Anatomic & Co. Shoes - Comfort and Style

Anatomic & Co Shoes promise style and comfort and they sent me a pair to try out. Comfort is a vital property of a pair of shoes, but so is style. There's not much point having the most comfortable pair of shoes in the world if they look clumpy and inelegant. I think so anyway. The thing about shoes is that they can lift or ruin a look. A poorly fitting suit looks better matched with a superb pair of hand-made English brogues. Conversely the best-fitting bespoke suit looks sorry for itself with a pair of grey, dirty, shapeless shoes.

I tried a pair of Palma suede Havana brogues. With soft suede uppers and gel technology soles, they are very comfortable indeed. After a cycling accident some years ago I normally have to wear an orthotic insole in one shoe, but the softness and support from the gel insoles made this unnecessary with these shoes. Nicely shaped and lightweight, the shoes are stylish as well, so they tick all the right boxes for achieving that balance between comfort and looks. 

Anatomic shoes are available in various different widths, so there is a size for everyone. They are designed in the UK and made in Brazil.

This post is sponsored by Anatomic & Co. All views are mine alone.

Competition Closed: Winner Announced of a Pair of Loake 1880 Export Grade Shoes

This competition is now closed. Loake has announced as follows:

'Thanks to everyone who entered the competition hosted by Grey Fox blog to win a pair of Loake 1880 Export Grade shoes. We can now reveal the winner is Marcus Baker, congratulations! We will contact you via email to arrange a fitting at a Loake shop or direct delivery of your shoes. A big thank you also to David Evans of @greyfoxblog. If you aren’t already a follower of David’s blog about his mature search for style, visit www.greyfoxblog.com'.

Many thanks to Loake and to the many followers of both Loake and this blog who entered. Read the original post here:

I wrote recently here about Loake's new 1880 Export Grade footwear range and my visit to the factory to see them being made. Designed and made to show the best of Loake's shoemaking skills, Export Grade shoes are made by a hand-picked team whose pride in their work was touching and impressive. I thought that blog readers would appreciate these shoes and asked Loake if we could run a competition to give Grey Fox readers the chance to win a pair. To my delight, they agreed.

Loake 1880 Export Grade

A pair of Export Grade shoes being hand-made in Kettering (image Grey Fox)

The Competition

Readers will be in with a chance of winning a pair of the new 1880 Export Grade shoes if they sign up to Loake’s newsletter by clicking on this link and signing up for e-mails and promotions at the bottom right of the page. If this blog post is shared more than 50 times (using the Facebook button at the bottom of this post), Loake will add in a shoe care kit for the winner. You must sign up before midnight on Sunday November 27. Loake will randomly select one lucky subscriber and announce the winner on their Facebook page on Monday, November 28.

The new range is not widely available and the winner will be asked to visit one of the Loake stores that is stocking the range for a fitting and to select and collect their chosen style. The shops that are stocking the range are London (Piccadilly Arcade and Bow Lane), Bath and Chester. See here for more information on Loake stores. If the winner can't attend a store, he will be able to select from the information and images online and his shoes will be dispatched to him.

Please note: Loake emphasise that numbers of pairs are limited because Loake can only make a few of these high quality, ready-to-wear, styles. This is down to the extra attention to detail and increased amount of handwork involved. This limited availability means that the winner's first choice preference of shoe style may not be available. For information on the Export Grade range, see here.

Taken on my recent visit to the Loake factory (image Grey Fox)

Note: I've not been compensated financially or in kind for promoting this competition. Having seen them being made and talked to those who make them, I wanted blog readers to have the opportunity to win a pair.

Loake Launches New 1880 Range Export Grade: The Best of British Shoemaking

Loake has launched a new top quality collection of Export Grade men's shoes as part of the Loake 1880 Range. I visited their Kettering factory this week where the company's Head, Andrew Loake, told me that they wanted to show how factory-made shoes could be made to the highest standards, while remaining affordable.

One of the first things that impressed me on my visit was the immense feeling of pride in the new range. Brendon Drage-Dawes, Chief Shoemaker at Loake, has put together a team of the best to work on every aspect of the shoes. As he showed me round I was struck by the enthusiasm and pride of these men and women in their work.

Brendon was wearing a pair of the shoes and spoke highly of their comfort. They've been built with a fitted fiddle-back waist (giving elegance to the central part of the shoe) which provides good support on the insole. 

They are quite light in weight and are made from a high quality Italian calf which is soft to wear. Stitching of the uppers is immaculate, with a much higher than normal stitch count, giving the shoes a high quality, crisp look. Most importantly, they are beautiful shoes, with that elegance only seen on well-made and designed high quality shoes.

The actual construction and assembly of the shoe is where the magic happens. The first step is attaching the welt to the uppers and soles and this has to be done very precisely by eye. The shank, which stiffens the middle of the sole is attached and the sole and uppers are then joined. Once attached, the sole is shaped very precisely, again by eye, and the heel nailed on. 

There are many steps involved, each carried out by a skilled and experienced worker. It was good to see that a good proportion of the team are young men and women, so the skills required have been effectively passed down with the workforce at Loake.

Once the shoe is built there is still much to do: painting the soles, waxing and polishing the heels, soles and uppers, adding the laces and packing the shoes for sale. The waxing, buffing and polishing is done by hand, with one worker using his fingers to apply different layers and colours to the uppers to achieve, on the final burnishing, a depth of colour and shine that would do a guardsman proud.

Before I looked at the price of these beautifully made shoes I'd guessed a piece of approaching £500. Loake will be selling them for £295. However, they will be in limited supply from selected retailers and Loake shops; they won't be available online. Their labour intensive manufacture takes time and you may need to wait - but it will be worth it. For more information, see the Loake website.

'Loake 1880 Export Grade comprises three timeless, elegant and understated designs: Hanover, a toe-cap Oxford; Trinity, an Oxford semi–brogue; and Warwick, a wing-cap Oxford ‘austerity brogue’ shoe. A fourth style, Grosvenor, a wing-cap Derby brogue, will be added in March 2017'. [Loake]

Loake sponsored this post. All views are my own.

Barker Shoes: a factory visit

Barker are one of England's surviving Northamptonshire shoe manufacturers and operate from a successful, vibrant factory making and supplying high quality shoes to the world. I was able to visit this summer to watch shoes being made using techniques that blend the traditional with the ultra-modern.

Almost ready to go out - shoes awaiting final checks at the Barker factory

One of the jobs to be done was to overhaul my favourite pair of Barker brogues which I'd brought with me. It was fascinating to see them stripped down and rebuilt as good as new; in fact better, because the nicely worn-in uppers complemented the brand new soles and heels so well that I felt that the shoes were more comfortable than before. It's certainly worth the £100 or so it costs to have your favourite shoes refurbished by the same highly skilled craftsmen and women who built them.

My worn brogues waiting stripping down

Stripping off heels and soles before rebuilding the shoe as new

The refurbished shoes - better than new

I've had the pleasure of visiting many factories in the UK. All buzz with pride, skill and, in the case of all shoe factories, the aromas of leather, polish and modern adhesives. The Barker factory is no exception. As I went round, seeing the leather store, the processes of cutting and shaping the leather uppers, applying the uppers to the last and attaching the soles and heels and the final polishing and checks, I was struck by the immense pride and skill being shown by all.

A glance at a pair of shoes doesn't reveal the large number of component parts to a shoe and the complexity of putting them all together in an elegant, comfortable and durable shape. The skills of the workers, many acquired over decades at Barker, are disguised by the dexterity and apparent ease with which they do their jobs, but trying one of the tasks myself made me realise the depth of the knowledge and skill that goes into each pair of shoes.

The images below illustrate the process from beginning to end of creating a traditional English Goodyear-welted shoe.

Polishing the completed shoe - which is then laced, checked and packed for distribution

Like other British shoe manufacturers, Barker make some of their shoes and components abroad, but they remain proud of the shoes they make at their modern factory in Earls Barton. To find out more about Barker, their range of footwear and their shoe refurbishment service, click here.

Norman Walsh: The Craftsman Project trainers

This is the sort of thing I love. Made in Bolton, England, crafted from high quality materials (from Harris tweed, Ventile, Abraham Moon, Pittards leather, Mallalieus of Delph, AW Hainsworth), these trainers celebrate the survival of an important part of Britain's manufacturing heritage. In the later years of the last century large parts of the UK cloth industry were lost to cheap imports. However, through hard work and determination, the brands used in these shoes survived. I show a few of the selection that will be available below:

I've been wearing a pair of the Harris tweed trainers. The wool uppers adds to their comfort and breathability and, being natural materials, I doubt that you'll experience smelly trainer syndrome. They will be available later this year from Norman Walsh.

I've received no payment for this post. I was sent a pair for review.

Ettinger x Gaziano & Girling and Great Creations Exhibition

During London Craft Week last month, British manufacturers Ettinger (leather wear) and Gaziano & Girling (footwear) showed a bag and shoes created in collaboration to show the best of British shoe making and leather working. This video tells the story:

The Ettinger x Gaziano & Girling portfolio is now touring the world with the GREAT Creations Exhibition which promotes the best of the UK to international audiences, encouraging them to visit, study and do business in the UK. The exhibition features the best of British design and craftsmanship, including contributions from David Bailey CBE, Nicholas Oakwell, Mulberry and Aston Martin. See more on Great Creations here.

For more on Ettinger, click here.
For more on Gaziano & Girling, click here.

This post is unsponsored.

Bodileys: shoes made in England

I spoke recently to Sarah Dudley who runs Bodileys, a shoe retailers established in 1919. Sarah is the fourth generation of the family business which originated as the leading retail shop in Northampton supplying shoes from local manufacturers such as Crockett and Jones. 

BODILEYS PORTMAN CHESTNUT ANTIQUE CALF

The business has over the years evolved into a leading export and online sales company continuing to supply Crockett and Jones, Alfred Sargent and Cheaney shoes along with their own Bodileys Brand called the ‘The London Collection and Country Edition’, examples of which are pictured here.

EATON PLAIN CAP OXFORD AVAILABLE WITH LEATHER AND DAINITE SOLES

Sarah’s great grandparents and grandparents on both sides were shoe manufacturers. Northampton produced over 23 million pairs of service boots for both the British and other armies for the First World War. George Webb and Sons was set up by Sarah’s great grandfather, grandfather and great uncle in 1927 and during the Second World War made over 1.2 million services footwear. 

 It is safe to say that the British shoe industry is close to Sarah’s heart and one that she not only has a passion for but a desire to help protect and promote.

BODILEYS WILTON DARK BROWN CALF WITH SUEDE

To create the perfect collection of shoes, Sarah enrolled the services of John Garner, formerly of Edward Green, a highly respected figure in the industry. His extensive knowledge in the design and construction of shoes was invaluable, coupled with emphasis on sourcing the very best calf. The last shapes were chosen with careful consideration and extensive research to give utmost comfort, they come up true to the UK sizing system meaning that each customer would require their same UK size for all their styles.

The London Collection is now entering its 2nd year consisting of classic styles, superb quality at affordable prices. For more information and to buy, see Bodileys.

BROMPTON TASSEL LOAFER DARK BROWN SUEDE AND CHESTNUT ANTIQUE CALF

This post is unsponsored. Grey Fox Blog supports small businesses manufacturing here in the UK.

Carreducker Barkan desert boots on Kickstarter

I featured Carreducker's Kickstarter campaign for their wonderful summer Winkers resort shoes last year. They have now launched a second Kickstarter campaign to raise funds for a range of good-looking desert boots in leather or suede with crepe or rubber soles and a variety of colours:

Carreducker Limited is master shoemakers Deborah Carre and James Ducker, and their specialist team of clickers, closers and last makers. Based in Bloomsbury, London they have been creating handsewn bespoke shoes and boots for customers around the world for over 20 years. They make outstanding quality footwear and are a brand to support.

Please see their Kickstarter campaign here (which ends 5 June and has many great rewards to suit all pockets). Their Winkers resort shoes (ideal for summer) are for sale here.

This post is unsponsored.

Swift & Co: footwear made in Burnley - comfort meets style

Swift & Co make shoes in Burnley, Lancashire and combine traditional styling with modern technology to make footwear that is incredibly comfortable. 

Some years ago a bus turned, without indicating, in front of my bicycle, running over my right foot leaving it severely crushed. To this day I have to wear orthotics with all my footwear except, as I've found with a pair sent to me for review, with my Swift & Co boots.

Wearing my Swift Lancaster suede boots

The reason for this is that Richard Swift (who is a third generation shoemaker) worked with academics to design a patent-pending sole and footbed that provide shoes with unparalleled shock protection and support. The uppers, of soft suede, add to the comfort and, although this can occasionally make the boot hard to put on, this is a small price to pay for such extraordinary comfort. For more information on this see this video:

This innovation has earned Richard and his business a number of awards and nominations and it's good to see a British business at the forefront of footwear development. For shoes to offer this level of style and trainer-type comfort is unusual. This is a British menswear business that is well deserving of our support.

There is a good range of footwear available, with more to come (some pictured below). Prices are from around £140. Click on Swift & Co for more information and to buy. Swift kindly offer Grey Fox readers a 10% discount using the code FOX10.

Swift Borwick suede shoe

Swift Borwick leather shoe

Swift Garstang leather chelsea boot

Swift & Co provided a pair of boots for review, but otherwise this is an unsponsored post.

Interview: The Hand Dyed Shoe Co. and a twelfth century skill

The Hand Dyed Shoe Company is a new company started by Simon Bourne in North East England. He uses a nineteenth century technique to hand-dye shoes, providing customers with an element of individuality as no two pairs of shoes ever look the same. I spoke to Simon to find out more:

Q: Tell me something about yourself and the brand and what got you started? What made you think of dying shoes?

A: Well, I spent nearly 4 years working for a local entrepreneur in the furniture industry. Once of the great USPs of our product was that we would hand-craft the most amazing, 19th century-inspired sofas before quite literally dying in the customer’s chosen colour. I walked through our workshop one day and witnessed our apprentice scooping offcuts of leather into bin bags when it really dawned on me, ‘why is this leather going to waste’? 

This beautiful, raw leather could be used to craft something else, something smaller than a sofa. So, I got thinking, what could it be? I’ve been interested in fashion for years and I would class myself as a fairly quirky guy. I like my tattoos, my tweed and my waistcoats… I’m a creative. It’s this creativity that brought about The Hand Dyed Shoe Company and my very unique, individual products. I never like to be ‘the same'.

Q: I tend to think of dyed/painted shoes as an Italian thing? What can you tell us of the history and background of the technique?

A: Well, my skins are actually sourced from Italy. The Italian calf leather is amongst the world’s finest, and they specifically breed they cattle for the leather as oppose to the meat. In doing this, you minimise the scarring and imperfections of the leather. In terms of the art, it goes back as far as the 12th century. There was no such thing as a tannery back then, obviously, so they would colour leathers using vegetable extracts mixed with water. It’s this same technique that I use on my shoes.

Now, the French and the Spanish have mastered the ‘art of patina’ in my opinion over the last century. The likes of Berluti create the most stunning, handmade shoes. For me, though, it’s about time we brought a little bit of British back to the industry and in my patina you not only have that, but individualism; no two pairs are ever exactly the same. 

Q: Where do you see your market for these shoes?

A: There’s two main areas I target. Firstly, people who appreciate quality and handmade, British goods. These aren’t shoes that are going to last 6 months, they’re something to be cherished, resoled and kept for a quarter of a century or more. There’s nothing finer than old leather so with the right care, they’ll be around for a very long time.

The second market is creatives; people who like to be different, like me. The fashionistas, models, photographers, barbers; these type of people who are like me and they want something special and unique. The arts and crafts industry is stronger than ever and my shoes are very much part of it. You only have to look at the successes of Not On The High Street over the last decade to see that this is a growing industry and there’s immense appeal.

Q: Are there any maintenance issues around wearing and using dyed shoes?

A: Yes, if you don’t look after them, you’ll not get the life out of them. Think of them as your own skin. If you don’t moisturise you soon dry out and nobody likes a flakey face! It’s the same with these shoes, they’re real, aniline leather shoes and they need creaming regularly and of course polishing properly. Would you buy a Porsche and never wash it?!

Q: How do you see the brand developing?

A: Over the next 12 months I’m really wanting to get the product in as many independent boutiques as possible. Think of tailors, suit makers, etc. I want The Hand Dyed Shoe Company to be an extension of that handmade suit you just ordered; the finishing touch to that refined outfit.

With many thanks to Simon. For more and to buy, see The Hand-Dyed Shoe Company. 

Note: this is an unsponsored post.