Masters of Style 15: Andrew Poupart @styleafter50

This is the last of the current chapter of Masters of Style (and I apologise that it's a week overdue). The range of style influences covered by this series so far has been satisfyingly diverse, covering most quarters of the globe, and also eclectic, ranging from vintage workwear through American preppy to dapper bespoke tailoring.

I am bringing this chapter of Masters of Style to an end with US-based Andy Poupart, who will need no introduction to many of you. Those who follow Andy on Instagram (link below) will know that he comes into the well-tailored rather than casual category as his focus is mainly on dapper bespoke tailoring. Andy and his equally stylish wife have been featured several times in The Rake and he is often in London where he is known to many of its bespoke tailors.

GF: Please introduce yourself, what’s your name, where are you based and what do you do?

AP: My name is Andrew Poupart. I live in San Jose, California, and I am a software development manager.

GF: When and how did you first become interested in style, in clothes and dressing well?

AP: I’ve been interested in clothes and style since I was very young. I always had a clear idea of how I would like to dress and I’ve collected inspiration and ideas since then.

GF: How would you describe your style?

AP: I’d like to think that I project a confident elegance. I prefer English style over Italian or American styles. But I enjoy experimenting with clothes, too, and I’m not afraid to wear color or looks that others might not.

GF: What sort of clothes do you wear and where do you find them?

AP: I wear tailored clothing for the most part, outside the house. Even when dressing casually, I will usually wear a shirt and jacket.

GF: Do you buy mainly ready to wear, tailored or vintage?

AP: I don’t buy vintage. I find RTW trousers can fit me quite well. But almost all my clothing is tailored.

AP: Please describe the main style influences in your life - past and present. 

GF: So many influences. One of the earliest that I recall was Robert Hardy’s character Siegfried Farnon in the late ‘70s BBC series All Creatures Great And Small. Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca, William Powell in The Thin Man, Robert Redford’s character in Out Of Africa, and more. In real life there are many people who I admire, such as Peter Zottolo, Andreas Klow, Erik Mannby, and others. I also find quite a lot of inspiration in the Apparel Arts illustrations of Lawrence Fellows.

GF: What are your favourite brands and stores?

AP: Favorite brands would tend to be accessories, such as H.N. White and Le Noeud Papillon for ties, Begg for scarves, Lavabre Cadet for gloves, Simonnot-Godard and Sera Fine Silk for pocket squares. Budd and Camessi for shirts, Longmire for cufflinks. Floris for cologne. Most of the shoes I wear are by Edward Green. Optimo Hats, in Chicago, for hats.

GF: What is/are your favourite individual item(s) of clothing?

AP: I would probably say my ivory, double breasted dinner jacket. I worked with my tailor to create a jacket as close as we could make it to Humphrey Bogart’s dinner jacket in Casablanca.

GF: Would you say that your style is still developing? If so, how?

AP:  For sure. My tastes, I think, are constantly changing. Some elements are consistent, others change. For instance, I avoided three-button jackets for years, but I have recently commissioned suits with three button jackets.

GF: What skills would you say that you have that help you in your search for style?

AP:  Curiosity, perhaps. I also think what looks good on me and, perhaps more importantly, what does or will not. Plus, I would say that I have the confidence to wear the clothes I want to wear.

GF: What are your top tips for others on a search for style?

AP:  I think it is important to understand fit. How clothes fit and what it means to have clothes that fit is very important. Buy and wear clothes that make you feel good about yourself, whatever that may mean, is crucial. For example, if you think that wearing a suit and tie is a chore and something to be endured, then you will project that discomfort. Conversely, if, like me, you love to wear a dinner jacket, then you will project confidence. Wear clothes that do that for you.

GF: Where can you be found on Instagram and other media?

AP: I’m on Instagram as @styleafter50

This is the last Masters of Style for a while. I plan to revive it at some point. If you wish to be featured or to suggest a suitable subject, please contact me.

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Masters of Style 14: Ahmed Sajeel @iam_sajeel

I've followed Islamabad-based Ahmed Sajeel on Instagram (link below) for some time and we have occasionally exchanged messages. From these contacts I can safely say that he is the archetypal gentleman: both polite and courteous as well as being beautifully dressed. 

Ahmed Sajeel @iam_sajeel

It's a privilege to bring you a glimpse of Ahmed Sajeel's diverse styles, from besuited to more casual:

GF: Please introduce yourself, what’s your name, where are you based and what do you do?

AS: I am Ahmed Sajeel, based in Islamabad, the capital of Pakistan. My entire professional journey has pretty much been with the automotive industry, and I am the Regional Head for the North of Pakistan, for BMW operations.

GF: When and how did you first become interested in style, in clothes and dressing well?

AS: For as far back as my memory serves me, I have been aesthetically inclined!

Ahmed Sajeel in summerweight suit

The first person I must have laid eyes on, was extremely handsome and debonair; my father. My mother met him toe to toe, as both of them were exceptionally elegant, eloquent and interested in leading full lives of kindness, beauty and style. And that went on till their twilight days. So a keen interest in all-encompassing style was only a natural outcome. 

From a very early age, my mother would encourage me to select my own clothes and in so develop my own taste, while building upon the aesthetic and philosophic foundations that they had already laid out. So while other children in the 80’s would be content with their jeans and sneakers, I would insist on putting on a tie and jacket, every time we would go out to socialize.

GF: How would you describe your style?

AS: Let us just say more old-world aristocracy / sportsmanship, than the modern boardroom.

Tailored clothing for me is an expression of self. I am a dreamer by disposition and always telling a story, or painting a picture with the day’s ensemble. One is deeply steeped in the classic menswear ideals, intertwined with less expected, personal nuances; and a strong affinity for themes and colours. For that, one draws from the nature itself, where colours, patterns and textures are strewn about in a nonchalant, fetching harmony.

The themes one alluded to, include but are not limited to nautical, hunting, cricket and other leisurely, gentlemanly pursuits, that subtly manifest themselves in ties, pocket squares, cufflinks and so on. It presents my all-encompassing outlook towards life at large; to LIVE life and revel in its beauty; and not to take clothing, myself or life too seriously.

Ahmed Sajeel in Fair Isle and cords

GF: What sort of clothes do you wear and where do you find them?

AS: I have a particular fondness for combining odd jackets and trousers in seasonal fabrics. Tweeds and flannels for fall and winter, after the British country gent, while linens, cottons and seersucker for the warmer months much in the Southern Italian or Southern American way. Thus hues and textures play a pivotal role. The attire would always be accompanied by a tie, or another suitable neckwear in less formal settings, such as a silk or wool scarf; and always with a pocket square that echoes the elements. Another idiosyncrasy involves insisting on French cuff shirt with cufflinks or cuff knots.

When the occasion does not call for wearing a suit / jacket and tie, one favours polo shirts in cotton pique, or button-down configuration and classic knitwear such as of cable-knit or Fair Isle variety. The informal clothing is complemented with trousers in cotton, linen, corduroy or denim, and often in colours that pick up the spirit of the season.

Clothes and shoes are predominantly bespoke and locally sourced through my trusted tailor of 22 years and shoe-maker of 15 years.

And whatever is less feasible as a bespoke article, such as ties, accessories and casual clothing; one can always and blindly trust Ralph Lauren to tie it all tastefully together.

Ahmed Sajeel in pinstripes

GF: Do you buy mainly ready to wear, tailored or vintage?

AS: Whatever can be tailored, one takes the bespoke route; for casualwear Ralph Lauren.

The objective of tailored clothing remains simple enough; every article is created to best compliment and complement, one’s form.

GF: Please describe the main style influences in your life – past and present. 

AS: As I waxed lyrical earlier, my father was, and remains my primary inspiration. A very well read and travelled gentleman, he would always be elegant; and tirelessly meticulous about the fit of every article of clothing he owned. While suits and jackets would be in conservative shades, there would always be a flourish, expressed through the pattern and colour in his ties and pocket squares.

Beyond that, one is particularly influenced by golden era Hollywood, specifically Mr. Cary Grant and Mr. Fred Astaire, and Sir Sean Connery’s James Bond. While Mr. Michael Douglas is notorious for the “Wall Street” wardrobe, his minimalist and immaculately tailored and carried wardrobe in “A Perfect Murder”, deserves honourable mention.

Amongst real-life style heroes, Mr. Gianni Agnelli, Mr. Luca DiMontezemolo, Mr. Luciano Barbera, Mr. G. Bruce Boyer as well as Mr. Mark Cho, Mr. Wei Koh and Mr. Luca Rubinacci cover many a spectrums of influences.

In a nutshell though, one completely identifies with Mr. Ralph Lauren’s imagery of style, and how it has remained so fresh and relevant over the decades. So achingly beautifully!

Relaxed in knitwear and cords

GF: What are your favourite brands and stores?

AS: Having wafted through many well-respected style houses, one has settled down with most all things Ralph Lauren. It’s a place where one can find everything from Rick’s Cream, Shawl-collared dinner jacket to the perfect Fair Isle sweater à la Mr. David Evans.

GF: Thank you; yes, I do love a Fair Isle! What is/are your favourite individual items of clothing?

AS: Jackets and suits. Tweeds for their rustic interplay of hues and textures, flannels for their luscious hand, linen for its textures and rakish coarseness and seersucker for its effortless charm.

GF: Would you say that your style is still developing? If so, how?

AS: One’s style evolution is very much a reflection of one’s own journey as an individual. A lived in disposition … time, stories and finding and absorbing emotion every step of the way.

GF: What skills would you say that you have that help you in your search for style?

AS: If I could be so vain as to credit myself with one stylistic skill; it would be an eye for creating visual balance in putting together an ensemble through thematic and colour-driven harmony.

And relishing dressing up every single day … purely for the joy it imparts to my person.

GF: What are your top tips for others on a search for style?

AS: Have a good time with what you decide to wear. That of course does not mean that one can sacrifice elegance at the altar of perceived comfort. Athleisure is best suited to what the name itself suggests. If anything, the relaxed fit seems to have an opposite effect of what most patrons expect to achieve. Therefore bespoke clothing is the simplest answer, as it ensures comfort through being uniquely created for one’s body and in so flatters the form.

While it is oft said that dressing well is a display of respect for those around us, to me it is as much a matter of self-respect. To quote Oscar Wilde from The Picture of Dorian Grey, “It is only shallow people who do not judge by appearances. The true mystery of the world is the visible, not the invisible”.

GF: Where can you be found on Instagram and other media

AS: Instagram: iam_sajeel  Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ahmed.sajeel

GF: Thank you, Sajeel, so much for this brilliant exposition of your style journey. I particularly agree with your drawing inspiration from nature and with your comment on not taking things too seriously!

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Masters of Style 12: Shaun Gordon

I've known Shaun Gordon since the early days of this blog and have no hesitation as describing him as one of the most naturally stylish men I know. Many followers of this blog have bought his beautifully made ties and while, at the time of writing, he's closing that business, I know that Shaun will be back soon with another venture that makes full use of his creativity and style.

Shaun Gordon image 1 (credits below)

GF: Please introduce yourself, what’s your name, where are you based and what do you do?

SG: My name is Shaun Gordon, I am a London based multi-product menswear designer who currently handcraft neckties and fine accessories.

GF: When and how did you first become interested in style, in clothes and dressing well?

SG: I think the pinnacle point for me was when I stopped caring what people thought and decided to dress in a way which I thought would look respectable and make me feel great. At the time I was watching old golden era Hollywood films and I adored the elegance of men’s clothing and style. Then my thoughts got carried away with the inspiration of dressing in this manner. I sold all my casual clothes on eBay and used the cash to hunt for vintage clothes I could wear.

GF: How would you describe your style?

SG: Let’s see, a modern timeless sartorial approach with a vintage edge.

GF: What sort of clothes do you wear and where do you find them?

SG: I enjoy wearing tailored clothing, which for me consist of a fedora hat, shirt (relaxed or formal), tie and penny loafers or shoes. I found most of my early clothes in Portobello Market and various places in the Shoreditch area. As time went on, I purchased from renowned brands such as Ralph Lauren, Richard James, Hackett, Ozwald Boteng to name a few. So these days my style is a balanced mixture of vintage and modern clothing.

GF: Do you buy mainly ready to wear, tailored or vintage?

SG: Earlier on in my style journey it was predominantly vintage, however now I buy whatever catches my eye and feel that will complement my current wardrobe. I do have a secret wish list that I must have and will complete my aesthetic jig-saw puzzle.

 

Shaun Gordon image 2 (credits below)

GF: Please describe the main style influences in your life - past and present. 

SG: My Grandfather will always be the foundation of my style, it’s the philosophy of dressing well always as you never know who you could meet and now I have grown to believe it to be fundamentally about self respect. I am inspired by many things and to name a few; Sidney Poitier for the way he wore his clothes that reflected his personality and it shone through in the films. Early Miles Davis, although I appreciate the way his style transitioned through time and was in sync with his music. David Hockney, I love the way he uses colour within the subject’s style. Another artist who’s a personal favourite is Jack Vettriano; its beautiful to see the way he paints the drape of clothing. Cary Grant, the beautiful form of tailoring worn with that classical gentleman’s panache… there’s seriously too many to name.

GF: What are your favourite brands and stores?

SG: The brands which I appreciate are: J. P Hackett No.14, Ralph Lauren, Richard James, Edward Sexton, Eton, Turnbull & Asser, Adret, Borsalino, Lock & Co, Tom Smarte, Hat of Cain, Drakes, 282 Portobello, Crockett & Jones, Smythson, Joseph Cheaney, Mulberry, Cambridge Satchel, Churchs, Rolex, Omega, Seiko, Fears watches and probably too many I’ve missed (apologies in advance!).

GF: What is/are your favourite individual item(s) of clothing?

SG: My navy Borsalino rabbit fur fedora which goes with pretty much everything and has grown softer over the years as I have worn it. My Shaun Gordon Ivan striped tie, which consist of navy, turquoise and yellow stripe. My navy linen SB suit and green linen SB blazer by Richard James. My 1954 Omega Seamaster watch – I love vintage watches! My chocolate brown Crockett and Jones penny loafers.

GF: Would you say that your style is still developing? If so, how?

SG: I am unsure if developing is the right word, perhaps evolving in a sense that as our perspective and needs changes, we experience and appreciate clothes in a different way. And I think it is a beautiful explorational journey. My style has developed from being strictly vintage, which tends to be sharp tailored pieces to becoming more modern with a refined and softer silhouette.

GF: What skills would you say that you have that help you in your search for style?

SG: A sincere curiosity (if you can call that a skill at all) and actually wearing the clothes I had in mind. Not just looking. Once you’ve learnt what there is to know, you have to take the plunge and try things out, otherwise how will you know if it suits you? Not just in how it appears but how it makes you feel because it will inevitably affect the appearance anyway. Also, as a menswear designer I have developed a sharp eye for detail and I believe this is a skill that has helped me in my search for style.

Shaun Gordon 3 (image credits below)

GF: What are your top tips for others on a search for style?

SG: In terms of the well-dressed approach: to summarise, I would say to build the foundational wardrobe first such as your navy or black suit, white shirt and tonal coloured tie. Think classic before venturing into the wonderful world of texture and colour. With this make sure the fit is correct. What I mean by this is to aim for a ‘tailored’ fit as opposed to anything too fitted or loose. Learn everything about what would work with your stature - this will aid your selection choice of fit, cloth pattern and details, which will help you create the complementary look you want. Most importantly, have fun with it and be patience. It takes time to develop your own personal style because it is just as much as learning about yourself.

GF: Where can you be found on Instagram and other media?

SG: The various social media accounts I can be found are:
Instagram: @shaungordonstyle
Pinterest: @shaungordon
Shaun Gordon ties: www.shaungordon.co.uk (Note that at the time of writing, Shaun Gordon is closing his tie-making business and is selling his stock as generous reductions - buy now before it's too late).

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Image credits and clothing information:

Shaun Gordon 01:
Photographer: RKZUK - Rikesh Chauhan
Hat: 282 Portobello
Shirt: Turnbull and Asser
Tie: Shaun Gordon
Jacket: Paul Smith

Shaun Gordon 02:
Photographer: Gahli Richardson
Hat: Tom Smarte
Shirt: Alder and Green
Tie: Shaun Gordon
Suit: Turnbull and Asser

Shaun Gordon 03:
Photographer: The Exiled Brit
Hat: Borsalino
Shirt: Turnbull and Asser
Tie: Shaun Gordon
Suit: Turnbull and Asser

Masters of Style 11: Svante Nybyggars and Friends

Masters of Style is taking a slightly different direction this week as I wanted to show an image that Svante Nybyggars (featured here on Masters of Style) sent to me showing him with two other stylish people who also have Instagram presences. The image was shot in Sweden by Mats Andersson.

To the left: Maria Sörensson aka @aginginstyle
To the right: Ingemar Albertsson aka @vintagemannen

Centre: Svante Nybyggars aka @theurbanhippieswe

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Masters of Style 10: Patrick Hall @therevdmr

Patrick Hall's Instagram account (link below) leapt out at me as he wears beautifully tailored suits, many vintage, in what seems to me to be a particularly American way. Not just US sack suits here, but also well-cut tailoring with soft shoulders, vibrant colours and checks, jackets with the top button on the roll of the lapel, spearpoint shirt collars (either button-down or worn with a tie bar) and buckskin shoes. 

Patrick Hall appears to be totally relaxed in his suits. If you are hesitating to dust off your suits post-covid, take a look at how comfortable he looks and you won't see the suit as a totally formal garment again. I asked him to tell us more about his style:

Patrick Hall @therevdmr

GF: Please introduce yourself, what’s your name, where are you based and what do you do?

PH: My name is Patrick Hall. I live in Houston, TX, where I work as an Episcopal (Anglican) priest. I am the rector of Epiphany Church, a small parish in southwest Houston.

GF: When and how did you first become interested in style, in clothes and dressing well?

PH: When I was a child, I was a ring-bearer in a wedding. I wore hired morning dress – a tailcoat and striped trousers, with a starched collar and cravat. I remember feeling elegant, solemn, and like a proper adult. I didn’t want to change after the reception concluded!

Patrick Hall @therevdmr

GF: How would you describe your style?

PH: I dress as formally as I can get away with, in an American culture where informality has become its own religious fundamentalism.

GF: What sort of clothes do you wear and where do you find them?

PH: I wear tailored clothes that run the gamut from rustic to smart. They were all procured via the Internet, or ordered directly from tailors.

GF: Do you buy mainly ready to wear, tailored or vintage?

PH: My year-round suits are evenly split between 1930s/40s vintage and bespoke orders. Sport coats are off-the-rack items of recent manufacture. All my odd trousers are also ready-to-wear. This is because my sport coats and odd trousers take more abuse. I wear them to travel, and on weekends when I am more active and outside. As a result, I am reticent to pay bespoke prices for them. These items are eventually ruined by the rigors of wear and the caprice of fate. I am also unwilling to pay bespoke prices for seasonal suits, because they are inherently less versatile, and summer suits are subject to ruinous stains due to their lighter hues. I can’t abide being out four or five figures on account of grass stains or a stubborn coffee spill.

Patrick Hall

GF: Please describe the main style influences in your life - past and present. 

PH: I came to faith as a white child at a Black Episcopal (Anglican) church here in Houston. In the United States, Black men are some of the last people keeping the aesthetic language of tailored clothes alive. I was impressed in my youth by the elegance of these men, many of whom were doctors, lawyers, bankers, and architects – they were erudite well-educated professionals with exquisite taste. Also, Anglican prayer-book worship inculcates a certain reverence towards public space, its order, and aesthetic possibilities.

GF: What are your favourite brands and stores?

PH: My bespoke suits are made by Steed, a west-end tailor who cut a drape coat, and are well known among the Internet menswear crowd, and a local tailor named Alberto Lazcano. My off-the-rack items are mostly made by Ring Jacket, Spier & Mackay, and Cavour. I have several vintage Brooks Brothers sack coats as well, and I love them dearly.

@theevdmr

GF: What is/are your favourite individual item(s) of clothing?

PH: A three-piece suit, with notch lapels, a six-button double-breasted waistcoat cut very high after the fashion of the 1930s, finished with high-waisted full trousers with deep pleats, cut from a sixteen-ounce worsted wool. Alternatively, a soft-shouldered three button tweed sack coat with patch pockets and a center vent.

GF: Would you say that your style is still developing? If so, how?

PH: At this point, I think I have arrived at what feels like me. I’m sure my style WILL evolve with time, but we are past the point in my journey where that evolution will be a consciously directed one.

GF: What skills would you say that you have that help you in your search for style?

PH: Some obsessive-compulsive tendencies.

Patrick Hall

GF: What are your top tips for others on a search for style?

PH: Think of style as a language. What each item of clothing “says,” matters less than whether, at any given moment, all the clothes you are wearing are saying the same thing at the same time. Be honest with yourself about what fits your body. Be honest with yourself about what you have the courage to wear. If an item in your closet causes you difficulty, give it away. Hone in on what feels easy to wear for you. Once you’ve identified it, work out from there.

GF: Many thanks for your unique perspective on style. Where can you be found on Instagram and other media?

PH: My Instagram is @therevdmr. All my other socials are more church-oriented, and less likely to be of interest to Grey Fox readers.

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Masters of Style 9: Nick Johannessen @welldresseddad

Nick Johannessen is well know on Instagram as @welldresseddad and for his style-related podcasts at Garmology. I had the pleasure of meeting Nick a few years ago when he visited the UK from his home in Norway and have had the  privilege of being a guest on Garmology (links below).

1: Nick Johannessen of @welldresseddad & Garmology Podcast (+ Pixie the corgi)

Nick's unique approach to personal style (he tries to define it for us below) is an inspiration for those who wish to break out from the herd and show some individualism in how they dress. He also cares a lot about the damage that fashion does to our environment and writes powerfully in support of sustainable style. His carefully considered answers to my interview questions below are typical of the cerebral sartorialist that he is.

GF: Please introduce yourself, what’s your name, where are you based and what do you do?

NJ: I’m Nick Johannessen, I live in Tønsberg, just south of Oslo in Norway, the oldest town in Norway and a Viking seat of olden times. By trade, I’m a civil engineer. In my spare time, I write a blog, Instagram and create the Garmology podcast. I’m a keen reader, occasionally make or modify my own clothes, have restored and maintained vintage Jaguars and have been in charge of a website for old Jags for almost 30 years.

I very much enjoy seeking out the stories behind things, or people, and sharing my findings with others. Hence why I started the blog 9 years ago and then pivoted into podcasting 2 years ago.

Image 2: clothing details below

GF: How has your relationship with clothes and style changed over time?

NJ: Clothes have seen three phases in my life, at least. As a teenager clothes were important as a tribal identifier of sorts, you were either one of the well-off society kids, maybe a sports kid, or one of the freaks, the outsiders. I was in the latter group, keenly interested in collecting music, creating a local radio show, and flying RC model aircraft. 

My teenage years were spent in Tromsø, a good bit past the Arctic Circle in Norway. While the largest town in the top half of Norway, there were still only around 40.000 people living there, with all the big city lights that a small town brings with it. So fashion-wise we were far from up to date! We’d read the magazines like The Face and the NME but would have to travel to Oslo or London to find the hot stuff, and travel was expensive back then. Even a pair of Dr Martens could be the cause of envy. Basically, it would be one pair of good jeans a year, one jacket and a pair of Nike basketball shoes.

I stumbled into family life at a young age, so missed out on much of the second phase of personal style development, painful as it is to word it like this. Having four kids, hectic jobs, moving around, clothes were something that got very little attention, beyond the most basic needs.

Image 3: details below

Clothes slowly became more of an interest in 2009 when I restarted my life. Some may call it a mid-life crisis, I prefer to think of it as taking stock and charting a new course. Whichever way, it was an opportunity to look at interests that previously had had to take a back seat. I had long been into vintage Jaguars, an interest that is closely aligned with traditional British clothing.

I have strong memories from my childhood of thick tweed and waxed jackets, which later on became something I went looking for. The visual and tactile memory never quite matched up though until I found an old Harris Tweed jacket in a charity shop. Suddenly the look and the heft was there, which informed my direction in that respect.

The second mission was to find a proper waxed jacket. This is actually harder today than it used to be, as whereas waxed jackets used to be more of a standard item with few variations, nowadays there are endless variations and mostly to a lower quality than 20 years ago. Luckily there is an almost infinite number of old jackets for sale, and mostly in good condition and fairly priced. As long as they don’t smell too awful, it’s mostly a case of a rewax and minor repairs to bring an old jacket back to vigour!

Image 4: details below

GF: How would you describe your style?

NJ: I think in all honesty it’s a bit of this and a bit of that, not really adhering to any clear style or subcultural checklist. A bit of tweed, a bit of country, some vintage and army surplus, good leather footwear and Japanese denim. The fun for me lies in mixing it up. Japanese magazines would likely label some of it as “rugged”, which is less down to me being a particularly macho guy, but more to do with the “heavy-duty” and longevity of the clothes.

A big part of my wardrobe though is that almost everything in it has a compelling story in one way or another. While I quite rarely bump into anyone that is remotely interested in the stories, I take great pleasure in them. It could be down to how something is made, who made it, how I came across it, or just some arcane historical minutiae that sparks interest.

Image 5: details below

GF: What sort of clothes do you wear and where do you find them?

NJ: Norway is not a great place to shop for the clothes I am most interested in, so mostly I find stuff online, or when I’m travelling. Or from trawling the charity shops and jumble sales for interesting finds! For the most part, though, it’s looking around online, at the typical auction sits, sales sections in forums, the retailers, both secondhand and new and the more recent reseller-sites where people sell their unrequired clothes. 

Online is dangerous though, as it’s very much easier to buy stuff than when you’re physically able to inspect it and try it on, and then have to pony up the readies!GF: Do you buy mainly ready to wear, tailored or vintage?

NJ: Most of what I own is definitely off the rack, though also mainly secondhand, as my tastes are more expensive than my wallet allows. In principle, I love the idea of vintage garments, but it’s really difficult to find pieces that I like and that fit me. A lot of what is available, i.e. what has survived time, is small in size and doesn’t fit. There is also the problem of finding actual interesting vintage, as much of what is sold as “vintage” is merely quite recent secondhand stuff.

I would very much like to test the water in tailoring, as it would be a unique chance to have something that really fits me well. Being of the “little teapot” configuration (i.e. short and stout) does have its disadvantages when it comes to standard sizing!

Image 6: details below

GF: What are the main style influences in your life - past and present? 

NJ: This is one of the hardest questions to answer, as experience has shown that most people tend to view their style as unique. I’m really not sure where my own inspiration comes from, though most likely it’s visual cues from sources like social media and TV. Some tv-series and films have incredible costume departments that produce very intriguing, and artfully aged clothing! Much of it comes down to textures, fabrics, stories and well, engineering and craft.

GF: What are your favourite brands and stores?

NJ: I’m not spoilt for choice when it comes to local shops, there are very few that hold any interest in Norway at all.

When it comes to brands there are a few I follow and engage with, mainly smaller ones, with a more craft orientated approach. Brands like LaneFortyFive and English Utopia are leading the way in making clothes to order at fair prices. Brands like Mister Freedom create playful and interesting recreations of a past that might have been. 1st Pat-rn from Italy makes a range of high quality and interesting garments that work well with other styles.

Image 8: details below

GF: What is/are your favourite individual item(s) of clothing?

NJ: Believe it or not, this is a really really difficult question to answer! The really complete reply would be like the Oscars results, with nominees, runners ups and winners in an array of categories. I’d even have to distinguish between actual clothes I wear and clothes that are more collectable in nature. Some of my favourite garments are things I seldom wear but find pleasure in owning and handling, more as artefacts than clothing.

Favourite piece of outerwear: The Mister Freedom “Mulholland Master” (a take on the classic motorcycle jacket, but astonishingly well made)

Favourite tweed coat: The Follifoot in Donegal tweed from Cordings (wonderful tweed and an incredibly versatile coat)

Favourite shoes: The “Coupen” boots by Rolling Dub Trio (the shape and quality is sublime)

Favourite winter boots: The “Ice Cutters” by Red Wing (don’t look good, but last forever)

Favourite waistcoat: The “Ranger” by 1st Pat-rn (great fabric and design with versatile uses)

The list could really be almost endless.

Image 9: details below

GF: A great answer, Nick - I always like to see Cordings in a list of favourites. It's a store that has been around for decades but is a hidden gem for the sartorially inclined - but back to the questions: Would you say that your style is still developing? If so, how?

NJ: I think that I’ve become better at seeing what will work with what I have and what might take things in an interesting new direction, and really what sort of looks work for me. In all honesty, I have slowed down a bit when compared to the initial euphoria from 12 years ago. As time has passed I have become more discerning, a little wiser, and a lot less willing to buy something just to hold it. Once you know yourself better, it becomes less about trying new directions, and more about developing what feels right.

GF: I certainly echo that, Nick. What skills would you say that you have that help you in your search for good clothes and style?

NJ: I’d like to say my engineering background has some influence on this, but I think it’s probably more thanks to my curious and nerdy nature. By learning some sewing skills and picking up knowledge from those that know more than me, I have enough insight into the making of clothes and fabrics to see what is good and what is not worth buying.

Style is a trickier one, as who really knows what is “good” style? To my mind, it comes down to a matter of having some confidence in your own judgement and a degree of curiosity and playfulness. Choosing to share your efforts with the world via social media is another matter altogether and one I would warn against.

GF: What are your top tips for others on a search for style?

NJ: Look around and see what you like, see if something similar works for you. Do some research into the sort of things you are interested in, so as to have more of an idea of what is actually good and worth your investment. Go places where you can actually try things on, as this makes for more educated purchases than ordering online. Don’t be afraid to go secondhand, you get a lot better value for money and there is a lot to be found.

Remember: At the end of the day you are dressing for your own pleasure, while we may think everyone is keenly judging us, the reality is that most people hardly notice (this is a reason to stay off social media, avoid the judgement of strangers). Have your own rules and don’t feel you need to follow a set code, though listen to your partner, they will often have your best interest at heart!

GF: Many thanks, Nick for the thought-provoking discussion. Where can you be found on Instagram and other media?

NJ: On Instagram as @welldresseddad on the web at welldresseddad.com and on all podcast services as Garmology (and his interview of me).

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Photo and outfit details:
1: 1st Pat-Rn jacket and vest, Oni Jeans, Lennertson shoes and Pixie the Corgie!
2: Maharishi Harris Tweed jacket, self made waistcaot, Engineered Garments Oslo pants
3: Mister Freedom Pea Coat, Work and War beanie, Oni denim jeans, Rolling Dub Trio boots
4: Tom Smarte hat, Cordings Follifoot coat, Hansen Garments trouser, Trickers boots, SEH Kelly gloves, Mister Freedom waistcoat
5: English Utopia waxed jacket, Nigel Cabourn Harris Tweed vest, William Lennon boots, Tusting bag.
6: Gloverall summer duffle, Peregrine sweater, Bucktrout Harris Tweed trousers, Red Wing boots
7: Nigel Cabourn Mallory jacket, Haar Distiller pants, self made waistcoat (repurposed Laura Ashley skirt!)
8: Left: Vintage Belstaff Trialmaster, grannymade fisherman's sweater, Oni jeans. Right: Vintage Swedish army parka, self made waistcoat from upcycled army fatigues, Hansen Garment trousers.
9: Vintage Barbour Border, Stanley Biggs sweater, Hansen Garments trousers, Trickers shoes, Curzon waxed hat.

Masters of Style 8: Robert Railton

I first met Robert Railton in the early days of this blog and we met regularly in the days of London Collections:Men when London had wonderful menswear shows before it all faded sadly away. Robert is one of those stylish types who is always being photographed as his style is unique but approachable. Here he tells us about his style journey:

Robert Railton: Image Tom Edwards Photographer

GF: Please introduce yourself, what’s your name, where are you based and what do you do?

RR: Robert Railton, Artist, residing along the corridor between East London and Southend-On-Sea

GF: When and how did you first become interested in style, in clothes and dressing well?

RR: I Grew up with the edict ‘make do and mend’, my mum made her own clothes and as a teenage ‘Bowie’ obsessed new romantic I would flick through glossy style bible ‘The Face’ setting her the challenge of bringing my two dimensional aspirations to life.

I recall fondly a full-length dog tooth coat which she re-interpreted from a ladies pattern book and a Prince of Wales plaid bomber jacket, sadly now both items are lost to sowing bee’s recycle bin!

Robert Railton 'artist, rebel, dandy'

GF: How would you describe your style?

RR: Artist, Rebel, Dandy!

GF: What sort of clothes do you wear and where do you find them?

RR: Over time I have gravitated from Kensington Market to Lambs Conduit Street via Topman Personal Shopping.

It is important to me that clothes are functional, aesthetically pleasing whilst simultaneously defining the individualism of the wearer.

Utility is the term frequently used to describe my present-day style; however my spectrum is much wider incorporating militaria, ametora and modernist influences.

GF: Do you buy mainly ready to wear, tailored or vintage?

RR: Mostly ready to wear, occasionally secondhand vintage.

GF: Please describe the main style influences in your life - past and present. 

RR: My hybrid styling is inspired by a gamete of menswear influencers including Artist Lucian Freud, L'Uomo Vogue’s Robert Rabensteiner and Garden rescuing siblings The Rich Brothers but if I had to select a single contemporary source of inspiration, it would have to be photographer/blogger Scott Schuman whose documented street style ‘The Sartorialist’ is a visual encyclopedia on how to dress well.

Robert Railton

GF: What are your favourite brands and stores?

RR: MHL, Oliver Spencer, Fred Perry, Community Clothing and Muji.GF: What is/are your favourite individual item(s) of clothing?

RR: Breton Stripes, a T-shirt for all seasons.

GF: Would you say that your style is still developing? If so, how?

RR: I’d say my personal style/image is constantly in a state of flux. Recently I’ve been revisiting my own fashion archive reviving garments once lost to the darkest recesses of the wardrobe.

The Covid lockdown provided an ideal opportunity to conduct an inventory of what I own and how I wear it as part of my underlying long-term ecological upcycling principles.

GF: What skills would you say that you have that help you in your search for style?

RR: I use one simple precedent, if David {Bowie} wore it (in Nic Roeg’s 1970’s film) ‘The Man who fell to Earth’ it’s cool!

Image by @unlimitedbyjk

GF: What are your top tips for others on a search for style?

RR: I focus on a Blue/Brown/White base colour palette supported by key signature items such as the afore-stated Breton Shirts from Armor Lux, Bass Weejun Loafers and Universal Works scarves worn all year round in both warm & cold climates.

As a rule, I avoid both oversized cuts that drown me and bold patterns which end up wearing me rather than the other way around. I prefer layers and subtle detailing to elevate my look. Simple additions like a vintage pin badge (I buy a handful every time I visit ‘The Pop Boutique’ on Monmouth Street) on a jacket lapel can lift an outfit from uniformity to distinction.

GF: Where can you be found on Instagram and other media?

RR: https://www.instagram.com/robertjohnrailton

GF: Many thanks to artist, rebel and dandy Robert Railton.

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Robert Railton

Masters of Style 7: Bernhard Roetzel

I had the privilege of meeting Bernhard Roetzel in Florence at Pitti Uomo a few years ago. Bernhard had previously kindly invited me to appear, with many others, in his 2017 book A Gentleman's Look Book and he is well known as the author of several other books on menswear including Gentleman: A Timeless Guide to Fashion. Living in Germany, he is a fan of bespoke tailoring, as we will hear below:

Bernhard Roetzel

GF: Please introduce yourself, what’s your name, where are you based and what do you do?

BR: My name is Bernhard Roetzel, I live in the country outside of Berlin. I’ve worked as a self employed menswear writer since the late 1990s.

GF: When and how did you first become interested in style, in clothes and dressing well?

BR: I’ve been interested in clothes and costume since I was a child but I got seriously hooked in the late 1980s when I started travelling to London and researching classic menswear.

GF: How would you describe your style?

BR: Originally I tried to copy English style as I saw it in London and in books and films. Later I tried to look more Italian, especially in summer. In recent years I gave up copying and started wearing my personal mixture of Middle European influences, English and Italian style. When I now order a suit from a tailor it will look pretty much the same no matter if the tailor is from England, Spain or Poland.

Bernhard Roetzel

GF: What sort of clothes do you wear and where do you find them?

BR: My suits are mainly bespoke. The oldest ones were made in Savile Row by Tobias Tailors from the late 90s to early 2000s. After that I started using tailors from Italy, Germany, Austria and Middle Europe. London tailors are too expensive nowadays and the prices are not reflected in the quality. At home I usually wear shirt, sweater and some trousers that suit the season. I usually wear a jacket when I go out. Suits are for my business or formal occasions.

GF: Do you buy mainly ready to wear, tailored/couture or vintage?

BR: It’s a mix of everything with the exception of my suits. They are mainly bespoke.

GF: Please describe the main style influences in your life - past and present. 

BR: I was strongly influenced by English films and TV serials (eg 'All Creatures Great And Small' with Christopher Timothy and Robert Hardy) as a student and also by pictures of famous Englishmen in books and magazines. Nowadays I’m not consciously influenced by anyone with the exception of people or friends wearing pieces that I own too reminding me that I could wear them again too. 

Subconsciously I am probably being influenced by others but I never look at pictures thinking, 'Oh, that’s nice, I must do that too".

GF: What are your favourite brands and stores?

BR: I’m not much of a brand or store loyalist. Twenty five years ago I loved the style of Cordings and Hacketts although their fit never satisfied me with the exception of their trousers. The only brand that still love as much as I used to love it thirty years ago is Polo Ralph Lauren. But most of their pieces are either old because I bought them in the old days or because I found them on Ebay or in secondhand stores. I love their baggy and pleated chinos in summer for instance.

GF: What is/are your favourite individual item(s) of clothing?

BR: The bespoke tweed jacket made of an Alsport Russell check by Tobias Tailors of Savile Row in 1998.

Bernhard Roetzel

GF: Would you say that your style is still developing? If so, how?

BR: Of course it does. We all change all the time. My style develops in circles, I keep going back to styles that I’ve worn before. That’s probably the power of habit.

GF: What skills would you say that you have that help you in your search for style?

BR: My eye is trained by years and years of drawing.

GF: What are your top tips for others on a search for style?

BR: You can imitate or try to be original. Whatever you do, don’t forget that there is nothing new. Clothes and our style are part of the ego, they can be a terrible burden. So try not to take your clothes and your ego not seriously. Don’t let your freedom be taken away by other people’s expectations. Dress in whatever style you like or go naked. It’s your business alone.

GF: Where can you be found on Instagram and other media?

BR: On Instagram you can find my under my name bernhardroetzel, on FB my page is www.facebook.com/gentlemanbernhardroetzel

My English blog is www.feineherr.com

GF: Many thanks, Bernhard, for sharing your style journey with us.

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Bernhard Roetzel

Masters of Style 6: Gerry Nelson @gezzaseyes

I came across Melbourne-based Gerry Nelson on Instagram where he regularly posts images of his relaxed but crisp style. He was a regular contributor to the #mylockdownstyle series and competition which I organised during lockdown towards the end of 2020 and which attracted hundreds of entrants from around the world. His Instagram grid is well worth a follow for anyone seeking casual style inspiration.

Gerry Nelson @gezzaeyes on Instagram (Image 1 details below)

GF: Please introduce yourself, what’s your name, where are you based and what do you do?

GN: My name is Gerry Nelson. I’m based in Melbourne, Australia and work as a manager in a telecommunications company. I also perform music in a duo and a trio, playing the guitar and piano

GF: When and how did you first become interested in style, in clothes and dressing well?

GN: I’ve always wanted to dress well but started taking more seriously at university in 1991 or 1992. A few of my friends at the time were interested and I started paying more attention. I was drawn to Giorgio Armani for his soft tailoring and the amazing fabrics he used. I was lucky enough to be able to get a beige Emporio Armani double breasted suit which I loved. Then, as now, it was all about the textures and colours.

Gerry Nelson besuited (Image 2 details below)

GF: How would you describe your style?

GN: Casual but comfortable. I’ve been working from home for the past two years, so I really don’t need to wear a suit or a tie unless I feel like it. Once in a while, it feels nice to put on a casual suit even if it’s just for myself.

GF: What sort of clothes do you wear and where do you find them?

GN: It’s really a mishmash of things. In winter, it tends to be tweed jackets, Shetland jumpers, flannel trousers and suede shoes or my favourite knitwear, a shawl collared cardigan. Summer tends to find me wearing drawstring linen trousers a lot of the time with a t-shirt and a light jacket. On occasion, I’ll reach for a linen knit when the days get cool. If I’m dressing up a little, I might wear a linen suit with a long sleeve polo or a short sleeve shirt. I mostly buy them online.

GF: Do you buy mainly ready to wear, tailored or vintage?

GN: Mainly ready to wear, followed by tailored clothing and then a sprinkling of vintage clothes. I’m quite lucky in that most things fit me off the rack or with minor alterations. I’ve got no issue with wearing secondhand clothing or shoes. In the right condition, they can be a bargain.

GF: Please describe the main style influences in your life - past and present. 

GN: My earliest influence would be the old Giorgio Armani look books. Later, I would try and replicate they style of certain people but with my own clothes. On Instagram @cazjl, @seealan and @drakesdiary have been huge inspirations. Some of my friends (like Christian Kimber) also inspire me in the way the put outfits together. I love rich colours and textures. I also love Japanese brands like Kapital and Blue Blue Japan. I love the work they do with indigo and other dyes. Nowadays, I’m doing more ‘originals’ than ‘cover versions’ with my outfits.

GF: What are your favourite brands and stores?

GN: My favourite brands/stores are Christian Kimber, Modern Classic and Drake’s. The first two are in Melbourne and Drake’s, of course, is all over the world. I’ve been to both Christian Kimber stores and Modern Classic in Melbourne many times but only had the pleasure of visiting the Drake’s store in Tokyo. I hope to be able to visit the original store in London one day.

Other brands I like are Informale and Engineered Garments for casual wear, William Lockie for shawl collared cardigans, Inis Meain for Aran knitwear and Jamieson’s for Shetland knitwear

Gerry Nelson's relaxed style (Image 3 details below)

GF: What is/are your favourite individual item(s) of clothing?

GN: I have a few (!): Any of my shawl collar cardigans made by William Lockie
Christian Kimber Riviera knit (think of the short sleeved Italian knitwear in The Talented Mr Ripley), Christian Kimber white band collar shirt, Inis Meain linen knits, a green Donegal tweed suit, an Engineered Garments Field Parka, Edward Green Dover split toe derby shoes, Christian Kimber tobacco suede unlined loafers, Informale drawstring linen trousers.

GF: Would you say that your style is still developing? If so, how?

GN: Absolutely! I’m not experimenting as much these days. If I do, it’s with clothes that I already have rather than new pieces. I feel like I’ve gotten to the point where my wardrobe is extensive and covers every occasion with my lifestyle. My style is developing in smaller steps these days with tweaks rather than major changes. A look through my Instagram feed will give you a good idea of how things have changed.

GF: What skills would you say that you have that help you in your search for style?

GN: I think I have a good eye when it comes to colour matching, for the most part. I’m also not too fussy about the fit. I’ll try to make things work. If I really can’t make something work with my wardrobe then it gets sold or donated. I’m very persistent when it comes to finding a piece to fill a particular gap in my wardrobe. I also have a very good idea of how I will coordinate something before I buy it and it usually turns out well

GF: What are your top tips for others on a search for style?

GN: Don’t be afraid to try different styles. Try to be objective to see whether something works well for you. Expect that not everything will work. When you’re buying something new, have an idea of where it will fit in your wardrobe, i.e. what you’ll wear it with. Some things will only work for one outfit but if you’ve though about it, you’ll know that from the start.

GF: Where can you be found on Instagram and other media?

GN: I am @gezzaseyes on Instagram and can be found on Tumblr at https://gezzasmenswear.tumblr.com/

GF: Many thanks, Gerry, for this fascinating glimpse into your style.

Image 4 details below

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Outfit Details:

Image 1: Ivory Shawl Cardigan
Shawl Cardigan – The Armoury (made by William Lockie)
Shirt, Bandanna – Drake’s
Trousers – Chad Prom
Boots – Trenery
Linen Knit

Image 2: Green Tweed Suit
Shirt – Drake’s
Waistcoat – Man 1924
Suit – P Johnson (Caccioppoli green tweed fabric)
Shoes – Edward Green Dover
Band Collar Shirt

Image 3: Shirt – Christian Kimber
Trousers – Informale
Unlined suede loafers – Christian Kimber

Image 4: Linen knit – Inis Meain

Shirt, Trousers – Drake’s
Belt, Shoes – Christian Kimber