Plenty of grey at London Collections:Men, but no grey hairs. Why not?

This month's London Collections:Men showed that, for AW15, menswear is going monotone. Grey, black and white sometimes relieved by dark blues was the dominant theme in the more classic collections. Some used brighter highlights as relief; orange and yellow ochre being popular. 

I approve; such tones make an ideal background for pops of colour and a fine structure for patterns like Prince of Wales, herringbone and dogtooth checks. However, the silver, titanium and steely greys were not reflected by the hair of the models showing the wonderful collections on display. Why not, I ask?

E Tautz - shades of grey, but no grey hairs (image ?Hunger Magazine)

I have no objection to youthful models, but their exclusive use in advertising and on the catwalks locks out the growing demographic of which I'm a member; older men. In fact, it also excludes anyone who isn't tall and skinny, but that's another issue.

Thomas Pink at London Collections:Men AW15

There were exceptions: Duchamp, Oliver Spencer and Thomas Pink were among the few acknowledging that older men also represent the menswear market.

Oliver Spencer

One of my favourite collections was that from E. Tautz. British-made, superb materials; checks and herringbones in greys, charcoals and silvers, all colours which go so well with grey hair. Yet there was not one older model wearing these amazing clothes. The collection would have been graced by a few grey hairs and this would have opened it up to a whole new consumer: the older man in search of well-made style. The same goes for most of the more classic collections on display at LC:M.

Duchamp

At the risk of repeating myself, older men are an affluent, settled, and growing group. They may not all be interested in style, but with a little encouragement this is a market waiting to be opened up by shrewd selling. Such marketing can start by showing men's fashions on older models. This provides the role models and inspiration that older men need to get involved in style by purchasing menswear. It's as simple as that. Come on fashion industry, get real.

My Made and Designed in Britain Month ends and starts - stay tuned

It was a visit to Best of Britannia that started me on the Grey Fox Made and Designed in Britain Month, which, strictly, has now ended. However, I have so many British products still to write about and I will cover these over the next few weeks.

I now realise that there is a huge fund of energy and enthusiasm driving the revival of a British clothing tradition of the highest quality. I hope it thrives. Still to come are Hiut Denim, Peregrine, Blake, Well & Truly and many others, including manufacturers, British Millerain and Ventile. Please get in touch if you would like your British designed or made products to be featured here.

I've really enjoyed meeting, visiting and contacting the British businesses I've covered over the last few weeks. I've had helpful and friendly replies and am grateful to all those who co-operated and patiently answered my questions.

Pocket square from Age of Reason

Made in These Isles - craftsmanship from the British Isles

Made in These Isles sells craftsmanship, new and vintage, from within the British Isles - including clothes, accessories, homewares and furniture. Their selection process involves,

'Attention to detail, quality of materials, great design, simplicity of form, complexity of construction, trusted production techniques and like minded people all help to shape the selection process'.

Here are some of the clothing items that caught my eye, all British made. They have recently added items to their Autumn/Winter collection.  See the Made in These Isles website for more information.

Common People waxed Mackinaw jacket

Vintage Goverall duffle coat

Hilltrek Ventile cycling jacket

To Be Frank waxed jacket

Fallow Japanese pink selvedge hand made British jeans

Eastie Empire Tailors Winston overshirt

Antiform reclaimed belt

Grey Fox tries on Dashing Tweeds at Best of Britannia

Grey Fox had a very enjoyable day today at Best of Britannia, a three day celebration of the best of British products. I met many extremely friendly and helpful people, all of whom are selling products made and designed here in Britain.

I will be posting about some of the exciting products I saw as part of the Grey Fox Made and Designed in Britain Month. My search for style in middle age has always had a home-grown feel to it, and I'm determined to keep it so.

I spent some time at the Dashing Tweeds stand, where Guy and his colleagues told me more about their wonderful home-produced tweed menswear. I tried on a jacket from their new ready to wear range (see photo; I'm the grey one!) It was beautifully made and a pleasure to wear; all too briefly! I will be writing more about Dashing Tweeds and other Made in Britain brands over the next few weeks.

October will be Made in Britain month on Grey Fox

In my search for style I've found many exciting products made or designed here in the UK - see my posts from the last week or two. As a result, I've decided to have a British-made theme this month.

I've already mentioned many British names over the first few months of this blog. Nigel Cabourn, Sir Paul Smith, Barbour, Belstaff, Harris Tweed among others - and there are plenty more (of all sizes, new and older) where they came from. All these make, design or supply clothes for the man who wishes to step out in style. Watch this space over the next few weeks.

Coincidentally, there is a Best of Britannia event in London over the next few days - visit the website here for more information. This covers every sector, from music to marmalade and celebrates British designers and manufacturers.

If you supply British-made or designed fabrics or goods, like this biker jacket from James Aubrey (more later from this company), please get in touch.

(Incidentally, the car below reminds me of a white MG I owned, down to the MG Owners' Club badge. A very British car, then unfortunately in its twilight years under the misguided management of British Leyland).

James Aubrey biker jacket - British waxed fabric

London Collections - trends as seen by the street snappers

What did the street photographers make of the styles and influences at the recent London Collections? A video by Mr Porter.

I'll put up another Mr Porter video shortly; they contain useful commentary on recent trends - always useful material in that elusive search for style ideas -

 

Wolsey tradition - Grey Fox buys shorts for Summer

When it comes to style I'm a real sucker for tradition. If a jacket recreates one that Mallory wore on Everest, I'll buy it. If a purveyor of menswear supplies the Royal Family, I'm hooked.

So, a couple of weeks ago, I went to investigate Wolsey's new shop in Brewer Street in London. The company is shifting away from traditional underwear and golfing jumpers to become more fashionable.

How would this move away from a more conservative (and middle-aged) market suit me as an older man? The revamped company still depends on very traditional values and much is made of the company's history, for example providing clothing to Scott's Antarctic expedition a century ago this year. As ever, successful marketing can be very schizophrenic.

Summer has arrived at last and Grey Fox's legs need an airing - so I was after a pair of shorts. The service was friendly and enthusiastic, quite a change from the studied indifference found in many London shops. The clothes are an inspiring mix of styles and tastes. There is something for most tastes, high fashion and less so.

True to Wolsey's traditions, the Wolsey 1755 shorts (the date the company was founded) are well made and, for me, the slim cut was a welcome change from the flappy-legs style. They are knee length on me, but look good folded over if a shorter style is needed.

I recommend Wolsey to other older men in search of style.

London Undercover - my new umbrella

Just as a drought is declared in south east England it has started to pour, with April showers bringing us thunder, hail and heavy rain. As a man in search of style, I now reserve my anorak for brisk mountain walks, so the question arose as to how I could keep dry. Tweed has shower-proof properties, but not enough to keep a man dry in a torrent. I therefore bought an umbrella from Mr Porter and was introduced to a brand I hadn't come across before - London Undercover.

The umbrella I chose is the "Classic Black & White Prince of Wales umbrella. Brown Interior. Combined Maple wood shaft & handle with laser etched London Undercover logo. Made using recycled materials". It's light, beautifully-made and looks very smart indeed.

London Undercover's range of umbrellas is based on a very British sense of humour. I love the Naval Battle Map Umbrella (below), although a maritime pedant might have certain reservations. Firstly, it's not a "map"; it's a chart. Secondly, a naval man wouldn't be seen dead with an umbrella, particularly on board his vessel (who said that there are three things you should never sail with - a wheelbarrow, an umbrella or a naval officer?)

Photographs from London Undercover

Another that caught my eye was Greenline Routemaster, described as follows, "Classic vintage Green Line coaches livery umbrella with historic Routemaster seating moquette interior. The Green Line brand, first established in 1930, was used for coach services linking central London with country towns within a 30-mile radius. Vintage Lincoln Green Exterior with Gold Trim. 1960's Routemaster Seat Fabric Pattern Interior. Combined Maple Wood shaft & handle with laser etched London Undercover logo. Made using recycled materials".

The very British, quirky nature of these products will appeal to buyers and I see that London Undercover offer free shipping.

If it's pouring with rain where you are, I suggest you spend lots on an umbrella, it's the best way to guarantee a dry Spring and Summer.