It's nearly seven years since I last spoke to Shaun Gordon, tie maker extraordinaire, here on the blog (link below). An update was long overdue when Shaun agreed to make me a tie just before we were locked down by covid.
Some of you will have seen our meeting on Instagram Stories where Shaun made the tie for me in front of a virtual audience. I wanted to ask Shaun more about his tie-making and how he acquired his remarkable skills.
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Shaun Gordon - image by Luke Alland @TheExiledBrit |
GF: Shaun, thank you for the tie: tell me something about it; the silk and how you made it.
SG: My pleasure! I acquired this large medallion patterned silk some time ago, where the supplier advised that it was originally woven in Italy. I simply fell in love with it because of the intricate details with three different styled medallions.
The fabric itself has a life of its own because as you wear it in various lights, different tones are revealed on the burgundy ground colour. I started off making this tie by placing the fabric on the table and ensuring that the placement was accurate for the large medallions to align centrally on the necktie. The patterns are placed on the bias so that it has more endurance and movement within the fabrication when wearing the tie.
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Shaun makes my tie (images Shaun Gordon) |
Once I am satisfied, I chalk around the pattern that comprises six pieces, which includes the blade, neck, tail, tipping, keeper and pure wool medium interlining. The neck, keeper and tipping are sewn by machine. Then the interlining is placed within the flat form of the tie, ready to be folded, pinned and slip-stitched by hand. Both ends of the tie are secured with a bullion stitch to keep the tie secured together.
GF: It's some time since you featured here on the blog and I think you have become a full time tie maker since then. How have things changed for you recently?
SG: It's been quite a while! How time has flown. It's been quite the journey and a wondrous learning experience. Working with a brand as a senior designer is inevitably different from working for yourself with an incredibly small team (who I am incredibly grateful for), as the creative direction is solely yours.
The Shaun Gordon brand offers a work of art to self-expressive individuals who believe in the power of a positive self-image. I believe wholeheartedly that genuine style lies within the details, where men can comfortably express their personality through wearing a necktie, pocket square or scarf and much more.
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Wearing my Shaun Gordon bespoke tie |
GF: Surprisingly I didn't ask you how you acquired your tie making skills in our last talk. What is your professional background and how did you come to be making ties?
SG: I have over 12 years of experience as a multi-product menswear designer, working with brands such as Henri Lloyd, Timberland and Turnbull and Asser. I am a self-taught tiemaker. I was making ties before I joined Turnbull and Asser.
I started making ties when my style began to change from streetwear to sartorial, which began as an act of rebellion because I felt that I was not being heard as a designer and therefore thought what's the point of trying to fit in? So I sold all my casual clothes on eBay and used the money I made to purchase suits, hats and shoes in Portobello Market and other vintage stores. During this time I was unable to find the neckties that I liked and I used my tailoring skills learnt at London College of Fashion (University Of The Arts) to deconstruct the vintage ties and remake them.
GF: How do you see the future of the tie at a time when many men seem to be opting for a more casual approach to menswear?
SG: For men, the necktie is a classic item for their wardrobe and there won't be a point in any man's life where he will not wear a tie, whether it's to work, wedding, funeral or any other special events. The reason why historically ties have lasted so long is the meaning for wearing tie evolved over time. The tie can mean a lot of different things to each individual and that's beautiful. Yes, at this point men are wearing ties less but there is always a cycle when the majority begin to wear them again.
The completed Shaun Gordon tie |
GF: What are your plans for the immediate future?
SG: At present, expanding product offerings, which is complementary to ties such as pocket squares and other accessories. Watch this space!
GF: You're probably the most stylish man I know. Who inspires your sense of style? Do you have any particular style influences?
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Shaun Gordon by Luke Alland @TheExiledBrit |
SG: I wouldn't say I have a definitive 'Style Icon' as such but in the beginning, I was drawn to the style in the 1940s-50s era. There are men whose style has influenced me for sure like Sidney Poitier, Miles Davis, E.F Joseph, Fred Astaire, Paul Robeson, Frank Sinatra, Cary Grant and of course my grandfather Alvin Gordon. I mean the list could go on but it's important to note, that each person brings something different to me that aligns itself with my feelings of style or provokes the question of why were things worn this way? Thinking this way has allowed my own style to evolve, as opposed to exclusively following the style from a particular time period.
GF: You make ties to order and bespoke; how can people get in touch to discuss a purchase?
SG: I do. Made to order involves website visitors browsing and selecting the fabrics they wish to have crafted. They will have the options of selecting the blade width, length, weight and coloured thread to finish the tie. Bespoke, is where clients would have direct contact with myself to advise them every step of the way, which I do via phone, email or zoom. Clients and I really enjoy the personal aspect of this service. We collaboratively create a tie from the very beginning, to achieve exactly what they want. Often times this results in drafting a unique pattern exclusively for that client, where it will be kept on record for any future orders. Sometimes clients like to use their own fabrics, which are popular among wedding clients. We also specialise in customised neckties, which means crafting a tie from a beloved shirt for an example. Whatever the enquiry is, we'll do our utmost best to bring it into fruition!
With many thanks to Shaun Gordon. To get in touch, email info@shaungordon.co.uk or visit www.shaungordon.co.uk where you can browse the selection of fabrics.
Read my December 2013 feature on Shaun Gordon here. Shaun kindly gifted me the tie he made.