Mintel Menswear Report 2017 - Older Men and Clothes Shopping

The Mintel Menswear Report 2017 was published recently and it covered some of the issues I write about here and elsewhere. The fashion industry tends to ignore the older man as a market, despite the size and affluence of the demographic. The report contains some interesting insights.

The report suggests that some older men aren't interested in buying clothes and I wonder if this is why brands don't think of them as a possible market. Why try to sell to a disinterested demographic? I think the situation is more complex. It's chicken and egg: I'm convinced that many older men show no interest in clothes shopping because the industry ignores them. If all a man sees is menswear adverts showing models in their twenties, they're going to assume that there's nothing there for them. The report shows that many older men say that advertising should reflect the age of the consumer.

Robert DeNiro in Zegna advertising

I know of no other market in which sales people don't attempt to sell to a fully accessible group simply because they think it won't buy from them. Some simple sales techniques could change all that. Businesses should show an interest in the older man; using older models would be a start. They don't need to worry that they'll have to start selling elastic-waisted trousers and Velcro-closure shoes to older men. If my postbag is anything to go by, there are many older men out there keen to show that style is not the preserve of the young. A little encouragement will go a long way.

There were a couple of surprises for me in the report. The high incidence of obesity (see below) among older men surprises me, but sadly it's a trend in all ages. The fact that 18% of men 55+ haven't bought clothes for themselves in the last 12 months is perhaps unsurprising given the point I've just made. I've little doubt that ageism lies behind the menswear industry's myopia, let's hope that changes soon.

I was pleased to see some mention of brands who've used older models (below).

Mark Hammill Rag & Bone Fall '17

Mintel have kindly sent me some relevant excerpts from their report and I quote what they sent me here in full:

"How can the sector encourage purchasing among older males?

The facts:

Older men aged 65+ stand out as being in the best financial situation, with 60% describing their finances as healthy.

The ONS [Office for National Statistics] predicts a 10.6% growth in the number of men aged 55 and above between 2016 and 2021.

Older men are more likely to need plus-sized clothing, with 79% of males aged 45-54 classified as overweight or obese.

The implications:

Older men aged 55+ remain the least keen clothes shoppers, with 18% not having bought clothes for themselves in the last 12 months. As the male population ages, retailers need to focus on encouraging older men to take a greater interest in their appearance and what they wear.

Men aged 55+ are most likely to shop at M&S, Primark and Asda. Older men shop around a lot less than younger men do and tend to be more brand loyal, shopping at one or two retailers in-store and one retailer online.

Older men see consistent sizes as the area they would most like improved at the retailers they shop at, with 39% of over-55s agreeing with this. Men who shop for clothes at M&S or Sainsbury’s are most interested in these retailers selling more consistent sizes across different brands and better fitting garments. 

Over three fifths (63%) of male shoppers agree that models in retailers’ ad campaigns should reflect the age of their customers, rising to almost seven in ten (68%) of Baby Boomers aged 52-70.

As Mintel’s Serving the Underserved identifies, consumers who have been underrepresented in the past are getting a greater voice. Several brands and retailers have been responding to this trend by using a more diverse range of models of different ages, sizes and ethnicities. Among those using older models in their menswear campaigns are Rag & Bone’s Fall 2017 imagery which starred 65-year-old Mark Hamill who is known for his role as Luke Skywalker in the Star Wars films. Actor Robert De Niro is the face of designer menswear brand, Ermenegildo Zegna’s spring 2017 campaign, and Calvin Klein’s new underwear campaign which launched in March 2017 features the 43-year-old star of the Oscar-winning Moonlight film.

Further statistics:

27% of men aged 45+ said they would like to see higher quality clothes (stitching, fabric quality) in stores 

24% of men aged 45+ said they would like to see seasonal clothing that can be worn whatever the weather in stores 

17% of 45+ said they would like to see better fitting clothes in stores (eg that flatter your shape) 

15% of men aged 45-54 agree that social media sites are a good way of getting inspiration on which clothes to buy, as do 10% of those aged 55+ 

63% of male clothes-shoppers say that models in retailers’ advertising campaigns should reflect the age of their customers, rising to 72% of those aged 65+".

With many thanks to Mintel for these data.

Is the menswear industry overlooking an affluent market; the older man?

Like many men over forty I've found that choosing suitable clothes can be difficult. I don’t want skinny cuts and low waistbands, nor do I want the shapeless designs so often sold on our high streets and online. What I’m looking for is stylish, well-made, properly-fitting clothes that enable me to reflect my personality.

Such clothes exist, but they have to be searched for. Brands in general don’t advertise to the older man. When did you last see a menswear advert featuring a model over 25 years of age? I’m not talking about the folksy older models used to sell boxy tweed jackets and corduroy trousers in Sunday papers, I mean cool, stylish older men used in a non-patronising way to sell quality menswear.

Image from Men in this Town image by Joshua Lawrence

The failure to try to sell to older men can mean we don't buy. Unfortunately, we often give up on style after 40. As we we no longer have to compete for jobs, love, a partner, the need to look good is less pressing. Furthermore, the absence of inspiration and role models showing how well we could dress does nothing to encourage us. The clothing industry seems to have given up on us and the rarity of older men in fashion advertising is symptomatic of the problem.

Image: The Sartorialist from The Sartorialist X

I’d like to see the menswear industry wake up to the fact that the older man is the most affluent and fastest-growing demographic. Retailers are losing money by failing to market themselves effectively to us. If they sell to the older man, we will buy.

I wanted to show that older men are interested in style and to encourage others to explore the possibilities. I decided, with some reluctance, to start showing images on the blog of myself wearing clothes I like. This has snowballed recently and I’ve arranged or been invited to take part in a number of photo-shoots (see, for example, the image below of a Marks & Spencer photoshoot).

If this encourages other older men to look again at their wardrobes and to recognise the power and importance of dressing well, I will be a happy man. If it encourages menswear brands to use images of older men in their sales and marketing, I will be even happier.

Grey Fox in a collaboration with Marks & Spencer

I first wrote a version of this article for Men's Style Fashion and have adapted it for this post. 

Oliver Sweeney SS15 and ageless menswear advertising

I make no apology for featuring Oliver Sweeney in successive posts; this is an editorial decision prompted by my approval of their advertising campaign for their spring/summer 2015 collection. Not only does it contain clothes I'd like to wear (from a brand I previously associated only with shoes), but they also have selected a model with a good show of grey hairs.

The model is in his fifties (he's Glenn Campbell, a stylist and presenter in his fifties and isn't a professional model) make the shots ageless in a way that gives me, an older man, some idea of how the clothes could look on me. At the risk of becoming tedious on this point, I feel that many brands are losing out by ignoring the older man; we are a demographic that is increasing in size, affluence and interest in style. Advertise to us and we will abandon our cardigans and slippers and buy with enthusiasm.

Readers will recall I wore one of their coats in my recent spring coats shoot (click here). Well done Oliver Sweeney. (Incidentally, this isn't a sponsored post).

Plenty of grey at London Collections:Men, but no grey hairs. Why not?

This month's London Collections:Men showed that, for AW15, menswear is going monotone. Grey, black and white sometimes relieved by dark blues was the dominant theme in the more classic collections. Some used brighter highlights as relief; orange and yellow ochre being popular. 

I approve; such tones make an ideal background for pops of colour and a fine structure for patterns like Prince of Wales, herringbone and dogtooth checks. However, the silver, titanium and steely greys were not reflected by the hair of the models showing the wonderful collections on display. Why not, I ask?

E Tautz - shades of grey, but no grey hairs (image ?Hunger Magazine)

I have no objection to youthful models, but their exclusive use in advertising and on the catwalks locks out the growing demographic of which I'm a member; older men. In fact, it also excludes anyone who isn't tall and skinny, but that's another issue.

Thomas Pink at London Collections:Men AW15

There were exceptions: Duchamp, Oliver Spencer and Thomas Pink were among the few acknowledging that older men also represent the menswear market.

Oliver Spencer

One of my favourite collections was that from E. Tautz. British-made, superb materials; checks and herringbones in greys, charcoals and silvers, all colours which go so well with grey hair. Yet there was not one older model wearing these amazing clothes. The collection would have been graced by a few grey hairs and this would have opened it up to a whole new consumer: the older man in search of well-made style. The same goes for most of the more classic collections on display at LC:M.

Duchamp

At the risk of repeating myself, older men are an affluent, settled, and growing group. They may not all be interested in style, but with a little encouragement this is a market waiting to be opened up by shrewd selling. Such marketing can start by showing men's fashions on older models. This provides the role models and inspiration that older men need to get involved in style by purchasing menswear. It's as simple as that. Come on fashion industry, get real.

Grey Fox Blog is three years old today - age, style, fashion and the older man

Grey Fox Blog is three years old
When I started this blog three years ago, I thought it would last three months, but it's still going strong. I love it; almost every minute. The many approaches from brands and PR firms are proof that the blog has impact. On the other hand, they bring pressures on a lone blogger.

Image by Jonathan Daniel Pryce for Holdall & Co

This won't change. I like to write honestly and independently about things that interest me; well-designed menswear, style for the older man and British-made products. These are aspects of the blog that readers repeatedly tell me they value. I'm reluctant to undermine this by becoming too large or commercial.

Another birthday
I reach my sixtieth birthday after Christmas. This is relevant only in that I still feel that the fashion industry doesn't give the older demographic the attention it deserves, despite its increasing size and affluence. However, I've seen some evidence of change and have decided to do what I can to encourage this through my writing and, more recently, even modelling for brands as diverse as Holdall & Co (above), Mr Porter and Marks & Spencer.

I've taken on the photo-shoots either because I want to support a brand or because I want to provide an example to older men. If they see stylish, fashionable and well-designed products being worn by men of a similar age, they will buy them. They are alienated when clothes are modelled by young men hardly out of their teens.

Older models have an impact

The aims of this blog: fashion industry and the older man
The older man needn't resort to slippers and cardigans once past his fortieth birthday. I want the fashion industry to recognise that they could sell to the demographic if they made a little effort. The reluctance of brands to market themselves to older people astonishes me. It may be that research tells them that this age-group is uninterested, but to not even try smacks of defeatism that must be unique in the history of marketing.

Increasing health and life expectancy means that older men have time, money and the appetite for a more stylish existence than did our parents. They are a potentially lucrative target for menswear brands. What's needed is advertising that recognises the existence of older men. Ralph Lauren, Hackett and others have led the way, albeit often with a token 'dad' figure at a house party; but others could follow and give it a more serious try. Why not have a mix of young and older men in your next photo-shoot?

Older men simply need ideas, inspiration and encouragement to buy. For brands that try and for ideas, see my Pinterest board here.

Contacting Grey Fox for coverage on the blog
Finally, back to the blog. I'm going to say 'no' much more. If you approach the blog with a request and I am unable to help, please understand that this is self-preservation. I simply cannot do all that I'm asked, however much I'd like to. However, if you're a new or young business, or make in Britain, or are prepared to sponsor the blog, I may bump you up to the top of the waiting list.

Please stick with Grey Fox - the blog is you, the reader and the brands who've helped out so far. Thank you for your support. I love to hear from you, so don't hesitate to e-mail with your thoughts or queries or suggestions.

The Grey Style Project - Nigel Cabourn, Covent Garden

For various reasons The Grey Style Project, recording older men of style on our streets, has slowed in recent months. But here's my shot of Nigel Cabourn outside his just-opened Covent Garden store.

Nigel Cabourn image © Grey Fox

For other Grey Style Project images on this blog, click here. Please follow The Grey Style Project on Tumblr.

I'll be writing about Nigel Cabourn's new shop soon. Meanwhile, click here to go to Nigel Cabourn's website.

Asian Street Fashion by James Bent - a book review

The influence of Asia as a centre of fashion has yet to be widely appreciated. Those in the know realise its importance as a sophisticated and selective marketplace. British-made menswear is eagerly sought after in Japan (and increasingly China and Korea) where its quality and heritage are better understood than here in Britain. We should keep an eye on Asia.

Image - Sam Baik, Seoul, October © James Bent

Given this increasing importance, I was eager to get hold of a copy of a new book Asian Street Fashion by James Bent, published by Thames & Hudson. The street photography is outstanding. The range of styles and influences is remarkable. While, inevitably with globalisation, western fashions predominate, Asian youth applies its own stamp and interpretation, often adding local culture and style to the western base. On the evidence of the book, the men's styles seem more diverse, edgy and original than the women's, which, with some exceptions, look pure western.

I liked the absence of subjects texting or talking on the mobile phone. This has become a street-style photography cliché, much over-used by even well-known photographers.

Nearly all the subjects are young. I'd have liked to see more examples of how older Asians, men and women, tackle style. The young tend to shout, "I'm wearing cool fashions!", whereas older people show their personalities in what they wear, giving them an originality lacking in more derivative young styles.

Why would I, an older western male, want to read this book? Whatever your age, the search for style involves looking widely for inspiration. There are style elements here that could be adopted by any man (or woman) of style of any age.

I'm also interested because I want to persuade anyone designing or marketing British fashion to study the book:

These images should influence and inform the future of the UK fashion manufacturing industry which, largely ignored at home, needs to look to Asia for a future.

A book for anyone with an interest in style, fashion, business, the influence of Asia or just with an interest in people.

Thames & Hudson website.

Grey Fox features in 'The Grey Fox Issue' - Mr Porter Journal

I'd like to thank Mr Porter for featuring Grey Fox in today's Mr Porter Journal, ('The Grey Fox Issue'). In doing so they are recognising that the older man can be interested in style and that he has commercial clout and influence in the fashion world. For me this is a significant development as it confirms that the aims of this blog are slowly bearing fruit. See The Mr Porter Journal.

We had great fun on the shoot, in a huge, shabby-grand, Georgian house in Belgrave Square, London. The team was outstanding, but I'd like in particular to thank the photographer, Cat Garcia, for her wonderful work. The stylist, Scott Stephenson, allowed me to select the clothes from Mr Porter's astonishing collections; there is an emphasis on some favourite British brands. It was fun trying things I hadn't worn before.

While the use of the description 'cult' is a gross exaggeration, I'm pleased that Grey Fox has been recognised. This is acknowledgement that older men can be the specific target of fashion marketing - and that's one of the aims of this blog.

Many thanks also to the many of you who support Grey Fox, getting in touch with comments, ideas and suggestions; you have little idea how much I appreciate it: greyfoxblogATgmailDOTcom

If you're new to Grey Fox, please also follow on Twitter (@GreyFoxBlog), Instagram (GreyFoxBlog), Pinterest (Grey Fox) and Tumblr (Grey Fox). Thank you!

From Mr Porter - photographer Cat Garcia

Middle-aged spread - how to manage it with style: Sarah Gilfillan advises

I've asked Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab to advise on the tricky issue of the older man's thickening middle. Here she has put together some tips (that DON'T include going to the gym) to help you dress to disguise this area.

Vertical & horizontal lines

Most people are aware that vertical lines will cause your eye to travel up and down rather than from left to right therefore making you look taller and slimmer. Great for shirts, but not so much for sweaters and t-shirts. So what's the alternative? Horizontal stripes across the chest area will bring the attention away from the stomach, and have the added benefit of visually broadening your chest. If you can find one with a light colour at the top and a darker one across the tummy this will have the effect of making you look like you've been on a diet and at the gym. What's not to like?!

You can create the illusion of a vertical stripe with a shirt featuring a contrast placket down the front, or a darker layer on top of a light one. This will give the effect of a narrow stripe down the centre of your body, effectively cutting you in half and directing the eye to the middle of your body.

Bring attention to your shoulders and chest

Stick to single-breasted jackets and avoid the trend for double-breasted as you don't need an extra layer of fabric around your stomach area. Try peak lapels to take the eye up towards the shoulders, creating a great distraction from the stomach area. Other ways to achieve this are by wearing a sweater with a pattern across the shoulders or a shirt or t-shirt with a contrasting shoulder panel (above image), shoulder seam detailing or colour block with the darker colour at the bottom.

Casual shirts with chest pockets will bring the point of focus away from the stomach and higher up to the chest area. If you prefer to wear a crew neck, then look for something with graphics high up on your chest or a pocket tee.

Colours and patterns

Darker colours tend to make you look smaller and patterns can distort the focus of the eye, so you have something other than a large, plain expanse of fabric to look at. A small check or gingham or a small uniform pattern is a great choice.



For weekend wear, don't just think black shirts - look for deep burgundy or aubergine, navy and pine green, which could also have a very small dot on it or be in a jacquard fabric. If you're wearing a darker top, contrasting trousers in a lighter colour will work well to bring the focus down to your legs and away from your middle section. Remember that matt fabrics for your top half are preferable as they absorb the light more than shiny ones.

Fit

Avoid the "trousers under your belly" look by wearing flat-front trousers not too low-cut. If they are cut a little higher, and some of your stomach is covered with the darker fabric, then it will effectively cut it in half. Trousers with a side-adjuster will keep the look streamlined and trim.

Your shirts should be fitted enough not to be tight across your tummy or straining at the back, but not so enormous that there are swathes of extra fabric adding to your silhouette. Make sure t-shirts are long enough, as extra fabric can be taken up by the stomach making them look shorter. Choose jackets that are slightly longer so that the eye doesn't stop at your stomach area and avoid bomber jackets which with an elasticated hem, which will add pounds around the waistline.

Accessories

If you're wearing a tie then make sure it's long enough - it should just touch the top of your belt. A tie that is too short and finishes mid tummy acts like an arrow and will stop the eye at your widest point giving an unflattering look. If you're a larger than average man, then ignore the "look du jour" of skinny ties and ensure yours is a regular or slightly wider width.

Keep your belt subtle and toning with your trousers. Avoid very shiny or statement buckles which will draw attention to this area. You can use more interesting accessories elsewhere - ie: a pocket square, or great watch and cufflinks. 

Gentlemen, I hope this has been helpful, but if you have any more queries or would like help shopping for a flattering and age appropriate wardrobe then contact me here.

Some useful menswear links:

John Smedley 

Boss Orange

Burberry 

Saturdays Surf NYC at Mr Porter 

Hugo Boss

Richard James at Mr Porter

Vivienne Westwood at Van Mildert

Oliver Spencer 

Barbour

J Crew

Nigel Hall 

Maison Martin Margiela at Mr Start

Marwood 

Alice Made This

Wearfore - Anne Marie NG tells us about her luxury shirts label

I first met Anne Marie NG last year when we chatted about her ambitions to start a high-quality men's shirt brand. She has now done that, so I caught up with her recently to talk about her new label, Wearfore. Knowing how keen I am for brands to use older men to sell their products, she kindly asked me to be photographed in some of her lovely shirts. We had a fascinating morning with outstanding photographer,  David Newby, more of whose work can be found at David Newby. 

The quality of the shirt fabric and manufacture is very high; they felt comfortable and soft to wear. For more information, visit Wearfore.

Wearfore - image by David Newby

Tell us about the business.

The name Wearfore is a play on the word “wherefore” - for what reason you are wearing your clothes? 

We're a London-based, high-end menswear label that combines timeless designs with understated luxury, beautiful fabrics and considered details. The business has initially started with just capsule ranges of shirts, trans-seasonal styles crafted by specialist manufacturers in Europe, with more products being added over time. 

Alongside each collection is the Wearfore Creatives Series, an ongoing photography project featuring emerging and established creatives people wearing Wearfore, with a little insight into where and how they work.

Wearfore cotton collared shirt - image David Newby

How did you get started? 

I’ve designed luxury menswear for two Savile Row brands, Kilgour and Gieves & Hawkes, where I was their first female Global Head of Design and creating super luxury collections for the China market. I was constantly travelling between Asia and Europe, observing how men dressed for their busy lives in different climates and I’d been thinking for a long time about setting up my own brand of menswear that is more relevant to modern lifestyles. 

I started Wearfore last April and having been fortunate to work with many of the best mills and factories, I already knew exactly whom I wanted to work with. We produced eight spring-summer shirt samples that were photographed by David Newby for the first Wearfore Creatives Series and featured four British artists. I showed my shirts and images to James Sleaford, Fashion Director at GQ France and he suggested contacting the British Fashion Council. So after just nine months of starting the business, Wearfore launched at LC:M in January 2014 with a capsule collection of trans-seasonal and autumn-winter shirts.

Where are your shirts made? 

Wearfore shirts are currently made by two amazing, specialist shirt factories in Italy. They have the expertise, knowhow and all the capabilities I need. Plus, as most of my shirt fabrics and trims are Italian too, it makes sense to keep everything as close together as possible. 

Wearfore white collarless cotton shirt - image David Newby

Who and where are your main markets? How would you like to see these develop?

I design smart-casual wear for international creative and discerning men who are self-assured and care about details, quality and provenance. 

Aside from establishing Wearfore in the UK, my main target market overseas is Asia, especially China as I’ve witnessed first-hand the huge potential for menswear brands over there. I’d love Wearfore to have lifestyle stores there one day.

What have been the particular challenges?

Finding a decent British shirt manufacturer who can do small production runs, garment washing and dyeing has been particularly challenging. Sadly, there are just not many specialist shirt factories and dye-wash houses left in England now.

Another challenge has been getting in front of British buyers as they’re inundated with brands. In contrast, I met several buyers in Hong Kong who run very cool shops and are open to finding out about new labels. It’s a very exciting market out there.

What inspires you in driving the business?

I’m inspired by the fact that more men around the world are becoming interested in clothes and how to style themselves. Technology and social media, however disruptive, has really helped the growth of menswear and I’m now working on how to sell Wearfore online. This is all new to me so it’s a huge learning curve, but a positive one!

Wearfore white cotton collared shirt - image David Newby

What are you favourite moments in running the business?

It’s been great to start a menswear label from scratch and be able to take it in any direction creatively. It’s also always exciting when my shirt samples arrive back from the factories - I can’t wait to see them come to life on people, not just in a shiny packet or on a hanger. 

My other favourite moments are when we photograph Creatives for the Wearfore Creatives Series and meeting lots of new people in the fashion industry, particularly other designers and the press.

Any further thoughts? 

I’m currently working on my first collaboration on “Wearfore Art Thou” T-shirts with an emerging British artist, DRB, whose work is in the permanent collection at the V&A.

Follow on Twitter:

Shirts - @Wearfore

Photographer - @DavidNewbyPhoto

Model - David Evans @GreyFoxBlog

Spring Summer trends and how to wear them - Sarah Gilfillan helps us out

Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab, stylist extraordinaire, has again agreed to share with us the benefit of her experience scanning the shops for the best, at all price points, for her male clients. Here she advises the older man on spring/summer trends and how to wear them. GF.

Florals

The catwalks showed head to toe florals in clashing prints and full suits, and the Prada collection in particular was all things tropical. I doubt very much whether I'll be buying any of these looks in full with my clients, but I can see them being persuaded into a floral shirt or two - perhaps even going for a Hawaiian style or some floral shorts to add some fun and colour to their holiday outfits. Or maybe it'll just be a nod to the trend with a floral cotton tie or pocket square. Even if you're a bit of a shrinking violet in the sartorial department, like my friend's husband was, try it out A shirt he bought for a Hawaiian party a couple of years ago has now become his favourite summer BBQ shirt.

Links: Prada Tom Ford Gucci French Connection Penfield Universal Works

White

I'm trying to imagine if I could see GF bowling up to meet me in Central London in a pure white suit and frankly I'm finding it rather hard. Perhaps at a party in a hot and summer clime or wedding (though you wouldn't want to upstage the bride) but in your local town or city?

So my suggestion on how to incorporate the all white trend into your wardrobe this summer is to go for a more casual look. White denim is having a fashion moment, but if I was dressing a more mature client I'd be more inclined to suggest an off-white pair of jeans or chinos instead. You could then pair them with a white polo shirt, a white cotton or linen shirt and a textured cotton knit, and it becomes more of a wearable trend. Classic Converse would work well, tan shoes and belt or desert boots.

Berluti Nicole Farhi Dolce & Gabbana APC Hartford Gant Clarks Andersons 

Fifties style shirts 

Personally I rather like this look. Along with GF's sister (photographer Carole Evans), I also frequent the Lindy hopping/jive scene where a large proportion of the men dress in 40's and 50's style clothing from when these dances were popular. The 50's style shirts seen on the catwalks are an unusually practical option for summer, and easy to translate to your wardrobe.

One word of caution though, when you're wearing something retro and you're a little more mature, guard against looking as if you've had it from the first time round, by teaming it with modern, up to date pieces and avoid wearing an entire look from that era.

Nicole Farhi Missoni Canali Jigsaw French Connection Folk

Pink 

From the palest to the most neon and everything in between, pink was the colour on the Spring Summer catwalks. So if, like me (and me, GF), you believe that real men do wear pink, then get hunting for the shade that most suits your complexion.

Here's what I would advise: If you have Ryan Gosling type colouring ie. fair hair and complexion and blue/green eyes - choose a pale or dusty pink. If you're more like Michael McIntyre - dark hair, pale skin, and dark eyes - go for a bright, fuschia pink. If your colouring is warmer like Damian Lewis' and you have sandy or ginger hair and freckly skin - then look for more of a salmon or coral pink. Or if you have similar colouring to George Lamb with olive skin, grey or dark hair and brown eyes then a deeper shade of a warm salmon pink will look better on you. Combine it with neutrals like grey, navy and brown and white. If you're still not sure about wearing a large amount of pink then a flash of it in a pocket square, tie or socks will add a modern youthful touch to an outfit.

Burberry Prorsum Paul Smith Richard James Marks & Spencer Jet 8 Duchamp

Suits with t-shirts

Just when we'd got used to men dressing up more, I've noticed the designers are now going back to a more relaxed way of styling and it seems there's a return to the 90's trend of wearing trainers with suits. There's more relaxed, unstructured tailoring around with a shift away from the very skinny, tight silhouette that's been dominating the menswear scene for the past few years. As you can see from the images below, many of the shows were styled with t-shirts worn with suits and I think this could be a good look for the older man to try out. I can see it working really well with an unstructured cotton, seersucker or linen suit for an informal summer wedding or outdoor lunch. Choose a fitted, but not tight, t-shirt that skims rather than clings, with a neckline that sits not too high and not too low, and wear loafers or suede brogues with it.

Calvin Klein Costume National Zegna Jigsaw Oliver Spencer Villain

For more advice, see Sarah's Sartorial Lab blog here.

The Grey Style Project - Breaking all the rules

The rules say that when you reach middle age you don't wear headphones, t-shirts and Converse. Like hell they do; as shown by this stylish man, shot by Carole Evans when we were out on a Grey Style Project shoot in Carnaby Street, London -

Image © Carole Evans Photography - shot for The Grey Style Project

For more information on The Grey Style Project - or to take part - click here.
For more images from The Grey Style Project see here and follow on Tumblr.

A reader asks: where to find affordable menswear - Sarah Gilfillan answers

I received this comment from  a reader, John, recently -

I really enjoy your blog, however it seems to be aimed at the "affluent" male of a certain age and unfortunately I do not fall into the former category. I would love to source my wardrobe from British manufacturers, but the reality is that I cannot afford to pay the substantial premium that this entails. For example I would like a pair of Cheaney brogues but £350 plus is out of my league so I wear a pair of £79 M&S brogues. I wear a pair of £45 Next selvedge jeans, instead of £150 plus Edwin's etc. I also buy from Topman and ASOS, to achieve many of the looks featured in your blog. I welcome your comments. (By the way this in not a criticism of your blog).

Thank you very much for raising this important point - I welcome such comments. I've asked Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab to advise us. She has much experience of helping clients with styling and clothes purchases.

Uniqlo cashmere crew neck

So, Sarah, where can mature men of style find affordable menswear?

Sarah:   I agree that sometimes we "fashion folk" get carried away by the beautiful products we see which, in reality, are out of reach for lots of people. As a personal stylist, I shop with men of all different ages including many over the age of 40. They have varying budgets so I am challenged to find the best for them within their price range.

Below I've listed some of the places that I have successfully shopped with my clients, finding items they were very happy with, firstly, in terms of fit, price and ability to fit into their lifestyle and, secondly, that we both felt hit the balance between not too young but not veering into 'old and given up' territory.

You may be surprised by some of the shops I suggest, considering them unsuitable, but I urge you to take a look next time you're out shopping or at their online stores.

Cos -

When you look at their website, you may be forgiven for thinking that the clothing is aimed at the very young and hip; but look again - a lot of the things they stock are very simple in design and cut and devoid of too much detail which, in my mind, makes them look contemporary but easy to wear for the older customer . This simplicity means they will integrate well with other pieces in your wardrobe.

My oldest client to date was a charming gentleman of 71. We purchased a number of items from here. I have spoken to his wife since and he's been very pleased with them all - as was she with his updated image!

Cos

Nigel Hall -

I regularly shop at Nigel Hall with a wide variety of clients. They seem to have something for everyone and really tick the boxes of simple style with subtle differences. The trousers go up to a size 38" waist and I'm pleased to see that they are doing XXL (44" chest) again in shirts which they stopped doing for one season. I’d liken them to Ted Baker, but a little more understated and not so well known, which means your clothing won't be instantly recognisable - rather a pet hate of mine.

Nigel Hall

Uniqlo -

I have found some ridiculously cheap and more than fabulous things in Uniqlo for clients. I remember one linen blazer in a small grey check that fitted my lovely client (who was short and rather round) beautifully and looked stunning - and it was about £35! I also favour their jeans and chinos and love that they'll take them up for you in store for free and often within a couple of hours. Their brilliant cashmere comes in soooo many colours!

My trendy Japanese hairdresser, (who's under 40) loves Uniqlo and will style it up a bit, but it can be worn as simply as you like.

  

Reiss -

This is a place I shop with guys of all ages and they often comment that they thought it was just for younger guys and would never normally go in. I agree it does have a fashion slant and I've found recently that the trousers are rather too skinny to work for some clients; but for shirts, knitwear and outerwear it’s classic with a very modern edge. I’d say it works best on guys that are slight or of a smaller stature.

Reiss

Banana Republic -

Great for basics and one of the only places that you can get blazers/sports jackets in the different lengths that are usually confined to suiting - very useful to know if you are particularly tall or short. I got a great couple of blazers here with a tall client who was in his late fifties plus lots of shirts and some excellent Prada-esque smart trainers. It's worth signing up to their newsletter as they often have loads of great discount offers. Sizes run large here.

Banana Republic

Massimo Dutti -

The older brother of Zara, and another place I shop in with clients in their late 40's and 50's. I would describe the pieces they have as elegant with a European style chic to them, usually in subtle and muted colours.  I'd say it's cut on the smaller, slim side, so not perfect for everyone, but well worth checking out.

Massimo Dutti

Kin by John Lewis -

I must admit I haven't actually shopped with anyone from this range but I've seen it and thought it looked really good and as the tagline says "Affordable, well designed, contemporary, yet timeless". I think that sums it up really well - contemporary yet timeless is exactly what I think is right for the older guy, and it does look like it's extremely good value. [Grey Fox: I have some of the range and can confirm that it is both good value, stylish and reasonably well-made].

Kin by John Lewis

In case you're wondering why Marks & Spencer is missing from this list - it's not because I don't like what they're doing, but just because most people already shop there and as men are usually creatures of habit with regard to clothes shopping, I try to introduce them to new places so they can expand their horizons when next shopping by themselves. And besides, you should know all about M&S if you've been paying attention to Grey Fox's previous posts!

Grey Fox: Many thanks, Sarah. I would add Debenhams Hammond & Co to this list. I will be writing about them again shortly [Ed. see here]. This collection, designed by Patrick Grant, contains excellently-made clothes in a classic very contemporary style. I'd also like to mention one more point -

The quality/price equation

Care needs to be taken that quality isn't compromised by cheapness. Clothes that last a few months may be cheap in the short term, but good quality will last longer, making better-made clothes a better investment. Most of the brands mentioned by Sarah combine quality with low prices, but I've bought clothes from one of the retailers mentioned above (Massimo Dutti) that hardly lasted six months. I accept that this can happen with even pricey garments and it will depend on the individual item. Check carefully for strong seams, well-attached buttons and scrunch up the fabric to ensure it is not so thin and mean that it will quickly look shabby.

There is a strong argument for buying better-made clothes as investments - you can always find them at good prices in the sales, but if the ready cash isn't available you have, as Sarah has pointed out, an excellent choice from more economically-priced brands on the high street and online.

[Ed. Since this was posted, Sarah has helpfully put together a capsule collection to illustrate how clothes from these suppliers can be put together for Spring on her own website here].

I know we haven't been comprehensive in our selection. If you have any more suggestions for us, please let is know by e-mail or comment below.

If you have any questions for Grey Fox, please e-mail.

Getting the new Dr Who look - Timeless style?

So Peter Capaldi's new Dr Who is apparently ditching the tweed and woolly scarves and going for a mod-style red silk-lined navy Crombie with dark blue trousers, white shirt (buttoned at collar, of course), navy waistcoat and black Doc Martens (maybe more skinhead than mod?). As an honorary member of the Grey Fox Club, an older man of style, Capaldi gets our approval. He'll help the gradual rediscovery of the powerful grey pound by the fashion industry. [Edit - since posting this the BBC has changed its description of the shoes to 'sturdy black shoes'. I'm told that those in the image below are Loake, not Doc Martens. I already had a photo of Loake boots below.]

Will we be seeing many Dr Who lookalikes on our streets? Here's how you can be one too.

Image BBC

The main feature is the red lined Crombie - a coat much favoured by everyone from City gents to skinheads and mods. It's interesting how a former symbol of capitalist power can also have been adopted by rebel youth movements and, of course, rebel time lords.

Navy Crombie with red silk lining - from Crombie of course

Arthur & Henry ethically-made white shirt

Sir Plus navy wool waistcoat

Oliver Spencer navy wool fishtail Pennington trouser

Doc Martens 3989 shoe

Or...........

Loake smooth black leather boots