As winter retreats and the Sun warms the Earth, we find our winter coats a little heavy and uncomfortable. I decided, with help from Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab, to look for lighter coats that can be layered according to temperature.
We wanted to try a variety of styles and approached a few brands offering an interesting selection in their SS15 collections. I was pleased at least half of them are British-made, even though we hadn't selected them on that basis.
We wanted to try a variety of styles and approached a few brands offering an interesting selection in their SS15 collections. I was pleased at least half of them are British-made, even though we hadn't selected them on that basis.
This is the first of a series of photo-shoots in which Sarah and I show menswear being worn by older men (initially me, volunteers welcome). Most brands use very young models, discouraging the older man from trying out the products on offer.
I've tried coats I wouldn't normally wear and have been surprised by most of them. I hope that our approach will encourage you to experiment and try some of the clothes we show. If our efforts both encourage brands to use older models in their campaigns and also influence you to try new styles, I'll be very happy.
I've tried coats I wouldn't normally wear and have been surprised by most of them. I hope that our approach will encourage you to experiment and try some of the clothes we show. If our efforts both encourage brands to use older models in their campaigns and also influence you to try new styles, I'll be very happy.
Sarah and I comment on each jacket below, giving a link to the supplier's website (or to the item itself) so that you can browse and buy. We've only had cursory glances at the suppliers' descriptions so that we can give you our own views on the coats.
I'm very grateful to photographer Nick Maroudias for the superb images and for his support for an inexperienced model. Without his involvement, this project would have been impossible. Thanks also to Jean-Pierre Agius whose help and innovative styling suggestions were invaluable.
REALM & EMPIRE:
I'm very grateful to photographer Nick Maroudias for the superb images and for his support for an inexperienced model. Without his involvement, this project would have been impossible. Thanks also to Jean-Pierre Agius whose help and innovative styling suggestions were invaluable.
REALM & EMPIRE:
REALM AND EMPIRE COTTON PEACOAT £225.00 ^
Sarah: I wasn't sure about this jacket when I first saw images of it, but it really grew on me when I could see and handle it. I love pea-coats and the tan cotton looks fresh for spring. It goes very well with navy and white so, if you're like a lot of men with a large percentage of blue in your wardrobe, it'll make a good choice. We decided to give it a smarter feel with a chambray shirt and floral tie.
David: I liked the colour and fit of this coat from an interesting and growing brand. Like most coats tried here, it follows the modern trend for short-fit. With well-designed and made details (like the closure to the collar) this is comfortable and well-made. It will suit most ages and body-types, making it an ideal spring/summer jacket.
BARBOUR:
BARBOUR INTERNATIONAL - SIMONSIDE WAX JACKET £249 ^
Sarah: I often shop for classic, functional jackets with clients and Barbour offer a great selection. The biker style of this one gives it a "cool" Steve McQueen edge. Wear it done up and belted or open with the belt tied at the back.
David: My initial thought was that this may be too motor bike for daily wear, but I was wrong. I liked the fit, practicality and classic style of this jacket. Versatile enough for town and country wear and can be layered as the weather cools. A cool classic, but I'd like to see fewer logos; Barbour is a brand that shouldn't need to shout that loudly.
JOHN LEWIS BOMBER KIN JACKET £89.00 ^
Sarah: Generally I consider bomber jackets to be a bit of a younger style, but when David tried this on I thought it looked good. Initially we tried to style it with a polo shirt for a summery feel, but it gave it too much of a mod / skinhead style, so we went back to a simple roll neck. A fine knit crew neck sweater layered over a t-shirt would also look good.
David: My thoughts are the same as Sarah's. Care needs to be taken when wearing a bomber, but I was surprised how much I liked it. Reasonably-priced and stylishly simple, it has a mesh lining and the quality belies its price. One for you to try for yourself.
Sarah: This was the surprise of the day which ended up being my favourite. Duffle coats aren't everyone's style, but it really suited David. It's a great spring-like take on the classic wool duffle, in a lightweight showerproof fabric. It's not the first thing I'd think of buying with a client but, having seen this on, I'll definitely be more open to it in future.
David: Again, my thoughts are the same. This was a very last-minute addition to the shoot. I requested it urgently as it offered something quite different to the other coats. I wasn't hopeful that I'd like it, but it ended up as a surprise favourite of the day, and it's British-made. Made from an Italian coated cotton, it's shower-proof and light. An interesting, practical and stylish version of the classic duffle coat. I've seen some interesting products coming from Gloverall and look forward to covering them again.
OLIVER SWEENEY:
OLIVER SWEENEY BOXSTEAD CHARCOAL COTTON JACKET £395 ^
Sarah: I love the elegant shape of this mac-style jacket/coat, which would work equally well on larger guys because of the simple unfussy style. It looks great with jeans, but would also be perfect over a suit. Although the fabric is cotton it looks a bit more tweedy. I'd be more inclined to buy this with clients in autumn rather than spring.
David: Oliver Sweeney offer an interesting range of menswear. This coat comes in many guises (including as a mac) and colours. At first glance it's wool, but it's made of a cotton tweedy fabric, ideal for milder spring and summer weather. With a clean design, nice details and (this was a pleasant surprise) a Made in England label, this was another favourite - probably for town rather than country wear.
BARBOUR X WHITE MOUNTAINEERING:
BARBOUR x WHITE MOUNTANEERING WAX LAPEL JACKET £399.00 ^
Sarah: An interesting and detailed jacket which fills the gap between a blazer and a casual jacket. Its the sort of thing I might buy with a client if they didn't have the need for a smart navy blazer, and wanted something a bit different.
David: I liked its cut and practicality, but was less sure about the details, in particular the numerous pockets and the perforations on large parts of the jacket. This is a collaboration with the Japanese White Mountaineering, so it's aimed at the younger man. One for you to try and make up your own mind about.
PRIVATE WHITE V.C. ALCANTARA SHAWL BOMBER £850.00 ^
Sarah: I like the shape, collar and detailing of this jacket. It's got quite a retro seventies style to it, so I think on an older guy it needs to be styled with modern pieces to keep it looking contemporary.
David: A British-made jacket (in Manchester) from the successful Private White V.C. Although I've been to their factory and supported them on the blog for some time, this was the first time I had had the opportunity to try on one of their products. The faux-suede looks and feels like the real thing, lacking only the supreme flexibility of the best suede. I liked the quality and superb detailing, including the characteristic copper P.W.V.C. zip and well-shaped shawl collar. Different and stylish.
JOHN LEWIS:
JOHN LEWIS COTTON FIELD JACKET £89.00 ^
Sarah: An easy to wear versatile cotton field jacket, which you can layer up with chunky knitwear whilst it's still cold, but will work equally well with lightweight trousers and t-shirts for cool summer evenings. It's a flattering shape for very slim guys as the epaulettes and pockets all have a broadening effect.
David: Another good value jacket from John Lewis, this reminded me very much of a US Army surplus combat jacket I wore while a student in the seventies. I liked the back detail and well-made nature of this jacket. Being who they are, John Lewis don't feel the need to undermine the simple design with logos and other geegaws; hooray.
Here are links to some of the other clothes that I'm wearing:
Brogues - Loake
English-made jeans - Quantock
Shirts - Tripl Stitched
Tie - Dancys
Socks - Marwood mohair
Watch - vintage Tudor Submariner
NOTE: Our next shoot, in March/April, will explore men's summer blazers, suits and jackets. Please e-mail me or Sarah if you would like your products to be considered for inclusion.
If you, as a blog reader, have any suggestions for items you would like to see featured in these shoots, please get in touch.
NOTE: Our next shoot, in March/April, will explore men's summer blazers, suits and jackets. Please e-mail me or Sarah if you would like your products to be considered for inclusion.
If you, as a blog reader, have any suggestions for items you would like to see featured in these shoots, please get in touch.
