Hackett parka - winter approaches

The last time I owned a parka was in my teens when I owned one of those khaki ones, with orange lining and cheap fake fur around the hood. For AW14 Hackett have produced the real thing, with a generous coyote-fur hood, deep pockets and water-resistant exterior. Ideal for those fast-approaching chilly days. Coming soon to Hackett.

Drake's AW14 - very British design menswear and accessories

I mentioned Drake's in a previous post when I described how a bespoke tie was made for me at their factory in East London. I now want to show you some of their AW14 collection. The superb images below, taken by my Man/Men colleague Jonathan Daniel Pryce, say more than I can. They show only a small selection of the beautiful clothes and accessories available and I suggest you pay a visit to their shop at Clifford Street, London, their factory shop in Haberdasher Street, or go to Drake's website for more information.

Hackett - River Tweed country style for AW14

This sunny, warm weather is all very well, but I sometimes look forward to the mellow mists of autumn when a man can wear tweed with soft-hued knits, country-style brogues, hats and coats. Hackett promise us a country-style River Tweed collection this autumn/winter, inspired by calm days by a crystal-clear stream hoping the fish will rise to a newly-tied fly. 

Watch out on the Hackett website later in the year.

Selected prices:

Cable knit socks in burgundy - £16

Hackett Cheaney Fox Brothers brogue - £375

Tweed trousers in brown - £195

Fly tartan tie in green - £90

Tattersal check shirt - £95

Tall hip flask - £90

E. Tautz AW14 at London Collections:Men - sponsored by Braun

The E Tautz show at London Collections:Men earlier in January contained the usual high-quality, tailored, British-made clothes that we've come to expect from Patrick Grant. 

The show was sponsored by Braun, who took care of the grooming of all the models (and Patrick Grant). E.Tautz. Here are some images of the show.

You may feel you wouldn't wear these clothes, but the point is that they foretell the shapes and shades we'll see on the high street over the next few years. Relaxed, comfortable tailoring, trench coats (no doubt popular this year, as a nod to their military history), strong checks, slashes of colour and the emphasis on individualism as opposed to being a fashion slave.

For quieter versions of Patrick Grant's style go bespoke at his Norton & Sons or, more democratically, his Hammond & Co collection at Debenhams, where his eye for detail can be had at very affordable prices (and see my posts here).

Oliver Spencer AW14

I like Oliver Spencer's clothes because he sells to all types of man; look at the variety of characters walking his catwalk show at London Collections:Men this month. Alex James, Gary Kemp, Jack Guinness and Chris Chasseaud, one of the many friends I've made through this blog, modelled in the show at which music was provided by Specials Drummer John "Brad". 

If you're an older man looking for something classic yet different, take a look. Oliver Spencer mixes soft outlines with traditional and technical fabrics, often using British manufacture. Looking at the clothes, worn by the models with humour and attitude, they are comfortable yet stylish. 

 See Oliver Spencer for the current collection.

Pheres AW14 - luxury menswear from Italy

During London Collections:Men I went to see an Italian label previously unknown to me. Pheres makes high quality ready-to-wear and bespoke menswear. The AW14 collection shown here includes well-tailored deconstructed jackets in light fabrics with detailing and applications that are entirely handmade, using a mixture of Italian traditional craftsmanship and British bespoke tailoring.

The quality of the tailoring and cloths is superb. The softness of the fabrics and the nature of the construction made the jackets I tried on feel as though they were bespoke, sitting snugly and comfortably around shoulders and chest. The collections also includes ties and silk and cashmere pocket squares; again, made to the highest standards.

I apologise for the many images of me here, but I enjoyed the feel and comfort of the clothes I tried on and, although not all were my size, they give an idea of the classic yet very Italian shapes and cut. 

See Pheres for more information.

Duchamp AW14

Duchamp's presentation of their Autumn/Winter '14 collection at London Collections:Men was held at The Royal Academy of Arts. No static presentation this, models (bearded and not, grey-haired and not) played cards, fenced with walking sticks and mingled with visitors. This approach showed of the tailoring to its best advantage - a man is reassured if the cut of his suit allows him to wield a sword.

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Duchamp's offering becomes more subtle and sophisticated by the year. Bold checks that seem muted from afar; velvet, tweed, beautiful cloths and outstanding tailoring make this a collection that subtly has something for everyone. Neither extreme nor conventional in any way, Duchamp's clothes are still different enough to satisfy those with a dandyish streak - see, for example, the single-breasted check suit with peak lapels and double-breasted waistcoat. And look at the sumptuous cloth of the dinner jacket in the third image below.

See Duchamp's website for their current collection.

Grey Fox comparing notes about check suits with one of the Duchamp models

What menswear style trends will we see in 2014?

2014 has started with the two great menswear shows, London Collections:Men and Pitto Uomo in Florence. I've tried to identify trends from the Autumn/Winter 2014 collections.

Pitti Uomo January 2014

Menswear changes slowly and developmentally. Look how the shape and structure of men's suits have changed little in over a century. I've focused on styles that I, an older man, would select. My tastes are for the classic with a twist - but don't let this discourage you from being more adventurous. 

Oliver Spencer AW14 - grey tweed jacket and fuller-cut trousers - and wonderful models with real attitude

My post here outlined trends for 2013. Most of these will persist in 2014 and beyond, so here I highlight any significant changes; otherwise assume that everything will be much as before.

• Colours remain essentially drab, with browns and greys being relieved by splashes of colour in trousers, ties, socks, pocket squares etc.
• Bold checks are here to stay - most shows containing tailored suits and jackets with checks. Look out for some superb examples from Duchamp, Marks & Spencer Best of British, Rake, Richard James and Hackett; indeed any high street menswear store.

Hackett AW14

• At last, trousers are beginning to loosen up. Few shows contained those spray-on trousers that are impossible to take off over even remotely-toned calves. Topman's show at LC:M varied between slightly looser cut and very baggy trousers.
• Cravats are returning, ties and pocket squares remain popular.
• Large overcoats and rainwear - perhaps a timely return given the increasingly-obvious results of climate change.

Bold checks from M&S Best of British AW14

• Men's luggage and bags - quality leather holdalls and poachers' or anglers' style bags, which must have adequate storage for phones, iPads and other technology.
• I mentioned polo-neck (roll-neck) jumpers last year - we'll see them layered under blazers, jackets and knitwear. I recall wearing them in this way in the late sixties. I like them as they save the tedium of washing and ironing shirts, particularly if you can find a machine-washable lambswool or merino jumper. Smart casual is looking up.
• Look out for further reports on the blog giving more detail of some of the labels I've mentioned.

Hackett AW14 - layered knits and polo neck jumper