Lamler: British-Made and Designed Outerwear

I came across Lamler earlier this year at London Fashion Week:Men's. My eye was caught by founder Helen Plummer's vision of well-made, well-designed but practical, British-made waxed cotton coats. Her intention is to produce limited runs of each design, so your coat will be a rare beast. 

I like the Lamler product and concept very much. I will be trying a coat soon and will show it on Instagram where you can follow me for more style coverage. Lamler are now accepting pre-orders on their website. Please have a look here and consider supporting a creative British brand.

This is an unsponsored post.

Tweed coats for real men: Sarah Gilfillan's huge guide to big overcoats

Sarah is so good at digging out desirable menswear that I thought I'd invite her to write a guide to men's tweed overcoats. This was for a totally selfish purpose, of course. I'm hoping for one for Christmas and thought I'd simply pick from her choice. I'm dithering between two of the selection shown below.

Sarah Gilfillan writes: Tweed overcoats remind me of Italy and my granny; the former because I bought one back in the 80's when I lived on the Amalfi Coast, and the latter because my granny used to have a very hairy battered tweed coat that she'd wear for tea at The Ritz and to walk the dogs. 

This may not sound like quite the inspiration you're looking for on a menswear blog, but I've always had a penchant for wearing menswear inspired clothing and my granny's coat just proves how very versatile tweed is whether you're male or female. So if you haven't yet got a coat for winter, then may we suggest you take a look at tweed this season.

The most fashion forward amongst you will be opting for an oversized, long style with raglan sleeves with a 40's film star /80's rock star style to them (Grey Fox's preferred look) but for the more classic look there are plenty of single breasted straight knee length styles around and, as you'll see from the selection below, pretty much everything in between.

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Oliver Spencer (above) - £459

Oliver Spencer is master of producing clothes that look like they already belong to someone and have that vintage feel. This coat is perfect for getting that "something I just threw on" super stylish look, and I love the unusual half belt cinch detailing at the back which lends it a slightly military slant. Click here.

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Toast (above) - £545

The oversized herringbone pattern and slanted pockets make this coat just that extra bit special. It will look just as good over jeans as a 3 piece suit. For any one feeling especially generous this festive season, Grey Fox tells me that this is one of those on the list that he'll be sending to Father Christmas in a month or so! Click here.

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Private White VC (above) - £895

How cosy and cool does this look?! Based on their traditional motor trench, Private White VC have combined all the trench detailing with modern elements to come up with a uniquely styled jacket. Shield yourself against biting winter winds with the cosy shearling collar kept in place with the adjustable throat tab. Click here.

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Cordings (above) - £595

This is the daddy of Donegal tweed coats is it not?! Reassuringly long and heavy, it's also made in England which Grey Fox approves of (this is his other Christmas gift choice). Your offspring will benefit from it too, as according to their blurb, it'll last for generations. So for just £595, you'll not only have a fabulous tweed winter coat but an heirloom too. Click here.

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E Tautz (above) - £1295

As we saw in the photo shoot Grey Fox and I did a few weeks ago, E Tautz opts for extreme shapes. This is certainly true of this dressing gown style extra long coat, but the softness and ease of wearing something like this is sure to win you over. This would be an ideal shape for a tall, large man with the simple detailing and wide lapels which would perfectly balance a big physique. Click here.

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Dashing Tweeds (above) - £1450

This mohair and wool tweed raglan is made of the softest, most luxurious tweed you could ever imagine. Tailored in Dashing Tweed's own herringbone Donegal Tweed woven in Ireland, this coat is an all time classic. Lined in silk and with horn buttons, this is a modern, luxurious take on a traditional design. Click here.

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M&S (above) - £199

You can always rely on M&S to come up with a good looking, traditional piece and this coat ticks all the boxes. If you find black and navy coats too dark and harsh  against your skin tone, then it's likely you'll find brown more forgiving and the check overlay softens it further, giving an elegant and refined look. Click here.

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Folk - £450 

Folk always provide their customers with earthy, raw, natural fabrics which somehow still manage to look urban and contemporary. An ultra-simple silhouette on this coat lets the fabric take centre stage, and in this shorter length it'd be a great choice for a shorter guy. Click here.

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Richard James - £875

Super chic and smart, I'm about to recommend this coat to a client of mine. The peak lapels are a great tool to use to widen the shoulders and the fitted shape gives a very sleek look. If you work in the city but like to stand out from the crowd then I'd definitely be trying this coat on if I were you. Click here.

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Ami - £478.75

Having a coat with a great texture is the perfect way to add some variety to your wardrobe, if you tend to wear a lot of plain dark colours. This nubbly alpaca blend tweed coat would look perfect over a plain charcoal roll neck and slim black jeans for a cool 60's vibe. Click here.

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J Crew - £595

An excellent coat from J Crew with raglan sleeves and an unstructured shape. The unlined nature of it means it would be an easy piece to layer over a suit or a denim jacket on the weekends with no risk of overheating then having a cumbersome coat to carry around. Click here.

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Acne - £580

Acne's styling over on their website is of the "too cool for school" variety, but what I love is that they also produce some brilliantly wearable things like this coat. You can be assured that although it looks very classic it'll be cut in just the right way to give it a modern edge. Click here.

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Johnstons of Elgin (above) - £450

[Grey Fox writes] Finally I'm going to add a final coat to Sarah's selection. This lambswool tweed overcoat is made of Johnstons of Elgin cloth woven in Scotland. Fully lined, it provides a sophisticated, stylish, tailored town or county look. Click here.

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Styling a tweed coat is easy. Such a classic will go with anything from a business suit, through semi-casual jacket and chinos, to a roll-neck jumper and jeans. The most suitable footwear would be brogues, but boots, trainers, loafers, Converse and wellies all go well, showing the versatility of the tweed overcoat.

NOTE - We've received nothing from the brands mentioned above. Please mention us to suppliers if you buy. Thank you.

Men's Coats for Spring: a GreyFox/SartoriaLab photo-shoot

As winter retreats and the Sun warms the Earth, we find our winter coats a little heavy and uncomfortable. I decided, with help from Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab, to look for lighter coats that can be layered according to temperature.

We wanted to try a variety of styles and approached a few brands offering an interesting selection in their SS15 collections. I was pleased at least half of them are British-made, even though we hadn't selected them on that basis.

This is the first of a series of photo-shoots in which Sarah and I show menswear being worn by older men (initially me, volunteers welcome). Most brands use very young models, discouraging the older man from trying out the products on offer.

I've tried coats I wouldn't normally wear and have been surprised by most of them. I hope that our approach will encourage you to experiment and try some of the clothes we show. If our efforts both encourage brands to use older models in their campaigns and also influence you to try new styles, I'll be very happy.

Sarah and I comment on each jacket below, giving a link to the supplier's website (or to the item itself) so that you can browse and buy. We've only had cursory glances at the suppliers' descriptions so that we can give you our own views on the coats.

I'm very grateful to photographer Nick Maroudias for the superb images and for his support for an inexperienced model. Without his involvement, this project would have been impossible. Thanks also to Jean-Pierre Agius whose help and innovative styling suggestions were invaluable.

REALM & EMPIRE:

REALM AND EMPIRE COTTON PEACOAT £225.00 ^

Sarah: I wasn't sure about this jacket when I first saw images of it, but it really grew on me when I could see and handle it. I love pea-coats and the tan cotton looks fresh for spring. It goes very well with navy and white so, if you're like a lot of men with a large percentage of blue in your wardrobe, it'll make a good choice. We decided to give it a smarter feel with a chambray shirt and floral tie. 

David: I liked the colour and fit of this coat from an interesting and growing brand. Like most coats tried here, it follows the modern trend for short-fit. With well-designed and made details (like the closure to the collar) this is comfortable and well-made. It will suit most ages and body-types, making it an ideal spring/summer jacket.

Click here 

BARBOUR:

BARBOUR INTERNATIONAL - SIMONSIDE WAX JACKET £249 ^ 

Sarah: I often shop for classic, functional jackets with clients and Barbour offer a great selection. The biker style of this one gives it a "cool" Steve McQueen edge. Wear it done up and belted or open with the belt tied at the back.

David: My initial thought was that this may be too motor bike for daily wear, but I was wrong. I liked the fit, practicality and classic style of this jacket. Versatile enough for town and country wear and can be layered as the weather cools. A cool classic, but I'd like to see fewer logos; Barbour is a brand that shouldn't need to shout that loudly.

Click here

JOHN LEWIS:

JOHN LEWIS BOMBER KIN JACKET £89.00 ^

Sarah: Generally I consider bomber jackets to be a bit of a younger style, but when David tried this on I thought it looked good. Initially we tried to style it with a polo shirt for a summery feel, but it gave it too much of a mod / skinhead style, so we went back to a simple roll neck. A fine knit crew neck sweater layered over a t-shirt would also look good. 

David: My thoughts are the same as Sarah's. Care needs to be taken when wearing a bomber, but I was surprised how much I liked it. Reasonably-priced and stylishly simple, it has a mesh lining and the quality belies its price. One for you to try for yourself.

Click here

GLOVERALL:



GLOVERALL DUFFLE COAT £199.00 ^

Sarah: This was the surprise of the day which ended up being my favourite. Duffle coats aren't everyone's style, but it really suited David. It's a great spring-like take on the classic wool duffle, in a lightweight showerproof fabric. It's not the first thing I'd think of buying with a client but, having seen this on, I'll definitely be more open to it in future. 

David: Again, my thoughts are the same. This was a very last-minute addition to the shoot. I requested it urgently as it offered something quite different to the other coats. I wasn't hopeful that I'd like it, but it ended up as a surprise favourite of the day, and it's British-made. Made from an Italian coated cotton, it's shower-proof and light. An interesting, practical and stylish version of the classic duffle coat. I've seen some interesting products coming from Gloverall and look forward to covering them again.

Click here

OLIVER SWEENEY:

OLIVER SWEENEY BOXSTEAD CHARCOAL COTTON JACKET £395 ^

Sarah: I love the elegant shape of this mac-style jacket/coat, which would work equally well on larger guys because of the simple unfussy style. It looks great with jeans, but would also be perfect over a suit. Although the fabric is cotton it looks a bit more tweedy. I'd be more inclined to buy this with clients in autumn rather than spring. 

David: Oliver Sweeney offer an interesting range of menswear. This coat comes in many guises (including as a mac) and colours. At first glance it's wool, but it's made of a cotton tweedy fabric, ideal for milder spring and summer weather. With a clean design, nice details and (this was a pleasant surprise) a Made in England label, this was another favourite - probably for town rather than country wear. 

Click here 

BARBOUR X WHITE MOUNTAINEERING:

BARBOUR x WHITE MOUNTANEERING WAX LAPEL JACKET £399.00 ^

Sarah: An interesting and detailed jacket which fills the gap between a blazer and a casual jacket. Its the sort of thing I might buy with a client if they didn't have the need for a smart navy blazer, and wanted something a bit different.

David: I liked its cut and practicality, but was less sure about the details, in particular the numerous pockets and the perforations on large parts of the jacket. This is a collaboration with the Japanese White Mountaineering, so it's aimed at the younger man. One for you to try and make up your own mind about.

Click here 

PRIVATE WHITE V.C.:

PRIVATE WHITE V.C. ALCANTARA SHAWL BOMBER £850.00 ^ 

Sarah: I like the shape, collar and detailing of this jacket. It's got quite a retro seventies style to it, so I think on an older guy it needs to be styled with modern pieces to keep it looking contemporary. 

David: A British-made jacket (in Manchester) from the successful Private White V.C. Although I've been to their factory and supported them on the blog for some time, this was the first time I had had the opportunity to try on one of their products. The faux-suede looks and feels like the real thing, lacking only the supreme flexibility of the best suede. I liked the quality and superb detailing, including the characteristic copper P.W.V.C. zip and well-shaped shawl collar. Different and stylish.

Click here 

JOHN LEWIS:

JOHN LEWIS COTTON FIELD JACKET £89.00 ^

Sarah: An easy to wear versatile cotton field jacket, which you can layer up with chunky knitwear whilst it's still cold, but will work equally well with lightweight trousers and t-shirts for cool summer evenings. It's a flattering shape for very slim guys as the epaulettes and pockets all have a broadening effect. 

David: Another good value jacket from John Lewis, this reminded me very much of a US Army surplus combat jacket I wore while a student in the seventies. I liked the back detail and well-made nature of this jacket. Being who they are, John Lewis don't feel the need to undermine the simple design with logos and other geegaws; hooray.

Click here

Here are links to some of the other clothes that I'm wearing:

Brogues - Loake

English-made jeans - Quantock

Shirts - Tripl Stitched

Tie - Dancys

Socks - Marwood mohair

Watch - vintage Tudor Submariner

NOTE: Our next shoot, in March/April, will explore men's summer blazers, suits and jackets. Please e-mail me or Sarah if you would like your products to be considered for inclusion.

If you, as a blog reader, have any suggestions for items you would like to see featured in these shoots, please get in touch.