Fears Launches Rectangular Watch to Celebrate 175 Years

Fears Watches, who are celebrating their 175th anniversary (they have launched a book about the brand - see link below), have introduced a rectangular watch inspired by a 1930s Fears art deco timepiece. The Archival 1930 uses new-old-stock movements dating from the 1930s and 1960s which are overhauled and assembled in the U.K. 

One of the two new Fears Archival watches

I was able to look closely at the two watches recently and was impressed by the quality of the finish of dial and case. They are launched at a time when rectangular watches seem to be sought after among watch lovers. While vintage in character, there is something very contemporary about the simplicity of their styling.

I was wearing a 1930s Jaeger LeCoultre when I met Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, head of Fears, recently to see the new watches. I wasn't previously aware of their rectangular shape and it was coincidental that I was wearing a similar watch, but the fact that I was doing so was illustrative of the recent rise in popularity of the shape, evidenced by interest in rectangular timepieces such as the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso, Cartier and others.

Fears Archival watches with '30s Jaeger LeCoultre and Fears's Nicholas Bowman-Scargill

The curved profile case of the Fears Archival watch is machined from 316L stainless steel and preserves the proportions of, while being slightly larger than, the 1930s original. A ‘Vintage Champagne’ dial is set off by a contrasting polished 18ct yellow gold border and crisp black Art Deco-style numerals and minute track. The simple blued hands are solid versions of the ‘Fears’ shape watch hands and feature a central bevel with diamond polishing on either side. 

All the sizes and proportions have been carefully thought out and tweaked in order to achieve just the right appearance. In watch design it's remarkable how even tenths of a millimetre can make a discernible difference to a watch's appearance and it wasn't simply a case of scaling up from the slightly smaller vintage original (see the image below).

The 1930s original Fears (left) alongside the two new models (not exactly to scale)

Each watch has a vintage-style handmade Oxblood Red calf leather strap tanned in Bristol by Thomas Ware & Sons, Britain’s oldest vegetable tanner who created the leather for Fears’ watch straps when the original watch was made in 1930.

The Archival 1930 is limited to 175 pieces (for the 175th anniversary) and there are two models, the first of which has been donated to the Bristol Museum for their permanent collection. They differ in the movements that power them, with the two-handed Archival 1930 (136 watches) using a new old stock manual winding movement dating from the 1960s. The three-handed Archival 1930 Small Seconds (39 pieces) uses a new old stock manual winding movement dating from the 1930s. Both are movements that Fears used in the past. Each is new/old stock and has undergone a full re-build and received an upgraded mainspring to enhance reliability. 

Which would you choose? In appearance, the two-handed (far right in the picture above) is the simpler and therefore more contemporary looking. While it's obviously a personal choice, I rather like the three-hander (centre above) for its seconds hand, its proportions, the older movement and the fact that there will be fewer of them.

Priced at £3500 and £3950, these limited edition, made in England, watches are available from Fears Watches.

See here for a feature on the recently published history of Fears.

Fears Watches: a Family Brand Reborn

For the past year I've followed Nicholas Bowman Scargill (below right) as he recreated Fears, a Bristol watch brand founded in 1846 by his great great great grandfather. The business closed in the late 1950s, but was re-launched this month at SalonQP, the London-based international watch fair. Fears produces high quality wristwatches, designed in Britain and manufactured in Switzerland, just as they were in the 19th century.

Nicholas Bowman Scargill and historical Fears Watches. One of the new range pictured bottom centre

Fears' first watch, the Redcliff, is named after the street in Bristol where the business was established in 1846. It's designed for men and women and is powered by a Swiss Ronda quartz movement. It comes with a deep blue or a white dial and a selection of leather straps. Priced at £650, the quality of manufacture is very high, with a well-engineered case and sapphire crystal setting this watch apart from lower-priced quartz watches made to lower standards. Nicholas has taken elements from earlier Fears watches and reproduced them in his modern reincarnations (see, for example, the shape of the hands).

I've been wearing a borrowed watch for some time. It arrived beautifully packaged and each watch has a unique serial number. Needless to say, it's accurate, comfortable to wear and attracts admiring comments. Different colour straps are available, an effective way of changing the appearance of your watch if you buy several, and a simple system allows you to change them without tools or damage to the watch.

It's been a privilege seeing this new watch brand established. I know more watches are planned for the future and I will follow progress with interest. See Fears Watches for more information. See images of the watch on my Instagram stream.

I was lent a watch for review. This feature is not sponsored. All views are mine alone.

Fears Brunswick: Their First Mechanical Watch

It seems like yesterday when, nearly two years ago, I met an excited Nicholas Bowman Scargill to hear how he was reviving Fears, a Bristol watch brand founded in 1846 by his great great great grandfather. The last year has seen the introduction of an attractive range of quartz-powered watches, but this month marks the significant introduction of the company's first mechanical watch since its revival. Much of it is British-made, indicating a future direction of travel for this family business. 

The Fears Brunswick - Fears first mechanical watch since its revival and available from early 2018

The Fears Brunswick (named after the Bristol square which was the address of the first Fears export business) has a vintage feel, homage to early Fears cushion-cased watches (pictured second below), but, at the same time, has a simplicity that makes it look very contemporary.

The case shape is refreshingly different to the modern rather clone-like watch shape and this, for me, makes it a desirable and attractive timepiece. In the flesh, the watch is even more attractive than it appears in photos.

The Fears Brunswick (left) and an early twentieth century Fears wristwatch

Significant too is that Nicholas Bowman Scargill has made great strides towards producing a watch largely manufactured in the UK. The mechanical movement is, of course, Swiss made, but it has been decorated in the UK and the case, dial and hands have been manufactured here. Within a year or so of its revival, Fears is making watches as it would have done over a century ago. Being hand-built, the Brunswick will be made in short batch runs, the first being available in early 2018.

The clear case back allows you to see the Geneva stripe decoration, applied in the UK. The final production model will vary slightly from this sample as there will be further finishing to case back and movement

At 38mm the case is exactly the right size for a watch straddling vintage and contemporary styles. The beautifully decorated movement is visible through the transparent case back. The white dial is a nod to old Fears pocket watches and the movement is, of course, hand wound. I love that contemplative moment in the morning when I wind my watch before putting it on. If you're used to a quartz or automatic mechanical movement you may find you forget at first, but in due course you'll look forward to that moment when you power up your tiny clockwork motor. 

I love this watch and look forward to being able to try one again after its introduction early next year. Price £2850 inc. VAT. For more information, see Fears. [The price was updated September 2019].

For past blog features on Fears, click here. 

New book: 'Elegantly Understated: 175 years of the Fears Watch Company'

I've written several times here on the blog about the Fears Watch Company and its revival over four years ago by Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the great great great grandson of the founder (links below). 

The 175th anniversary of the founding in 1846 has been celebrated in a new book, Elegantly Understated: 175 years of the Fears Watch Company written by Bristol-based author, Jane Duffus with a foreword by renowned watchmaker, Roger Smith OBE.

The title of the book is, of course, apposite as Fears watches are beautifully designed: understated and elegant. The book is a well-deserved  celebration of the revival of a brand making quality British-made watches.

An example of a Fears watch; the Fears Blue

Roger Smith, regarded as the finest watchmaker in the world, comments on the book, 

"The 175th anniversary of Fears arrives at a pivotal time for British watchmaking. When we founded the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers to guide the resurgence of our sector, we immediately recognised the importance of Fears as one of our true heritage makers with a fascinating and genuine continuation of one of Britain’s oldest watchmaking families. It was therefore a privilege to contribute a foreword for this important book and I wish Nicholas and the Fears family my very best for another 175 years - and volume 2!”

The book, printed and bound in the U.K., is available through The Fears Watch Company and is an essential addition to the library of anyone interested in watches, British watchmaking or who owns a Fears watch.

Click here for previous blog features on The Fears Watch Company, its founder and some of its products.

Fears Custom: Made to Order Watch Straps and Bespoke Engraving

Since I first introduced Fears Watches to you (here) this relaunched family brand has really caught the attention of watch buyers. Now Nicholas Bowman-Scargill has introduced a Custom service to enable owners to design bespoke watch straps and have their timepieces engraved with personal messages and designs.

Fears Custom allows a Fears watch to be combined with a special strap made from early 80,000 possible colour combinations of leather, lining and stitching. Each is made to order, making it unique to the owner. The strap can be personalised with the owner’s initials and is handmade in the same Belgium atelier where the current range of Fears goat’s leather straps are produced. The straps keep the same elegant profile and are easy to change without any special tools.

Fears Custom engraving allows a crest, motto or special date to be added to the case back which effectively becomes a blank canvas. Each unique strap is completed with an exclusive Fears Custom buckle. The engraving process starts with a computer drawn design of what the client is imagining, which is then put on a ‘digital’ case back. Once this is approved, the watch is hand engraved by a Master Engraver in Mayfair, London and delivered in special all-black packaging.

Available on brand new watches or those already being worn, Fears Custom appointments are available from 20th April. Further information about the service, images of what can be created and the option to request a booklet can be found at www.fearswatches.com/fearscustom. Pricing starts at £150 for made-to-order straps and £100 for engraving.

This feature is unsponsored - all views are entirely my own.

Fears Brunswick Blue - An Elegantly Understated British Watch

Fears Watches was first founded in 1846, closed in the sixties but was then reestablished in 2013 by Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the founder's great-great-great grandson. Its first watch was quartz and it was anticipated that it would be some years before a mechanical watch would be available. In the event, however, Fears produced a mechanical watch, the Brunswick, in 2017 and it today has added to that collection a beautiful blue-dialled version, the 'Brunswick Blue'.

I saw an early sample of the watch a while ago and was struck by the sheer beauty of the galvanised blue dial. A photo could never capture the depth and richness of colour. The dial has gone through 56 processes to make and has three levels, with 2 surface finishes in which matt and vertical graining are applied by hand and a two-tone blue finish is the beautiful result.

The blue dial follows the initial white-dialled Brunswick. It has a 38mm (the perfect size in my view) cushion case, skeletonised hands, a choice of leather straps and a top grade mechanical movement with Côtes de Genève decoration. 

The watch is hand-built in the UK in small batches of 20 and is available from today, 14 November 2019, price £3,350. See Fears Watches.

This post is unsponsored.

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Fears Launches Pebble Grey Redcliff Watch

Nicholas Bowman-Scargill of Fears Watches has launched a new colour dial. The 'pebble' grey dialled Redcliff brings further understated elegance to the range. A further dial colour will be introduced later in the year as the range is enlarged. See Fears Watches for more information.

See more on the background to this revived family watch brand here on the blog.

This post is unsponsored.

Fears and Garrick Collaborate on a New British Watch

British watch companies, Fears and Garrick, have collaborated to produce a new watch, launched today. I've known David Brailsford of Garrick and Nicholas Bowman-Scargill for some years and both are united in their passion for making high quality watches and for developing British brands. They have known each other and supported each other's efforts as they grew their brands, so a collaboration was perhaps inevitable.

The resulting Fears - Garrick watch is 42mm in diameter, made at Garrick's workshop in the UK and only available through Fears. It uses the Garrick UT-G04 movement with power reserve indicator. This is hand  wound and regulated to within 5 seconds a day. The hands are the usual Fears skeleton design and the watch marries the key elements of both watch brands very well. 

I haven't yet seen the watch in the flesh, but my experience of both brand's watches is that photographs never do them justice and I'm sure that the dial, with its paper-like matte finish, will look superb against the indices and beautifully finished case.

David Brailsford & Nicholas Bowman-Scargill. The project started over a cuppa in Costa

The piece isn't a limited edition, but only 10-15 pieces can be made each year. Priced at £19,500 inc.VAT. 

Links:

Fears Watch Company

Garrick Watchmakers

Masters of Style 12: Shaun Gordon

I've known Shaun Gordon since the early days of this blog and have no hesitation as describing him as one of the most naturally stylish men I know. Many followers of this blog have bought his beautifully made ties and while, at the time of writing, he's closing that business, I know that Shaun will be back soon with another venture that makes full use of his creativity and style.

Shaun Gordon image 1 (credits below)

GF: Please introduce yourself, what’s your name, where are you based and what do you do?

SG: My name is Shaun Gordon, I am a London based multi-product menswear designer who currently handcraft neckties and fine accessories.

GF: When and how did you first become interested in style, in clothes and dressing well?

SG: I think the pinnacle point for me was when I stopped caring what people thought and decided to dress in a way which I thought would look respectable and make me feel great. At the time I was watching old golden era Hollywood films and I adored the elegance of men’s clothing and style. Then my thoughts got carried away with the inspiration of dressing in this manner. I sold all my casual clothes on eBay and used the cash to hunt for vintage clothes I could wear.

GF: How would you describe your style?

SG: Let’s see, a modern timeless sartorial approach with a vintage edge.

GF: What sort of clothes do you wear and where do you find them?

SG: I enjoy wearing tailored clothing, which for me consist of a fedora hat, shirt (relaxed or formal), tie and penny loafers or shoes. I found most of my early clothes in Portobello Market and various places in the Shoreditch area. As time went on, I purchased from renowned brands such as Ralph Lauren, Richard James, Hackett, Ozwald Boteng to name a few. So these days my style is a balanced mixture of vintage and modern clothing.

GF: Do you buy mainly ready to wear, tailored or vintage?

SG: Earlier on in my style journey it was predominantly vintage, however now I buy whatever catches my eye and feel that will complement my current wardrobe. I do have a secret wish list that I must have and will complete my aesthetic jig-saw puzzle.

 

Shaun Gordon image 2 (credits below)

GF: Please describe the main style influences in your life - past and present. 

SG: My Grandfather will always be the foundation of my style, it’s the philosophy of dressing well always as you never know who you could meet and now I have grown to believe it to be fundamentally about self respect. I am inspired by many things and to name a few; Sidney Poitier for the way he wore his clothes that reflected his personality and it shone through in the films. Early Miles Davis, although I appreciate the way his style transitioned through time and was in sync with his music. David Hockney, I love the way he uses colour within the subject’s style. Another artist who’s a personal favourite is Jack Vettriano; its beautiful to see the way he paints the drape of clothing. Cary Grant, the beautiful form of tailoring worn with that classical gentleman’s panache… there’s seriously too many to name.

GF: What are your favourite brands and stores?

SG: The brands which I appreciate are: J. P Hackett No.14, Ralph Lauren, Richard James, Edward Sexton, Eton, Turnbull & Asser, Adret, Borsalino, Lock & Co, Tom Smarte, Hat of Cain, Drakes, 282 Portobello, Crockett & Jones, Smythson, Joseph Cheaney, Mulberry, Cambridge Satchel, Churchs, Rolex, Omega, Seiko, Fears watches and probably too many I’ve missed (apologies in advance!).

GF: What is/are your favourite individual item(s) of clothing?

SG: My navy Borsalino rabbit fur fedora which goes with pretty much everything and has grown softer over the years as I have worn it. My Shaun Gordon Ivan striped tie, which consist of navy, turquoise and yellow stripe. My navy linen SB suit and green linen SB blazer by Richard James. My 1954 Omega Seamaster watch – I love vintage watches! My chocolate brown Crockett and Jones penny loafers.

GF: Would you say that your style is still developing? If so, how?

SG: I am unsure if developing is the right word, perhaps evolving in a sense that as our perspective and needs changes, we experience and appreciate clothes in a different way. And I think it is a beautiful explorational journey. My style has developed from being strictly vintage, which tends to be sharp tailored pieces to becoming more modern with a refined and softer silhouette.

GF: What skills would you say that you have that help you in your search for style?

SG: A sincere curiosity (if you can call that a skill at all) and actually wearing the clothes I had in mind. Not just looking. Once you’ve learnt what there is to know, you have to take the plunge and try things out, otherwise how will you know if it suits you? Not just in how it appears but how it makes you feel because it will inevitably affect the appearance anyway. Also, as a menswear designer I have developed a sharp eye for detail and I believe this is a skill that has helped me in my search for style.

Shaun Gordon 3 (image credits below)

GF: What are your top tips for others on a search for style?

SG: In terms of the well-dressed approach: to summarise, I would say to build the foundational wardrobe first such as your navy or black suit, white shirt and tonal coloured tie. Think classic before venturing into the wonderful world of texture and colour. With this make sure the fit is correct. What I mean by this is to aim for a ‘tailored’ fit as opposed to anything too fitted or loose. Learn everything about what would work with your stature - this will aid your selection choice of fit, cloth pattern and details, which will help you create the complementary look you want. Most importantly, have fun with it and be patience. It takes time to develop your own personal style because it is just as much as learning about yourself.

GF: Where can you be found on Instagram and other media?

SG: The various social media accounts I can be found are:
Instagram: @shaungordonstyle
Pinterest: @shaungordon
Shaun Gordon ties: www.shaungordon.co.uk (Note that at the time of writing, Shaun Gordon is closing his tie-making business and is selling his stock as generous reductions - buy now before it's too late).

Click here for more in the Masters of Style series.

Image credits and clothing information:

Shaun Gordon 01:
Photographer: RKZUK - Rikesh Chauhan
Hat: 282 Portobello
Shirt: Turnbull and Asser
Tie: Shaun Gordon
Jacket: Paul Smith

Shaun Gordon 02:
Photographer: Gahli Richardson
Hat: Tom Smarte
Shirt: Alder and Green
Tie: Shaun Gordon
Suit: Turnbull and Asser

Shaun Gordon 03:
Photographer: The Exiled Brit
Hat: Borsalino
Shirt: Turnbull and Asser
Tie: Shaun Gordon
Suit: Turnbull and Asser

Bremont x Bamford Watch Company - Another British Watch Collaboration

Two British watch collaborations within one week is a rare event and symptomatic of the steady revival of the once-great British watch industry. Coinciding with the launch of the Fears-Garrick watch (featured here) comes a timepiece from Bremont and Bamford Watch Department - the Bremont Bamford S500 Special Edition.

The Bremont x Bamford WD S500 on my wrist at the launch

Launched in a cloud of tongue in cheek secrecy with a nicely edited spy thriller-style video and graphics, the S500 is limited to 250 pieces. This (like the Fears-Garrick watch) is a collaboration arising from a long friendship between two British brands. 

Rivalry has no place in British watchmaking and it's good to see brands combining creative skills to produce watches which, like the S500, benefit from the fusion of design ideas and brand characteristics. In this case the creative skills of Bamford Watch Department give a very contemporary edge to the Bremont tool watch robustness.

Bremont x Bamford Watch Department S500 watch

The S500 sports bright blue indices which jump out against the dark black layered dial and the 43mm diver's watch case, making this a practical yet stylish timepiece. The movement is chronometer rated, with enhanced shock-proofing and the DLC-treated case is water resistant to 50ATM or 500m. On the wrist it's comfortable with not too much bulk. This is a watch that will be noticed and commented on favourably when you have one sitting on your wrist.

The watch is priced at £3995.

Bremont Watches

Bamford Watch Company