Recreating the look - Steve McQueen, Prince of Wales check and denim

I often feel a bit uncomfortable putting together these occasional Recreating the Look posts as it is never just the clothes that make men look stylish. It takes natural self-confidence and a lack of self-consciousness to make clothes sit well a man's shoulders.

So, with the usual caveats, I bring you a recreation of Steve McQueen's style. Here he wears a soft-shouldered Prince of Wales check jacket (he would have called it Glen check) and a denim shirt. It's hard to find that creamy shade of PoW check (rather than the harsher black and white) - if you find a better alternative, let me know - vintage might be the way to go to find a perfect match. The Hentsch Man Friday shirt is a beautiful soft denim. For suppliers see below. For more Recreating the Look posts click here.

Jacket Paul Smith from Mr Porter, shirt Hentsch Man, for a white T-shirt, try Sunspel or M&S.

A Coming of Age - Simon Frederick, photographer

At Best of Britannia I met Simon Frederick, photographer. I noticed that he'd shot a series called A Coming of Age, a comment on a man's view of age, shown here. Simon described the series to me -

A man arrives to the age of 50 and looks back at his own reflection. He reflects upon the people he has admired, the ones he would have liked to have been and on his own growth and mortality.

All images (C) Simon Frederick, photographer

He also kindly photographed me and I show that portrait below.

Marks & Spencer Best of British - Grey Fox tries it out

Earlier this week I posted an article on The Guardian Fashion Blogs Network in which I was photographed wearing M&S's Best of British collection. When I first approached them with the idea, M&S had little idea how I would use the images or what I would say. But they agreed without seeking reassurances. They provided clothes, location, photographer and even a stylist - and it was a bit of fun.

Images Marks & Spencer. Images of Grey Fox by Keir Harris

Regulars here will know that one of my themes is the failure of the fashion industry to use older models in marketing campaigns. Although M&S are an exception (think of Twiggy and the recent campaign which included Dame Helen Mirren, Tracy Emin and others) they chose to use a young model (Oliver Cheshire) to sell Best of British. I felt that such a high quality, classic yet modern, collection should be tried on an older man. I'd like to thank the superb photographer, Keir Harris, who did much to put me at ease and took such excellent images.

For Grey Fox's first impressions of M&S Best of British, click here.
For more on the Best of British collection for men and women on the M&S website, click here.

Holland Esquire - tweeds and menswear with a twist

I recently had my first proper look at the work of Nick Holland of Holland Esquire, a tailors marketing exquisite menswear. The tailoring is characterised by a strict attention to detail and a slightly dandy edge (slight; nothing too alarming). The designs feature hand-stitching, modern tweeds and fabrics, hand-crafted themed buttons and bright limited-edition contrasting jacket linings. There are various stockists of Nick's work and the whole collection is available online here.

Now Holland Esquire can be found in a pop up shop at Cube in London's Lambs Conduit Street. This is one of the best streets for specialist menswear shops in London and there is much to see to justify the journey. A visit will be further enlivened by the accompanying exhibition, “Here are a few of my favourite things”. This is a part of Nick Holland’s vast collection of wonderful rare objects, some of which are pictured here, which mirror themes found in the menswear collection.

The pop up is at Cube, 47 Lambs Conduit Street - see the map here.

Clarks - Art of Craft video 3 - the shoemaker and the bookbinder

This, the third of the Clarks Shoes series, compares the skills of the shoemaker and the bookbinder.

Smart Turnout - smartly turned out clothes and accessories with a twist

Smart Turnout was founded originally by a retired British Army officer and this shows in the their product range, which is strongly reminiscent of a school or regimental outfitters.

And I don't mean that in a derogatory way. Last year I returned to my old school and a visit to the school outfitters was a highlight, selling everything from blazers, cricket sweaters and house ties through to cufflinks, football boots and house sports jerseys. There's a distinct style here, which is very British, yet stylishly sporting.

Smart Turnout's origins are obvious in the school and regimental colours that from the basis of much of the range of everything from cricket sweaters (made in England), shirts, bow ties and backpacks to nylon military-style watch straps. But much of this is presented with a modern and stylish twist.

Visit the Smart Turnout shop in Princes Arcade off Piccadilly in London or their new store at St Pancras. 

Dashing Tweeds being woven - a video

Please visit The Guardian Fashion Blogs Network, where I've written about The tweed revolution: from the countryside to the catwalk.

Meanwhile, enjoy this video from Dashing Tweeds, one of the companies featured in my blog post.

Grenson Shoe Lab opens in Liberty of London - shoes made in the UK

English shoemaker, Grenson will be bringing their "Grenson Lab" exclusively to Liberty from 15th October to the 3rd November. Visit the Lab in the Men's shoe department and you can choose your own shoe and have it made for you with your own choice of colours and soles.

Your shoes will be handmade entirely in the Grenson factory in the UK and you can even have your own name or a message handwritten on the lining. Prices start from £380 and your shoes will take approximately fourteen weeks to make. See Grenson Shoes for more information on the range.

Sir Plus interview - clothes made from cabbage

Sir Plus make clothes from cabbage. The company's founder, Henry Hales, explained to me that this is the term used in the industry for the excess fabric left over after garments are made. So it was that he made me a waistcoat from cabbage and, a few weeks later, I went to meet him and to talk to him about his venture.

GF: Tell us about Sir Plus.

HH: Sir Plus is a quirky clothing brand that makes exceptional garments, here in England, using off-cuts and surplus fabrics (cabbage!)

GF: How did you get started?

HH: I started by buying a few metres of shirting fabric, to make into boxer shorts and sell at markets. The range has grown from boxers to many other items including waistcoats, jumpers, T-shirts and a number of accessories. I now attend shows and fairs all over the country and sell increasingly more on my website.

GF: How would you like to see the business develop?

HH: I'm really happy with the way things are going, slowly and sustainably, or "organically" to use the buzzword! I'd like to increase the product range by adding a few more pieces where I think there's room for improvement. I see my main market as online, whilst attending shows, festivals and fairs to demonstrate the products and spread the word. 

I'm not over concerned about taking on premises, for Sir Plus is online. I'd like to take on two more employees in 2014, as at the moment our small team has their work cut out! In time, Sir Plus will be known for stylish, well designed luxury clothing, with a sense of humour!

GF: How important is the British-made and designed aspect of the product to you?

HH: It's important to me and the brand, but also very practical. Making things here in the UK, enables me to be in the factory at the drop of a hat, The quantities are lower and the quality is outstanding. At the moment, most of my fabrics are sourced here as well. It's also rewarding to contribute to our economy and more eco to make in the UK!

GF: Who and where are your main markets? How would you like to see these develop?

HH: My main markets are threefold:

1. Men with style who appreciate good quality clothing and choose to treat themselves.
2. Sir Plus items make great gifts, so in the build up to Christmas, I sell lots of items to people buying presents. The jumpers with elbow patches and the boxer shorts were particularly popular last year. I'm making Nehru style waistcoats and more jerkins, which I'm really excited about – I think they’re going to be big this year! 
3. Many of the waistcoat sales are for weddings, or special events. I rank highly for double-breasted linen waistcoat on Google, so near Ascot I had a huge surge in sales, which was encouraging.

GF: What have been the particular challenges?

HH: Up until recently (apart from in the build up to Christmas, when I needed help) I was doing everything myself, from designing, to sourcing to dispatching, customer services, website maintenance and social media, etc. There weren't enough hours in the day and it was hard to switch off!

I'm no longer working from home, but when I was storing all of my boxers and waistcoats posed a bit of an issue. It’s fair to say my bedroom was a walk in wardrobe!

GF: What inspires you in driving the business?

HH: My Dad was a huge inspiration. He tried lots of things out, lived a great life and always had a tale to tell. When something rubbish happens in the business, I always think of him telling it as a story round the table.

Prince Charles is embarrassed to admit that he didn't buy his boxers from Sir Plus
(Image Daily Mail)

GF: What are you favourite moments in running the business?

HH: Cara Delevigne bought a pair of boxers from our pop up last year, every time I receive an international order I get excited, I enjoy meeting my customers and getting feedback. I bought a van this year and the maiden voyage gave me a lot of satisfaction. Hopefully it’s going to be extremely helpful for trading, as I’ll no longer have to squeeze everything into my car.

GF: How would you describe your personal style?

HH: A bit eccentric and occasionally over the top, my style has a British theme, but I like to wear something that sticks out a bit. Why be boring? Quality is important.

GF: One final thought?

HH: I'm just gearing up for the markets at the moment, I’ll be hitting Portobello and the others with a bang - do come visit! Follow me on Facebook or Twitter to find out where I’ll be!

Sir Plus Clothing online

Sir Plus on Facebook

Sir Plus on Twitter

Benson & Clegg and their beautiful buttons

When I first saw the website of Benson & Clegg, bespoke tailors in London's Piccadilly Arcade, I was struck by the large selection of buttons available. Made for blazers in particular, they usually stock some 150 different varieties representing some of Britain's most prestigious military and academic institutions, as well as a large range of historical and decorative designs. 

Benson & Clegg's stand at the Coronation Festival this year at Buckingham Palace 

Made from a variety of different metals, they are either engraved or made as a 3-D design, for which a die is made. Often called brass buttons, they are now rarely made from that metal, which tarnishes quickly. They can be gilt or plated metals, silver or bronze. Many finishes are available.

I love the traditional nature of these buttons and am planning to buy some for a blazer being made for me at the moment. B&C are often commissioned to design and make buttons for individuals, families, clubs and commercial organisations. See Benson & Clegg's website here and my earlier post on owner and Master Tailor, Ken Austin, here.

Some of the different types of button supplied by Benson & Clegg - Grey Fox image 

The die, soft lead impression and final product - Benson & Clegg's Jubilee Button - Grey Fox image 

Benson & Clegg buttons - Grey Fox image 

Benson & Clegg buttons designed for a golf club - Grey Fox image 

Surely not a Grey Fox button....? 

Charlie Watts wears Prince of Wales check

I love this image of Charlie Watts looking totally relaxed in a Prince of Wales check double-breasted suit - if this isn't encouragement to the older man to smarten up, I don't know what is.

Cufflinks from The Justified Sinner

I came across these cuff links on Twitter and was so impressed I contacted the jeweller, Dauvit Alexander of The Justified Sinner and asked if I could feature them on Grey Fox.

They're made from old corroded nuts, washers, coins, clay and other objets trouvés. A bit different, they bring character and colour to a formal shirt. See The Justified Sinner for more information.

Healthy Back Bags

The problem with blogging is that I have to go everywhere with notebook, camera, phone and assorted other items (including, soon, I hope, an iPad Mini). I used to hang a bag over one shoulder, but found this caused shoulder problems, so, at the recommendation of a Grey Fox reader, I've been trying a bag from Healthy Back Bags. 

This is designed to distribute weight asymmetrically, being a unique tear-drop shape, specifically designed to contour to the spine and so reduce the stress on neck and shoulders. They come in many different colours and fabrics. Naturally, I chose one in Donegal tweed. This has turned out to be hard-wearing, stylish, packed with pockets that help organise the contents and spread weight around the bag sensibly. It can be worn four ways; on either shoulder or across the body.

I've found it very comfortable and have had no more shoulder problems while using it. Have a look at the whole HBB range, which is available to buy online at www.thehealthybackbag.co.uk

The tweed for the bag came from Studio Donegal.

HBB provided Grey Fox with the bag used in this review.

Grey Fox's Hunter's tweed suit by Susannah Hall, Tailors

Well, here's the (almost) final result. I've never felt so comfortable in a suit; in fact, after a tiring day at Best of Britannia, I felt no need to take it off and change into jeans as I crashed on the sofa afterwards (sorry Susannah, it came to no harm). I recommend the bespoke/ made-to-measure route to anyone.

This has been a significant step in my search for style and I've enjoyed every minute of it. I've loved being a client of Susannah Hall's and have asked her to make me a blazer - that will be another story.

I'm grateful to Susannah Hall, Tailors, for making the suit, to Hunter's Tweed from whom I obtained the tweed and to Heather Amos, photographer, for taking these shots at Best of Britannia, .

Photography - Heather Amos

In which Hackett and Cooper Bikes collaborate and Grey Fox has a good time

Recently Grey Fox went to a jolly event in Fulham at which Hackett and Cooper Bikes celebrated the launch of a collaborative range of bikes. There is a lovely traditional touring bike and a single-speed - both constructed from the legendary Reynolds 531 steel tubing and with Brooks saddles and lovely retro touches. Two commuter bikes with internal hub gears complete the line-up.

The day was a good introduction to the bikes, with various competitions including a time trial (won by yours truly), a bike polo match and a styling competition (most definitely not won by yours truly). I loved the touring and single speed bikes, which are well set-up for their respective purposes and look good enough for the gentleman of style who likes to work up the odd sweat for the good of his health.

For more information see Cooper Bikes website and Hackett London.

The Cooper/Hackett single-speed bike - beautifully chromed Reynolds 531 tubing

The Cooper/Hackett touring bike - traditional Cooper green enamelled Reynolds 531 tubed frame

Grey Fox losing the styling competition

Jeremy Hackett and one of his lovely Sussex spaniels

Hackett launches 'The Prince of Wales Check Collection'

I love Prince of Wales check, so was delighted to see that Hackett has designed a new collection to raise money for youth charity, The Prince’s Trust. The collaboration, ‘The Prince of Wales Check Collection’, has used an exclusive version of the grey check/blue over-check Prince of Wales cloth in a range of garments and accessories to be launched this week.

At least £100,000 will be donated from sales of the products by Hackett to The Prince’s Trust to help disadvantaged young people into work, education or training. The Prince’s Trust was set up by HRH The Prince of Wales in 1976. The Trust’s logo, incorporating The Prince of Wales’ feathers, will appear on specially designed labels.

The collection includes suits, jackets and accessories such as ties, scarves, bags, an umbrella and even a blanket. The cloth comes from the UK’s leading mills such as Fox Brothers, Lovat and William Halstead. 

First worn by Edward VII, when he was Prince of Wales, the check (known in the US as glen check, from Glen Urquhart) became internationally famous thanks to The Duke of Windsor, whose sartorial taste has influenced men’s fashion to this day. 'The Prince of Wales Check Collection' is available in all Hackett stores and online at Hackett's website.

For more on Prince of Wales check on Grey Fox Blog, click here.

Further information about The Prince’s Trust is available here.