Ernest Journal - for the curious, adventurous and creative

The print media are having a hard time under the onslaught of digital. To be successful, periodicals must have outstanding content, appeal to a wide readership and have an online presence offering extra and linking with social media. The Ernest Journal does all these things.

Ernest Journal aims at curious, adventurous gentlefolk who appreciate craftsmanship, which sounds like most interesting people I know. It succeeds: it's full of good writing and excellent, fascinating information. It's for the traveller and lover of history, science and tradition. 

It offers a daily online blog, a bi-monthly online iPad journal, a bi-annual printed edition and a shop where you can buy limited edition prints and more. This is a periodical for everyone and I highly recommend it. Ernest Journal.

Rampley & Co pocket squares: Macclesfield silk

One of the pleasures of curating this blog is coming across another young, entrepreneurial, British menswear business committed to manufacture in the UK. Rampley & Co fits this mould, making a variety of pocket squares from Macclesfield silk and other materials, such as Harris tweed.

They have produced several designs and it initially was their Fine Art Collection that caught my eye. Developed in collaboration with the Tate in London, they reproduce dramatic works of art by John Singleton Copley, J.M.W. Turner and John Martin (seen in that order below).

The Death of Major Peirson 6 January 1681 (at the Battle of Jersey)

The Battle of Trafalgar, as Seen from the Mizen Starboard Shrouds of the Victory

The Destruction of Pompeii and Herculaneum

The squares are made of high quality silk with hand-rolled edges and are ideal for folding or stuffing into your top pocket. At 42cm square, they are an ideal size, not too small, not too large. The benefit of a large, colourful and irregular pattern, such as these, is that you can fold it in many ways to create a wide variety of top pocket looks.

There is much more to come from Rampley & Co. This collection and others can be found on their website here.

Recreating the look - Steve McQueen relaxes in a camel jumper

The blogger's standby for style posts of this sort is Steve McQueen. His clothes are never complicated and he always looks stylish and relaxed. This is his secret, of course. Achieve a simple look and carry it off unselfconsciously. Suppliers' details below.

Suppliers
Albam

Sander & Sanders 

Tripl Stitched

Spoke

Quantock Clothing - jeans made in England

It's always a pleasure to report on British-made denims. These jeans are made in England for Quantock Clothing. As of May 2016, Quantock are offering a £16 discount on these jeans with the discount code GREYFOX - see link below.

The denim is robust but not harsh, the fit is ideal, slim, but not too so and the waist is comfortably-placed: you won't feel like an inmate of the US penal system with the them hanging somewhere around your lower backside, as is too often the case.

They are designed and made in England from Japanese selvedge denim woven on looms for a tighter and denser weave by the Kuroki Company in Okayama, Japan. There are two styles to chose from - rinse washed (or indigo jeans), or classic stonewashed finished. Highly-recommended. See Quantock Clothing.

Loake: a visit to their Kettering factory

I recently visited Kettering to see the Loake footwear factory. As a blogger, I've had the privilege of visiting several factories around England and Scotland. All were similar in many ways: the smell of oil, the sounds, the ordered but well-worn furnishings and machinery, the quiet focus of the workers, their enthusiasm and care and the breathtaking expertise shown in those quick, deft movements used by those totally familiar with their work. 

All were proud of their work, from managers, owner, designers to those working on the factory floor. All were gratifyingly busy and it's good to see the continuing growth of British fashion manufacturing.

I own three pairs of Loake, all made on last 024/F, which just suits my foot shape. It was interesting to be shown the last on which these would have been made (pictured above).

Loake has been a family business since 1880 and I spent time with Andrew Loake, whose great-grandfather opened the factory. Loake is almost the only shoe factory left in Kettering. Andrew's father remembered when there were at least thirty footwear factories and associated tanneries and industries in the town. One other has recently opened up; a sign, hopefully, of the world-wide growth of British-made menswear.

Shown round by Factory Manager Brendon Drage-Dawes, I watched as shoes were made from the first cutting of the leather, to the construction of the Goodyear-welted soles and uppers around the last and on to the finishing and polishing before packing and despatch. 

The size of the factory surprised me, but each shoe goes through some 230 stages during the manufacturing process. Much of the work is done entirely by hand to remarkable tolerances by highly-skilled and experienced men and women. 

Seeing the processes drives home the sheer quality of the product. These are shoes made to last; a synthesis of high quality materials and 300 year-old tried and tested construction methods. There are no cheap gluing techniques, only processes designed to make a durable and comfortable shoe.

Increasing capacity is given over to refurbishing of shoes for the large number of customers who send them in for repair. What they get back is virtually a new shoe, re-heeled, re-soled and polished.

Loake has a factory in India, to which they send components which are made into shoes (designed in Kettering) to similar quality to those made in England. This enables them to offer a lower-priced shoe of good quality to those looking for this rather than a full-British-made shoe. The company believe that it is important to be totally transparent about the origin of their shoes, as Andrew Loake discusses in this article on the Loake website.

As with all my factory visits, I came away fired with enthusiasm for the quality of British manufacture. But 99% of the footwear we buy in Britain is made abroad. Hopefully I can instead persuade you to try a piece of British-made craftsmanship.

For more about Loake, or to buy their shoes or find a local stockist, see the Loake website.

Selfridge's Bright Old Things, The Whitworth Art Gallery: Anne Karpf & Grey Fox in conversation

Well, I'm delighted to be considered both old and bright enough to be invited to take part in Selfridge's Bright Old Things initiative, celebrating the older person's capacity to take on new roles in later life. On Thursday 19th February I will be in conversation with Anne Karpf at The Whitworth Art Gallery, Manchester. 

The event is part of the Whitworth's re-opening after a refurbishment which has transformed the gallery. In a collboration with Selfridges and to celebrate Bright Old Things, the Whitworth has also taken up residence at Selfridges, Exchange Square, Manchester, with a specially commissioned exhibition featuring artists who found success in their later years.

Curated by Dr. Maria Balshaw, Director of the Whitworth and Manchester City Galleries, the exhibition showcases the creative energy of a selection of renowned artists, including esteemed photographer Johnnie Shand Kydd and fashion designer turned award-winning science and art practitioner, Helen Storey.

To find out more, or to buy tickets to the events, click here.

Selfridges Bright Old Things

The Whitworth
And see and buy products designed by Bright Old Things at Selfridges.

Lavenham jackets, made in England

Entering its forty-sixth year, Lavenham can claim to be on the proud list of classic British clothing manufacturers. Starting in 1969 making quilted horse blankets, it branched out into country clothing; the quilted waistcoats and jackets, much loved by the riding and country set. But things have developed further and the company has had collaborations with Kenzo, Look Mum No Hands, Hackett and others. New owners, Fred Perry, see a worldwide market for the brand and it's good to see another British manufacturer taking such an ambitious approach.

Always keen to support British menswear companies, I tried one of their jackets, choosing something a little different from their usual offering of stylish nylon quilted coats. The Harlow is faced with British tweed. Modelled on a blazer shape, it has patch pockets, a quilted lining and a soft-shouldered and generous cut that makes it both comfortable and practical to wear with layers in cold weather. A good alternative to a pea coat or waxed jacket, it retails at £243 (reduced from £325) and, like the rest of the range, is made at their Suffolk factory.

I've found that this jacket is now the first thing I reach for if there is a chill in the air. I'd like to have seen internal pockets for wallet, phone etc, but this isn't a deal breaker for me. This is a versatile coat, which I've found to be very much at home on city streets or in the country. 

If, like me, you like to watch videos of how things are made, you may like this one:

Lavenham is proud of its British heritage and its origins in the equine world of Suffolk. As with so many brands that started by making practical, working products, the result has been clothes that are well-tested in use and with the addition of a bit of stylish design, have translated successfully into an attractive collection that's a little different and fun to wear. British materials are used wherever possible and design and manufacture are kept in-house. I hope that, under its new owners,  Lavenham preserves the very English nature of the brand.

See Lavenham to find out more, or to buy.

Joseph Turner: Grey Fox sponsors

Joseph Turner is a clothing company based in Thirsk that wears its Yorkshire heritage with pride. Their clothing is made from the finest fabrics, sourced from local mills and spinners and family businesses wherever possible. They have an extensive range of both men’s and women’s clothing from nightwear to formal shirts to outerwear. They also have premium brands such as Loake shoes and Hunter wellies..

I'm grateful to Joseph Turner for sponsoring Grey Fox Blog by paying for an advertisement on the right. Please click on the advert or visit Joseph Turner to browse or to buy.

The Personal Barber - a service to help you enjoy your shaving

I recently switched from modern multi-blade razors to a traditional safety razor. Finding that multiple blades were skidding ineffectively over my skin, I bought a cheap Wilkinson safety razor with five double-edge (DE) blades in search of a closer shave.

I have to say that it has transformed my shaving. However, as confidence grew, I wanted to try a better razor and a wider range of blades and shaving products. The I discovered The Personal Barber who send a box (as shown below) which provides all you need to get started with a traditional safety razor. This is followed by a monthly box with replacement blades and samples of shaving soaps and products such as oils, colognes, soaps and pre- and after-shaves.

With the first box The Personal Barber gives excellent advice for the inexperienced double-edge blade shaver. One thing I learned was that different brands produce slightly different blades. Having tried Wilkinson and Derby Extra blades, I've found that the latter suit me better, being sightly less aggressive and lasting a day or two longer. Double-edge blades last for 5 to 7 shaves. This is less than multiple blades, but a DE blade can cost well under 10p each if bought in bulk, while multiple blades can cost £1 each.

Bradley Jones of The Personal Barber tells me that,

"The underlying aim of The Personal Barber is to get people to enjoy the act of shaving itself rather than seeing it as a daily chore. Wet shaving tends to be a far more enjoyable experience, I believe, because it is more of a ritual and because it requires technique. The ritual of wet shaving is very calm and satisfying which can be needed in the morning. The technique involved in wet shaving such as building a thick lather, holding the blade at the right angle, applying the correct level of pressure etc means it doesn't become a mindless task which can be the case when using plastic cartridge razors. I've found that most wet shavers look forward to shaving because of these two reasons but particularly because they enjoy the process of getting better and better as time goes on."

I have to say that I now agree with him. Go to The Personal Barber for more information. For  20% discount for life, quote code SMOOTHSHAVE4LIFE20.

Dressing for a date: advice to a man

This is the long-awaited conclusion to a series I wrote last year, with much help from female readers and from the blog's own Sarah Gilfillan. It followed many complaints from women about the lack of effort made by men (older men in particular) on dates. 

The complaints are discussed in the previous blog posts on internet dating, for which, click here. The solutions the the problems discussed are self-evident, but below I've set out some Grey Fox pointers for the older man dating in middle age or later.

Dressing and preparing for a date:

1. Show that you care by demonstrating that you've tried hard with your appearance. You may not always get it right - the woman won't be expecting David Gandy - it's the effort and the thought that counts.

2. The same goes for the photo that you use online. Don't use an image of you in your budgie smugglers on the beach last year, from your employers' website, or picking up your degree certificate 20 years ago - select a photo that shows you as you are now in smart but casual clothes. 

3. Wear smart, good quality, clean and, above all, well-fitting clothing - jackets, good quality knitwear. Go for smart casual with style. 

4. Avoid busy, mismatching clothes. If in doubt, select plain, well-cut styles. 

5. Accessories can add to a stylish look, showing that you've thought about your appearance. 

6. Soft tactile fabrics go down well.

7. Wear good shoes. Poor or dirty/worn footwear will spoilt any look. 

8. If you go for jeans, wear dark raw denim that fits well and isn't artificially distressed. 

9. Good grooming is essential. Clean, scrubbed, smelling nice, minimal excess hair. 

10. Are your teeth well looked-after and clean? If your breath smells, visit a dentist, get advice, use a breath-freshening mouthwash such as the excellent Ultra Dex.

11. If in doubt, get style advice from a knowledgeable friend, a stylist like our own Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab or read a good men's style blog like Grey Fox Blog. 

12. Make an effort; you can be sure that your date will have done. Show self-respect, and respect for her, by trying your best. It's not my place to tell you how to behave during the date, but show interest, ask questions, don't just talk about yourself. 

13.Enjoy yourself! 

Finally, I want to add the anonymous comments of a female reader of Grey Fox Blog. Read, learn and digest:

"We all want to be loved for being ourselves, but if you don't love and respect yourself first then how can you really love and appreciate someone else, let alone be able to bring something meaningful to a relationship, especially as you get older? I'm not talking vanity here, just simple respect for self. 

The way we dress in part reflects all of the above, and one of the benefits of getting older is the feeling of freedom to wear what you want, when and where you want. Knowing that mini skirts are sadly long gone, you don’t have to slavishly follow fashion, but can now wear your personality on your sleeve - what suits you. 

If someone neglects their appearance (and it needn't involve big expense, often more time) it's a real turn off on especially on a date. I immediately think, 'nursemaid'. 

No-one’s perfect but it’s important to make the best of what you have and a well dressed man or woman is a joy to behold! It’s just common sense.

.

PS My sister who’s in her late 60’s and travels a lot, often in a shocking pink wool coat, gets so many positive comments from all sorts of people. Mostly around, ‘You’ve bought happiness to my day."

Come on guys, follow Grey Fox and you’ll get it right!"

With many thanks to Sarah Gilfillan, Ste Johnson, talented illustrator, who produced the images and the many readers who helped with this piece.

British Boxers - Grey Fox sponsor and a 20% discount for readers

I've followed the growth of British Boxers from early in the business's existence, having featured them first in 2013. I'm delighted and proud to see their cheeky advertising on Grey Fox Blog and am grateful to Deborah Price (pictured below hard at work on a photo shoot) for sponsoring the Blog. Please click on the advert to the right to see her wonderful range (much made in England) of men's boxer shorts and well as sleepwear for men and women.

See British Boxers and read the blog to see the remarkable story behind the brand. Deborah is offering a 20% discount to Grey Fox Blog readers with the code GREYFOX. This offer expires at midnight on 31st May 2015.

Richard James AW15 - wearable menswear with style

I always look forward to the Richard James show at London Collections:Men. While there's always something new and different, his menswear is wearable and ideal for a man of any age as it's so rooted in the classic; as you'd expect from Savile Row.

The collection finds inspiration in the Transandine Railway, constructed with British engineering assistance in Chile at the end of the 19th century.

Cutting through sheer mountainsides and dizzying drops, the railway runs through a dramatic landscape, the people and colours of which inspire the hues and styles of the collection.

Granite, earth grey and earth browns are set off with bright sky blues, red, yellow, turquoise, derived from the costumes of the Inca heritage of the area.

As you'd expect, materials are of the highest quality: flannels, Saxonies, prints, denim are among those used so effectively.

For me, the collection demonstrated the wide range of wearable style and fabrics available for men of all ages to wear. For more information, and to see the current collection, visit Richard James.

Crisp black and white

I visited tailor Susannah Hall shortly after London Collections:Men. She showed me bunches of beautiful fabrics from Johnstons of Elgin which contained one of my favourites, a Prince of Wales, or Glen check. I also saw a limited edition black knitted silk tie, specially made by Augustus Hare. Inspired by the many monochrome geometric checks on display at LC:M, we put together this image of black and white crispness. 

Just imagine yourself in the check suit with this shirt and tie and a pair of smart, Northampton-made shiny black Oxford shoes. I'm sorely tempted.

Shirt, made in the UK, from Susannah Hall (£95).
Prince of Wales check suit fabric, made in Scotland by Johnstons of Elgin (for tailoring prices contact Susannah Hall).
Knitted silk tie made in Italy, by Augustus Hare  (Limited edition £70 at Susannah Hall).

Realm & Empire menswear: Grey Fox sponsors

I'm grateful to Realm & Empire for sponsoring the blog by advertising in the column to the right.

Realm & Empire is a British brand that finds inspiration in historical menswear. Searching the archives of the Imperial War Museums, they have created a collection that takes details and from vintage garments, photographs, documents and artefacts. 

Realm & Empire SS15

I'd be grateful if you would click on their advertisement to the right to browse their website and to show support for this blog and its sponsors. You can read my previous post on Realm & Empire here in which I review one of their British-made products.

Loake shoes made in England - a video

Last week I visited Loake Shoes in Kettering. I'll be reporting on a fascinating visit soon. Meanwhile, here's a video that shows some of what I saw - British shoemaking at its best. 

For more information, or to buy from their wide range of men's shoes, go to Loake.

Book review: Denim Dudes by Amy Leverton pub. Laurence King

The claim that older men shouldn't wear denim is, of course, nonsense. Denim has been around longer than any of us and no generation has exclusive right to it. A new book, Denim Dudes, by Amy Leverton and published by Laurence King this month, confirms this. Rarely have I seen so many stylish older men wearing double denim; the style police will be reaching for their smelling salts. 

The excellent portraits, shot by a team of photographers, show how widely denim appeals to men of all ages and world-wide: the book's coverage ranges from the US, through Europe, to Japan and Australia.

Denim styles too are diverse. Best battered, often vintage, generally blue, usually unpatterned and always found in a wide range garments and shapes. The attraction of the material is obvious, with links to work-wear, rebellion and informality, denim melds youth and age, appealing to a wide range of independent thinkers. This is style, not fashion. As such denim gets my vote and I highly recommend this book.

This book is for all who have ever worn a pair of jeans, or a denim shirt or jacket. The author, Amy Leverton, is a denim expert who is Director of Denim and Youth Culture at the trend-forecasting website, WGSN. See Laurence King for more information.

Private White V.C: Grey Fox welcomes its first advertiser

Grey Fox Blog has now been going for over three years. It has been a fun and engrossing pastime, but I'm now welcoming sponsors and advertisers to enable me to pay for improvements to the blog both for you, the readers, and for the businesses I feature.

I'm delighted to welcome one of my favourite British-made menswear brands, Private White V.C., as the first paying advertiser on the blog. Please support them by clicking on their advert in the right hand column of the blog. Click here to see their new Spring/Summer 2015 collection.

Brutus looks after things on Grey Fox's visit last year to Private White V.C.

I welcome advertisers. According to Google Analytics, Grey Fox now attracts nearly 13,000 users a month with around 48,000 page views. The readers are loyal and I'm told by brands featured here that an unusually high proportion of clicks through to their sites result in sales.

For the reader, content will be unaffected by advertising. Sponsored posts are marked as such. Editorial decisions about which brands to write about are mine alone. I write about what I like; this is after all my search for style.

Please stay in touch - greyfoxblog@gmail.com 

Timothy Everest: a glimpse of AW15

Timothy Everest is a tailor I've only mentioned in passing so far on Grey Fox. I'll be putting that right this year, which is the the twenty fifth anniversary of the label. Meanwhile, here is a video of his AW15 collection. It's some months ahead, but there are some nice details. I'll bring you more when I've seen the collection close up.

The ready-to-wear collection is dubbed 'Tailored Casual' and no doubt that is precisely what it is. There'll be British fabrics like Harris tweed, British Millerain and Ventile (is that still a British fabric?), Japanese chambray and selvedge denims. It all sounds very promising. Watch this space. 

Meanwhile, click to see what else Timothy Everest has to offer.

Catherine Aitken - Harris tweed bags and accessories made in Scotland

Catherine Aitken's studio is in Leith, Edinburgh, where she creates bags, scarves and other accessories for both men and women from Harris tweed and other high quality materials. Catherine sent some of her products for me to have a look at. All are beautifully-made. 

I love bags made from tweed. As a material, it's strong, comfortable and the colours go with anything. The duffel bag is robust, comfortable to use and well-designed.

For more information and to buy, visit Catherine Aitken's website and blog. To see her collection of men's bags and scarves, visit here.