The Suit, Form, Function & Style is written by Christopher Breward, Principal of Edinburgh College of Art and Professor of Cultural History at Edinburgh University. While somewhat academic in style, this is a fascinating social and cultural history of the suit.
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Image © Woolmark Archive (Australian Wool Innovation Ltd) and the London College of Fashion (top right)
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The suit is such a familiar garment nowadays that we rarely think about its origins. These lie in the end of the 17th century when its pervasive influence began, originating as a symbol of status and becoming democratised throughout the last century. Now its classic lines are worked on by menswear designers keen to 'prove their iconoclastic intent', as Breward describes it. But, as ever in fashion (and menswear in particular), change is more apparent than real and Breward concludes that the suit remains 'a prized symbol of distinction and power...' He sees it as enduring for at least another 400 years, a conclusion I'd agree with.
I'd add to Breward's conclusion by adding my view that the suit has extended its life by taking on a role as a casual garment. With more comfortable construction, relaxed fabrics (like denim, cotton and linen) and casual styles, the modern suit is no longer just a formal symbol of status.
Essential reading; persevere with the academic writing style and enjoy this as a book adding much of fascination to the history of the suit. Published by Reaktion Books Ltd, £18.