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Grey Fox

A mature search for style. Fashion and menswear for all men.

Showing posts from category: Recreating the Look

Recreating the look: The Twentieth Century Explorer

Wednesday, 30 December 2015

I said I'd be taking time off from the blog over Christmas and New Year but, as I was leafing through images of exploration from the last century, I couldn't resist putting this one together for you.

Near my seat in the chapel at school was a plaque commemorating an old boy, Andrew 'Sandy' Irvine, who disappeared alongside George Mallory during their attempt to climb Everest in 1924. 

Irvine (left) with Mallory

Whether they reached the summit is unknown, but their courage lives on. Other famous men such as Shackleton, Scott, Hillary and those who went with them on their expeditions throughout the last century stare out at us here from gritty images recording their skill and determination.


Their look has influenced twenty first century man. Walk around the trendier areas of our cities and you'll see men dressed for arctic exploration. Massive beards, heavy brushed cotton tartan (plaid) shirts, down jackets, chunky boots and wool hats are de rigueur in many a coffee shop.

Behind the magnificent facial hair, worn so ironically by today's hipster, is an unconscious desire to display the unruffled cool of the nineteenth and twentieth century explorer, for whom bravery, team effort and success were all important. There's also a love for the traditional clothing of early explorers which was based on the clothes worn by outdoor workers such as sailors, fishermen and hunters.


These early twentieth century adventurers wore clothes which were barely adequate as protection against the elements in comparison with modern expedition wear. I spend much time on the fells of Cumbria and, when tackling a challenging walk in poor weather, wear modern walking gear. Proper wind and rain proofing, adequate insulation and light weight are essentials in extreme conditions. However, when things are less severe, I prefer to wear the wool jumpers, tweed, waxed cloths and Ventile jackets of the early explorer. Breathable, quiet, sober and stylish.

On the fells. I'm wearing vintage Norwegian jumper, Clarke's Craghoppers tweed breeches & Tootal scarf. Bag Millican.

I find natural materials more comfortable and low key than the noisy, harshly coloured, sweaty fabrics of modern climbing wear. So, where can you find the explorer look? Here are some ideas.

Shirt: Portuguese Flannel, scarf: Fraser Knitwear, Tweed jacket: Gloverall (details below)

Clockwise from top left: Tom Smarte hat, Po-Zu Sequoia boots, Gloverall tweed jacket & Fraser Fair Isle scarf,
Private White VC Lowry reversible mac, Cordings rubberised cotton mac (details below)

From top left: Shackleton Clothing Co Norwegian sweater, Crystal Knitwear submariner's roll neck jumper,
Leith Shetland jumper (details below)

Clockwise from top left: Shackleton x Cheaney Boss boots, Shackleton 'Tom Crean' beanie, English Utopia
tweed shooting coat, Tombags duffel bag (details below)

Clockwise from top left: Antarctic parka Nigel Cabourn, Classic Alpine Smock from Lancashire Pike Clothing,
vintage wooden ice axe eBay (details below)

From left: Chocolate corduroy trousers from Spoke, Fair Isle beanie from K-Knit, Mallory jacket from Nigel Cabourn

Bespoke hand-made Fair Isle sweater from Mati Ventrillon, Shetland Islands

Suppliers: (please mention Grey Fox Blog when contacting suppliers)
Tom Smarte Hats
Po-Zu ethical and sustainable footwear
Gloverall
Fraser Knitwear
Private White VC
Cordings
Shackleton Clothing
Crystal Knitwear
Leith Clothing
English Utopia
Tombag
Nigel Cabourn
Lancashire Pike Clothing
Spoke London Trousers
K-Knit knitwear
Mati Ventrillon (note that at the time of writing her order book for bespoke Fair Isle sweaters is closed due to volume of orders, try also Shetland Collection)
Millican bags
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Labels: exploration, Recreating the Look

Recreating the look - Steve McQueen in Bullitt

Wednesday, 23 December 2015

I love putting together my Recreating the Look series so don't know why I haven't added to it for a while. I make no apologies for using the great Steve McQueen again as a basis a revived menswear look; here from Bullitt of course.



As ever with McQueen, it wasn't so much what he wore as how he wore it. Total self-confidence and a complete lack of self-consciousness make his clothes meld around him. Nothing here is other than classic and plain in style - always the safest way to go. 

The original jacket was brown herringbone tweed and the roll neck a navy blue. So how can you recreate this look now? Here are some suggestions. Do let me know what you think.



Raincoat: Gloverall men's bonded cotton car coat
Tweed jacket: House of Fraser, brown herringbone Howick Crandall jacket. The original had elbow patches - easy to get sewn on
Roll neck: Johnstons of Elgin 2-ply cashmere classic roll neck in navy blue
Trousers: M&S wool blend slim-fit Donegal flat front
Sanders hi-top boots: snuff suede
Socks: Pantherella Oakdale charcoal merino
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Labels: Recreating the Look, Steve McQueen

Recreating the look - Steve McQueen relaxes in a camel jumper

Saturday, 21 February 2015

The blogger's standby for style posts of this sort is Steve McQueen. His clothes are never complicated and he always looks stylish and relaxed. This is his secret, of course. Achieve a simple look and carry it off unselfconsciously. Suppliers' details below.


Suppliers
Albam
Sander & Sanders 
Tripl Stitched
Spoke
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Labels: ageless style, Albam, Recreating the Look, Sanders Shoes, Spoke, Steve McQueen, Triplstitched

Cary Grant and classic simplicity - Recreating the Look

Sunday, 26 October 2014

It's been a while since I added a post to the Recreating the Look series. Here's a very cool Cary Grant ordering a meal on a train in Hitchcock's North by Northwest. Naturally, he's dining with a beautiful woman (Eva Marie Saint). Grant's distinguished grey hair is echoed by the silver of his immaculate suit and tie. A plain white shirt helps keep the look clean. 


This photograph could have been taken at almost any time on the last fifty years; the look is a masterpiece of classic simplicity. The suit (which may or may not have been made by Kilgour of Savile Row) is generally reported to have been a subtle blue-grey Glen check (Prince of Wales check), a cloth that never shows up properly in photographs. The tie is said to have been grey with very fine polka dots, rather than plain.

As usual, I've found some products at different prices to enable you to recreate the look. The intention is not to exactly copy, but to give a similar style. You could finish it off with some brown Oxford or Derby brogues with burgundy socks and a subtle dove-grey textured silk pocket square that doesn't inject too much colour into this understated style.

The suits I've selected are off-the-peg, but you may prefer bespoke or made to measure for a perfect fit. I've spoken to Susannah Hall, tailor, who could make a suit for you from £850 depending on choice of cloth and style. Prices elsewhere for a tailored suit can rise to several thousand pounds, depending on the level of bespoke and the tailor you select

M&S Sartorial check suit £299

Richard James grey birdseye Hyde suit £795
Oliver Peoples Gregory Peck sunglasses
John Lewis Oxford shirt £35
Burberry £275 Mr Porter
M&S silk textured tie £17.50
Marwood tie and tie pin £280 - Mr Porter

For more in the Recreating the Look series click here. If you have any looks you would like me to recreate, please get in touch.

Suppliers
Marks & Spencer
Richard James
Oliver Peoples
John Lewis
Mr Porter
Marwood
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Labels: Burberry, Cary Grant, grey hair, grey suit, John Lewis, Marks and Spencer, Marwood, Mr Porter, Oliver Peoples, Recreating the Look, Richard James, white shirt

Recreating the look - Steve McQueen, Prince of Wales check and denim

Thursday, 31 October 2013

I often feel a bit uncomfortable putting together these occasional Recreating the Look posts as it is never just the clothes that make men look stylish. It takes natural self-confidence and a lack of self-consciousness to make clothes sit well a man's shoulders.

So, with the usual caveats, I bring you a recreation of Steve McQueen's style. Here he wears a soft-shouldered Prince of Wales check jacket (he would have called it Glen check) and a denim shirt. It's hard to find that creamy shade of PoW check (rather than the harsher black and white) - if you find a better alternative, let me know - vintage might be the way to go to find a perfect match. The Hentsch Man Friday shirt is a beautiful soft denim. For suppliers see below. For more Recreating the Look posts click here.




Jacket Paul Smith from Mr Porter, shirt Hentsch Man, for a white T-shirt, try Sunspel or M&S.
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Labels: Hentsch Man, Paul Smith, Recreating the Look, Steve McQueen

Recreating the Look - Gianni Agnelli

Tuesday, 24 September 2013

The purpose of this occasional Recreating the Look series is not to guarantee that you will look like those featured. Style is much more than a shirt, suit and tie. The longer I blog, the more I realise that style is a state of mind - a confidence, comfort and self-assurance - that communicates itself through your dress, carriage and attitude. With some that comes naturally; with others it takes years. So, read this post, but I can't guarantee you'll look as good as Gianni Agnelli, once head of the Fiat empire.

In all these shots he wears simple tweeds, shirts and ties. All are marked by a classic monochrome simplicity, the quality of the cut  - and the panache with which Agnelli wears them. This demonstrates to me that it's unnecessary to overindulge in pattern, colour or fashion to be stylish. Below I have selected some clothes which are my interpretation of Agnelli's style. What do you think?

At the bottom of this post I've added an image showing how I have recreated the look using clothes from Marks & Spencer. 

See another from my Recreating the Look series here.

Gianni Agnelli tweed suit

Gianni Agnelli Fiat car


Gianni Agnelli Grey Fox Blog

Paul Smith

Marwood pocket square

Hackett

Thom Browne

Margaret Howell

John Lobb

Finally, below Grey Fox tries the look - all clothes from Marks & Spencer - Moon tweed Sartorial jacket, Heritage grey wool tie and Sartorial 2-fold cotton shirt - total cost around £170.


Images of clothes above from Mr Porter - bottom image Grey Fox, others unknown.


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Labels: Gianni Agnelli, middle age style, older men dressing well, Recreating the Look

Recreating the look - Edward, Duke of Windsor 1942

Wednesday, 5 September 2012

This photograph from 1942 of the Duke of Windsor jumped out at me as a masterpiece of portrait photography. What struck me about it are its timelessness and the colours - see how the tones of the shirt, pocket square and tie are echoed in the books behind. There is much to influence a search for style.

It could have been taken yesterday. Perhaps we are used to seeing photos from this era in black and white, so we forget that ties, shirts and suits were coloured. Next there are the skills of the photographer; Edward's complex personality jumps out at you from this image. The style and dress sense of the sitter are striking. A white blazer (actually part of a suit; he was in the Bahamas), red check tie, mid-blue pocket square and chambray shirt are now on my shopping list - I have tried to recreate the look below, with thanks to the convenient Mr Porter.


Unfortunately white double-breasted jackets are not easy to find.

Loro Piana unstructured cotton blazer

Loro Piana washed cotton chambray shirt

Gucci wool blend tie

Drake's silk pocket square - Mr Porter

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Labels: Edward Duke of Windsor, fashion for older men, middle age style, Recreating the Look
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