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Grey Fox

A mature search for style. Fashion and menswear for all men.

Showing posts from category: exploration

Recreating the look: The Twentieth Century Explorer

Wednesday, 30 December 2015

I said I'd be taking time off from the blog over Christmas and New Year but, as I was leafing through images of exploration from the last century, I couldn't resist putting this one together for you.

Near my seat in the chapel at school was a plaque commemorating an old boy, Andrew 'Sandy' Irvine, who disappeared alongside George Mallory during their attempt to climb Everest in 1924. 

Irvine (left) with Mallory

Whether they reached the summit is unknown, but their courage lives on. Other famous men such as Shackleton, Scott, Hillary and those who went with them on their expeditions throughout the last century stare out at us here from gritty images recording their skill and determination.


Their look has influenced twenty first century man. Walk around the trendier areas of our cities and you'll see men dressed for arctic exploration. Massive beards, heavy brushed cotton tartan (plaid) shirts, down jackets, chunky boots and wool hats are de rigueur in many a coffee shop.

Behind the magnificent facial hair, worn so ironically by today's hipster, is an unconscious desire to display the unruffled cool of the nineteenth and twentieth century explorer, for whom bravery, team effort and success were all important. There's also a love for the traditional clothing of early explorers which was based on the clothes worn by outdoor workers such as sailors, fishermen and hunters.


These early twentieth century adventurers wore clothes which were barely adequate as protection against the elements in comparison with modern expedition wear. I spend much time on the fells of Cumbria and, when tackling a challenging walk in poor weather, wear modern walking gear. Proper wind and rain proofing, adequate insulation and light weight are essentials in extreme conditions. However, when things are less severe, I prefer to wear the wool jumpers, tweed, waxed cloths and Ventile jackets of the early explorer. Breathable, quiet, sober and stylish.

On the fells. I'm wearing vintage Norwegian jumper, Clarke's Craghoppers tweed breeches & Tootal scarf. Bag Millican.

I find natural materials more comfortable and low key than the noisy, harshly coloured, sweaty fabrics of modern climbing wear. So, where can you find the explorer look? Here are some ideas.

Shirt: Portuguese Flannel, scarf: Fraser Knitwear, Tweed jacket: Gloverall (details below)

Clockwise from top left: Tom Smarte hat, Po-Zu Sequoia boots, Gloverall tweed jacket & Fraser Fair Isle scarf,
Private White VC Lowry reversible mac, Cordings rubberised cotton mac (details below)

From top left: Shackleton Clothing Co Norwegian sweater, Crystal Knitwear submariner's roll neck jumper,
Leith Shetland jumper (details below)

Clockwise from top left: Shackleton x Cheaney Boss boots, Shackleton 'Tom Crean' beanie, English Utopia
tweed shooting coat, Tombags duffel bag (details below)

Clockwise from top left: Antarctic parka Nigel Cabourn, Classic Alpine Smock from Lancashire Pike Clothing,
vintage wooden ice axe eBay (details below)

From left: Chocolate corduroy trousers from Spoke, Fair Isle beanie from K-Knit, Mallory jacket from Nigel Cabourn

Bespoke hand-made Fair Isle sweater from Mati Ventrillon, Shetland Islands

Suppliers: (please mention Grey Fox Blog when contacting suppliers)
Tom Smarte Hats
Po-Zu ethical and sustainable footwear
Gloverall
Fraser Knitwear
Private White VC
Cordings
Shackleton Clothing
Crystal Knitwear
Leith Clothing
English Utopia
Tombag
Nigel Cabourn
Lancashire Pike Clothing
Spoke London Trousers
K-Knit knitwear
Mati Ventrillon (note that at the time of writing her order book for bespoke Fair Isle sweaters is closed due to volume of orders, try also Shetland Collection)
Millican bags
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Labels: exploration, Recreating the Look

Nigel Cabourn AW15 at London Collections:Men - 60th anniversary of crossing Antarctica

Sunday, 11 January 2015

Nigel Cabourn's AW15 collection, exhibited at London Collections:Men, celebrates the 60th anniversary of Sir Vivian Fuchs/Sir Edmund Hillary's epic crossing of Antarctica. 

(All images Grey Fox Blog)

As ever, Cabourn takes the original clothing, fabrics and accessories and recreates them in a way that makes them almost reproductions of the originals; robust, fit-for-purpose and designed for a serious utilitarian role in a harsh, life-threatening environment. 





And, of course, they're made in the UK from materials the same as (such as Ventile) or similar to the originals. No Gore-Tex here, these are natural materials, cotton or wool, manufactured to protect against cold and moisture.


See the Nigel Cabourn website.

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Labels: anorak, antarctica, exploration, Nigel Cabourn, Ventile

Alan Paine - 'English Explorer' Collection

Monday, 24 February 2014

Alan Paine's 'English Explorer' Collection was inspired by a connection with the eminent British mountaineer, George Mallory who famously died on Mount Everest in 1924 when he and his partner, Sandy Irvine, were last seen climbing towards the summit. Mallory's frozen body was discovered years after his disappearance with knitwear that bore the label WF Paine, High Street Godalming; the shop owned by Alan Paine’s father, William Paine, and the place where William founded his knitwear business in 1907. 


The 'English Explorer' Collection features updated classic garments reminiscent of those worn by Mallory on his ill-fated final expedition. Apart from this collection, Alan Paine specialise in a wide range of colourful knits of all shades and hues - for more information see the Alan Paine website.






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Labels: Alan Paine, exploration, Mallory, Mount Everest, traditional knitwear

Anoraks - The return of the mountain smock

Sunday, 6 January 2013

A man's tastes in clothes are undoubtedly shaped by the pleasant experiences of life. As a schoolboy I loved mountains (and still do). In those days, kit was in transition between cotton Gaberdine and Ventile on the one hand and Nylon and Gore-Tex on the other.

My favourite jacket was a cotton climbing smock - I've no idea what make, but Belstaff, Selrig and others made similar. It was khaki with bright yellow lining, large chest pocket and a leg strap and I'm on the look-out for another. I just missed something similar on eBay recently. If anyone has one going spare, please let me know.

Edmund Hillary and friend

Belstaff sales brochure

These vintage jackets are being reproduced, inspired by the mountaineering anoraks and smocks of the mid-twentieth century - here are a few

Fjallraven
Merrow
Merrow
Norsea Rudda
Vintage smock - image eBay
Vintage Belstaff Dalesman


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Labels: anorak, Belstaff Dalesman, exploration, Fjallraven, Merrow, mountain smock, Norsea Rudda, vintage clothes

Historical knitwear inspiration - the Norwegian jumper

Thursday, 20 December 2012

Continuing this month's chunky knitwear theme, here's some historical inspiration. We've already seen this Antarctic explorer, George Rayner's, 1920s Fair Isle socks (here). We see him here at sea, wearing his seaboots and a wonderful Norwegian jumper. There's another shot of him at the bottom of this post.

Below are some ways you can recreate this rugged Nordic sweater look. I found a vintage one recently, soft, thick and warm. I've worn it on the coldest days here in London, layered with tweed or wind-proof cotton. This combination breathes well, keeping me more comfortable (and hopefully stylish) than shapeless fleeces and sweaty waterproofs. 

Modern outdoor clothes have their place on the mountain top or Arctic tundra. I certainly wouldn't wear a thick jumper and tweeds on a British winter mountain (although climbers did so before the 1950s). But if you're not facing such extremes, comfort and style should come first. Try a thick jumper and tweeds instead.

Photo Museum Victoria
And you can recreate the look today from these suppliers (or, for vintage, keep an eye on eBay) -

Peregrine

Tails and the Unexpected
North Sea Clothing

Devold

Vintage Norwegian sweater - Grey Fox collection. Heavy and beautifully warm.
And here he is again, photographed on the Antarctic ice on Christmas Eve 1934, wearing what looks like the same trusty jumper.


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Labels: exploration, Nordic knitwear, Norwegian

Famous explorer in his Christmas jumper

Friday, 7 December 2012

This image is from the days when men were men and jumpers were jumpers. If Edmund Hillary could carry it off, so can you.

If only modern explorers could rediscover such a sense of personal style, but the demands of corporate sponsorship prefer identical logo-strewn fleeces to home-knitted individuality.

I seem to be stuck on chunky knitwear this month. Look out for the Grey Fox Christmas jumper guide next week.


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Labels: Christmas knitwear, Edmund Hillary, exploration

British weatherproof fabrics 1 - Ventile

Friday, 9 November 2012

I've mentioned British Millerain (a waxed cotton fabric) and Ventile (a closely woven water resistant cotton) before. No doubt as a result of our love of outdoor sports, whatever the weather, many of these waterproof fabrics are British-made. To many consumers, cotton has advantages of breathability and quietness over artificial waterproof fabrics.

Ventile was designed in the UK before the Second World War, when the search was on for a waterproof material made from cotton. It was used for hoses and firebuckets and then developed for Royal Air Force survival suits (for which it is still used). Here are examples of how Ventile is now used for outdoor clothing.

Ventile Private White VC mac
Nigel Cabourn Mallory jacket with Ventile patches
S.E.H Kelly Ventile mac detail
Dark green Ventile rainproof mac from S.E.H. Kelly
Nigel Cabourn Ventile Everest parka
Nigel Cabourn Ventile Everest parka detail 
Orvis Ventile shirt
Nike Ventile anorak
Nike Ventile anorak (detail)
Westwinds Airdale Ventile jacket
Joe Caseley-Heyford at John Lewis Ventile mac
Brooks Bicycles + John Boultbee, Ventile Blackwell cycling jacket
Hilltrek Ventile cycling jacket


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Labels: exploration, Hilltrek, Joe Casely-Hayford, John Lewis, Nigel Cabourn, Nike, Orvis, S.E.H Kelly, Ventile, Westwinds
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