What is style? Pinning down the meaning of the word is like trying to grab a
piece of soap in the bath. When we describe a man as 'having style' we mean
that he has good style. A man could have style that's appallingly bad, but we
assume when we say that he 'has style' that it's good.
Leaving aside that that etymological quirk, let's attempt to identify what
good style and is and how we achieve it. [Note that this is an update of an article that appeared here a few years ago].
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| Cary Grant - traditional style |
Style is Multifactorial
What makes good style? It goes beyond how we appear and the clothes we wear.
Proportion, colour, pattern act alongside how we move, behave to others and
hold ourselves to add to a general impression. Style is multifactorial and
this is why some men and women can wear an old bin bag and look good, while
many of us struggle to do so with even good, well-made clothes.
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| What makes good style? What do you like/not like with these images? Are these men stylish? |
What factors are relevant to finding style? I call them factors as I dislike setting 'rules' about style. I'm occasionally berated on Instagram for doing up this button or undoing that one, or wearing a tie too long or too short (see more on this in my post on The Rules of Style). Such expectations - rules if you like - are nonsense. Part of the pleasure of style is playing with its elements to find new looks. Just as a piece of music can be played in countless different ways, so a blue suit and tie with a white shirt can be worn in many ways which subtly differ. Playing with the elements of style enables these differences to be subtly adopted and used.
Here are what I see as some of the elements of style. I don't pretend that they're complete or accurate; we all learn as we go along.
Stand Proud
Standing and walking confidently is a good foundation to looking
stylish. Clothes are designed to fit best when we are upright and that aura
that self-confidence brings adds a to the overall impression.
In selecting clothes stay within your comfort zone so that you look happy with your outfit. As you test out your
preferences you'll feel more confident about your style and confidence brings
that look of style and comfort with yourself.
Money Doesn't Buy Style
The richest are often the least stylish. While this doesn't apply to all,
tasteless displays of wealth focus on bling rather than well-designed
substance. A huge gold neck chain will never give the impression of
sophisticated style that a discreet, well-designed vintage watch (which
needn't cost much) can impart.
Buy well-made, quality, well-designed clothing. Don't buy simply for the name. There's great pleasure to be had in finding a small business that makes excellent menswear that you love to wear - this is why I promote brands that made in Britain. You could end up spending less if you purchase wisely and well.
Aim for a compact capsule wardrobe where a modest number of pieces work together to make a variety of looks that you feel good wearing, rather than filling your wardrobes with potential landfill.
The Devil's in the Detail
Exude style from every pore. Every aspect of a look
counts. A superb suit will be nothing if worn with a
cheap pair of shoes or a shapeless and boring topcoat. Every detail should shout
style, design, quality, from your socks to your wristwatch.
Closely inspect a photograph of a look that you like. Look at the smaller elements; accessories like the watch, the pocket square; the colour of the socks, how patterns are made to play with each other in harmony or contrast. Colours are a powerful element; are they monochrome or contrasting, what hues work best together? Are the clothes brand new or do they have an attractive patina of wear and age? How are scarves and ties tied - carefully or with artful abandon? Do you prefer a regimented tidy look or a careful attempt at sprezzatura?
Whatever conclusions you come to, don't be shy of experimenting with ideas you adopt from elsewhere or using thoughts of your own.
Grooming
Good grooming is essential.
Like shoes, a good haircut is vital as are clean nails and a generally scrubbed appearance. This isn't the same as looking tidy; an artfully unkempt look can be successful but has to be very carefully curated.
Personality
Style is about your character - it's not about slavishly following fashion.
Fashion models seldom show their own style on the catwalk. Catch them after the show, dressed in their own clothes, and the picture is very different; they know how to dress well and reflect their own tastes and characters, showing true personal style.
It's important to stick to clothes that you feel comfortable wearing. I don't just mean physically comfortable, I also mean that we should never have to feel self-conscious in our clothes.
Confidence is a large element of style. That's why some wear more outrageous, colourful or different clothes from the norm - they tend to have the confidence to make such looks work. In my experience, confidence comes with practice and experience. I wear clothes now that I would have felt uncomfortable with before I started my search for style nine years ago.
Your personality and tastes will change with time, so don't get stuck in a rut. Try new things, try to push out the boundaries of your comfort zone, without going beyond the personal bounds mentioned above. I've found that this opens up a wider choice of outfits and looks and I've occasionally found I like things that I thought I'd never wear (such as denim jackets!)
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| What style elements do you like? |
Style isn't about imposing your own taste on others
How often do you see someone stylishly dressed, but you wouldn't choose to wear what they're wearing? The older man in double denim, the loud check suit, the orange knitwear - you may not like them, but the wearer looks great in them.
I'm surprised how often the Instagram audience is prepared to comment when they don't like something. Variety being the spice of life we should respect different styles. With an open mind we may even come to adopt elements of a look we had thought we didn't like. I never thought I'd like to wear a denim jacket, but a vintage example is now part of my wardrobe, often worn with tailored trousers and a roll neck or a linen shirt.
So, style is hard to define, but we know it when we see it. We sometimes disagree over what makes good style, but that's linked to our individual tastes. Thankfully we don't all like the same things. If we did, the world of style would be monochrome and boring and we would never develop our own likes and looks.
Finding inspiration
It's impossible to be totally original in your style choices so don't try to be something that's unique; that's simply never going to happen. There are only so many styles of garment and there's nothing that hasn't been tried before. Keep an eye on The Sartorialist, Scott Schuman's images got me started on the blog, and collect looks you like on Pinterest, using appropriate search terms to help you find looks you might like.
The rise of the street style image, largely through the work of Schuman and others like him, has democratised style. Fashion has had to take second place to the choices of individuals whose personal tastes have, for a decade, driven style to become more diverse. Fashion is now inspired by street style. The dog now more obviously wags to tail, rather than the tail of fashion wagging the dog of individual style.
This has been fuelled by a rise in respect for personal choice. Gender is now fluid and masculinity no longer requires manly clothing. As prejudice is rightly condemned in so many spheres of life, so people feel freer to wear what they like. The increasing richness and variety being worn on our streets and captured by photographers gives a hugely inspiring source of ideas to anyone interested in searching for an effective personal style.
Use elements of these looks yourself, or even whole outfits if you wish. See what works on you (ask friends and partner for opinions) and stick to what you feel comfortable with. Gradually you will evolve an understanding of your own style.
Good luck with your search for style. Mine has lasted twelve years (I started late in life) and continues. With experience I now know what I like and what works - some of the time. The search for style is never-ending.
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In the companion part of 'What is Style?" I ask my favourite personal stylist, Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab, to give her views on style. She helps men select stylish clothes for a living and has much experience and many useful thoughts on the topic. Read 'What is Style? How to be Stylish' by Sarah Gilfillan here.
