This month's London Collections:Men showed that, for AW15, menswear is going monotone. Grey, black and white sometimes relieved by dark blues was the dominant theme in the more classic collections. Some used brighter highlights as relief; orange and yellow ochre being popular.
I approve; such tones make an ideal background for pops of colour and a fine structure for patterns like Prince of Wales, herringbone and dogtooth checks. However, the silver, titanium and steely greys were not reflected by the hair of the models showing the wonderful collections on display. Why not, I ask?
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E Tautz - shades of grey, but no grey hairs (image ?Hunger Magazine) |
I have no objection to youthful models, but their exclusive use in advertising and on the catwalks locks out the growing demographic of which I'm a member; older men. In fact, it also excludes anyone who isn't tall and skinny, but that's another issue.
Thomas Pink at London Collections:Men AW15 |
There were exceptions: Duchamp, Oliver Spencer and Thomas Pink were among the few acknowledging that older men also represent the menswear market.
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Oliver Spencer |
One of my favourite collections was that from E. Tautz. British-made, superb materials; checks and herringbones in greys, charcoals and silvers, all colours which go so well with grey hair. Yet there was not one older model wearing these amazing clothes. The collection would have been graced by a few grey hairs and this would have opened it up to a whole new consumer: the older man in search of well-made style. The same goes for most of the more classic collections on display at LC:M.
Duchamp |
At the risk of repeating myself, older men are an affluent, settled, and growing group. They may not all be interested in style, but with a little encouragement this is a market waiting to be opened up by shrewd selling. Such marketing can start by showing men's fashions on older models. This provides the role models and inspiration that older men need to get involved in style by purchasing menswear. It's as simple as that. Come on fashion industry, get real.