and useful comments about older men dressing well and not so well.

Medallion Man is Back - The Rise and Rise of Middle-Aged Vanity
From the Independent - not too bad, in parts. I agree with the warning that '...dignity is in danger of being jettisoned in the rush to drink at the fountains of eternal youth, or at least the rush to the hair dye kit, which is the next best thing'.

The humble Mamil: why we need 'middle-aged men in Lycra'
The Guardian. A nice defence of the MAMIL (middle-aged men in Lycra) by one of my favourite cycling writers, Matt Seaton.

Why do fathers insist on dressing like their teenage sons?
Which increasingly they seem to do although some sons adopt crisp shirts, chinos and brogues. See the picture which shows Tom Cruise and his son. Sydney Morning Herald.

The Sartorial Geniuses aged 60 plus
From The Telegraph - with wise words from blogger Tony Ton of jakandjil.com.

At the age of 37, you needn't start dressing like J*r*my Cl*rks*n
From The Guardian, a newspaper that I doubt Clarkson has ever read.

Skateboarding Past a Midlife Crisis
From the New York Times. Be careful, though; your bones have become more brittle as you get older.

Jeremy Paxman in tweeds is typical of the affliction that grips men in middle age
Hadley Freeman in the Guardian discusses older men's style. All about men reaching an age where they want to try something new. Some vestiges of truth here; maybe.

Why men over 40 are fashion disasters
From the Mail Online. The writer is mocked by his family for his dress sense. He suggests a few ideas, but this article is rather inconclusive, as I feel he doesn't really find a solution. He should find inspiration for his own style, grasp the nettle and confidently forge his own path. Not a happy outcome to this one.

How to dress well after 50
British GQ. Sensible with some interesting discussion; but nothing new.

Guys don't be a fashion disaster
Chicago Tribune.

Middle-aged men and their sad self-regard
The Independent. Sadly close to the bone; but then all ages are guilty of self-indulgence, not just older men.

Baseball caps, backpacks and an unlimited supply of flannel shirts: How middle-aged Silicon Valley CEOs compete with their twenty-something rivals

From the Mail Online - given that it's the Mail, it's a surprisingly good read (assuming it's not all made up). It reports, for example, how, 'One tech CEO admitted that he probably wouldn't be in his job if he had not shaved his grey hair and swopped brogues for sneakers to blend in.'

Fifty shades of silver fox: Blog celebrating stylish middle-aged men takes internet by storm

From the Mail Online again. About a blog called Grey Fox started by a middle-aged man called David Evans looking for style. Seems unlikely to me!

What's a man to wear when his pecs turn to 'soft peaks'?

Speak for yourself! From The Guardian.

Dressing your age - 40s
Dressing your age - 50s
Posts on the now dormant Fashionbeans - I don't agree with everything here, but basically sensible advice.

Marc Jacobs at 50
Showing that there's hope for us all in changing our lifestyles and getting fit. From Mail Online.

Male celebrities with grey hair
In case you find comfort in the thought that even they are getting older. From sofeminine.co.uk.

I want to feel like a new man
Guardian columnist has a makeover (apparently paid for by Hennessy - some makeover!)

The Vintage Years: is the fashion world starting to respect the middle-aged market?

More about the women's fashion market, but much is applicable to us chaps. From the Guardian.

How I Became a Fashion Don't A lovely response to a Details magazine article. Simon Doonan describes Katherine Wheelock as 'some kind of conservative anti-flamboyance watchdog for the colostomy-bag brigade'. Brilliant.

Dressing Up is a Sign of Vitality New York Times. Ari Seth Cohen, of the Advanced Style Blog, comments on the Wheelock and Doonan articles above.

Why older men are more stylish than young men A nice piece in The Telegraph, October 2014.

Men's style dilemma: Am I too old to wear this? This Telegraph piece makes some good points and concludes, correctly in my view, that the question is, 'Does this suit me?', not, 'Am I too old for this?'

Men become invisible at 39: Now they know how women feel. Again, from The Telegraph. Reports the conclusions of a survey, but then, as the man said, there's lies, damn lies and surveys.

Is it OK for men not to care about fashion?  The Telegraph (I'm impressed how this newspaper writes about age and style so much). Confuses fashion and style, doesn't add much to the discussion.

What makes certain men more stylish? The Telegraph. A thoughtful piece by David Gandy which comes to the same conclusion as I have in my writing. As I say in my comments at the top of this post, style is about dressing to suit your personality, not following trends. Recommended reading.

How to Dress you Age - Forties British GQ. Good, emphasises style rather than fashion and highlights fit.

How to Dress your Age - Fifties British GQ. Good stuff, based on advice not to give up and again emphasising the importance of fit.

How to Dress your Age - Sixties and Beyond British GQ. Based on the inaccurate (I think, anyway) assumption that most men over 60 want to look younger, but this doesn't affect what is essentially good advice.

20 Things No Man over 40 Should Wear Daily Telegraph. I don't like writing that tells a man what he should and shouldn't wear. We may make suggestions and give our opinion, but not presume to tell others what to do. This verges on that approach. However, I agree with much of it!

Tom Hanks is redefining dad style - Not a bad article at all. Some sound advice from US GQ.

How to Dress Your Age - some useful ideas in this Gentleman's Gazette piece.

And see my own scribblings on this blog, for example on middle aged men and jeans.

Real People: Style for Older Men - I Put This On kindly interviewed me on this topic - sound advice (of course ;)).

What not to wear if you are a man over 50: The Guardian March 2019. Some useful thoughts here and much I'm not so sure about. Worth a read.

Dad Style: How to dress well as an older man: I wrote this here on the blog some years ago when 'dad style' was much discussed. Looking back, I'm not sure I like all that I say here, but have a read and complain to the management if you're unimpressed.

Grey Fox Style on Instagram

The 20 Definitive style rules for men over 40: cargo shorts need not apply - this is one of those black and white advice columns that set my teeth on edge - do this, don't do that. You can always tell what they will be like when you read the word 'rules' in the title. There are no rules - there are guidelines. While I confess I do follow some of their 'rules', I don't believe in being so proscriptive.

Dressing the older man: I came across this nicely considered piece in a blog I was unaware of before, Masculine Style. He makes the important point that staying in shape helps. Otherwise there is little you haven't read browsing the selection above, but a nice summary of thoughts for the older man in search of style.

Experience Required: Style Lessons from Men in Their Sixties: (August 2022) I had just about given up looking for decent articles on style for older men when I found this on Mr Porter's site. It makes a nice change actually interviewing stylish older men rather than telling them what they should or shouldn't be wearing. 

Ten Tips on What to Wear for Older Men by ace personal stylist, Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab.

What Are Men Wearing Now? NY Times. A useful style update.

Photo Tommy Ton - GQ

Ralph Lauren Autumn Winter '22: Honouring Roots and British Style

For Autumn/Winter 2022 Ralph Lauren Polo (link below) say they honour their "roots of distinctive details, tradition in textiles, and time-honored tailoring". The two videos below show their collections for men and women. It's interesting to see the strong British influence that underlies the American Ralph Lauren brand: tweeds and cloths from British mills, country life and sports, mountains, rugby football, a classic Land Rover, the Aston Martin, a steaming cup of tea and the heritage of the English country house. 

Ralph Lauren Shetland Tweed Jacket - Abraham Moon & Sons England cloth

Ralph Lauren's preppy and Ivy League looks owe much historically to British styles. Ralph Lauren himself said in an interview with Esquire in 2014, "England has always inspired my style and designs, and my respect for things that have a quality the more they are worn. The British have a true appreciation for heritage and tradition...."

So, the U.S. Ralph Lauren brand oozes British menswear heritage and styles - what British brands do the same? See here for my thoughts on this question: British Style: Is It Time for a Revival?

 

See Ralph Lauren.

Evelyn Waugh: The Comfort and Style of a Tweed Suit

The Italian word 'sprezzatura' perfectly describes that rather dishevelled but Oh-so-English look of a well-used tweed suit, as worn with such aplomb by so many men in the early half of the twentieth century. I came across the image below of author Evelyn Waugh which perfectly illustrates that casual, crumpled and unselfconscious English style. How can we emulate that comfortable tweedy appearance today?

Evelyn Waugh by Mark Gerson 1963

Waugh's suit appears to be a heavyweight tweed (they would normally have been fairly robust cloth in those days) in a shepherd check. As is normal with a well-worn-in tweed, it looks as comfortable as an old jumper and pair of jeans might be to us today. Men were used to wearing tailoring in those days, and Waugh would have thought nothing of throwing himself down on the sofa for a post-prandial nap fully clothed in his three-piece.

It's this slightly disordered but so natural and unforced look, the result of wearing a suit day in and day out, that's often admired in the English (or more strictly British) man of that era. Sadly today's man has largely abandoned tailoring in favour of casual wear or that mix of leisure and sports wear, 'athleisure', that, while possibly easy to wear, lacks elegance or style. 

The art of wearing tailoring for relaxation has been lost and today it's felt that sloppy and shapeless is necessary for easy wear. Evelyn Waugh shows us that this is a mistaken view. Tweed is a casual cloth, designed originally for easy movement outdoors, retaining its shape and protecting the wearer from the elements. A good quality cloth is soft, robust and lightweight, moulding readily to the body. Its forgiving nature means that it doesn't need to be treated with care, like a flannel business suit. 

Worn well the tweed suit combines effortless style with comfort. Let's buy more tweed suits (I suggest some sources of new and vintage tweeds below).

Waugh wears a houndstooth check tweed suit with a jaunty buttonhole

Vintage Tweed Suits

If you like your tweed suit traditional and heavy duty, try a vintage example. I bought a Harris tweed suit that must have been over 60 years old some years ago. The tweed was very heavy and you will find this is common with older suits. After some alterations it fitted well, but was too warm for indoor wear. 

If you buy online check with the seller for moth holes, torn linings and a general smell of damp, age or mothballs. And of course you should ask for detailed measurements, comparing them to a suit that you know fits. Aim for minimal alterations as too great a change to size isn't always successful.

Here are a few links - you may find more:

Hornets Vintage

Savvy Row

Fogey Unlimited

New Tweed Suits

Any tailor will be delighted to make a tweed suit - whether made to measure of fully bespoke will depend on your budget and preferences. Ready to wear (RTW) is the affordable option and most stores and tailors will alter a suit to fit as well as possible. 

Here are a few suggested links - there are many more out there and I've confined myself to a few stores and tailors I know or have experience of:

Dege & Skinner for the full bespoke Savile Row experience and a suit that will fit to perfection.

Susannah Hall - British made suits.

Cordings of Piccadilly - their affordable RTW suits are made of the best tweed. They fit me perfectly, but they will alter for you if needed.

Campbell's of Beauly - in Scotland near Inverness: a tweed heaven offering RTW and bespoke tailoring. They specialise in estate tweeds. This is a topic on its own, but many Scottish sporting estates have since Victorian times developed their own tweeds, the colours and patterns reflecting the colours of their local rock, heather, water and skies.

David Hockney's Yellow Crocs And Why is Menswear So Boring?

The recent sight of David Hockney wearing yellow Crocs at an Order of Merit meeting at Buckingham Palace caused a stir in the Press. Crocs - in front of His Majesty! 

As a man of style, King Charles took it all in his stride of course, commenting, "Your yellow galoshes! Beautifully chosen." But how significant is it that such a striking choice of footwear should make such an impact? Is it because many of us are now wearing menswear that is dingy, dark and dull; that we aren't used to seeing displays of sartorial sassiness in men? 

How often does what we wear reflect our personalities rather than simply an acquired look or trend?

Light in the gloom.
Hockney's Crocs (and the women) light up a monochrome OM luncheon meeting.

The above image of those attending the Order of Merit luncheon shows how men's formal business wear is traditionally dark: black or dark blues predominate. This is nothing new. Since the early nineteenth century most men have avoided colour and bright pattern, a trend marked by Beau Brummell's choice of plain and sober clothing. Victorian men adopted darker hues to emphasise their serious, god-fearing and industrious approach to life.

This continued into the twentieth century and, while the sixties signalled as temporary shift to colour and pattern for the young in particular, we seem to have returned to a period when both young and old prefer darker clothing, whether for formal or casual wear. Look at any high street, where drab hoodies, quilted coats and jeans predominate. Maybe this is a reflection of the times. Do we feel that here isn't much to be cheerful about in the world at the moment and does this reflect in our sober choices of clothing? 

Hockney's outfit at the OM luncheon is a welcome change. He has chosen to dress in a way that is comfortable and still reflects his character and interests. We may not all approve of the yellow Crocs, but the lighter coloured check tweed suit is a style that we could all adopt. Try patterned tweeds, bright knitwear, trousers in brighter hues, bold striped shirts and pastel contrasting socks to move away from this monochrome madness.

From Formal to Casual With Denim & Chambray Shirts

The suit has had a hard time over the two or three years, with many forecasting its demise. My own view (link below) is that the suit survives, albeit in a modified form and here setbacks provide opportunities. Select the right shirt and you can change a suit's look to make it more versatile, as I show  you here.

I'm grateful to Thomas Pink shirts for sending me a denim and a chambray shirt to illustrate this feature. 

Thomas Pink denim shirt

Same suit; different looks. Chambray and denim shirts from Thomas Pink

While the formal business suit is undoubtedly on the wane, suits with a more comfortable cut and cloth can be worn either formally or casually, as the opportunity demands. Take a tweed or Prince of Wales check suit: worn with smart oxford shoes, a crisp white shirt and madder silk tie it can be worn to a formal or work meeting, but wear it with loafers, a denim or chambray shirt, cravat or neckerchief and it becomes a comfortable option for a  more casual look.

Denim and chambray reduce the formality of tailoring because they are both cloths with roots in workwear. Such shirts look more comfortable than a crisp business shirt made from a fine poplin, oxford or Sea Island cotton. As they age they soften and take on a patina of wear at the collar, seams and folds. A slight fraying at the edges adds to this comfortable look and is a godsend for those aiming to exude an air of sprezzatura*. 

Denim or Chambray?

Denim and chambray are woven from two different coloured yarns, usually indigo and white, giving them their characteristic slubby appearance. They are woven differently: denim tends to be thicker than chambray and has a different appearance on each side of the cloth, while chambray looks the same each side. Denim tends to fade much more markedly and this makes it the more casual looking of the two, particularly with its association with workwear since the nineteenth century and earlier. Due to its lighter weight and breathability, chambray is better for warmer weather.

*Sprezzatura: 'Studied carelessness'.

The shirts used in this post were from Thomas Pink

Book Review: The Rebel's Wardrobe pub. by Gestalten

To while away the long winter nights, I recommend reading The Rebel’s Wardrobe: The Untold Story of Menswear’s Renegade Past (published by Gestalten 2022). The book explores many items of menswear, their origins and the men, famous and not, who wore them before they became popular daily wear.

From the white t-shirt and workwear through flying jackets to the Aran sweater, safari jackets, denim and trench coats, hats and footwear, it takes a fascinating look at selected items of mens's clothing that started out as radical signs of rebellion only to become mainstream. 

The book is informative rather than merely descriptive and covers men and their clothing from both sides of the Atlantic. It's well presented with a good balance of images to text. There are one or two very minor errors: an image of a father showing his son how to lace up 'work boots' is actually lacing and blancoing canvas cricket boots and I haven't seen the spelling 'mack' for a 'mac' or mackintosh coat before - but these are very rare and don't take away from a readable and interesting look at menswear's heritage.

Highly recommended for any enthusiast of menswear and its history and context. For more information and to buy the book go to Gestalten.

All images: Illustration Florian Bayer, The Rebel's Wardrobe, gestalten 2022

Grey Fox x Cordings of Piccadilly - A Collaboration

It's an absolute delight for me to announce a collaboration with classic British brand, Cordings of Piccadilly. They are everything I love about British menswear. They've  been around since 1839 and have remained true to their solid, practical, quality British heritage (see links below).

Wearing the Cordings x Grey Fox cord suit and wool check tie

I've written before about British style and its influence on western menswear. From preppy American and Ivy League to contemporary Japanese street style, staples like tweed, corduroy suits, polo and covert coats and outdoor and country sportswear have become classics of style and fashion. Cordings' longstanding place in the heritage of British men's style makes it a great privilege to work with them to put together this small largely British-made collection.

The collection is designed to be the start of a capsule wardrobe. By this I mean that every can be paired with the others. Rich reds and natural green runs through the palette, with the textures of corduroy, brushed Shetland knits and earthy Loden holding it together and providing contrast and variety. 

The collection comprises five pieces:

• Two Shetland jumpers in a rich red and a mossy green (crew and V-neck respectively), made in Scotland. I was keen to have the wool lightly brushed as a nod to the heritage of Scottish knitwear (the jumpers are brushed using the dried spiky seed heads of the teasel plant). I also wanted to recall the popularity of brushed Shetland ('Shaggy Shetlands') as icons of preppy and Ivy League styles.
• A check wool tie. This is inspired by a vintage tie which I own, made in Scotland in the 1950s.
• A brown corduroy suit. This is based on one made for me by Cordings a few years ago and which proved very popular when I showed it on Instagram. My suit was made from Italian cord but I'm delighted to say that the collaboration suit is made from a similar corduroy made in England some years ago and found in the archives of Brisbane Moss. Like all Cordings' suits, it's tailored to a high standard but at an affordable price.
• A Loden 'Coldstream' coat. Based loosely on the double breasted coats worn by the five British Foot Guards regiments during the colder months, it's made in London from a gorgeous mix of alpaca and wool. The buttons are real buffalo horn. The luxury cloth means that it isn't heavy and the coat is comfortable and warm to wear during the colder months.

For more on these items, how we came to design them, their costs and how to buy, go to Cordings x Grey Fox

Follow me on Instagram to see more @greyfoxstyle

More about this collaboration: This is a sponsored collaboration with Cordings of Piccadilly. For me, collaborations are like buses; you wait ages and then they all arrive together. This collaboration is the second since the blog was founded nearly eleven years ago and I have a third coming soon (the first was launched last month here). I've long wanted to apply my tastes to a real collection. After so long curating Grey Fox I have a fair idea what I like and, more importantly, what you like. I welcome any comments and feedback - you can message or e-mail me from my Instagram account (above).

Dress Codes: What is Cocktail Attire?

Over the last few years the party dress codes of 'black tie', 'lounge suit' or 'smart casual' have been joined by 'cocktail attire'. If you Google the term you'll find that it's interpreted very widely. I've seen features on cocktail attire illustrated with everything from black tie, through lounge suits to smart casual, showing how unclear the code is. Here is my own interpretation of the dress code.

"...a code that allows for sophisticated creativity while remaining essentially formal"

The answer to the question 'what is cocktail attire?' is to see what isn't covered by the common existing dress codes, namely black tie, lounge suit, smart casual and casual. Cocktail comes just under black tie in terms of formality, is more creative than lounge suit and more dapper than smart casual. 

Ideas for Cocktail Attire Dress Code for Summer and Winter

A sophisticated look

With cocktail attire you're looking for a sophisticated look; nothing scruffy. Essential elements are: sharp tailoring, crisp shirt or thin knitted roll neck or other fine cashmere and good quality shoes (loafers, monks, oxfords - black or dark brown). 

For jackets; velvet is very dapper (perhaps as a smoking jacket), corduroy might work as a midnight blue well-tailored jacket worn with a crisp white shirt and knitted burgundy silk tie. A blazer is central to many a cocktail outfit and would work well with a tailored denim shirt.

I might wear a tie - although a well-cut shirt with collar undone with a jacket will work as long as the effect isn't too casual. I'd avoid bow ties.

Trousers are best tailored and may be dark-coloured, tartan, check or be borrowed from your evening suit; lighter colours would suit a summer cocktail party. Turn-ups (cuffs) are generally considered too informal for black tie evening suits but I'd happily wear them as part of cocktail attire.

No jeans, no trainers, no chunky country shoes and certainly no ties at half mast: either wear one properly or not at all. I'd personally avoid tweeds or tan shoes; these are just too country or daywear for a semi-formal look, but they could work for some if dapper enough. 

Colour

Cocktail allows creativity. Experiment with colour, remembering that the key is sophisticated formality. If you wear a dark suit, spice it up with a silk waistcoat or coloured shirt. Avoid overall black; cocktail is about celebration and you have the freedom to move away from monochrome. Rich midnight blues, velvet bottle greens and soft ochres give a sophisticated edge that bright primary colours lack, although these may suit a summer event.

In general too busy a pattern may lack the sophistication needed for cocktail, having said that I include a Fair Isle V-neck paired with a tie and a Bode short sleeved shirt for a summer event in the images here, so see what you think. Almost anything by way of a sophisticated patterned shirt or fine jersey will do when paired with crisp tailoring and good quality footwear.

Accessories

A smart vintage watch (leave the chunky diver or pilot's chronograph at home), cufflinks, pocket square, a discreet boutonnière, minimalist silk tie and perhaps a silk evening scarf will all add to the overall impression.

In summary: for 'Cocktail Attire' don't get too formal by straying into black tie but conversely don't stray too far into untailored casual wear.