For spring and summer wear, the unstructured jacket, with linen, cotton, silk and even lightweight tweed or flannel components, is ideal. The absence of lining makes it lighter and cooler. Its informal shape means you can take it off and throw it over one arm without worrying about creases; they're all part and parcel of wearing lightweight jackets and, in my view, improve the looks.
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Most jackets follow the conventional structured approach, with a lining and internal pockets - the fit is generally looser, thicker and more formed than the unstructured jacket, which has no (or only half) lining, fewer pockets (where do you put the lining? There will instead be external patch pockets).
Being unlined, the fit is usually closer, slimmer and more casual. It will follow the curve of the shoulders more closely and move with the wearer more easily. One of my favourites is an unlined tweed jacket bought at a Ralph Lauren sale. So comfortable is it that I wear it around the house like a familiar old cardigan.
Being unlined, the fit is usually closer, slimmer and more casual. It will follow the curve of the shoulders more closely and move with the wearer more easily. One of my favourites is an unlined tweed jacket bought at a Ralph Lauren sale. So comfortable is it that I wear it around the house like a familiar old cardigan.
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| Image from Esquire |
Nothing looks better for semi-formal or casual wear on men of any age than a blue unstructured blazer, cream or khaki chinos or jeans, a pale blue denim shirt, suede brogues or desert boots and a red polka dot pocket square (and some red socks). Add formality with a knitted silk tie in a plain or lightly spotted primary colour.
Shortly I'll answer a reader's question about where to find unstructured jackets at all price levels.
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| Hackett half-lined linen Delave blazer from here |