A look that inspires: David Niven, single-breasted with peak lapels

In this image, David Niven wears a single-breasted Prince of Wales check suit with peak lapels - a look not uncommon during the middle decades of the last century. Nowadays we more commonly find peak lapels on double-breasted coats. Notch lapels (where the peaks of each lapel are roughly even in length) generally look more balanced on a single-breasted jacket. 

However, the look is being revived. I saw several examples at the Savile Row London Collections: Men event at Lord's last year. In the lower image, taken at that event, the man in the right wears a grey single-breasted suit with peak lapels. Skilfully done, the look can work well - it certainly suited Mr Niven.

My Hammond & Co. of Debenhams Prince of Wales check suit

Shortly after I wrote in an earlier post about Patrick Grant for Debenhams Hammond & Co collection I was able to obtain one of my favourites, a double-breasted Prince of Wales check suit made from cloth from Alfred Brown (Worsted Mills) Ltd in Leeds, Yorkshire. 

I'm always a bit nervous about obtaining clothes online, as sizes, quality and cut vary so much from brand to brand. Luckily the suit fitted well and extra length in the legs enabled me to have turn-ups. 

Go on, smile Grey Fox!

The mobile phone image above (taken at the launch of Debenhams' excellent new menswear floor) isn't the best, but the soft cloth and slim-ish cut combine to make a suit in which I feel very comfortable. I've worn it a lot and it has shown no signs of permanently creasing, bagging, going shiny or losing its shape - hooray for British cloth. To my amazement, after a few weeks ownership, I found that the cuff buttons undo - not something often found on suits of this price (see below).

Patrick Grant has created a winner for Debenhams, who tell me that Hammond & Co sales have exceeded their expectations. This isn't surprising, Grant's eye for detail, genuine enthusiasm for the brand and his own undoubted style make him an ideal designer/ambassador for the collection. Look out for him wearing suits from the range in the new BBC series of The Great British Sewing Bee early next year (and see the image below in which, dammit, he looks a lot better than I do in the same suit).

The suit price? £299 - not a misprint. Get yours before they sell out. See web links below for information.

My previous review of Hammond & Co can be found here.

Debenhams, Hammond & Co online here.

Alfred Brown Worsted Mills, Leeds - website here.

Many thanks to Debenhams for providing this suit for review.

Charlie Watts wears Prince of Wales check

I love this image of Charlie Watts looking totally relaxed in a Prince of Wales check double-breasted suit - if this isn't encouragement to the older man to smarten up, I don't know what is.

Hackett launches 'The Prince of Wales Check Collection'

I love Prince of Wales check, so was delighted to see that Hackett has designed a new collection to raise money for youth charity, The Prince’s Trust. The collaboration, ‘The Prince of Wales Check Collection’, has used an exclusive version of the grey check/blue over-check Prince of Wales cloth in a range of garments and accessories to be launched this week.

At least £100,000 will be donated from sales of the products by Hackett to The Prince’s Trust to help disadvantaged young people into work, education or training. The Prince’s Trust was set up by HRH The Prince of Wales in 1976. The Trust’s logo, incorporating The Prince of Wales’ feathers, will appear on specially designed labels.

The collection includes suits, jackets and accessories such as ties, scarves, bags, an umbrella and even a blanket. The cloth comes from the UK’s leading mills such as Fox Brothers, Lovat and William Halstead. 

First worn by Edward VII, when he was Prince of Wales, the check (known in the US as glen check, from Glen Urquhart) became internationally famous thanks to The Duke of Windsor, whose sartorial taste has influenced men’s fashion to this day. 'The Prince of Wales Check Collection' is available in all Hackett stores and online at Hackett's website.

For more on Prince of Wales check on Grey Fox Blog, click here.

Further information about The Prince’s Trust is available here.

Prince of Wales check

Since I've been old to enough to wear a suit, I've wanted one in Prince of Wales check. I think I saw a feature on PoW suits in an ancient edition of Vogue, in those far-off days when it had occasional Men in Vogue features. I had one made for me at Austin Reed some years ago, but it didn't hit the spot and I was disappointed with the quality of the tailoring. One day I'll try again.

Recently Patrick Malahide's appearance in Hunted revived my enthusiasm. What better suit for a strong-willed man wanting to make an impact?

Image IMBd photos

What I like about it is that it strikes a good balance between formal and informal. It doesn't have the formality of pinstripes, but can be worn at a business meeting where a Harris tweed suit would be out of place. On the other hand it also has an informal side, and would not be out of place as 'smart casual  in a room full of blazers or tweed suits. 

The name originated from Edward VII, who adopted a plaid worn on the Seafield estate in Glen Urquhart when he was Prince of Wales, in the early 1900s. It was taken up later by other Princes of Wales, both Edward VIII, who was Prince of Wales before he became Duke of Windsor on his abdication, and the present Charles, Prince of Wales.

Recreating the look today.

Image Anderson and Sheppard

Images below Richard James Prince of Wales check suit at Mr Porter

Patrick Malahide and his Prince of Wales check suit

I'll be writing more about Prince of Wales check suits soon, but I had to show this image of Patrick Malahide in Hunted. More grey wolf than grey fox, he wore this suit with such assurance - he could have been wearing a pair of jeans. Not everyone can do that, although it comes with practice.

I'd have fastened the bottom button. Undone, it gives an unbalanced look. But I wouldn't dare tell him.

Doesn't it make you want to go out and be measured up immediately?

Image Spoiler TV