Interview: Mr Slowboy, Artist "How to Live & Work as a Well-Dressed Modern Man"

The wonder of Instagram is that artists with real talent will get noticed and so it was that I came across Mr Slowboy's exquisite drawings of stylish men many months ago and determined one day to feature him on the blog. 

Unlike a fashion illustrator, who merely records a look, Fei Wang (Mr Slowboy's real name) has the ability to capture character and mood in his simple drawings. He shows us style to be aspired to. This ability has been widely recognised and many brands and sartorial gentlemen have been captured by his pen.

Image Mr Slowboy

Fei Wang kindly agreed to an interview.

"I am keen [on] the idea of how to work and live as a well-dressed modern man, which I believe it’s an appreciation to the values of our society and the politeness to others". Fei Wang

GF: Fei, Mr Slowboy seemed to blossom over the last twelve months or so - tell us a little about yourself and how Mr Slowboy was started.

Mr S: Long story short, I am a Beijinger born and bred, went to college in Singapore and England, then worked as a Creative Director and Head of Art in an American advertising agency, However, the success in my agency life didn’t quite satisfy me as my ‘superficial’ fashion illustrator dream gradually became vivid in my mind and finally encouraged myself to jump off the boat by moving to London, and that’s where Mr. Slowboy started.

 Mr Jeremy Hackett - image Mr Slowboy

GF: The illustrations are exquisite, so deftly capturing personality: what training have you had as an artist?

Mr S:I had the privilege of learning traditional Chinese ink from an early age, I did graphic design in undergraduate school, then printmaking during my MA in Illustration. In particular, my study on Indian miniature painting and Japanese Ukiyo-e were great influence too.

Seersucker - image Mr Slowboy

GF: You also have a keen eye for style, capturing the nuances and humour of a well-dressed man - have you always been interested in clothes and dressing well? How did this develop?

Mr S: Yes, I have always been interested in clothes, not so much about following fashion, but I am keen to the idea of how to work and live as an well-dressed modern man, which I believe it’s an appreciation to the values of our society and the politeness to others. My early awareness of clothes raised when I was in primary school, my mother always dressed me in very simple attire: white shirt, navy or blue pants, and white trainer or black slip-on, on top of that, the compulsory ‘young communism pioneer’ red scarf (Don’t be alert by its name, to me it’s merely function like the tie for the school boy uniform here in UK). If you think about the colour palette - white, blue and red, it’s actually pretty French! I guess this coincidence shaped my aesthetic on fashion in certain ways and subconsciously influenced my preference on classic/traditional menswear.

Mr Jeremy Hackett - image Mr Slowboy

GF: How do you do the drawings?

Mr S: The procedure doesn’t sound very artistic, but rather scientific, I research first, then develop the creative ideas and make sketches, finally execute the ideas with a combination of watercolour, gouache and colour pencils.

GF: What brands and styles do you like to wear yourself?

Mr S: Oh...where do I begin? I like Preppy/Ivy looks the most, but I’m open to different styles too. I like American brands- Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren, English brands like Drake’s, Margaret Howell, Mackintosh, and of course some Japanese brands - Beams, Haversack and Anatomica.

GF: Do you draw other subjects or use other artistic media?

Mr S: A bit of everything, I experiment a lot.

GF: How do you see Mr Slowboy developing in the future?

Mr S: Future is always unpredictable, I simply wish that I will be able to continue to work on menswear's illustration until I’m too old to pick up a pencil.

******

With many thanks to Fei Wang, some of whose images illustrate this feature. Follow Mr Slowboy on Instagram and visit his website here.

Drake's - image Mr Slowboy

Gentleman's Gazette interviews Grey Fox

Most readers will be aware of Gentleman's Gazette, a US online men's style magazine edited by Sven Raphael Schneider. Packed with style advice and selling many products for gentlemen of discernment, it's worth frequent visits. I was recently interviewed by Raphael and, for half an hour of style discussion in the context of older men and British manufacture, you'll find the video here.

Image from The Gentleman's Gazette

Interview: Ally Bee Knitwear, made in the UK from British wool

Ally Bee makes scarves, gloves and armwarmers for men and women. They are made from wool from British alpacas and blue-faced Leicester sheep - grown, spun and knitted in the UK.  I spoke to Alison Baker, whose passion for her products and for ethical, sustainable production comes across very clearly on her website at Ally Bee. Read the interview below.

GF: Tell us something about your business and how long you've been going?

AB: Ally Bee Knitwear produces collections for men and women using natural fibre yarns grown, spun and knitted in Great Britain. The first Ally Bee collection was launched in October 2014. This was the culmination of nearly two years researching and testing British alpaca and wool yarns and making connections with suppliers who helped turn the concept into a reality. Alpaca yarns in the collection are spun in a small spinning mill in Dorset from the annual clip from flocks reared in the region. A small supply of Bluefaced Leicester yarn is sourced from Yorkshire. Ally Bee collections are designed in London and crafted in a small knitwear factory in Hawick in the Scottish Borders, mostly on manually operated knitwear machines machines - the ‘old school’ way, continuing a long heritage of skilled knitwear manufacturing.

GF: What is your background and why did you end up in the luxury knitwear market?

AB: My background is in the law, so setting up a fashion label was a leap of faith, into the unknown. Several years back law [training] contracts were a bit hard to come by and I took an opportunity to sell alpaca knitwear for a Peruvian company. I was no good at this at all - but it gave me the simple idea to develop a small, high-end knitwear collection from the fleece of the alpacas reared in the UK. When I discovered both the quality and sustainability of this local fibre, my idea quickly turned into a passion and that is when my real journey into fashion began. 

I saw British alpaca’s potential as an alternative to the imported cashmere and merino fibre so ubiquitous across the spectrum of knitwear. All British - from fleece to fine finish - is a natural alternative, there are zero-airmiles in production, it supports skilled local production and the UK’s fine heritage of knitwear manufacturing.

GF: What influences the designs of your knitwear?

AB: When I design the Ally Bee collection with my knitwear designer we seek to develop pieces that are beautiful, understated and useful. I am influenced by a need for comfort, practicality and longevity in what I make. The alpaca arm warmers, for example, are very soft but remarkably durable - they make a great glove for cycling in all weathers, and seem to get softer with each wash. I design with timeless style in mind because I want Ally Bee to be worn often, and well beyond one season. The natural, undyed colour shades possible with alpaca fits perfectly with this notion and I do not want to be constantly chasing seasonal colour trends. I am firmly of the opinion that we should buy well, and buy less.

GF: How do you see that the menswear and womenswear collections will develop in future?

AB: I see both the men's and women's collection evolving rather than radically altering each season. Menswear launched this season with as a small accessories line and I am currently sampling a mens alpaca sweater in several colourways for next Autumn/Winter to build on this, along with several scarves to add to the collection. The styles most popular with my customers will continue, adding a colourway or tweaking a design element each season.

I love working with alpaca yarn in knitwear - despite it being technical and requiring time, patience and love in yarn production and knitwear sampling. For the timebeing there will be only Autumn/Winter collections in mens and womenswear but I have launched a homewares line recently and this will be perennial. Knitwear and the idea of ‘slow’ fashion marry well!

In the future I am also open to design and marketing collaborations on alpaca knitwear collections with other designers and brands who share a similar design and sustainability ethos.

NOTE: Ally Bee's photoshoot above also used products from surf and outdoor brand, Finisterre, who also use British-produced yarns for some of their products. See, for example, their Bowmont jumper here.

Grey Fox interviewed on New York's BreakThru Radio

I was delighted to be interviewed today by DJMarie on New York's BreakThru Radio. The show was introduced as follows:

In the youth-obsessed culture of fashion media, where can the more mature sartorial eye turn for age-appropriate inspiration? While resources are still few and far between, bloggers like David Evans of Grey Fox are slowly changing the landscape of style to accommodate its significant older demographic, giving them an opportunity to see themselves reflected in contemporary fashion. On today's show, David joins me to talk about the foundation and growth of Grey Fox, Britain's growing Made in the UK movement, a few style guidelines that will help older men to look and feel their best, some of his favorite accessories, a few Grey Fox fashion icons, and more.

To listen to the interview, click here.

Marwood's designer and founder Becky French talks to Grey Fox

Grey Fox has caught up with Becky French, the designer/founder of menswear and accessories label (soon to become womenswear label too) Marwood. Becky launches a new collaboration at London Collections: Men in London next month (6th to 8th January 2014) and I'm grateful to her for telling me about her plans for Marwood next year and into the future.

Tell us about the business. 

Marwood launched in January 2011, showcasing a handcrafted range of ties and bow ties made with the finest fabrics such as woven silk, wool and traditional English Leavers lace. We create modern men’s accessories that celebrate the traditions and techniques of a rich and distinguished heritage and use the most skilled, historic factories and fabric mills across the UK. Innovation, whether that be with new weaves and textiles or a new take on a classic item is our focus each season. The range includes ties, bow ties, scarves, braces, socks and pocket squares.

How did you get started? What made you pick menswear accessories as your interest?

I developed the idea of Marwood whilst I was working as a designer at Aquascutum. I guess I saw a gap in the market for interesting neckwear for men. A friend at the time expressed his dismay at the tie market and it got me thinking. I started collecting wonderful vintage ties and the idea just grew from there. I developed the idea in the form of a blog – an online sketchbook, in order to establish the aesthetic of Marwood and give it a visual backbone to refer back to.

What inspiration do you use in your designs?

All sorts. It all depends what I am seeing, reading, hearing at the time. The SS14 collection was inspired by a wonderful photography book by Orri, called Interiors. The AW13 collection was inspired by Jean Cocteau and train journeys through English landscapes. The idea is just a starting point for colour and pattern or an attitude/spirit really. It becomes a bit more abstract after that. Imagery and photography inspire me always.

 

How would you like to see the business develop?

For now I would like to see Marwood grow its online presence. We are re-designing our current website and shop with EverythingInBetween and then launching exclusive products and collaborations in the new year. The wholesale business is also very important to focus on and I am happy with how that is developing and the stockists we are gaining internationally. Most recently we delivered to Dover Street Market in London, Maxfield in LA and Beams in Japan. A small Marwood shop in London one day would be a real achievement.

How important is the British-made and designed aspect of the product to you?

The British made aspect is so important. To create a luxury product which demands a high price, it must be made with close attention to detail. We have a lot of British accessories specialists in Britain as well as some of the best fabric mills. I feel very lucky to work with a few of them and the relationships we have built in the last couple of years mean that we all care about producing a Marwood product to be proud of. Daily communication and visits mean that we can run every question past each other. It works well.

Who and where are your main markets? How would you like to see these develop?

England, Japan and most recently the United States. A London based pop up shop in October gave us the chance to meet customers face-to-face which is invaluable. It is great to meet someone who buys Marwood products and hear from them how important it was for them to know where it is made and be able to access that information through our website. I hope to connect more with customers in these markets through our own website – their feedback is really important to listen to. I visited Japan in November with the UKTI and this is something I want to do again. It is fascinating to learn about the varied expectations in terms of products and services in different markets and we want to get it right each time. We want to engage with the consumer and the retailers to get the best results.

What have been the particular challenges?

Starting a business from scratch with no business background – that brings enough challenges my way on a daily basis! Business management, finance, growth, profit, cashflow… all these type of words challenge me in a hit-head-against-wall type of way! Challenge is good though… right?

Where next for Marwood?

Firstly we are kicking off 2014 with two collaborations – one with UK cufflink makers Alice Made This (launching exclusively at LC:M) and the other with artist/illustrator Sam Kerr with his new project All Fall In (launching at Paris Men’s Fashion Week). Also, Marwood will be stocked in some more premium stockists in London and US as well as new concept stores in Nigeria and Russia. We are growing our offer for womenswear and showing this at London Fashion Week in February - menswear accessories for women – there will be some exclusive products, which we are excited to show. You can expect the Marwood accessories offer to grow steadily each season. 

One final thought?

Thanks for taking the time to find out more about Marwood. Season’s Greetings! Wishing you a positive and successful 2014.

Wishing you all the best for the future and looking forward to seeing you at London Collections: Men. 

 

Cherchbi: leather goods made in the UK - an interview with Adam Atkinson

I'm a great admirer of the designs of Adam Atkinson of Cherchbi, whose beautiful leather and tweed bags and leather products are all made in the UK. They fuse modern design with traditional values of robustness and high quality, while respecting and preserving home-grown skills and raw materials. 

I also admire Adam's work using the fleece of the humble Herdwick sheep, a strong animal of great character, which is so important to the beauty of the Cumbrian landscape where I spend increasing amounts of my time. 

I met Adam and asked a few questions about the business he runs with such passion and style.

Adam Atkinson checks bag production at Cherchbi's UK factory

GF: Tell us about Cherchbi.

AA: These words from the website summarise the brand well:

'Cherchbi is a British leather goods brand. We craft modern designs in a robust, traditional quality drawing inspiration from Britain’s creative, cultural and manufacturing heritage.'

The brand is a culmination of experience; a 20 year career in the bag industry, my Cumbrian upbringing, my family experience in English shoemaking, Lakeland Arts & Crafts carpentry, tailoring and other hand crafts. More generally, the brand explores the experience of British manufacturing industries, their decline over recent decades and heyday some centuries ago. 

Cherchbi Cadence satchel in grey Herdwyck tweed

GF: How did you get started?

AA: After fifteen years helping global brands make their bags I resigned from my last job in late 2006 and, slightly jaded, returned to my birth-town of Kendal in Cumbria. After only a week I read of a farmer burning Herdwick fleece in protest at the wool price. A seed was planted, growing surprisingly quickly into a mild sheep obsession. It took four years and nine spin and weave trials to convert low-grade fleece into high quality waterproof wool tweed, subsequently named Herdwyck No.10. 

Herdwick sheep at this year's Eskdale Show. They have been coloured (ruddled) for show. (Image Grey Fox)

Herdwicks are one of the oldest and hardiest British sheep breeds, they have shaped the Cumbrian fells over centuries but are primarily bred for meat, which incidentally has recently been awarded PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) status joining Champagne, Prosciutto and Roquefort. In other words it's only Herdwick if it's Cumbrian. It's a huge source of pride to have created a new material from a breed with such a significant story. 

The development of the tweed took me to Donegal (the spinner), Pembrokeshire (the weaver), the Scottish borders (wool finishers) and Lancashire (the final waterproof bonding process). In parallel with the tweed development I developed a network of other sources including leather tanneries, workshops and foundries and was continually designing and refining the first Cherchbi bag collection. Everything came together for AW11 when the brand showed at Pitti Uomo in Florence in January 2011.

Cherchbi Union Tenter workbag

GF: How would you like to see the business develop?

AA: I'd like to continue to grow the business slowly. The first four years were a struggle; I survived on telling an engaging story of Lakeland sheep, Britain's almost-lost leather goods industry and promises of a return to old-fashioned quality. Now Cherchbi has a strong design DNA, a proven supply of quality materials and a growing reputation. The brand has really begun to establish itself over the past two years; I feel we've reached the first rung of the ladder. Early customers risked an expensive purchase from an unknown brand, but now they understand our quality and regularly return or recommend us to friends. 

A recent collaboration with Marwood

GF: How important is the British-made and designed aspect of the product to you?

AA: British design, British materials and British manufacture make Cherchbi unique. This triangular brand cornerstone also makes our leather goods expensive, compared to some. The price has worried me a lot over the years, but I am unable to compromise. It was never a commercial decision to make in Britain and use this as a marketing tool. Cherchbi is made in Britain because I'm personally fascinated by our manufacturing heritage and want to make new products informed by this. I also want to reduce the many tens of thousands of miles travelled by raw materials and manufactured product to just a few hundred. Thirdly, the origin of our raw materials is just as important to our product and brand as British manufacture, our tweed and leathers are unique to Britain; there isn't an alternative. 

GF: Who and where are your main markets? How would you like to see these develop?

AA: We sell through some great stores in the UK, US, South Korea, Japan and Hong Kong, but sell directly to customers internationally via cherchbi.com, around 60% reside in the UK or US, the rest are entirely international. We will begin selling in Germany later this year and I’d like to secure one or two stockists in the Nordic region too as I feel Cherchbi has a particular affinity with this customer and environment. 

GF: What have been the particular challenges?

AA: The first four years were hard, continuing to plough time and money into a venture that seemed to be continually failing was nerve-wracking. Giving up at Herdwyck No. 4 or 5 would have been the sensible thing to do. Production is a continual challenge, trying to maintain consistent quality using inherently inconsistent natural materials is obviously difficult. 

GF: What inspires you in driving the business?

AA: The knowledge that with head, heart and hand I've created something new and unique; the Herdwyck tweed, a completely new design handwriting, the Cherchbi brand itself, which has integrity and is completely transparent. As I mentioned, we're only at the first rung, so where to now? 

There are also some small things of great importance, walking into the studio first thing and taking in the smell of vegetable tanned leather. Leathers smell different; the very best veg tan is unmistakeable.

Cherchbi Haversack in brown herringbone Herdwyck tweed 

GF: What are you favourite moments in running the business?

AA: When I received yet another tweed weave test, held it up to the light and couldn't see through it - Herdwyck No.10! Of course, it was sent to the lab in Yorkshire for testing, but I knew then it was good. I enjoy showing Cherchbi at events, we had Design Junction and Goodwood Revival in September '13, meeting customers and talking through our products and story is a treat for me. 

GF: How would you describe your personal style?

AA: I have a fairly understated style, I like a degree of coordination, or considered mismatching perhaps. I favour British made clothing of course. My top button is always fastened. Fit is the most underrated element of clothing selection, as important as colour, weight, composition and design. Having said all this I'm at home in the country, enjoy camping and being outdoors. In this environment practicality's more important but I maintain a pared down style; no bright synthetics, no logos. My style is British, modish I suppose. 

Hides waiting to be used at Cherchbi's factory

GF: One final thought?
AA: Two, if I may? Two things are exciting me right now. 

After a five-year wear test the wallets I designed in 2008 launched recently. I’d love to have your readers' opinions (see here for details). Along with the extraordinarily talented photographer David Ellison we’re working on our first book project.

Cherchbi's website here

Marwood's website here

Herdwick Sheep Breeders' Association here.

Sir Plus interview - clothes made from cabbage

Sir Plus make clothes from cabbage. The company's founder, Henry Hales, explained to me that this is the term used in the industry for the excess fabric left over after garments are made. So it was that he made me a waistcoat from cabbage and, a few weeks later, I went to meet him and to talk to him about his venture.

GF: Tell us about Sir Plus.

HH: Sir Plus is a quirky clothing brand that makes exceptional garments, here in England, using off-cuts and surplus fabrics (cabbage!)

GF: How did you get started?

HH: I started by buying a few metres of shirting fabric, to make into boxer shorts and sell at markets. The range has grown from boxers to many other items including waistcoats, jumpers, T-shirts and a number of accessories. I now attend shows and fairs all over the country and sell increasingly more on my website.

GF: How would you like to see the business develop?

HH: I'm really happy with the way things are going, slowly and sustainably, or "organically" to use the buzzword! I'd like to increase the product range by adding a few more pieces where I think there's room for improvement. I see my main market as online, whilst attending shows, festivals and fairs to demonstrate the products and spread the word. 

I'm not over concerned about taking on premises, for Sir Plus is online. I'd like to take on two more employees in 2014, as at the moment our small team has their work cut out! In time, Sir Plus will be known for stylish, well designed luxury clothing, with a sense of humour!

GF: How important is the British-made and designed aspect of the product to you?

HH: It's important to me and the brand, but also very practical. Making things here in the UK, enables me to be in the factory at the drop of a hat, The quantities are lower and the quality is outstanding. At the moment, most of my fabrics are sourced here as well. It's also rewarding to contribute to our economy and more eco to make in the UK!

GF: Who and where are your main markets? How would you like to see these develop?

HH: My main markets are threefold:

1. Men with style who appreciate good quality clothing and choose to treat themselves.
2. Sir Plus items make great gifts, so in the build up to Christmas, I sell lots of items to people buying presents. The jumpers with elbow patches and the boxer shorts were particularly popular last year. I'm making Nehru style waistcoats and more jerkins, which I'm really excited about – I think they’re going to be big this year! 
3. Many of the waistcoat sales are for weddings, or special events. I rank highly for double-breasted linen waistcoat on Google, so near Ascot I had a huge surge in sales, which was encouraging.

GF: What have been the particular challenges?

HH: Up until recently (apart from in the build up to Christmas, when I needed help) I was doing everything myself, from designing, to sourcing to dispatching, customer services, website maintenance and social media, etc. There weren't enough hours in the day and it was hard to switch off!

I'm no longer working from home, but when I was storing all of my boxers and waistcoats posed a bit of an issue. It’s fair to say my bedroom was a walk in wardrobe!

GF: What inspires you in driving the business?

HH: My Dad was a huge inspiration. He tried lots of things out, lived a great life and always had a tale to tell. When something rubbish happens in the business, I always think of him telling it as a story round the table.

Prince Charles is embarrassed to admit that he didn't buy his boxers from Sir Plus
(Image Daily Mail)

GF: What are you favourite moments in running the business?

HH: Cara Delevigne bought a pair of boxers from our pop up last year, every time I receive an international order I get excited, I enjoy meeting my customers and getting feedback. I bought a van this year and the maiden voyage gave me a lot of satisfaction. Hopefully it’s going to be extremely helpful for trading, as I’ll no longer have to squeeze everything into my car.

GF: How would you describe your personal style?

HH: A bit eccentric and occasionally over the top, my style has a British theme, but I like to wear something that sticks out a bit. Why be boring? Quality is important.

GF: One final thought?

HH: I'm just gearing up for the markets at the moment, I’ll be hitting Portobello and the others with a bang - do come visit! Follow me on Facebook or Twitter to find out where I’ll be!

Sir Plus Clothing online

Sir Plus on Facebook

Sir Plus on Twitter

Grey Fox interviewed by Duchamp

After my review yesterday of their menswear, Duchamp was curious enough about this old blogger to kindly interview me for their blog, asking some style Q&As.

If you're curious enough about the grey world of Grey Fox style (and to see me looking VERY stern), have a look at Duchamp's blog.