Khabi Mirza - for details of his outfit see below (Outfit 1) |
GF: Please introduce yourself, what’s your name, where are you based and what do you do?
KM: My name is Khabi Mirza and I’m a London born and bred fashion publicist. Following a 15-year career in journalism - counting various roles, most notably Fashion and Features Editor at Drapers, as well as contributory roles at the likes of FHM and GQ – I founded fashion communications agency, Fabric PR.
From our showroom in Shoreditch, our team helps drive consumer engagement for a spectrum of global brands including Scotch & Soda, Lee Jeans, RM Williams, Sebago, Umbro, Crocs, Eastpak, Palladium and Duke + Dexter, amongst others.
From our showroom in Shoreditch, our team helps drive consumer engagement for a spectrum of global brands including Scotch & Soda, Lee Jeans, RM Williams, Sebago, Umbro, Crocs, Eastpak, Palladium and Duke + Dexter, amongst others.
GF: When and how did you first become interested in style, in clothes and dressing well?
KM: What I remember most clearly from my first teenage date was less the company (as delightful as Zoe Bing certainly was), or main feature Top Gun’s dizzying aerial acrobatics, and more Pepe Jeans’ indelible Raindance ad which preceded the movie. The ad combined the lazy pounding drum of How Soon Is Now by The Smiths with a film whose narrative spun from a befeathered Native American shaman summoning a long overdue downpour in a sweltering Arizona desert, to a serendipitous meeting of Paninaro-uniformed boy and girl in a rain-drenched Portobello Market.
In terms of impact, the Raindance ad was everything. An irresistible cocktail of London, music, fashion, and Americana, Pepe’s 1980’s campaign helped light the fuse on a sartorial journey which would lead me from the Fila, Sergio casual terrace fashion days through to Ray Petri’s tailoring/workwear/sport Buffalo mash-up, onto the Day-Glo West Country rave scene and beyond.
In terms of impact, the Raindance ad was everything. An irresistible cocktail of London, music, fashion, and Americana, Pepe’s 1980’s campaign helped light the fuse on a sartorial journey which would lead me from the Fila, Sergio casual terrace fashion days through to Ray Petri’s tailoring/workwear/sport Buffalo mash-up, onto the Day-Glo West Country rave scene and beyond.
GF: How would you describe your style?
KM: Like the animated 1970’s character Mr Benn (will mean nothing to anyone born beyond 1980), I have an appetite for adopting a disparate array of looks and guises to suit my ever-changing mood. Mr Benn, resplendent in his go-to black db jacket, natty pinstripe strides and bowler hat would, in each episode, visit a curious fancy dress establishment and be, according to his chosen outfit, whisked off to a fantasy adventure land from the Wild West (when dressed as a cowboy), military battlefield (you’re getting the plot), and even outer space.
Unlike Mr Benn, this sartorial schizophrenic draws the line at Camelot-appropriate costumeries, but to this day enjoys combining tailoring, workwear, military, sportswear, preppy essentials and Western looks in an often discordant but celebratory nod to the joy that can be derived from ransacking menswear.
Unlike Mr Benn, this sartorial schizophrenic draws the line at Camelot-appropriate costumeries, but to this day enjoys combining tailoring, workwear, military, sportswear, preppy essentials and Western looks in an often discordant but celebratory nod to the joy that can be derived from ransacking menswear.
GF: What sort of clothes do you wear and where do you find them?
KM: Denim has always anchored my outfits and much to my wife’s chagrin, I’m a hopeless hoarder of jeans, as well as suits, leather jackets, sunglasses, scarves, overcoats, yadda yadda. While I’m sincerely attempting in my ever-advancing years to incorporate trousers into my daily routine (and have a weakness for Italian brand Incotex), I find myself returning day in and out to vintage jeans upon which I layer a combination of tailoring and casuals. Most of my wardrobe is ‘pre-loved’ and sourced largely through…men’s retail-led sector plug your ears…, eBay.
Growing up I had a ravenous obsession with charity stores - back when they were a confection of quality items from the 1950’s, ‘60’s and ‘70’s, rather than the absurdly shoddy fast-fashion which largely lines today’s rails – and I remain obsessed with an urge to rummage, be it IRL or digital. More often than not it is the chase which is the reward.
Growing up I had a ravenous obsession with charity stores - back when they were a confection of quality items from the 1950’s, ‘60’s and ‘70’s, rather than the absurdly shoddy fast-fashion which largely lines today’s rails – and I remain obsessed with an urge to rummage, be it IRL or digital. More often than not it is the chase which is the reward.
GF: Do you buy mainly ready to wear, tailored or vintage?
KM: At least 90% of the clothing I purchase is vintage. I also have no issue with wearing quality-led second-hand footwear. There isn’t a hope in Oz that I could ever afford the clothes I wear were they full priced. Fortunately, I work with some damn fine clothing, footwear and accessories brands who, if I ask politely, let me sometimes wear their samples.
GF: Please describe the main style influences in your life - past and present.
KM: From the casualised tailoring of Miami Vice to the disheveled chic of Mickey Rourke, the kaleidoscopic styles of the 1980’s laid the foundations, though there are countless additional cinematic markers. Rebel rousing denims made their mark by Martin Sheen in Badlands (note: pleat-front Levi’s Type 1 jacket obsession) and the entire early Brat Pack cast of Coppola’s The Outsiders. Giorgio Armani’s louche tailoring brought to life by Richard Gere’s American Gigolo as well as the prohibition era chic of The Untouchables, which I believe won an Academy Award for Best Costume Design. Then there’s Judd Nelson’s pre-grunge workwear in The Breakfast Club, Monty Clift’s 1950’s leathers, denims and tweeds in A Place In The Sun, Pacino’s 1960’s tailoring from The Godfather, plus the lived-in post-Vietnam Americana of Serpico. And, just about every stitch Redford frayed throughout the 1970’s.
GF: What are your favourite brands and stores?
KM: Part of the legendary Osaka 5, Full Count is arguably the finest denim brand in the world. Crafted on 1950’s American looms using organic Zimbabwean cotton and natural indigo dyes, the brand focuses on heritage silhouettes and produces the most beautiful slubby patinas through its cloths.
I’m constantly fascinated by the Americana-inspired eccentricity of Visvim and the military/workwear/sportswear kaleidoscope of both Engineered Garments and Monitaly.
On prep-led tailoring and casuals I’m addicted to Drakes and my Ebay hunts sometimes uncover treasures from contemporary Italian tailoring houses such as Lardini, Caruso, Slowear brands, Stile Latino, Lubiam and De Petrillo. But, my all-time favourite, daily go-to brand is Ralph Lauren, across all sub-brands, the older the better.
I’m constantly fascinated by the Americana-inspired eccentricity of Visvim and the military/workwear/sportswear kaleidoscope of both Engineered Garments and Monitaly.
On prep-led tailoring and casuals I’m addicted to Drakes and my Ebay hunts sometimes uncover treasures from contemporary Italian tailoring houses such as Lardini, Caruso, Slowear brands, Stile Latino, Lubiam and De Petrillo. But, my all-time favourite, daily go-to brand is Ralph Lauren, across all sub-brands, the older the better.
GF: What is/are your favourite individual item(s) of clothing?
KM: I love all my children equally but am particularly fond of a 1940’s-inspired tan leather motorcycle jacket and jumbo-wale chocolate corduroy suit with bellowed poacher pockets, both by Ralph. Also, love my collection of patterned scarves and an unstructured three-roll-two suit in a washed navy chalk stripe wool, both by Drakes. I love tweed but my all-time favourite is a 1980’s cashmere gun check by Jaeger. On denim, I regularly turn to my indigo Visvim kimono shirt as a simple throw-on with Saint James Breton tops. And, my go-to boots are always RM Williams.
Khabi Mirza: Outfit 4 (details below) |
GF: Would you say that your style is still developing? If so, how?
KM: I’m certainly dialing down my sportswear, and while I still enjoy the relaxed comfort of a reverse-weave vintage Champion sweatshirt and training pants - US collegiate styles please - I tend to wear these only at home. And, while I’ve always had a fondness for tailoring there is more in my wardrobe now than ever before. Just praying for more post-Pandemic opportunities to dust down my suits.
GF: What skills would you say that you have that help you in your search for style?
KM: My style is an inextricably intertwined expression of my mood. And, my moods are in constant flux. I have a thirst for colour, pattern and texture, and enjoy combining pieces which belong to different genres. So, I will happily layer tweed with a military field jacket and denim jeans. But most of all I thoroughly and genuinely enjoy clothing. My sartorial joy spectrum extends beyond menswear to women’s fashion, footwear, kids’ clothing and beyond. While I may not always be enthralled by seasonal trends, I still have a thirst for them and love to explore bricks and mortar stores on a weekly basis. But my main passion is hunting for vintage, pre-loved or used styles. The pursuit of style has always been a passion, but I never let that adventure drift into the realms of pomp or snobbery.
GF: What are your top tips for others on a search for style?
KM: Begin by getting intimate with your body shape, sizing and what silhouettes work best for your frame in terms of scale. Someone with a more modest height, for example, might look to the shorter jackets generally espoused by the Japanese and Italians. Being honest about what you can pull off in terms of passing the pub test could also help you swerve some potentially costly purchasing errors.
Most importantly, populate your wardrobe with well-constructed, seasonless classics and weave in pops of personality using flashes of colour or print. You may have a particular styling signature which is unique to you, for example Fiat owner Gianni Agnelli whose tendency to wear his watch over his shirt cuffs helped underline his reputation as a style raconteur. And don’t be afraid to experiment. Try working a style into an outfit which on paper might seem incongruous to the overall look but which, by its disruptive nature, helps to create a stylistic impression. The Italians call is sprezzatura.
Most importantly, populate your wardrobe with well-constructed, seasonless classics and weave in pops of personality using flashes of colour or print. You may have a particular styling signature which is unique to you, for example Fiat owner Gianni Agnelli whose tendency to wear his watch over his shirt cuffs helped underline his reputation as a style raconteur. And don’t be afraid to experiment. Try working a style into an outfit which on paper might seem incongruous to the overall look but which, by its disruptive nature, helps to create a stylistic impression. The Italians call is sprezzatura.
GF: Where can you be found on Instagram and other media?
KM: I try to post outfits as regularly as poss on Insta via @khabism. We regularly update our fashion agency work on Fabricpr.com, and I can also be found on LinkedIn.
GF: Many thanks, Khabi. A wonderfully entertaining account of your style journey.
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Below are details of Khabi's outfits above:
PICTURED BRANDS:
OUTFIT 1
BALLANTYNE CASHMERE ROLL-BECK KNIT (VINTAGE)
CARUSO PUPPYTOOTH SUIT
BURBERRY TRENCH COAT (VINTAGE)
BARBOUR SOCKS
RUSSELL & BROMLEY SUEDE TASSLE LOAFEROUTFIT 2
HAVERSACK SHIRT
JOHNSTON OF ELGIN CASHMERE KNIT (VINTAGE)
ENGINEERED GARMENTS CHESTNUT CORD JACKET
POLO RALPH LAUREN CORD PLEAT-FRONT TROUSERS (VINTAGE)
ANONYMOUSISM SOCKS
SEBAGO SHOES
OUTFIT 3
POLO RALPH LAUREN CHAMBRAY SHIRT
DRAKES TIE
DRAKES SCARF
LUBIAM JACKET
RRL JEANS
GUCCI LOAFERS
OUTFIT 4
POLO RALPH LAUREN SHIRT
DRAKES SHETLAND CABLE JUMPER
AQUASCUTUM GUN CHECK TWEED COAT (VINTAGE)
LEVI’S 501 JEANS
ANONYMOUSISM SOCKS
DRAKES CROSBY BOOTS
SCOTCH & SODA TOTE BAG
EBBETS FIELD FLANNELS CAP
PICTURED BRANDS:
OUTFIT 1
BALLANTYNE CASHMERE ROLL-BECK KNIT (VINTAGE)
CARUSO PUPPYTOOTH SUIT
BURBERRY TRENCH COAT (VINTAGE)
BARBOUR SOCKS
RUSSELL & BROMLEY SUEDE TASSLE LOAFEROUTFIT 2
HAVERSACK SHIRT
JOHNSTON OF ELGIN CASHMERE KNIT (VINTAGE)
ENGINEERED GARMENTS CHESTNUT CORD JACKET
POLO RALPH LAUREN CORD PLEAT-FRONT TROUSERS (VINTAGE)
ANONYMOUSISM SOCKS
SEBAGO SHOES
OUTFIT 3
POLO RALPH LAUREN CHAMBRAY SHIRT
DRAKES TIE
DRAKES SCARF
LUBIAM JACKET
RRL JEANS
GUCCI LOAFERS
OUTFIT 4
POLO RALPH LAUREN SHIRT
DRAKES SHETLAND CABLE JUMPER
AQUASCUTUM GUN CHECK TWEED COAT (VINTAGE)
LEVI’S 501 JEANS
ANONYMOUSISM SOCKS
DRAKES CROSBY BOOTS
SCOTCH & SODA TOTE BAG
EBBETS FIELD FLANNELS CAP