Seersucker: Summer Style

Tailoring is becoming less structured and more comfortable. For summer casually cool linen has gained popularity, but close on its heels is seersucker - ideal for hotter weather when a lightweight, airy, and relatively crushproof cloth is essential. While remaining crisp and elegant in the heat it develops a slightly lived in look which Gregory Peck displays to perfection in To Kill a Mockingbird (see below).

Originally from India, it was introduced to Europe on the eighteenth century and while we now associate it with the USA (where it started out as workwear for the poor but later became an essential part of a preppy summer outfit), it was originally adopted by the British and other Europeans for wear in hotter climes.

Gregory Peck wears seersucker as Atticus Finch in To Kill a Mockingbird 1962

Seersucker is woven from cotton, linen or manmade fibres, although I suggest you avoid the latter. Some years ago I was loaned a seersucker suit which had been worn on the catwalk at the late lamented London Collections: Men. It looked great; navy blue, double breasted with slim trousers with turn ups. However, the cloth was made from a synthetic fibre which meant that on hot days it became almost unwearable: hot, damp and smelly. Natural fabrics, on the other hand, remain breathable and comfortable.

The cloth is woven at varying tensions so that it has alternating puckered stripes which are said to lift the material away from the body, allowing cooling and drying air to circulate; whether this is a valid scientific explanation I don't know. Certainly seersucker is light in weight and I find it cooler to wear than medium-weight linens, even though it has a tighter weave. Its slight elasticity adds to its comfort.

We tend to associate seersucker with blue or grey and white stripes, but it's available in plain colours and a wide variety of stripes (see below). 

And of course seersucker has been worn by the congenitally cool for many years, as can be seen from this selection of images:

Cecil Beaton wears Anderson & Sheppard seersucker in 1936

David Hockney 1967

James Stewart in seersucker, Spencer Tracy in linen

Miles Davis in seersucker

Seersucker provides a summery alternative to linen. Both have similar casual, slightly rumpled, preppy looks. The choice between them is down to personal taste. Many dislike the wrinkled nature of linen: while seersucker looks relaxed it rarely looks as crushed. Linen has a looser weave and, if not too heavy, ventilates better than seersucker - but the latter is a lighter weight cloth so doesn't seem to retain heat as much as linen while still protecting against the heat of the sun. In terms of maintenance, seersucker seems to hide stains more effectively than linen, especially if striped or checked. Seersucker (unlike linen which will need dry cleaning) can in theory be  washed in water, but linings may complicate this, so check the washing instructions. Despite these considerations, I have no preference between linen and seersucker and wear whichever I am in the mood to wear on a particular day.

Try mixing seersucker with other cloths: seersucker trousers with a linen or lightweight wool blazer or vice versa, a seersucker jacket with shorts or trousers from a contrasting colour summery cloth.

Wearing seersucker

I own two seersucker suits. A navy blue suit was made to measure some years ago by King & Allen. A striped suit is off the peg (altered to fit) from MbE at Grey Flannel. This is the cooler to wear of the two as the jacket is unlined, single breasted and loosely cut to ensure ventilation. The navy blue suit has a partly lined, double breasted jacket, making it slightly warmer to wear on a hot day - but it looks great as a more formal, warm weather work suit. Both are worn regularly as separates, indeed, the casual nature of seersucker means that you don't so much buy a suit as matching jacket and trousers - the future of the suit indeed (see my feature "Will The Suit Survive?")

And finally, a photograph of Eric Musgrave, author of Sharp Suits, wearing a Hartford seersucker jacket:

Cotton shirt by Simon Carter

Cotton tie by Liberty of London

Cotton trousers by Polo Ralph Lauren

Silk pocket square by Drake’s

Cotton socks by Bresciani

Suede loafers by Oliver Sweeney

Spectacles: “Ronsir” style by Shuron

New book: 'Elegantly Understated: 175 years of the Fears Watch Company'

I've written several times here on the blog about the Fears Watch Company and its revival over four years ago by Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the great great great grandson of the founder (links below). 

The 175th anniversary of the founding in 1846 has been celebrated in a new book, Elegantly Understated: 175 years of the Fears Watch Company written by Bristol-based author, Jane Duffus with a foreword by renowned watchmaker, Roger Smith OBE.

The title of the book is, of course, apposite as Fears watches are beautifully designed: understated and elegant. The book is a well-deserved  celebration of the revival of a brand making quality British-made watches.

An example of a Fears watch; the Fears Blue

Roger Smith, regarded as the finest watchmaker in the world, comments on the book, 

"The 175th anniversary of Fears arrives at a pivotal time for British watchmaking. When we founded the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers to guide the resurgence of our sector, we immediately recognised the importance of Fears as one of our true heritage makers with a fascinating and genuine continuation of one of Britain’s oldest watchmaking families. It was therefore a privilege to contribute a foreword for this important book and I wish Nicholas and the Fears family my very best for another 175 years - and volume 2!”

The book, printed and bound in the U.K., is available through The Fears Watch Company and is an essential addition to the library of anyone interested in watches, British watchmaking or who owns a Fears watch.

Click here for previous blog features on The Fears Watch Company, its founder and some of its products.

Buying Vintage and Pre-Used Watches: A Collaboration with Chrono 24

I've been an occasional buyer and seller of vintage and pre-loved watches for some twenty years. A well-designed watch is an important part of the style equation and says much about the wearer in the same way that a stylish outfit does.

Over those years I've seen watch values rise steadily and in the last 18 months prices of some of my favourite used watches have increased by 20% or more. Purchasers have come to appreciate the stylish beauty of a good vintage watch which will often hold its value well, offering a financially attractive alternative to a brand new timepiece.

A vintage watch is very much part of the style equation (image Grey Fox Blog)

I don't advocate buying watches for investment - they are best worn and enjoyed - but whether you do or not, a high level of expertise and experience is required to buy safely. Too many poor quality and even fake watches (particularly Rolex, the fakers' favourite) appear on the market and great care is needed to buy successfully. If you're knowledgeable then the rare bargain can be picked up on online markets like eBay, but it's too easy even for an expert to buy a fake or a watch needing an expensive overhaul or one that's been messed around and is worth less than you paid.

A safer option is to buy from a trusted dealer, but prices will be high and you also need to be sure that you can trust the dealer. A sensible solution is to buy via Chrono 24 (link below). I browse this international online watch sales site several times a week to keep an eye on prices and when I'm looking to purchase (which is rarely nowadays), so I was pleased when they approached me with the idea of a paid collaboration. I'm happy to use them and can give my genuine views about purchasing a watch through their site. 

Chrono 24 online watch sales

Sellers on Chrono 24 are both dealers (the majority) and private but, most importantly from the point of view of the purchaser, Chrono 24 offers a number of safeguards to ensure that you buy well and safely. These include:

• An authenticity guarantee with 14 days to return a watch and an escrow service whereby they withhold payment from the seller until the purchaser has had time to ensure s/he is happy with the watch.
• A 14 day refund service.
• A forty person security team to spot suspicious listings.
• Dealers ship watches fully insured.
• All dealers have to go through a verification service, details of which are given on the site.

Given the minefield that vintage and pre-loved watch purchase can be, Chrono 24 offer a fair amount of security and I've been happy to buy through them in the past. Prices can seem higher than elsewhere, the additional security offered to buyers makes this more than worthwhile.

Study images for clues as to condition; ask for better if, like this one, they lack detail

Study movement images; signs of dirt and rust here suggest caution

The exterior of the same watch: some wear to the dial, the bracelet may be worn

Whenever you buy from any vendor keep your wits about you. Genuine bargains are almost impossible to find now, so be prepared to pay well for a good example. Take into account the costs of servicing a watch which hasn't recently been overhauled and ask plenty of questions about the watch before buying. The vendor's replies will tell you much about them as a seller - remember that you're buying the seller as much as the watch. Take into account also that buying from abroad may attract VAT and other costs.

Many of these concerns will be reduced buying through Chrono 24, but this doesn't make any less your responsibilities as purchaser to make full enquires of the seller.

Link to Chrono 24.

This is a paid collaboration with Chrono 24.