John Lewis AW13 - a preview - in a word, WOW!

John Lewis's Autumn/Winter 2013

Being a blogger has helped me work out what I like and don't like. British, tweedy, heritage, quality - all work for me. I recently had a preview of John Lewis's Autumn/Winter 2013 ranges (due in the shops later in the year) and, for me, they hit the spot.

I came away feeling very excited. Classics like this suit any age - and are ideal for the middle-aged man of style - I'd love some of them for myself.

British-made heritage and classics

The John Lewis & Co range continues to develop each year and includes British-made garments and fabrics from Abraham Moon and Harris tweed. For AW13 it's inspired by twentieth century explorers and contains and some beautiful chunky knitwear. There are also waxed fabrics and workmanlike shirts, including one whose pattern is based on a pack of cards found in Scott of the Antarctic's base camp (see below). 

Joe Casely-Hayford, Private White VC, Barbour, Gloverall

There are some really mouthwatering designer collaborations. Unfortunately, Autumn sees JL's last with Joe Casely-Hayford, but they have worked with Private White VC, Barbour and Gloverall to produce very tempting products. One of my favourites is a shearling and butter-soft leather flying jacket from Goodwood by Belstaff (pictured below. Chocks away! This one will fly off the shelves). 

Another favourite is Gloverall's union jack-lined duffel coat. Having owned a vintage Royal Navy duffel coat, I immediately recognised the pattern that Gloverall has used for this - taped reinforcing seams and rough cord loops for buttoning up the wooden toggles. The feeling of quality and heritage is reinforced by a union flag lining; not printed, but strongly stitched from individual red, white and blue pieces - outstanding. This coat accompanies a tweed jacket with a similar lining. I just hope there is one of these left for me when they hit the shops.

There's also the remarkable Manchester-made pieces from Private White VC. Quite honestly, I was like a kid in a sweet shop - when they come up for sale I won't know what to go for.

I'll be writing more nearer the time (we don't really want to think about next winter when this one is only just releasing its grip), so will leave you with some images to tickle your taste buds. The John Lewis and Co products come first, followed by collaborations (images below by Grey Fox).

Outdoor clothes - a very British heritage

Traditional weatherproofs are made from natural materials; closely-woven cotton such as Ventile and Grenfell or the oiled cotton used or made by Barbour, Belstaff and British Millerain. British-made, they have recently had a significant revival and been much copied. With winter fast approaching, over the next few weeks I'll look at what is available to the man of style wishing to recreate an outdoor heritage from British-made or designed garments.

Their origins lie in sailors' oilskins, canvas proofed with linseed oil, and also with the British love of outdoor activities - field sports, mountaineering, exploring, motor sport - in all weathers.

Closely woven cotton, Ventile or Grenfell, is wind and water-proof

They offer much in the way of comfort over modern fabrics such as Gore-Tex or SympaTex. While admittedly less water resistant than hi-tec materials, a cotton-based jacket is softer, more robust and quieter when worn. Its design owes less to mountaineering or rambling, so it's as wearable on city streets as on the grouse moor. I remember some twenty years ago I would wear a Barbour waxed jacket (I have it still) with my city pinstripes and highly-polished brogues. There has been a revival of this, led by Barbour's recent massive reincarnation.

As with most clothing classics there is an interesting heritage recorded in old photographs - find what inspiration you can here.

The oldest jacket in the Barbour archive - 1910

Royalty and waxed jackets

Steve McQueen in Barbour

Barbour and the Royal Navy

Che Guevara in Belstaff

October will be Made in Britain month on Grey Fox

In my search for style I've found many exciting products made or designed here in the UK - see my posts from the last week or two. As a result, I've decided to have a British-made theme this month.

I've already mentioned many British names over the first few months of this blog. Nigel Cabourn, Sir Paul Smith, Barbour, Belstaff, Harris Tweed among others - and there are plenty more (of all sizes, new and older) where they came from. All these make, design or supply clothes for the man who wishes to step out in style. Watch this space over the next few weeks.

Coincidentally, there is a Best of Britannia event in London over the next few days - visit the website here for more information. This covers every sector, from music to marmalade and celebrates British designers and manufacturers.

If you supply British-made or designed fabrics or goods, like this biker jacket from James Aubrey (more later from this company), please get in touch.

(Incidentally, the car below reminds me of a white MG I owned, down to the MG Owners' Club badge. A very British car, then unfortunately in its twilight years under the misguided management of British Leyland).

James Aubrey biker jacket - British waxed fabric

Staying dry naturally and stylishly - Barbour, Ventile, British Millerain, Grenfell

Spending a few days in the wild and woolly north disclosed a few gaps in the Grey Fox outdoors wardrobe. I have plenty of clothing suitable for climbing mountains and rambling along country footpaths, but these are mainly made artificial materials such as Gore-Tex. I have no problem with that, they are the best materials for extremes of weather. However, if the going is not so tough, they are rarely as comfortable as natural materials such as wool and cotton which are softer and more breathable. Furthermore, I don't really want to rustle like a paper bag as I walk a country path. It scares off the wildlife and makes me feel like a jolly anorak-clad rambler on a Sunday outing.

So, as autumn approaches, what is available that is stylish, breathable, quiet and made from natural materials to keep off the worst of the weather? Many of the traditional rainproof garments, made from fabrics such as cotton, were first developed here in the UK by Barbour, Belstaff, Ventile, British Millerain and Grenfell among others (many still going strong in the UK). Could this have been something to do with the British weather and our love of being outdoors walking, climbing, shooting, fishing or sport? This long practical heritage has appealed to British explorers and mountaineers, royalty and the quintessentially cool (i.e. Steve McQueen).

Here are a few examples of outdoor clothing made from natural materials (cotton or wool based) that offer stylish alternatives to more technical artificial fabrics.

[Edit: 2016 - I'm pleased to say that the Grenfell shooting jacket, a vintage example of which is shown below, has been recreated by a revived Grenfell, see here].

Barbour Sapper wax jacket

Hilltrek Ventile windshirt

Joe Caseley-Heyford at John Lewis Ventile mac

Orvis Everest Jacket - Ventile and Scottish tweed

Grenfell original Harrington jacket 

A vintage Grenfell outdoor/shooting jacket - no longer available!

Boden Biker, British Millerain waxed fabric

Boden Reefer, British Millerain waxed jacket