Oliver Sweeney - map print brogues for spring/summer

With summer drawing near, here are some shoes for the traveller. These longwing brogues from Oliver Sweeney use a printed map fabric in their construction. Each shoe is different as each uses a unique section of the fabric. They are Goodyear welted construction and have a lightweight Finproject white commando sole, making them a versatile travel companion.

 Clopton brogues £229.00 from Oliver Sweeney. Also available as an informal sneaker.

Loake shoes made in England - a video

Last week I visited Loake Shoes in Kettering. I'll be reporting on a fascinating visit soon. Meanwhile, here's a video that shows some of what I saw - British shoemaking at its best. 

For more information, or to buy from their wide range of men's shoes, go to Loake.

Grenson SS14 shoes - and new London shops

I'm determined to try a pair of white or cream brogues for this summer and was interested when Grenson sent details of their new shoes for Spring/Summer 2014. My favourite is the Teddy (bottom) with its cheery blue and white sole.

Grenson also tell me that they've opened two new shops in London, in Mears Street, Soho and at one of my favourite shopping venues, Lambs Conduit Street. If you can't get to those, you can find information about stockists at  www.grenson.co.uk. 

Archie V (below) in new colours this season, in three new Italian calves with a waxy, soft mat finish. Dove grey, azure blue and white with the lightweight Grenson wedge sole. Price £235.00.

Jerry (below) a classic 5 eyelet Derby, similar to styles that have been around for centuries but the difference is it's on a boat sole and in canvas. Price £185.00. 

Teddy (below) a classic wingtip in white soft mat Italian calf leather, with a blue and white lightweight sole, also available in blue. Price £250.00 -

Guest post - English Shoes: why they’re worth wearing by Thomas Read of Reads Footwear

I've had several requests from readers for information about shoes, so am grateful for this guest post from the frontline of shoe retail by Thomas Read of Reads Footwear.

Why should we buy British-made footwear and why are good shoes an excellent investment? To produce bench-grade English shoes takes around eight weeks and over two hundred hand operations - English shoes are anything but average. A high level of skill and attention to detail goes into their production. The best raw materials and time-tested manufacturing techniques are matched by skilled craftsmen and women with years of shoemaking experience. 

Tricker's Bourton

Northampton is the centre of footwear production and many of it’s most famous names - Tricker’s, Crockett & Jones, Cheaney, Church’s, to name a few (links below) - trace their company heritage back to the nineteenth century. The majority also remains in the hands of families that originally established them. 

Perhaps the most significant factor which sets Northampton’s shoes apart can be singled down to just one manufacturing technique; the Goodyear Welt. Goodyear welting is a method of attaching the sole of a shoe to the base of its uppers through a separate piece of leather. The process, which was actually invented by an American - Charles Goodyear Jr. – may not have its origins in this country but has been perfected on the factory floors of Northampton to such an extent that we are renowned as world leaders in it. Welts can be stitched by hand or machine and essentially mean that the sole has a firmer bond to the rest of the shoe with the advantage of being replaceable.

There are many benefits to creating shoes with this method, not only does a Goodyear welt ensure a more durable and hardwearing sole, it also improves water-resistance and, contrary to first impressions, makes shoes more comfortable to wear. 

New leather may look stiff, but the cork filling - found in the mid-sole - moulds to the wearer’s foot over time to create an almost bespoke fit within the inners. Welted shoes also allow greater flexibility of movement and the natural contours of a properly structured shoe give the wearer more support. Above all, once the soles become worn out they can be stripped away from the welt, allowing for a complete refurbishment to take place. The pair pictured below, by Crockett & Jones, recently returned from a second factory re-sole. 

Selbourne by C&J: after a second factory repair their good as-new look is testament to the quality and value of Goodyear welted shoes.

Of course, this is not to say that shoes manufactured by different means in other countries with strong leather crafting traditions – Italy and Spain for example - are without merit, only that Goodyear welting seems to produce the most reliable footwear for our climate. 

The general public however, largely under-appreciate the shoe trade in this country. There is a reluctance to value the shoemaking heritage we have on our doorstep in favour of cheap high street imports. Footwear for many men is simply an afterthought, and footwear that is a cut above the rest simply doesn’t register.

Shoes should be the anchor of a man’s wardrobe. Even without an interest in fashion, a well made pair of brogues or oxfords are a versatile and practical must. They will serve you time and again. Shoes make or break the best and worst of outfits; anything substandard spoils even the most expensive designer suit while a good quality pair can rescue the most haphazard dresser from the brink of embarrassment. 

Nowhere does the notion ‘buy cheap buy twice’ ring truer than in regard to what we cover our feet with. Yet this idea is dismissed as a load of old cobblers by those who scoff at spending anything over £50 on shoes. 

It’s always astounding to witness some of the baffling attitudes that exist around footwear. Some men seem to expect the maximum longevity and performance from their shoes for the minimum price. It all boils down to perception of value. If we consider how many times Goodyear welted shoes can be repaired the shock of the initial price pales in comparison to the ethical and financial waste of replacing pair upon pair of cheap, synthetic, glued-soled alternatives. Consider, also, how willing people are to fork out thousands of pounds on technology and cars that seem to date and decrease in market value almost instantly, not to mention their on-going costs. A pair of well-made boots or shoes on the other hand, if properly looked after, can last for many years and will only improve with age. 

Any object that’s been made with care and attention demands to be taken care of and shoes are no exception. It may seem laughable to some readers of this blog, but there is nothing more therapeutic and satisfying than taking some polish, a dash of water and using some elbow grease to work your shoes into a mirror-like shine. Try it once - we promise you won’t look back. Your shoes will glimmer and stand out from the crowd while compliments will come flooding in. 

It’s often said that the devil is in the details and that shoes are the first thing noted about an individual’s appearance. A man who can lavish the time and attention to make something as ‘trivial’ as his footwear gleam and stand out will seem like he has the rest of the world at his feet.

Oh, and one last golden tip to make your shoes go the distance - remember to put your shoetrees in when you take them off! 

Here's (above and below) our pick of six pairs to put your best foot forward in… 

Cheaney Boughton

Church's Pembrey

Crockett & Jones Lowndes

Crockett & Jones Belgrave

Reads Tricker's Green

Some British shoemakers
For more see Grey Fox's directory of UK-made menswear.
Tricker’s

Crockett & Jones
Cheaney
Church’s
Sanders
Barker

A reader asks - what shoes should I wear?

I received this recently -

'Just a quick hello to say I am enjoying your blog very much . As a man in my forties I am finding it harder to find clothing that I feel "is me". From reading your post it seems I am doing something right, but shoes, now that is a tough one; having spent my time wearing bike and baseball boots, shoes are proving to be a difficult choice. By the way, I am more often than not in a pair of selvedge Levi 511s and an oldish Belstaff Mojave; any advice as to footwear to complement these items?

Please keep up the good work .
Best Regards
David'

Belstaff Mojave

Grey Fox's reply -

Thank you for the comments, David. You're right that the correct decision should be made about shoes. How often do you see a well-dressed look ruined by bad footwear; too pointy brogues with a nice suit, trainers with anything except sports gear, scuffed and down-at-heel boat shoes with good casual clothes?

As you get older it's best to stick to classic footwear. Anything too radical will smack of trying too hard. Look out for traditional brogues, desert boots, boat shoes, loafers or boots. In hot weather, driving shoes, espadrilles or (in the right context) Converse look good - avoid Crocs and sandals with socks.

To answer your specific question, what to wear with a Belstaff jacket and jeans? This look has its roots in biker wear, so try a pair of boots, monks or more chunky brogues or oxfords. Avoid cowboy boots, unless you live in the US in cowboy country. I'm going to choose these stunningly elegant Cambridge derby boots, made by Alfred Sargent and Sons, from Tails and the Unexpected.

 

A reader asks - about brogues

A reader e-mailed me recently with this question about brogues (wing-tips) -

Hello Grey Fox,

New reader, newly turned 40, really enjoying the blog!  Some interesting thoughts on there.

Anyhow, I have always liked stout Loake brogues like the Chester so decided to treat myself, however, when I try them on they don't look quite right - it all seems a bit imbalanced in a full length mirror.  I'm tall/slim and favour a slim dark jean.  Is it possible that stout brogues work better with stout frames, or do you think a slightly wider regular cut jean would work better?

BF.

I replied as follows - 

Many thanks for the comments.

I find my Loake Chesters are slimmer and more elegant than many and should be fine with a taller, slimmer frame. It may be that you previously wore even slimmer shoes (Converse maybe?) so it’s a question of getting used to the new look.

I agree that some chunky, Commando-style soled brogues feel and look heavier and chunkier (particularly with slim jeans); but that is part of the look, so I think it’s worth sticking with it. Get somebody to take a photo; I’m sure it’ll look fine.

Best wishes,

 GF.

The reply?

Thanks for the reply.  You are wise indeed - I have lived in converse for the last 5 years!  Time to move on  methinks - James Murphy can get away with sneakers, jeans, black jacket and white shirt forever more but I am bored of it now :)

Thanks again

BF.

The Sartorialist

Grey Fox's Loake Chester brogues

Jimmy Choo - Stepping Out with Mr Porter - video

Here's a nice video produced by Mr Porter in collaboration with Jimmy Choo, tracking the day of a well-shod gent in London - enjoy it!

Rolled chinos, contrasting socks

To show that I listen to my readers' kind suggestions, I've taken a photo of rolled up pink chinos with contrasting bright blue socks, as suggested following my post here.

I'm still not convinced it's me, but that's searching for style.

My favourite shoes - Loake Chester brogues

Nearly ten years ago I badly damaged my right foot in a cycling accident (yes, another one). For a long while I thought I would no longer be able to wear my favourite shoes - brogues. I tried a few pairs of mid-priced brogues, but none were comfortable. Eventually I tried a pair of Loake Chester brogues. What attracted me to them was that they are made here in the UK, unlike many other leading brand (and pricey) brogues which are made elsewhere (India for example). The Loakes have turned out to be supremely comfortable, due partly to the supple leather of the tan calf uppers. They are beginning to acquire that patina of age that the best shoes show after a year or more's wear.

See Loake for more information.

Photo Grey Fox

Photo Grey Fox

Elegant brown brogues - ideal classics for the older man

Brogues finish off a man's outfit better than any other type of shoe because they look so elegant both on and off the foot. Wear with suit or jeans. As classics they are ideal for the older man.

The Sartorialist

The Sartorialist

The Sartorialist

Trying too hard - rejecting affectation in fashion

In looking around for inspiration in my search for style in middle age I've found myself put off by the artificial appearance of those who try too hard. I don't like affectation and one sees too much of it in fashion. However, I recognise that this may result from the often inflexible and reactionary nature of middle age.

Some things that grate with me - men in brogues not wearing socks (why not wear deck shoes and why make your best shoes all smelly and sweaty?), wearing a shirt and tie but with tie undone (why bother with the tie?), hats pushed too far back (wide boy), white socks with anything other than sports clothes (yuck) and finally wearing sunglasses indoors or at night (why?).

I recognise that these things sometimes result from error or forgetfulness - and that's often forgiveable. What is unacceptable, though, is doing these things and thinking it's cool (although I'm now going to admit that I have a sneaking admiration for the wearer of the odd brogues worn above with no socks).

Please take all this with a pinch of salt; but have a look at the photos and you'll see that I'm right -

Middle-aged man buys clothes on eBay shock

I've always been reluctant to buy clothes on eBay, but took a risk with these shoes.  I'd been looking for a pair of rubber-soled brogues to wear in our wet winter weather, when leather soles are impractical.

I found these Next Goodyear welted shoes in my size and bought them with a modest bid of £27.  They're made of a soft but robust leather with chunky Itshide Commando soles and are very comfortable - quite a bargain.  They had probably been worn once so looked virtually brand new.

Would you buy clothes on eBay?