The Personal Barber - monthly traditional shaving goodies

I've received another monthly box from The Personal Barber containing two packs of single blades (from Egypt and Russia), two shaving soaps, shaving oil and some wipes.

The pack arrived after five days without a shave, as I had been considering growing a beard. The idea came to nothing and I was wondering how easy it would be to shave off a five-day stubble. I needn't have worried. After a good soak in hot water, I used the shaving oil from Good Day Organics to soften and lubricate the beard. I then lathered on the Mint and Tea Tree shaving soap. A Derby Extra blade (which arrived in my first box from The Personal Barber) easily sliced through the hairs with neither hesitation, nor a pull, nor a nick. If I hadn't been a perfectionist, I could have got away with a single pass of the razor. 

These are impressive products which add to the pleasures of a traditional wet shave: and it's fun to try out so many different blades, oils, soaps and unguents. The Personal Barber. And see my previous post for a discount code.

Thomas Clipper launch second successful Kickstarter campaign - traditional shaving products

Within a few days of launching their second Kickstarter campaign, Thomas Clipper, who deliver traditional shaving products to your door, have spectacularly exceeded their original financial target. 

Unfortunately I was out of London and couldn't make the Kickstarter launch party last week, but I followed developments with interest. Thomas Clipper launched last year after an initial Kickstarter campaign and quickly established themselves in a fascinating growing market as men appreciate the benefits and advantages of traditional shaving techniques.

Thomas Clipper supplied me with a superb single-bladed razor (the 'Mark K', left in image above) a few weeks ago. British-made, its weight and balance are perfect for a wet shave. Products like theirs have converted me to the benefits of traditional shaving and my multi-bladed razors were binned a month or two ago. Their shaving bowl (pictured above) exemplifies their approach; beautifully-made, its wood came from a felled horse chestnut tree planted in 1710 and recently blown down in a gale. With good quality oils, creams, soaps and colognes, shaving is becoming pleasurable again.

You can read about and support Thomas Clipper on their website and on also Kickstarter.

The Personal Barber - a service to help you enjoy your shaving

I recently switched from modern multi-blade razors to a traditional safety razor. Finding that multiple blades were skidding ineffectively over my skin, I bought a cheap Wilkinson safety razor with five double-edge (DE) blades in search of a closer shave.

I have to say that it has transformed my shaving. However, as confidence grew, I wanted to try a better razor and a wider range of blades and shaving products. The I discovered The Personal Barber who send a box (as shown below) which provides all you need to get started with a traditional safety razor. This is followed by a monthly box with replacement blades and samples of shaving soaps and products such as oils, colognes, soaps and pre- and after-shaves.

With the first box The Personal Barber gives excellent advice for the inexperienced double-edge blade shaver. One thing I learned was that different brands produce slightly different blades. Having tried Wilkinson and Derby Extra blades, I've found that the latter suit me better, being sightly less aggressive and lasting a day or two longer. Double-edge blades last for 5 to 7 shaves. This is less than multiple blades, but a DE blade can cost well under 10p each if bought in bulk, while multiple blades can cost £1 each.

Bradley Jones of The Personal Barber tells me that,

"The underlying aim of The Personal Barber is to get people to enjoy the act of shaving itself rather than seeing it as a daily chore. Wet shaving tends to be a far more enjoyable experience, I believe, because it is more of a ritual and because it requires technique. The ritual of wet shaving is very calm and satisfying which can be needed in the morning. The technique involved in wet shaving such as building a thick lather, holding the blade at the right angle, applying the correct level of pressure etc means it doesn't become a mindless task which can be the case when using plastic cartridge razors. I've found that most wet shavers look forward to shaving because of these two reasons but particularly because they enjoy the process of getting better and better as time goes on."

I have to say that I now agree with him. Go to The Personal Barber for more information. For  20% discount for life, quote code SMOOTHSHAVE4LIFE20.

Friday Favourites: Cock & Bull waistcoats, Carlo Pazolini shoes, Headblade body shaver

Cock & Bull

I've featured Cock & Bull here before in the context of their British-made men's underwear. They have now put together a collection of tweedy waistcoats, caps and cufflinks for men. 

Made entirely in the UK, the collection uses Breanish Tweed’s distinctive range of tweeds handwoven on Scotland’s Isle of Lewis. ​The linings are a sumptuous blend of durable hemp and luxe organic silk. The caps’ linings are a colour somewhere between a royal purple and a Cabernet wine, while the waistcoats’ backs are a dark chocolate.

For more information, see their website, or visit us in their London store at 30 Cheshire Street (off Brick Lane), Shoreditch, London, E2 6EH.

Carlo Pazolini

Carlo Pazolini are makers of Italian shoes and accessories. I've been trying these Derby brogues and they're stylish and comfortable. Priced at £295, I like the combination of shiny and matt leather on the uppers, giving a subtle twist to an otherwise conventional black brogue.

Available from Carlo Pazolini.

Headblade body shaver

I was so intrigued by this next Friday Favourite that I had to accept an offer to give it a try. The Headblade body shaver is principally for shaving heads, but is also sold as a face and whole-body shaver. It looks like a little toy car, its quadruple blade at one end and two wheels at the other. The blade runs on suspension so that it runs comfortably over the skin. The kit comes with a mildly mentholated shave cream.

I didn't go as far as shaving my head to test the Headblade, but it has many glowing reviews from those who use it for that purpose. As a facial shaver, it was more than adequate.

To buy or to see a list of retailers around the World, go to the Headblade website. For videos showing how it works, click here.

Cornerstone - British-made shaving products on subscription

The idea of having your razor, replacement blades and other shaving products delivered when you need them is an attractive one - but the products have to be up to the task. A year ago I was asked to review such a service (based in mainland Europe) and was sent an inadequate razor and blades that couldn't manage my beard without much re-shaving. I refused to cover it on the blog until it had been improved.

So it's good to find a quite different service, based here in the UK, that has got it right from the start. Cornerstone provides a good quality products that work, when you need them, on subscription. Started in June of this year by young entrepreneur, Oliver Bridge, the range includes gels, balms and scrubs developed by dermatologists. The razor (personalised with your initials, GF for me) is an attractive aluminium one which is well-balanced and whose blades easily managed my tough stubble.

It's good to see that, while the blades are made in Germany, the razor and shaving products are designed and made here in the UK. The volcanic pre-shave scrub (which prepares the face for the shave), shave gel and post-shave balm have barely any scent. This provides a welcome neutral base to those of you who prefer to use your own choice of after-shave fragrance.

Recommended for those who like quality products delivered on time. See Cornerstone's website.

Grey Fox has a close shave at the hands of Ruffians Barbers

I've never had a shave at a barbers, so was delighted when I was invited to Ruffians Barbers in Covent Garden, London. Recently opened, Ruffians are building on the success of their 2012 start-up in Edinburgh, and have launched a large flagship barber shop and store at 27 Maiden Lane.

The shop is beautifully-designed and immediately welcoming, skilfully combining traditional barber's shop with gentleman's club, with a log stove and comfortable armchairs. The store features traditional petrol blue Takara Belmont barber chairs, solid oak cutting desks with sunken Belfast sinks, unique integrated vacuum system (to prevent any hairs going down your collar), a coffee/whisky bar-waiting area and a large retail space with a large range of bespoke grooming products.

The Ruffians team of expert barbers and men’s hairdressers focus on classic barbering skills and first-class service. Everything is carefully explained and the client is really spoiled. Ruffians' products are used and a head, neck and arm massage is a welcome and relaxing part of the service. The shave was close and relaxing and I felt wonderful afterwards - I strongly recommend that you give Ruffians a go. I later used some of their subtly-scented and very masculine products at home and found I was shaving much closer than usual with their own-label shave gel, which leaves the face feeling soft and well-moisturised. 

Ruffians’ first shop launched in Edinburgh won the Best Independent, Best Newcomer and Best Designed Salon at the British Hairdressing Business Awards. It also won Best New Salon at the prestigious Creative Head Awards. I'll be back - highly recommended. 

Ruffians branches are at 27 Maiden Lane in Covent Garden and 23 Queensferry Street, Edinburgh

Shaving tips from Shane O'Shaughnessy of The Dandy Gent

Grey Fox tries a shaving brush - and hasn't stopped since - image Grey Fox

I’ve recently gone back, after many years, to using a shaving brush with proper shave cream, but I don’t really spend too much time or effort on the process of shaving, skincare etc. - so I felt I needed some advice.

Through the good offices of Twitter I approached Shane O'Shaughnessy of The Dandy Gent for advice. He kindly agreed to answer questions about the manly art of shaving.

Q. What are the relative advantages/disadvantages of the different types of razor and shaving products as there now seems to be a bewildering choice?

Cut throat razor
Well, if I start with razors: there is the straight or cut throat razor whose first advantage is cost - buy a good quality one and it will almost certainly last you a lifetime and no new blades to buy. They give a very close shave and a big boost of manliness at the same time. There is an almost primeval satisfaction to be gained by shaving with a straight razor.

The disadvantages are getting used to using it and keeping it sharp. You will need to buy a strop to keep the razor sharp (there are some good videos on YouTube to show you how it's done). Using the razor takes some time to develop a good technique, but persevere and you will have the ultimate shaving experience.

Safety razor
Then comes the safety. or double edged razor. These are the ones that are ‘T’ shaped and take disposable blades. The advantage again is low cost, with just a pack of razor blades to buy every few months. No sharpening is needed and they are easier to use than a straight razor. The double edge allows you to turn the razor after the first stroke and use the other side, meaning you get to do two strokes before rinsing your razor (with a straight razor it would be rinsed after every stroke).

Probably the main advantage over a straight razor is that it won't nick your skin as easily as a straight razor can, allowing you to be a bit more carefree in the speed and angles you use while shaving. Ideal for the busy gentleman, who only seems to get five minutes to shave. The only disadvantage I can think of really is that you have to buy blades.

The modern razor
And lastly, the modern head razor, like the ‘Mach 3’ type. The advantage of these razors is ease of use, ideal for beginners as you can whip around the face pretty quickly and safely. Some have very flexible blades allowing the razor to follow the contours of the face. There are usually more than one blade on the heads, giving a cleaner shave with the first stroke.

One disadvantage is expense; replacement blades can cost in excess of fifteen pounds a time. Having more than one blade can be a disadvantage in two ways, firstly the head will get clogged more, meaning you have to rinse the razor often whilst shaving. Secondly the facial hair can be cut too close, resulting in in-growing hairs. Another disadvantage is you usually have to buy a certain type of head to fit your handle and many are not interchangeable between models.

Products

Onto the products, this can be a minefield and basically comes down to what works best for you. The basic principle of a shaving soap/cream or gel is to help soften the facial hair, hold the hair proud of the skin and to provide a cushion for the razor to glide on. Various things can be added to the shaving product, like essential oils, clays and various chemicals that claim to do different things.

The main thing to remember is everybody has a different need out of a shaving product, and it is just about researching and trying different brands until you get a good match for your skin type.

Q. How should a man prepare for a shave?

The shaving brush
Presuming you have now got a good razor and settled on what products you are using my advice would be to invest in a good brush. There are generally three types synthetic, bristle and badger. These can range from a few pounds to hundreds for a top quality badger brush. I recommend using brushes as this helps to exfoliate around the base of the hair and helps lift the hair for the lather to hold.

Preparing
The first thing I would recommend would be to use a facial scrub, this will help remove dirt and dead skin cells from the face, this will leave the hair shaft more exposed for cutting. I would then recommend applying some heat to the facial hair to help soften it, this can be done by soaking a small towel or flannel in hot water and then holding onto the beard area until the towel starts to cool, this can be repeated if needed.

Next I like to apply a small amount of shave oil, this help to eliminate nicks and blood spots and gives the skin a little bit of protection from the razor.

This would be followed by a healthy amount of thick creamy lather, preferably applied with a brush. You are now ready for the shave.

Q. Do you have any tips for the shaving process itself?

Your facial hair pattern
My first tip would be to get to know your facial hair growth pattern. Most of us men were not taught how to shave by our fathers, at best we might have been thrown a Bic disposable razor and told to “go and shave that bum fluff off your face”. The golden rule is follow the hair growth and shave with it, not against it! If you need a real close shave you can shave against the growth on a second pass.

Shaving
Leave the chin and moustache area until last as this is usually the toughest hair and will benefit by being left until last to give the shave products more time to soften the hair.

Skin tension is important, try to keep the skin as taught as possible by stretching it with your free hand. This will help reduce the risk of nicks. Always make sure your razor is sharp, using dull blades will cause razor rash. Use the razor in long flowing movements; try not to use little hacking motions. Keep the skin lubricated with lather, never shave over the skin if it has no lather on it.

Q. What about after-shave care?

Traditionally a man would have used an aftershave, basically alcohol with essential oils in it - the alcohol would have acted as a disinfection and sterilising agent. Nowadays things are a bit more advanced, there are various different aftershave products that can be used.

In general, alcohol-based products have fallen out of favour as they can dry out the skin. A good gel or lotion should be applied after the shave; these will help cool and soothe the skin and usually contain an oil that will benefit the skin and might contain a natural antiseptic like aloa vera or witch hazel. Don’t totally rule out the aftershave though, this can still be added after the lotion to make you smell nice.

Q. What sorts of products do you recommend?

I would have to be a little biased and say The Dandy Gent range of products will give you exceptional quality. The rule of thumb is buy the best you can afford and what suits your skin, hair type and shaving style.

Get yourself a good exfoliating facial scrub, shave oil, shaving soap/cream and an aftershave gel or lotion.
A shaving soap will usually last a little longer than a cream, but it can take a little while to get used to producing a good lather. Most people will usually stick to a soap once they have got the hang of it.

Q. Anything else to add?

The main thing is to start enjoying your shave regime, stop seeing it as a chore. See it as a bit of time-out in your day to relax and focus on nothing but the shave. It will soon become a time you look forward too, developing your shaving technique, perfecting the lather, choosing the right products and capping it all off with your favourite cologne.

Be warned, you will become a shave addict. You will find yourself telling friends and work colleagues about your shaving habits, informing them how they are not shaving properly, how they should be shaving with the grain to avoid those razor rashes under the chin and how they should stop using aftershave as it dries out the skin.

Happy Shaving!

With thanks to Shane O'Shaughnessy of The Dandy Gent.