Book review: The Suit, Form, Function & Style by Christopher Breward

The Suit, Form, Function & Style is written by Christopher Breward, Principal of Edinburgh College of Art and Professor of Cultural History at Edinburgh University. While somewhat academic in style, this is a fascinating social and cultural history of the suit.

Image © Woolmark Archive (Australian Wool Innovation Ltd) and the London College of Fashion (top right)

The suit is such a familiar garment nowadays that we rarely think about its origins. These lie in the end of the 17th century when its pervasive influence began, originating as a symbol of status and becoming democratised throughout the last century. Now its classic lines are worked on by menswear designers keen to 'prove their iconoclastic intent', as Breward describes it. But, as ever in fashion (and menswear in particular), change is more apparent than real and Breward concludes that the suit remains 'a prized symbol of distinction and power...' He sees it as enduring for at least another 400 years, a conclusion I'd agree with. 

I'd add to Breward's conclusion by adding my view that the suit has extended its life by taking on a role as a casual garment. With more comfortable construction, relaxed fabrics (like denim, cotton and linen) and casual styles, the modern suit is no longer just a formal symbol of status.

Essential reading; persevere with the academic writing style and enjoy this as a book adding much of fascination to the history of the suit. Published by Reaktion Books Ltd, £18. 

Lanieri: suits from Italy

Lanieri sells online suits made to measure in Italy. They invited me to try the process which involves selecting from a wide range of Italian fabrics and then entering your measurements online. There's a helpful video that sees you through each stage and your data is checked and any queries raised with you about any details or measurements which lie outside the expected range.

This was all very easy and it's fun choosing all the details of your suit, from cut of lapels, single or double breasted, colours of linings, type of buttons, and so on.

Wearing my Lanieri suit

Lanieri say that the suits are made entirely in Italy. Postage is free and you have a variety of options to have the suit remade, or altered to fit you. Lanieri will reimburse the costs of a tailor if such alterations are needed. 

I selected a Traveller Grey Houndstooth check cloth by Fratelli Tallia di Delfino. A lightweight wool for warmer weather, it has proved to be comfortable, crush and water resistant and soft to touch: Lanieri certainly don't stint on the quality of the cloths. I chose real horn buttons to give the suit a quality look. 

The suit arrived after a few weeks and fitted reasonably well. The legs were too long, but this was easily altered by my tailor. Otherwise the trousers fitted well around waist and seat. I selected a mid-range fit for the trousers: this would be still slim for some and I suggest you go for the widest option unless you want trousers that fit fairly closely around the calves. The jacket was very slightly too long in the sleeves, but it was marginal. Otherwise it was a fair fit over chest and shoulders. Ideally, I'd have had a few further tweaks made, but given the price (from £590 for the cloth chosen) the final result is a very nice suit that has been much admired.

If I were to have another suit made by Lanieri, I would look for something suitable for summer such as the lovely cream hopsack suit pictured above. Now is the time to order that Italian-made summer suit. See Lanieri for more information and to order your suit.

The suit in this feature was provided for review by Lanieri.

My Debenhams Hammond & Co suit lives again

Readers with exceptional memories may remember how much I wore my Debenhams Hammond & Co Prince of Wales check suit, acquired some two and a half years ago and pictured in the image below. Made in Egypt from cloth from Alfred Brown (Worsted Mills) Ltd of Leeds, Yorkshire, it cost a very reasonable £299. Sadly I took it out of its suit bag at the beginning of this last winter just to find that moths had made a meal of it and I had to recycle it.

Image by Jonathan Daniel Pryce

To my delight I found out recently that Debenhams had a few suits left and they very kindly replaced it. There are few suits in this price range that are truly good value, but Debenhams and Hammond & Co. have got it right here. As with any suit, you have to ensure that cut and fit are right for you. Luckily these fit me well.

You can find this suit (now priced at £140, but with very few left) and other similar suits designed by Patrick Grant as part of the Debenhams Hammond & Co range here.