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Grey Fox

A mature search for style. Fashion and menswear for all men.

Saturday, 15 March 2014

A reader asks: where to find affordable menswear - Sarah Gilfillan answers

I received this comment from  a reader, John, recently -
I really enjoy your blog, however it seems to be aimed at the "affluent" male of a certain age and unfortunately I do not fall into the former category. I would love to source my wardrobe from British manufacturers, but the reality is that I cannot afford to pay the substantial premium that this entails. For example I would like a pair of Cheaney brogues but £350 plus is out of my league so I wear a pair of £79 M&S brogues. I wear a pair of £45 Next selvedge jeans, instead of £150 plus Edwin's etc. I also buy from Topman and ASOS, to achieve many of the looks featured in your blog. I welcome your comments. (By the way this in not a criticism of your blog).
Thank you very much for raising this important point - I welcome such comments. I've asked Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab to advise us. She has much experience of helping clients with styling and clothes purchases.

Uniqlo cashmere crew neck

So, Sarah, where can mature men of style find affordable menswear?

Sarah:   I agree that sometimes we "fashion folk" get carried away by the beautiful products we see which, in reality, are out of reach for lots of people. As a personal stylist, I shop with men of all different ages including many over the age of 40. They have varying budgets so I am challenged to find the best for them within their price range.

Below I've listed some of the places that I have successfully shopped with my clients, finding items they were very happy with, firstly, in terms of fit, price and ability to fit into their lifestyle and, secondly, that we both felt hit the balance between not too young but not veering into 'old and given up' territory.

You may be surprised by some of the shops I suggest, considering them unsuitable, but I urge you to take a look next time you're out shopping or at their online stores.

Cos -

When you look at their website, you may be forgiven for thinking that the clothing is aimed at the very young and hip; but look again - a lot of the things they stock are very simple in design and cut and devoid of too much detail which, in my mind, makes them look contemporary but easy to wear for the older customer . This simplicity means they will integrate well with other pieces in your wardrobe.

My oldest client to date was a charming gentleman of 71. We purchased a number of items from here. I have spoken to his wife since and he's been very pleased with them all - as was she with his updated image!

Cos

Nigel Hall -

I regularly shop at Nigel Hall with a wide variety of clients. They seem to have something for everyone and really tick the boxes of simple style with subtle differences. The trousers go up to a size 38" waist and I'm pleased to see that they are doing XXL (44" chest) again in shirts which they stopped doing for one season. I’d liken them to Ted Baker, but a little more understated and not so well known, which means your clothing won't be instantly recognisable - rather a pet hate of mine.

Nigel Hall

Uniqlo -

I have found some ridiculously cheap and more than fabulous things in Uniqlo for clients. I remember one linen blazer in a small grey check that fitted my lovely client (who was short and rather round) beautifully and looked stunning - and it was about £35! I also favour their jeans and chinos and love that they'll take them up for you in store for free and often within a couple of hours. Their brilliant cashmere comes in soooo many colours!

My trendy Japanese hairdresser, (who's under 40) loves Uniqlo and will style it up a bit, but it can be worn as simply as you like.
  
Reiss -

This is a place I shop with guys of all ages and they often comment that they thought it was just for younger guys and would never normally go in. I agree it does have a fashion slant and I've found recently that the trousers are rather too skinny to work for some clients; but for shirts, knitwear and outerwear it’s classic with a very modern edge. I’d say it works best on guys that are slight or of a smaller stature.

Reiss

Banana Republic -

Great for basics and one of the only places that you can get blazers/sports jackets in the different lengths that are usually confined to suiting - very useful to know if you are particularly tall or short. I got a great couple of blazers here with a tall client who was in his late fifties plus lots of shirts and some excellent Prada-esque smart trainers. It's worth signing up to their newsletter as they often have loads of great discount offers. Sizes run large here.

Banana Republic

Massimo Dutti -

The older brother of Zara, and another place I shop in with clients in their late 40's and 50's. I would describe the pieces they have as elegant with a European style chic to them, usually in subtle and muted colours.  I'd say it's cut on the smaller, slim side, so not perfect for everyone, but well worth checking out.

Massimo Dutti

Kin by John Lewis -

I must admit I haven't actually shopped with anyone from this range but I've seen it and thought it looked really good and as the tagline says "Affordable, well designed, contemporary, yet timeless". I think that sums it up really well - contemporary yet timeless is exactly what I think is right for the older guy, and it does look like it's extremely good value. [Grey Fox: I have some of the range and can confirm that it is both good value, stylish and reasonably well-made].

Kin by John Lewis

In case you're wondering why Marks & Spencer is missing from this list - it's not because I don't like what they're doing, but just because most people already shop there and as men are usually creatures of habit with regard to clothes shopping, I try to introduce them to new places so they can expand their horizons when next shopping by themselves. And besides, you should know all about M&S if you've been paying attention to Grey Fox's previous posts!

Grey Fox: Many thanks, Sarah. I would add Debenhams Hammond & Co to this list. I will be writing about them again shortly [Ed. see here]. This collection, designed by Patrick Grant, contains excellently-made clothes in a classic very contemporary style. I'd also like to mention one more point -

The quality/price equation

Care needs to be taken that quality isn't compromised by cheapness. Clothes that last a few months may be cheap in the short term, but good quality will last longer, making better-made clothes a better investment. Most of the brands mentioned by Sarah combine quality with low prices, but I've bought clothes from one of the retailers mentioned above (Massimo Dutti) that hardly lasted six months. I accept that this can happen with even pricey garments and it will depend on the individual item. Check carefully for strong seams, well-attached buttons and scrunch up the fabric to ensure it is not so thin and mean that it will quickly look shabby.

There is a strong argument for buying better-made clothes as investments - you can always find them at good prices in the sales, but if the ready cash isn't available you have, as Sarah has pointed out, an excellent choice from more economically-priced brands on the high street and online.

[Ed. Since this was posted, Sarah has helpfully put together a capsule collection to illustrate how clothes from these suppliers can be put together for Spring on her own website here].

I know we haven't been comprehensive in our selection. If you have any more suggestions for us, please let is know by e-mail or comment below.

If you have any questions for Grey Fox, please e-mail.

at 08:09
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