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Grey Fox

A mature search for style. Fashion and menswear for all men.

Saturday, 13 November 2021

Menswear Classics 2: The Covert Coat

This is second in a series of features on the classics of menswear.

The covert (pronounced 'cover') coat is part of the heritage of British gentleman’s clothing, so much so that the V&A museum has one from Cordings of Piccadilly in its permanent collection. Its versatility, tailored lines and functional style means that it has become a modern classic. As a lover of menswear classics I own one from Cordings, where it's been a staple for many years. 


The covert coat was designed as a riding jacket (hence the long back vent) that could also be worn in town. The ‘dun’ colour and slightly textured look to the cloth was developed so that it didn’t show horse hair or mud and the tightly woven cloth is tear resistant. The stitch marks around the hem and cuffs were originally a way of repairing tears in the coat, and became a design feature as they strengthen these areas of wear. I've found it comfortable, stylish and versatile; as wearable with jeans and knitwear as with a suit.


Some have a replaceable velvet top collar added to make the coat look less worn. Inside is a large ‘poachers pocket’ which can fit partridge, pheasant, sandwiches or newspaper. The Cordings coats are made in England from cloth woven in the West of England by Fox Brothers, who were responsible for weaving the original cloth over a century ago.

The covert coat as illustrated by Laurence Fellows

They are available from Cordings in the traditional fawn, in navy or herringbone tweed. Cordings advise that, 'They are sized to sit over a jacket, so if you are a 42R in a jacket you would buy the corresponding size in a covert, so if you want to wear it as a neater coat over a sweater, you would need to do down a size'.

Although it has its origins in the country, the covert coat can be worn in town. I've found its plain colour just as useful for wearing over tweed, flannel and pinstripe suits as over denims or corduroy - versatile is the word. A museum piece maybe, but a very useful contemporary classic too. See Cordings of Piccadilly.

To see the covert coat at the V&A (also from Cordings) click here.

See Menswear Classics
at 15:32
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