In my previous post I described how Seaward & Stearn made me an ancient madder tie in their London workshops. I've long had a fascination with ancient madder, which sounds more like an ingredient for a witch's brew than a printed silk. I asked Steve Reid of Seaward & Stearn to tell us more about it and am grateful to him for the below:
[Steve Reid writes] The home of English ancient madder is Macclesfield, where today it survives in small specialist workshops.
It is a process of skill and hands-on craftsmanship which begins, of course, with the design. Designs are always screen-printed onto a white twill silk fabric. Originally it was the rubia tinctoria plant that provided the colour for madder, offering reds, mustards, greens and blues.
After the designs are printed they are steamed and washed. When dry, the printed fabric is cut into 12 yard lengths for dipping into indigo dye vats 8 feet deep. Stirred by hand for 10 minutes, the fabrics are then spun dry and left to hang for 15 minutes in order to oxidise. This process is repeated a further two times, after-which the silk is washed.
Throughout this process the print colours of the design resist the indigo dye, so it is only the unprinted areas that it covers, essentiially blotting out the white of the silk; which is why no white will ever be seen on a madder silk fabric. It is the whole handling process that adds to the softening of the silk, giving it the quality and texture we recognise as the madder finish; with the washing process subduing the colours and giving them their dusty, muted look.
Madder fabrics almost always come in paisleys or neat repeats (often with a floret).
The colour softness achieved from the madder process balances against the intricacy of these designs and removes any brashness. This results in a dynamic pattern, but one that is not overwhelming. As the madder silk is hand crafted over a 12 yard length of silk each 12 yard fabric will be unique, with another 12 yards length potentially having subtle shade differences. The indigo dye vats need 24 hours to rest and settle after 25 yards of silk has been processed, so true madders can only be produced in small quantities.
The ‘ancient’ part of the name is largely unexplained, though can be attached to the the age of the process, identifying it from more modern techniques that seek to obtain the look. The designs also are distinctly classic. Victorian popularity in England for madder spread to the US and Ivy League colleges the following century around the 1930's, where it was recognised as a conservative alternative to stripes. True madders are revered due to their unique craftsmanship and rich heritage. The madder purist will be resolute in seeking out a real ancient madder and investing in this classic style. Some Seaward & Stearn designs are shown below.
Our thanks to Robert Keyte of Robert Keyte Silks for his guidance in writing this.
