Debenhams Hammond & Co menswear SS14 - a collection that's developing nicely

Readers will recall my admiration for Patrick Grant's Hammond & Co menswear collection for Debenhams. Combining real style, classic cuts and designs with quality and reasonable prices was bound to be a successful formula - and so it's proved; with Debenhams delighted with the positive response that the AW13 collection received, from press and public alike.

Patrick Grant - wearing what he designs

The Spring/Summer 14 collection continues and develops the theme with a seaside look to the casual wear and more crisp tailoring for the more formal wear. There's much here for the older man because much of the content is based on classic and archive designs, but given the Grant twist to update it. Here is my selection. See what you think (I've given prices below). See Debenhams Hammond & Co.

£45

£120

£45

£40

£60

£60

  

£36

Jacket £199, trousers £100, waistcoat £75

E. Tautz AW14 at London Collections:Men - sponsored by Braun

The E Tautz show at London Collections:Men earlier in January contained the usual high-quality, tailored, British-made clothes that we've come to expect from Patrick Grant. 

The show was sponsored by Braun, who took care of the grooming of all the models (and Patrick Grant). E.Tautz. Here are some images of the show.

You may feel you wouldn't wear these clothes, but the point is that they foretell the shapes and shades we'll see on the high street over the next few years. Relaxed, comfortable tailoring, trench coats (no doubt popular this year, as a nod to their military history), strong checks, slashes of colour and the emphasis on individualism as opposed to being a fashion slave.

For quieter versions of Patrick Grant's style go bespoke at his Norton & Sons or, more democratically, his Hammond & Co collection at Debenhams, where his eye for detail can be had at very affordable prices (and see my posts here).

My Hammond & Co. of Debenhams Prince of Wales check suit

Shortly after I wrote in an earlier post about Patrick Grant for Debenhams Hammond & Co collection I was able to obtain one of my favourites, a double-breasted Prince of Wales check suit made from cloth from Alfred Brown (Worsted Mills) Ltd in Leeds, Yorkshire. 

I'm always a bit nervous about obtaining clothes online, as sizes, quality and cut vary so much from brand to brand. Luckily the suit fitted well and extra length in the legs enabled me to have turn-ups. 

Go on, smile Grey Fox!

The mobile phone image above (taken at the launch of Debenhams' excellent new menswear floor) isn't the best, but the soft cloth and slim-ish cut combine to make a suit in which I feel very comfortable. I've worn it a lot and it has shown no signs of permanently creasing, bagging, going shiny or losing its shape - hooray for British cloth. To my amazement, after a few weeks ownership, I found that the cuff buttons undo - not something often found on suits of this price (see below).

Patrick Grant has created a winner for Debenhams, who tell me that Hammond & Co sales have exceeded their expectations. This isn't surprising, Grant's eye for detail, genuine enthusiasm for the brand and his own undoubted style make him an ideal designer/ambassador for the collection. Look out for him wearing suits from the range in the new BBC series of The Great British Sewing Bee early next year (and see the image below in which, dammit, he looks a lot better than I do in the same suit).

The suit price? £299 - not a misprint. Get yours before they sell out. See web links below for information.

My previous review of Hammond & Co can be found here.

Debenhams, Hammond & Co online here.

Alfred Brown Worsted Mills, Leeds - website here.

Many thanks to Debenhams for providing this suit for review.

Hammond & Co - Patrick Grant menswear at Debenhams

Occasionally I feel I might be making some progress with my search for style as an older man. Then I see someone effortlessly exuding style wearing battered basics and my illusion is shattered.

Or I meet Patrick Grant. This master of style always seems to look elegant without being starchy. I know, because I met him a few days ago to see the Hammond & Co collection he's designed for Debenhams.

But, of course, I console myself with the thought that Grant can easily look stylish. He owns a fashion business and no doubt has cutters and tailors to cater to his every whim.

But then Grant tells me that he's been wearing suits costing £299 from his Hammond & Co for Debenhams collection IN PUBLIC and has even had compliments on them from fashion journalists who assumed they were creations from his Savile Row workshops. And you'll be able to see him wearing the same suits in several episodes of the new series of the The Great British Sewing Bee, to be shown soon on BBC.

Grant wears a Hammond & Co suit, made from British cloth

Is it really possible to look that stylish in a reasonably-priced suit? I tried on a Hammond & Co suit jackets and it worked for me. He's right - it is possible to look very stylish (after Patrick has tactfully adjusted my wonky shirt collar) without breaking the bank. The cut, fabric and details look and feel right - rather than cheap and insubstantial compromises.

How have he and Debenhams achieved this? In his presentation Grant used the word 'simple' on many occasions. Every penny has been spent on materials and fabrication. Styles are unapologetically classic - the design team immersed itself in the Savile Row heritage of Hammond & Co before starting the design process.

Maximum attention was given to a reasonable number of products, producing a carefully-thought out capsule collection through which runs noticeable themes of Savile Row-inspired shapes and styles. Colours are generally plain grey, black and navy for town wear, highlighted by splashes of mustard and burgundy. Quality of materials is good - reasonably-priced knitwear is often thin and insubstantial; this is thick and chunky. Suit cloths are silky and flexible.

This is a collection for men of any age. I would have worn most of the clothes without any hesitation, as would a young man in his twenties wanting well-made but affordable British classic styling rather than drainpipe chinos and low waistbands.

This is pure style, rather than ephemeral fashion.

Here are images of my favourites - the best of which, in my view, is the Prince of Wales check double-breasted suit (made from British cloth) worn by Patrick Grant in the picture above. There is more to the collection, which you can find at Debenhams online or at most Debenhams stores.

 

The rise of British-made menswear - E Tautz and Patrick Grant video

Some of you may have seen my post on my Guardian Fashion Blogs Network about The exciting rebirth of British menswear manufacturing. If you haven't, please take a look here as I talk about an issue close to my heart.

Patrick Grant, of E. Tautz, contacted me to tell me that much of the E.Tautz collection is made in the UK and he drew my attention to this video in which he takes a road trip around some of their UK manufacturers, seeing some great craftsmanship and products.

Here it is - enjoy! These and the others in the series can be found on YouTube. Beautifully-made, I found watching them quite moving at times, seeing the skills, honesty and modesty that's displayed by the craftsmen and women involved. They deserve a wide audience.