Harris tweed jacket - British fabric and British manufactured

Earlier this month I reported on a Harris tweed jacket from John Lewis (see here). I found one in my local John Lewis store and after trying it on over several visits (do other men take as long as I do to decide on a purchase?) I bought it, impressed by its look and cut. I own other Harris tweed jackets, which are hardly modern in cut, being long in the body, wide over the shoulders and baggy in arm and chest.

This, the John Lewis and Co Harris tweed work-wear blazer, is quite different and subtly applies a modern twist to a very traditional garment. The slim cut and modern shape blends successfully with the traditional dogtooth check tweed, which is a mix of glorious moss greens, bright blue, charcoal grey and orange/brown (the photo below shows these colours most accurately, but is still too blue). The jacket has a handsome deep blue lining and geography teachers' leather elbow patches.

For £299 I now own a jacket which was manufactured in this country and (according to the John Lewis website) was produced as part of the John Lewis and Co. range (see [link removed]) in a limited run of 20 only!

I only have two gripes, firstly the buttoned tab at the collar is far too tight to enable the collar to be closed against the elements. Secondly, the "working cuffs" don't work as the buttons have been stitched across the buttonholes - hardly signs of John Lewis's claimed "meticulous attention to detail". However, overall this is a jacket that should have sold out quickly as it would have cost much more from an established design label. 

There are other cheaper jackets in the range, but not all are Harris tweed and they do not specifically claim to be British-made, which suggests to me that they are not, nor are they claimed to be limited editions.

There is, at the time of writing, one other limited edition British-made Harris tweed jacket in grey herringbone on JL's website -[link removed as out of stock]- pictured below. Start panic buying now!

Remembering Robert Falcon Scott of the Antarctic

On 17th January I posted a piece (here) to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Captain Robert Falcon Scott reaching the South Pole.

Today is 100 years since his death. It is amazing to think back over those weeks since my post and appreciate the time over which he and his team suffered in the Antarctic wastes.

Inspiration from the Wakhan Corridor in north eastern Afghanistan

I couldn't resist sharing this amazing photographic project carried out in the remote Wakhan Corridor in north-eastern Afghanistan, far from the more troubled parts of that historic country.

The video is self-explanatory. Have a browse around the Varial website where there are some stunning photographs of the same area. While the environment and peoples are remote, harsh and very foreign, the way of life of these hardy peoples is inspiring on many levels. Their elegance, courtesy and self-belief makes them quite remarkable.


Traces of Time - BOOK Trailer from La providence A on Vimeo.

Rolex GMT Master - a watch for the travelling man

The clocks go forward tonight to start British Summer Time and it's an opportunity to look at a watch designed to be worn in multiple time zones. Designed originally for pilots in collaboration with Pan Am Airways in 1954, the Rolex GMT Master has since gone through several design changes, but remains essentially the same, despite Rolex's recent efforts to over-bling their products.

Several simultaneous times can be kept by using the red 24-hour hand and twisting the bezel. This avoids compromising the accuracy of the watch by moving the main hands to adjust to a new time zone.

Although a Rolex is not cheap, it will hold its value well, unlike lesser watch brands whose second-hand values plummet in a car-like fashion immediately after purchase.

A few famous wearers of the GMT Master -

Gene Cernan

Che Guevara

Chuck Yeager

Dressing well in middle age - Paul Weller

A few weeks ago I was looking for a double-breasted jacket on-line (see here). These photos of Paul Weller show how such jackets can suit the older man, classic, yet smart or casual as needed. Of course, Weller looks good in his older years. The hair is slightly Rod Stewart, but he's clearly a man comfortable with his own style, one of the secrets of dressing well.

I like the top jacket, with the contrasting white buttons giving it a jaunty nautical feel. It's by Beams Plus at Mr Porter where you can see more about Weller's sartorial tastes.

Is it time for the return of the cravat?

I can just remember my father wearing cravats in the sixties - always silk and always paisley pattern. They kept his neck warm and protected his shirt collar from the grime; what's not to like?

Maybe it's time for the return of the cravat. They can be picked up for next to nothing a eBay at the moment. I'm tempted to try and will report back in due course.

Here's a link to a video on how to tie a cravat How To Tie A Cravat (Style For Men) 

Socks appeal for Spring - breaking all the rules

Sartorial experts would have us wearing socks that match our trousers (or pants if you're American; but that gets confusing for those on this side of the pond who don't see the need to match socks and underwear). The reason apparently is that it makes out legs look longer. I don't follow the logic of this advice as you will usually only see a man's socks when he is sitting down; a time when it's hard to judge leg length.

Anyway, rules are made to be broken. I was clearing all the odd socks out of my drawer when I thought I'd try a few colour combinations with my pink, blue and khaki chinos. The blue ones are a very old pair that have survived many years of patching and probably deserve a post of their own one day. Without doing this intentionally most of these combinations are based on complementary colours (at opposite ends of a colour wheel - see below), although others are more harmonious combinations (like blue and purple). If you have an idle moment you can experiment by playing around with your socks, trousers and a colour wheel!

 

Bill Cunningham - New York fashion photographer

Released yesterday for showing in UK cinemas from today is a documentary about an intriguing character. Bill Cunningham is a photographer who has been recording New York fashion for fifty years, travelling around the city on his ancient but trusty Schwinn bicycle. No convert to modern digital techniques, Bill still relies on his film Nikon.

In response to Bill's natural reticence, the film was made without a crew, using a hand-held camera. His shyness and reluctance to reveal himself seems a refreshing breeze through a world so often seen by outsiders as self-absorbed and superficial. In many ways (and this will seem strange) he reminds me of my mother who was mad on fashion and clothes, but never managed to dress well herself, so with Bill Cunningham.

See here for details of UK screenings over the next few weeks.

Can a middle aged man wear pink chinos?

When I started sailing over thirty years ago I noticed the beautifully faded red or pink sailing trousers worn by many old salts. My new chinos from Ted Baker exactly reproduce that colour. I bought a similar pair from Boden a few years ago, but they languished unworn in a drawer until they went off to a charity shop a few months ago. They didn't fit well and the pink was unrelentingly bright; no doubt they would have faded to a more attractive shade if I'd given them a chance.

There is a similar colour trouser (or pant) in the USA in the shape of Nantucket Reds. You can browse the collection here - I'd be tempted, but most shipments are a hefty $50.

And to answer the question in the title - why not? Pink trousers, pink socks, pink shirts, pink ties - bring them on! If you like a colour, wear it.

[For an alternative and highly entertaining view of red (and possibly pink) trousers, see here. Do you still feel the same way about them?]

FE Castleberry Collection

Mystic River Yacht Club

Colour combinations 4 - woodland colours

Walking the dog in the park I took some pictures of the remarkable colours. The wood is very much as it was in Autumn, but the warm Spring sunshine is bringing it alive with birds and squirrels. The trees are covered in an almost luminous green lichen and the natural greys, creams, greens, yellows and browns in assorted textures may provide inspiration for the wardrobe of a man of style.

And here's how these colour influences might be used -

 

Grey Fox is three months old - over 6,000 visits - thanks all

I started this blog three months ago to describe a man's search for style in middle age. Inevitably it has gone well some days, slowly on others - I am always looking for a fresh approach and new ideas. I would like to thank everyone who has visited, particularly those who have left interesting and encouraging comments. The blog has had over 6,000 individual visits, with more than 12,000 page views, nothing compared to the great men's fashion blogs, but it's early days and I have much to learn.

I should again thank the Sartorialist, whose blog I stumbled across one day and realised that there can be style in middle age - I celebrate with some of the Sart's photos below.

I'm still looking for another blog with a similar theme - older women receive excellent coverage from many blogs; middle age men do not - and I'm struggling to understand why that is. Are older men not interested or are they content with the generally youth-oriented fashions covered in the men's style blogs?

I'm still uncertain what it is I'm looking for - classic clothes provide one answer, but I wonder if there's a less safe and more exciting way forward for the older man wanting to dress well without looking like mutton dressed as lamb. The search continues. Feel free to get in touch with me, here or on Twitter.

Photo the Sartorialist

Photo the Sartorialist

Photo the Sartorialist

What they wore - London Fashion Week - Mr Porter video

I make no apologies for showing another excellent Mr Porter video. As sources of inspiration they are invaluable. What stands out for me here are the pocket squares, brogues and scarves. In fact, I've been on the lookout for a vintage Tootal scarf.

I remember my father wearing paisley pattern cravats and scarves when I was little - and such memories influence fashion style. It's such details that can lift an otherwise unremarkable outfit.

 

You're never too old for Ivy League style

The Ivy League look dates from the fifties, but has been persistent in its influence since. I bought Graham Marsh and JP Gaul's The Ivy Look recently to see if it would assist my search for middle-age style. It struck me that the original proponents must now be in their seventies and eighties. However, because it has become such a classic style it can be worn by any age - and no doubt some of the originals still don their Bass Weejuns and button-down collar shirts each morning. 

The look was adopted on both sides of the Atlantic, but those generally associated with the style are American, for example, the Kennedy family and Steve McQueen.

A book I must buy!

Quite coincidentally, I was wearing a Gant button-down and a Brooks Brothers sweater this morning. With a Harris tweed jacket there is a hint of Ivy League maybe? At least I can claim it as an influence.

A modern take on a very traditional Harris tweed jacket

In my search for middle age style I'm always on the lookout for modern takes on traditional clothes. The traditional tweed jacket is generally not well-tailored; it's usually a bit sack-like in cut, a little long in the body for today's taste and (for me) too wide across the shoulders. This limited edition Harris tweed jacket from John Lewis is cut short, slim and slightly waisted, but comes with traditional features like leather arm patches, dogtooth check fabric and flapped pockets. As such, it's ideal for all ages, as it combines traditional and modern styles so well.

It's good to see British design and manufacturing being supported by a large retailer. The jacket is [was] available on-line [link broken, sorry] for a reasonable £299.

All photos John Lewis

Vintage track cycling jersey - 1968 Skol Six Day Race

This track cycling jersey is from the 1968 Skol Track Cycle Race in Wembley, London. Six day racing was tough; it started with individual riders racing for six days, the winner being the cyclist who covered most laps in that time. By 1968 it was a team event, with team members taking it in turns to rest.

This jersey was worn by team 9, to be Tony Gowland and John Clarey. However, Clarey was injured and this jersey was worn by his replacement, Jim Moore, who is pictured in the photograph below.

I love the excitement of track cycling, particularly at a time when Great Britain has such strength in depth and a beautiful new track, in the run-up to the London Olympics (see my post here) . This vintage jersey exudes the noise, speed and atmosphere of closely-fought track racing.

See here and here and here for more information.