Book Review: Menswear Illustration by Richard Kilroy pub. Thames & Hudson

I'm grateful to Thames & Hudson for sending me another menswear book to review. They are the go-to publishers for outstanding books on fashion and Menswear Illustration by illustrator Richard Kilroy, is no exception, featuring up-and-coming menswear fashion illustrators. 

As the book points out, the explosion in sales of menswear means that there has been a rise in men's fashion illustration. This book documents this, recording the new and exciting artistic talent that is emerging.

Clym Evernden, Thom Browne A/W 2014-15, created for A Magazine Curated By (Belgium), 2014. Courtesy Clym Evernden

A look through the book shows a wide variety of styles of illustration, from the photographic and graphic, through the rather derivative to some showing outstanding drawing skills. Many are truly artistic and some, like this image below (and my favourite) even shows the personality of the models.

Jean-Philippe Delhomme, Louis Vuitton and Prada S/S 2014, created for Série Limitée (Les Echos), 2012. Courtesy Jean-Philippe Delhomme

Shohei, Carhartt S/S 2012 advertising campaign, created for Carhartt, 2012. Courtesy Shohei

Many images display an exciting exuberance which reflects the rapid expansion of menswear and the opening up of the availability of a wider selection of styles for men. Menswear is now moving more rapidly (as high fashion, if not at high street level) and the creative energies this has unleashed are evident in the book.

Helen Bullock, Alexander McQueen A/W 2013-14, created for SHOWstudio.com, 2013. Courtesy Helen Bullock

Works in the book will be previewed during London Collections: Men from today to Monday (9th to 12th January 2015) at The Hospital Club, Covent Garden, London. These images will then be exhibited at Paul Smith in Albemarle Street during London Fashion Week later in February. 

The book will be released on the 23rd of February 2015. I recommend it to all with an interest in menswear, fashion, art and illustration.

Julie Verhoeven, Jil Sander S/S 2009, Created for Ponystep (UK), 2008. Courtesy Julie Verhoeven

Book Review: Contemporary Menswear by Steven Vogel et al.

Contemporary Menswear describes itself as 'a global guide to independent men's fashion'. The book profiles over fifty menswear labels, designers and hangers-on such as bloggers and websites that stand out in contemporary menswear. 

Image Grey Fox

You won't find here large brands such as Levi's or Ralph Lauren, nor more establishment menswear retailers or tailors such as can be found on Savile Row. This is because menswear is defined in a more restricted way. While the word is usually used to mean clothing for men generally, in this book menswear is described as a trend. Emerging from streetwear, it's seen as 'a cleaner, more mature and preppier look'. It's part of a lineage of 'careful artisanal craftsmen' and is something very modern in terms of sustainability and practicality, with a romantic element.

Autumn/Winter 2012/13 © Mark McNairy

Help with the definition is best found by looking at the brands in the book, from Albam to Tellason, brands from all corners of the world. All have roots in heritage, tradition, quality and, importantly, in vintage clothes and styling. Naturally, there are British brands here, including Albam, Folk, Grenson Shoes, Nigel Cabourn and Universal Works.

© Nigel Cabourn

Inevitably, there are many labels that you won't find here. The authors seem apologetic about this, but some brands and their PR companies didn't reply to their approaches (I know the problem), others are not independent, or have simply copied a trend, or are just too large. The omissions don't matter; the book is a successful look at an important element of modern men's style. 

Nigel Cabourn’s vintage shoe collection © Nigel Cabourn 

The brands are described in reviews or interviews and the book also contains contributions on diverse subjects including street style photography, Japanese menswear and blogging. The images are good quality and capture well the spirit of each brand.

I'd highly recommend it as a good read and browse to anyone interested in menswear, however the word is defined. Contemporary Menswear, by Steven Vogel, Nicholas Schonberger and Calum Gordon, published by Thames & Hudson 20 October 2014.

A vintage Filson’s hunting jacket © Filson