Buy British Day - a selection of Made in UK menswear for you to try (& some discount codes)

Buy British Day arrives this week (details below*) and offers you the opportunity to familiarise yourself with some of the great brands, large and small, that make menswear (and other things) here in the UK. 

Making shirts at Turnbull & Asser's factory in Gloucester (image Grey Fox)

Below I round-up of some of my favourite brands, limiting it to a selection of those whose products (1) I own or have been given the chance to try over the last year and (2) are made mostly in the UK. Some offer a discount for Buy British Day and I've added it where I know of it. Others may offer one that I'm not aware of, so check first.

Many other brands that I know and love, such as Realm & Empire, Drake's, M&S and Oliver Sweeney, make some of their products in the UK, but are excluded from this summary to fit with the theme of Buy British Day. 

British-made tailoring from Susannah Hall (see below) 

Grey Fox wearing all British - Tusting, Spoke, Pantherella, Cheaney

I emphasise that this is a partial selection. However, I've listed over 420 suppliers of British-made menswear here on the blog (click on the link to have a browse). Please mention Grey Fox Blog is you visit any of them. Happy Hunting!

Ties, cravats, pocket squares

Cravat Cub - silk pocket squares and cravats. Discount 5% and chance to win products for Buy British Day (BUYBRITISHDAY)

Geoff Stocker - beautifully designed by Geoff Stocker himself

Age of Reason - silk squares designed by Ali Mapletoft in Brighton.

General menswear

E. Tautz - mainly made in their recently acquired Blackburn factory, great design and construction

Susannah Hall - shirts and tailoring all made in the UK

Gloverall - British-made coats and menswear

Private White VC - Manchester made, offer a 15% discount for Buy British Day (BUYBRITISH)

Quantock Clothing - jeans, knitwear, shirt all made in the UK.

Knitwear 

Leith Clothing - Shetland jumpers in multiple glorious colours

Quiggleys - great jumpers made in Scotland. 20% discount for Buy British Day (code #BuyBritishDay)

Country of Origin - hand-framed knitwear

Shirts

TriplStitched - shirts made in London - see the Grey Fox x TriplStitched collaboration

Socks

Pantherella - socks for all styles and tastes, made in Leicester

Shoes (miscellaneous)

Loake - Northamptonshire traditional shoemaking

Cheaney - ditto

Norman Walsh (trainers) - trainers made in Bolton

REW Reynolds (cycle shoes) - traditional leather cycling shoes made with a modern twist

Luggage and leatherwear

Tusting - leather bags made in Buckinghamshire. 10% discount until 11 October (code BUYBRITISH)

Holdall & Co - by young designer Rai Navickaite

Umbrellas

London Undercover - brollies made in England

Mr Stanford - ditto, made in Spitalfields, London

Shaving and grooming

DR Harris - currently my favourite post-shave creams, unguents and fragrances

Penhaligon's - manly fragrances from this well-established company

Gruhme - new on the block; fine fragrances for men

Underwear

British Boxers - boxer shorts. 20% discount to blog readers (code GREYFOX)
Penny Dreadful - slightly naughty boxer shorts
Cahoonas - shaped to allow for umm... errr... how you hang your tackle

*About Buy British Day

Buy British Day 2015 takes place on Saturday October 3rd 2015, with mini Best of Britannia pop-up events in London and Preston, encouraging consumers to support brands and businesses that design and manufacture in Britain.

The day is an initiative from Best of Britannia, an annual event and website that showcases more than 200 of the best British-made brands and products. Buy British Day aims to engage with consumers who care about the provenance of what they’re buying.

Buy British Day is at London’s Kings Cross where it teams up with Wayne Hemingway’s The Classic Car Boot Sale in Granary Square and in central Preston, in a pop-up retail outlet in the middle of the Fishergate shopping centre and on the Preston Train Station concourse.

Buy British Day launched - Friday 3 October 2014

Yesterday Best of Britannia unveiled Buy British Day which is to take place on Friday October 3rd 2014 to coincide with the first consumer day of the annual Best of Britannia event. The Day will focus attention on the provenance and quality of the huge range of great products produced in Britain.

The panel included Timothy Everest (left) and William Church of Cheaney Shoes (2nd from right)

I will revisit this event later in the year. As I've said many times in my writing, it is ironic that British products (menswear in particular) are appreciated more overseas than at home for their quality and heritage. Buy British Day has been launched to change that.

It was wonderful to see so many of the made in Britain brands I've had the privilege to mention here on Grey Fox, including, Walsh Trainers, Cheaney Shoes, Age of Reason scarves, Cherchbi, Susannah Hall Tailors and others. Some I know, but haven't yet talked about here, like Chapman Bags and Carradice cycle bags. Others, excitingly, were new to me and I hope to write about them in future, such as Jessica de Lotz jewellery, Doe Leather and Caterina Belluardo shoes. There are many other brands involved, of course.

Please support Buy British Day on the 3rd October by seeking out the fantastic range of British-produced goods on offer throughout the UK or at Best of Britannia.

Friday favourites: Scott Fraser, Jacamo all sizes, next week Buy British Day

Scott Fraser London-made jackets

I haven't featured Scott Fraser for a while, but he's been busy designing his range of British-made menswear and has now added the reversible, zip-up, shawl-collared Campus Jacket. 

They are manufactured to order in London and are made from a variety of short-pile velvet, Melton wool and denim. Inspired by the Ivy Leaguers' blouson/windbreaker/baseball/golf/bomber jacket/Harrington of the 1950s, they would suit any age, worn with jeans or chinos, brogues or penny loafers, button-down shirt and tie.

The jacket's available in navy blue velvet/denim reversible, ochre velvet/blue denim reversible or red velvet/wool check reversible. See Scott Fraser's website for more information and to buy.

Jacamo - a brand for all sizes and ages of man

I receive a lot of questions relating to style choices from men for whom standard clothes sizes don't work and have recently posted advice about this from stylist, Sarah Gilfillan, on these pages. 

I recently went to the launch of the flagship Jacamo store in Oxford Street, London and have found a retailer aiming to stylishly cater for all sizes and shapes of man. To underline this the store was opened by the England fast bowler, Fred Flintoff who assured me that his height and muscular build didn't prevent his getting a suit off the peg at Jacamo.

Chatting to the tall (I'm 6ft), but still Jacamo-sized, Fred Flintoff at the Oxford Street store launch

I noticed that a row of men's suit trousers ranged in size from 34" to 54" and I believe this may shortly include 32" waists as well, so Jacamo must be the first port of call for the larger man.

Buy British Day - Next Friday, 3rd October. 

To mark Buy British Day next Friday and Best of Britannia at the end of next week, I'll be having a Best of British Menswear and Accessories week next week. I've had to select a few brands from the hundreds available (see my list of Made in UK menswear), but I hope it will encourage you to explore the creativity and skills available in the UK. 

Why not buy menswear sustainably and locally, rather than cheaply from abroad?

Buy British Day

Best of Britannia

'Brutus' - Photo Grey Fox - taken at Private White VC in Manchester

Best of British Friday - Harry Stedman menswear, Tyler & Tyler cufflinks

To celebrate Buy British Day, here are two more brands manufacturing here in the UK. This forms part of my Best of British Menswear Week.

Harry Stedman

...is a contemporary menswear brand named after the father of the brand's MD. A great traveller, Harry soaked up the culture and style of the many countries he visited after escaping Liverpool to join the army. In the same way, the label fuses many influences, particularly US and British from the fifties and sixties, to produce very modern classics.

Much of the collection is made in the UK, and I picture a few of these below. You may recognise some of the British names on the labels.

This is a brand to explore; see Harry Stedman's website for more.

Tyler & Tyler 

...is a menswear accessories brand with its origins in the British manufacture. Their collection includes wide range of men's accessories, from underwear to socks, ties, pocket squares and key rings.

I'm focusing on their Birmingham-made Capsule collection of cufflinks today. Each is named after a Birmingham engineer, celebrating the city's engineering heritage. This heritage and skill has been used in the design of these cufflinks which are made from aircraft-grade aluminium with various technical coatings.

Available soon from Wolf & Badger. See Tyler & Tyler. 

The Dandy Lab: Support the store of the future and British menswear manufacture - on Kickstarter

With Buy British Day coming up this week, now is a good time to launch The Dandy Lab Project on Kickstarter. The Dandy Lab is an innovative shop which will feature the best of British-made menswear and accessories. The project already has some impressive backers, who recognise the future shape of men's shopping in the highly-interactive technological experience which will be offered.

Please take a moment to watch this video and consider pledging to support a great idea and British menswear design and manufacture. See The Dandy Lab on Kickstarter.

Vintage Clothing: by Gillan Bell of Retro Vintage Love

I've mentioned vintage clothing here on a few occasions, but not yet spoken to an expert. I follow Gillan Bell of Retro Vintage Love on Instagram, browse his shop from time to time and have bought from him in the past, so was delighted when he agreed to share his expertise with readers of this blog.

GF: Many thanks for this interview, Gillan, please introduce yourself.

GB: Hello, I'm Gillan Bell of Retro Vintage Love. My journey buying and selling vintage menswear and accessories began back in 2006. I was twenty years old and fresh out of catering college after a three year course that had set me up for life in the food preparation industry. 

So, how does a man with a passion for food end up selling vintage clothing which was not even on the radar? Although style and history were very much a personal interest of mine, I never connected the two. It started with my Dad's Pringle sports sweater, (made in Scotland from the mid 1980’s, I believe). It was the jet black colour-way with the famous Lion embroidery in white, do you know the one? After a rather surprising sale on the well-known auction website that we all love, eBay, I was hooked. You never forget your first sale. My dad will tell you that he had every colour Pringle sports sweater ever produced back in the day. Well, he had a few less after I sold that first one. 

GF: What sorts of vintage clothing and accessories do you find are popular to buy now?

GB: That's not an easy question to answer. There are common sense rules and then there is instinct. A clothing palette should complement the season of the year. Modern fashion follows the rule of light colours for spring and summer and darker tones for autumn and winter. That also applies to vintage clothing to an extent. Only with vintage attire you have the luxury of mix and matching to your own preferred style and era; a trend that no one else can imitate. That's where the instinct comes in. You have to have some vision, outside your own tastes, on how someone else might mix it up. With that said, it seems every piece has a time to shine. The hard job is keeping up with the supply and demand for trends that can change in a heartbeat.

Over the years, I have noticed a big movement in the military scene, especially British and US wartime attire. Pieces can include workwear (HBT), battledress and camouflage (earlier patterns). Away from army surplus, patchwork denim seems to have taken off somewhat. Along with civilian dress, personalised souvenir jackets, worn-in leather biker jackets, stencilled goods and Native American jewellery. As it goes, anything with charm and character seems to go down very well, although it seems this changes hourly.

Those in the vintage game will understand that it isn’t simply a hunt for the well established brands, like the Burberry, Belstaff or Harris Tweed labels that we all rally for. With vintage lovers, it is much more of a personal journey. For me, it's finding that unremarkable piece that everyone has overlooked but ends up telling a remarkable story. That is what makes this job most enjoyable. As a buyer and a seller it allows me to branch out where there simply are no rules.

GF: What should anyone wanting to buy vintage think about? What advice would you give?

GB: When buying vintage clothing I look at the quality; the smallest detail as to how it was made, the history of where it was made, the people who made it and the current overall condition. 

Another key point is practicality; like buying from the High Street. Nothing sells faster than an item with that off-the-peg feeling. You also want to build a reputation that your customers go away knowing they won’t be sending a piece out for repairs after a week of wearing. Some sellers forget to check areas prone to wear, be it zips, linings, insoles, for example. Closely check the seams, especially when it comes to buying denim and leather goods. It's also important to know the difference between the unflattering "worn out" look of a garment versus and the comfortable signs of wear that adds to the overall vintage charm. 

You’d be surprised at what inspires designers nowadays. That sun faded jacket you bought in 1980 may just be the in-thing this season. On a serious note, this is what many vintage retailers are looking for. So, having a sense of current fashion trends is as important as thoroughly knowing vintage fashion trends.

Of course, you must have good business sense and have some sense of value for money or collecting vintage clothing will just be a disappointing hobby. Like everything we buy in life, we want to go away smiling. Be aware of sellers charging over the odds. Do your research from more than one source before committing on any sale. You never know, we may be selling for half the price! ;)

GF: Do you ever have items you find hard to sell as you like them so much - give example?

GB: Most certainly. This has become a daily battle of late it seems. Those who know how I work will understand the lengths I go to when it comes to gathering research on the history of a manufacturer's label on any given item. This often leads to learning the in-depth company heritage. That leads to when a garment was made. A specific year's run will have telling signs that differ from previous or later made garments; how, when and where the garment was worn. There is also the fun of learning about the famous faces who may have worn such garments in their heyday.

Often, the garment will have an owner's label revealing, in fact, who wore a specific garment. It can be the owner's posh monogram or a handwritten name, school or home address written in addition to or on the manufacturer's label. Then, the history of a garment comes alive. It can reveal the age its owner lived in, his exploits, his interests, his character, the famous relative who may have brushed up against this very sleeve. The story. Thus, finding it difficult to part with the connection.

And never forgetting those pieces worn by ex-servicemen and women. The owner's labels that reveal a military unit, home town, where stationed or what year. Those labels can reveal heroes and the history they may have made wearing the garment. I'm especially keen on those stories of local interest. It isn’t every day that you find a rucksack that has seen action during the WWII Normandy landings or a German Waffen-SS NCO belt dug out of the trenches, or military equipment owned by Prince Harry's right-hand man's grandfather, Lieutenant-Colonel Francis Gordon Ward Lane Fox (formerly Jackson).

A few of my personal favourites stand out: pieces include a late 1950’s ‘Barbour Suit’ waxed motorcycle jacket as worn by Steve McQueen. There is a tunic made by Film & Theatre costumiers M.Berman Ltd - Designers of the famous dayglo-coloured military-style uniforms made for The Beatles during the filming of Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band album cover and video. Personal belongings owned by a local Commanding Officer / P.O.W. (125th Anti-Tank Regiment “Sunderland’s Own” RA) during WWII, Battle of Singapore have become dear to me. 

Motorcycle gear made by Britain’s oldest motorcycling clothing company: Lewis Leathers. Est.1892. (D.Lewis Ltd).

The original CC41 Utility Clothing from 1941-1952. Others include: panel-stitched flags stretching from WWI / Early twentieth century morning and evening attire, tailcoats, waistcoats, shirts and collapsible top hats / Battledress to include a 1943 Royal Australian Air Force jacket / Post-war college sporting blazers / Levi’s Strauss & Co (Pre 1971) / Mountaineering equipment to include canvas rucksacks dating from 1910 -1970 / Barbour raincoats pre 1980 / Bench-made leather shoes / 

Sporting related items to include fishing and hunting bags / Officers field boots with wooden lasts / GF Ray-Ban sunglasses by Bausch & Lomb U.S.A. / French chore wear / R.A.F. Air Ministry issued sheepskin flying jackets / British-made leather satchels and briefcases. Also not forgetting a wonderful vintage Grenfell Shooter Jacket!!

On the whole, I much prefer to buy than to sell…(He admits).

GF: Do you wear vintage clothes and accessories yourself?

This is the one question I get asked the most. You would think I would be dressed to the nines from any decade. As much as I follow current trends, it is a challenge to keep up with supplying the nation with vintage clothing on a day to day basis. 

There were episodes where I wore loud tees, drainpipes and winkle pickers. Today, you will most often find me in a mix of light and dark colours, long sleeve shirts, chinos or (it may sound funny) vintage inspired pieces. British made, where possible. Finished by a classic desert boot by Clarks or a pair of Dr.Martens chukka boots in the vein of the Playboy model by Sanders & Sanders of Northampton, England - As worn by the “King of Cool”, Steve McQueen. ;)

Truthfully, in answer to whether I wear vintage? You see, I would wear it all...if there were no bills to pay.

GF: Many thanks for a fascinating interview, Gillan. How can readers contact you to find out more and to buy?

GB: My main port of entry is my website www.retrovintagelove.co.uk that takes you to my eBay Shop. Retro Vintage Love on Twitter & Facebook both have links to the eBay Shop. And for all the latest: Instagram via Gillan Bell or RETROVINTAGELOVE_ (don’t forget that ( _ ) underscore at the end).

All other enquires please contact me at gillanbell@hotmail.com. Open 24/7

Unibu: Men's Underwear Made in Cumbria

If you're going to wear underwear (and I hope you are) then why not choose British-made? I recently came across a Cumbrian-based brand making in the UK: Unibu (link below). I've been wearing some of their products, which are well-made and comfortable. To find out more, I spoke to the business's founder, Shirley Crisp.

GF: Hello Shirley, please introduce yourself. 

SC: Hi, my name is Shirley Crisp, I live in Windermere, Cumbria which is a amazing place to live. We've just been made a World Heritage Site, so not the first place you may think of when thinking about underwear manufacturing. I'm married with three teenage children, one is off at uni. so I don't think he would like me calling him a child! I've lived here in The Lakes all my life, why would you move?

Shirley at Number 10 Downing Street

GF: Agreed; it's a beautiful part of the country. Your business is based there - tell us more about it.

SC: My parents have been in business as long as I can remember, so going into business came to me like learning to walk. I opened my own lingerie shop in Windermere in 2007 specialising in a vast size range. I was on one of my many buying trips and noticed hardly anything in the industry was made in Britain. As a passionate Made In Britain supporter, I started to look into the viability of producing a 100% British made underwear company. After many many months of looking into different suppliers Unibu was born. I wanted to make sure that everything I produced was actually Made In Britain! I know other companies still buy cloth and components from abroad, but I wanted to be different. If I was going to build a British brand I wanted it to be all British.

GF: So you started with women's clothing. How did you come to offer men's underwear?

SC: Yes; having a lingerie shop you need to cater for both ladies and gents. Speaking to hundreds of men, waiting patiently for their partners to try something on, I got good feedback about what men like and what to look for in gents' underwear. Like women, they too had a list of things they didn't like, or found uncomfortable. I'd never thought about men's underwear in this way before, so I knew when I launched my brand I wanted the gents had to be there too. When thinking of 'lingerie' we think lace, sexy, ladies, gifts but when you say 'men's underwear' you tend to think of something more practical - but why shouldn't it be exciting, bright, comfort, quality, stylish and British?!

GF: How and where are the men's products made?

SC: All of Unibu's products are Made In Britain. I keep it close to my chest the exact location, as it took months to find a manufacture who has the correct machinery, can produce a quality product and keep up with production -  no easy task. Who knows, though, maybe one day Unibu may have its own production line! The one thing I can guarantee is that all our products will always be Made In Britain.

GF: Where do you see the business going next?

SC: I want to keep building on what I'm already doing, keeping the very strong ethos of Unibu, its roots and core values. Customer service is key to me, I strive for excellence: only when our customers are happy do I feel I've done my job well. I'm always keen to find new retailers to help offer the brand around the country. I had a amazing visit last December to number 10 Downing Street after being listed as the Top 100 Small Business, so another visit would be nice!

GF: Many thanks, Shirley. Readers can click on Unibu for more information and to buy.

This is an unsponsored post.

Sustainable Style 15: Genevieve Sweeney British Made Designer Knitwear

I have an enduring love for knitwear. Its colours, practicality and potential for classic style make it ideal for post-covid smart casual wear. I've known of Genevieve Sweeney (link below) for some years and had assumed that I'd already featured her here on the blog,  but recently I was surprised to find that I hadn't. This feature puts right that omission. 

Genevieve has become one of the UK's leading knitwear designers, combining quality, colour, design and British manufacture to make products for both men and women. As you will read below, her early experiences of the wastefulness of the fashion industry have influenced the sustainable approach she takes to her business.

Genevieve recently kindly sent me a combed shaggy Shetland jumper to try - true preppy/Ivy League in style and gorgeous in colour (image below). 

Wearing a Genevieve Sweeney brushed wool sweater in azure blue

I asked Genevieve a few questions:

GF: Please introduce yourself and your brand - what is your background, how long has Genevieve Sweeney been going?

GS: Hi there, my name is Genevieve, I am the founder of my brand, Genevieve Sweeney, established in 2015. I have always been a lover of knitting, as a young child, I found it a very therapeutic and meditative hobby through difficult circumstances and continued to knit throughout my childhood taking vintage patterns and swapping the stitches with my own designs.

Once I learnt there was a BA Degree in Fashion Knitwear at Nottingham Trent University, my passion was no longer a secret and my career path was set. After a 4 year degree, specialising in men's knitwear, I graduated with First Class Honours and went on to work in the knitwear industry for both luxury and high street in New York, Switzerland and London. 

During my time working for global brands, I was shocked by the wastage that was standard in the fashion industry. Multiple prototypes being made for small changes, designs and whole collections developed then dropped at the last minute, express delivery of the smallest fabric or colour swatch on a next day service to the other side of the world, masses of stock being bought that would end up in outlets and sitting in warehouses for years to come. This always made me question the industry and wonder how could you repurpose old stock to make it "new".

"I came to a realisation that the UK knitwear industry was disappearing and incredibly talented knitters were left jobless with their skills being lost and not passed down through the generations"

Throughout my career I have always been fascinated by the artisan, the yarn spinner, the knitter, I was incredibly lucky to see these production methods across the globe and spend time in factories understanding and learning each process. When I moved back to London in 2014, I started to buy and restore old knitting machines for my own studio with plans to knit at the weekends. I would take my husband on "holidays" across the UK meeting yarn spinners, small factories and artisan knitters - this is when I came to a realisation that the UK knitwear industry was disappearing and incredibly talented knitters were left jobless with their skills being lost and not passed down through the generations.

It was heartbreaking to hear these stories and set the beginning of Genevieve Sweeney.

GF: What products do you sell?

GS: Luxury British Knitwear. I create seasonless knitwear that becomes a key part of a capsule wardrobe for both menswear and womenswear. My collection includes sweaters, cardigans, winter accessories and socks for all occasions including a GS Sock Subscription.

Genevieve Sweeney designer knitwear

GF: What are the themes and principles that underlie the brand, its products and their design?

GS: Genevieve Sweeney is all about blending old and new – traditional wools in striking, unexpected hues and contemporary geometric patterns. Designing truly forever pieces, effortlessly versatile with classic silhouettes and a unisex edge that we find ourselves reaching for time and again.

They are desirable, beautifully made pieces to be worn and enjoyed all year round. This effortless simplicity allows the exceptional quality of the yarn and unique colour combinations to take centre stage and champion the beauty of natural fibres and allow the wearers' personality to shine.

Every detail is considered, from the yarn spun in Scotland, British buttons turned in Oxfordshire and the combination of traditional and innovative knitting techniques.

"British manufacturing is the reason I started Genevieve Sweeney"

GF: British manufacture is obviously important to you. Why is this?

GS: With a desire to champion and celebrate the artisan, our heritage and our skill; British manufacturing is the reason I started GS.

When I first started researching manufacturing in the UK, it was incredibly hard to find manufacturers. Make it British hadn't launched and many factories could not be found on a Google search - I met the factories through word of mouth or through industry connections such as The Worshipful Company of Framework Knitters. The UK knitting industry has changed so much over the last 10 years and now it is growing rapidly which is incredibly exciting. However, we do have the issue that we are missing skilled artisans in many areas such as linking.

I believe it is so important to reinvest in the skills needed, creating a career and industry that young people will want to work in and build a culture and reputation of high-quality products that other countries and international markets will aspire to purchase.

There are many points that are hugely beneficial when manufacturing in the UK such as being able to regularly visit the factories and audit working conditions, paying a fair living wage to manufacturers and artisans, decreasing lead times and creating a lean manufacturing process that reduces waste of time and materials. The opportunity of being able to source fleece, spin the yarn and knit the product within 100 miles is very exciting - each process supports many small businesses and their communities.

GF: Please tell us more about the design and manufacturing process and the materials you use. Do you design the products personally? Where do you find inspiration for the designs? Do you use several knitwear manufacturers?

"My inspiration often comes from 1930s textiles and fashion, abstract art and the colour combinations I see on my daily walks"

GS: I design all my collections and work closely with the factories to develop the product and very involved with the technical fittings and grading of the garments. I am based in Hertfordshire and work with 7 factories across the UK, from the Scottish Borders, Derbyshire, London, Oxford and South West.

 
My inspiration often comes from 1930s textiles and fashion, abstract art and the colour combinations I see on my daily walks. Often these colours are too hard to capture on my phone whilst walking, but they seem to imprint my mind until the time comes and I am twisting lambswool colours together to create unique marl.

I focus on the details, that shows the beauty of the yarn in complex melanges, unexpected colour combinations in marls and down to the smallest button that I custom dye to complement the knitwear.

 
Each yarn I design with is certified whether RWS or regenerative wool, organic cottons GOTS even the sparkly yarn for my socks has FSC certification from responsibly sourced wood. The British made buttons use only natural and biodegradable materials. Leftover yarn from production is turned into socks or slippers using a traditional intarsia technique so nothing is wasted.

Genevieve Sweeney knitwear

GF: How do you see the brand and its products developing over the next few months and years?

GS: My 2022 plans are to grow my menswear collection and to expand internationally to the USA and Australia.

 
I have been designing with more regenerative yarns and I am currently developing a couple of new products within the accessory collection using British and recycled wool which I hope to be ready for AW22.

GF: Where do you see Genevieve Sweeney in ten years?

GS: Within ten years I hope to have micro knitting set up in my studio and be able to train the next generation in manufacturing, finishing and milling.

To make a difference in the knitwear industry, to help cheerlead and champion sustainable and regenerative knitwear that will be worn and cherished for years to come.

There is so much I want to do within yarn development, growing the collection whilst supporting and working alongside UK manufacturers and collaborating with like-minded brands in different fields.

GF: Many thanks, Genevieve, we will follow the future of your brand with great interest.  

See Genevieve Sweeney for more information and to buy

Read more in my Sustainable Style series

Genevieve Sweeney

Where to Buy Gifts for Father's Day

Father's Day is on Sunday 16th June 2019. As someone looking forward to becoming a grandfather for the first time I've been through a gratifying number of Father's Days. Gifts can be hard to choose for the man who has everything so I thought that, rather than suggesting specific gifts, I'd list some websites where you'll find something suitable at a range of prices from around £40 to several hundred pounds. 

Some of the brands mentioned below (from top left): Laird Hatters, DR Harris, Hamilton and Hare, Billy Tannery, Penelope Cream, Sartorialab, Geoff Stocker, Budd Shirtmakers

Many of the products are British-made and I've included a few small brands for you to support:

Pocket squares and ties from Penelope Cream and Geoff Stocker.

Leather bags Bennett Winch and Billy Tannery.

Styling: give him a personal styling voucher from the outstanding Sarah Gilfillan of Sartorialab.

Grooming: some of my favourite grooming products and fragrances come from D.R. Harris.

A watch: The Rake's online store contains a large selection of clothes, grooming products and more. An excellent buy is the Baltic HMS watch; outstanding value at £370 for an automatic movement and a stunning design.

Monogrammed underwear and robes from Hamilton and Hare who offer a monogramming service at their 39 Chiltern Street flagship store in London.

British-made clothing from small manufacturers: Emily & Khadi, Kestin Hare, Flax London, Pajotten and Yarmouth Oilskins are just a few of the many smaller menswear brands who focus on British manufacture.

Hats from Laird Hatters - maybe a panama for the summer months?

A shirt from Budd Shirtmakers.

Leather belts, watch straps, wallets and other small products: Ettinger, Equus Leather, Tim Hardy.

Finally, if you're still looking, you'll definitely find something here - Outdoor supplies, from bags to wallets to knives, all beautifully and ethically made in the UK and elsewhere from The Level Collective.

Evelyn Waugh: The Comfort and Style of a Tweed Suit

The Italian word 'sprezzatura' perfectly describes that rather dishevelled but Oh-so-English look of a well-used tweed suit, as worn with such aplomb by so many men in the early half of the twentieth century. I came across the image below of author Evelyn Waugh which perfectly illustrates that casual, crumpled and unselfconscious English style. How can we emulate that comfortable tweedy appearance today?

Evelyn Waugh by Mark Gerson 1963

Waugh's suit appears to be a heavyweight tweed (they would normally have been fairly robust cloth in those days) in a shepherd check. As is normal with a well-worn-in tweed, it looks as comfortable as an old jumper and pair of jeans might be to us today. Men were used to wearing tailoring in those days, and Waugh would have thought nothing of throwing himself down on the sofa for a post-prandial nap fully clothed in his three-piece.

It's this slightly disordered but so natural and unforced look, the result of wearing a suit day in and day out, that's often admired in the English (or more strictly British) man of that era. Sadly today's man has largely abandoned tailoring in favour of casual wear or that mix of leisure and sports wear, 'athleisure', that, while possibly easy to wear, lacks elegance or style. 

The art of wearing tailoring for relaxation has been lost and today it's felt that sloppy and shapeless is necessary for easy wear. Evelyn Waugh shows us that this is a mistaken view. Tweed is a casual cloth, designed originally for easy movement outdoors, retaining its shape and protecting the wearer from the elements. A good quality cloth is soft, robust and lightweight, moulding readily to the body. Its forgiving nature means that it doesn't need to be treated with care, like a flannel business suit. 

Worn well the tweed suit combines effortless style with comfort. Let's buy more tweed suits (I suggest some sources of new and vintage tweeds below).

Waugh wears a houndstooth check tweed suit with a jaunty buttonhole

Vintage Tweed Suits

If you like your tweed suit traditional and heavy duty, try a vintage example. I bought a Harris tweed suit that must have been over 60 years old some years ago. The tweed was very heavy and you will find this is common with older suits. After some alterations it fitted well, but was too warm for indoor wear. 

If you buy online check with the seller for moth holes, torn linings and a general smell of damp, age or mothballs. And of course you should ask for detailed measurements, comparing them to a suit that you know fits. Aim for minimal alterations as too great a change to size isn't always successful.

Here are a few links - you may find more:

Hornets Vintage

Savvy Row

Fogey Unlimited

New Tweed Suits

Any tailor will be delighted to make a tweed suit - whether made to measure of fully bespoke will depend on your budget and preferences. Ready to wear (RTW) is the affordable option and most stores and tailors will alter a suit to fit as well as possible. 

Here are a few suggested links - there are many more out there and I've confined myself to a few stores and tailors I know or have experience of:

Dege & Skinner for the full bespoke Savile Row experience and a suit that will fit to perfection.

Susannah Hall - British made suits.

Cordings of Piccadilly - their affordable RTW suits are made of the best tweed. They fit me perfectly, but they will alter for you if needed.

Campbell's of Beauly - in Scotland near Inverness: a tweed heaven offering RTW and bespoke tailoring. They specialise in estate tweeds. This is a topic on its own, but many Scottish sporting estates have since Victorian times developed their own tweeds, the colours and patterns reflecting the colours of their local rock, heather, water and skies.

Men's Coats for Spring: a GreyFox/SartoriaLab photo-shoot

As winter retreats and the Sun warms the Earth, we find our winter coats a little heavy and uncomfortable. I decided, with help from Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab, to look for lighter coats that can be layered according to temperature.

We wanted to try a variety of styles and approached a few brands offering an interesting selection in their SS15 collections. I was pleased at least half of them are British-made, even though we hadn't selected them on that basis.

This is the first of a series of photo-shoots in which Sarah and I show menswear being worn by older men (initially me, volunteers welcome). Most brands use very young models, discouraging the older man from trying out the products on offer.

I've tried coats I wouldn't normally wear and have been surprised by most of them. I hope that our approach will encourage you to experiment and try some of the clothes we show. If our efforts both encourage brands to use older models in their campaigns and also influence you to try new styles, I'll be very happy.

Sarah and I comment on each jacket below, giving a link to the supplier's website (or to the item itself) so that you can browse and buy. We've only had cursory glances at the suppliers' descriptions so that we can give you our own views on the coats.

I'm very grateful to photographer Nick Maroudias for the superb images and for his support for an inexperienced model. Without his involvement, this project would have been impossible. Thanks also to Jean-Pierre Agius whose help and innovative styling suggestions were invaluable.

REALM & EMPIRE:

REALM AND EMPIRE COTTON PEACOAT £225.00 ^

Sarah: I wasn't sure about this jacket when I first saw images of it, but it really grew on me when I could see and handle it. I love pea-coats and the tan cotton looks fresh for spring. It goes very well with navy and white so, if you're like a lot of men with a large percentage of blue in your wardrobe, it'll make a good choice. We decided to give it a smarter feel with a chambray shirt and floral tie. 

David: I liked the colour and fit of this coat from an interesting and growing brand. Like most coats tried here, it follows the modern trend for short-fit. With well-designed and made details (like the closure to the collar) this is comfortable and well-made. It will suit most ages and body-types, making it an ideal spring/summer jacket.

Click here 

BARBOUR:

BARBOUR INTERNATIONAL - SIMONSIDE WAX JACKET £249 ^ 

Sarah: I often shop for classic, functional jackets with clients and Barbour offer a great selection. The biker style of this one gives it a "cool" Steve McQueen edge. Wear it done up and belted or open with the belt tied at the back.

David: My initial thought was that this may be too motor bike for daily wear, but I was wrong. I liked the fit, practicality and classic style of this jacket. Versatile enough for town and country wear and can be layered as the weather cools. A cool classic, but I'd like to see fewer logos; Barbour is a brand that shouldn't need to shout that loudly.

Click here

JOHN LEWIS:

JOHN LEWIS BOMBER KIN JACKET £89.00 ^

Sarah: Generally I consider bomber jackets to be a bit of a younger style, but when David tried this on I thought it looked good. Initially we tried to style it with a polo shirt for a summery feel, but it gave it too much of a mod / skinhead style, so we went back to a simple roll neck. A fine knit crew neck sweater layered over a t-shirt would also look good. 

David: My thoughts are the same as Sarah's. Care needs to be taken when wearing a bomber, but I was surprised how much I liked it. Reasonably-priced and stylishly simple, it has a mesh lining and the quality belies its price. One for you to try for yourself.

Click here

GLOVERALL:



GLOVERALL DUFFLE COAT £199.00 ^

Sarah: This was the surprise of the day which ended up being my favourite. Duffle coats aren't everyone's style, but it really suited David. It's a great spring-like take on the classic wool duffle, in a lightweight showerproof fabric. It's not the first thing I'd think of buying with a client but, having seen this on, I'll definitely be more open to it in future. 

David: Again, my thoughts are the same. This was a very last-minute addition to the shoot. I requested it urgently as it offered something quite different to the other coats. I wasn't hopeful that I'd like it, but it ended up as a surprise favourite of the day, and it's British-made. Made from an Italian coated cotton, it's shower-proof and light. An interesting, practical and stylish version of the classic duffle coat. I've seen some interesting products coming from Gloverall and look forward to covering them again.

Click here

OLIVER SWEENEY:

OLIVER SWEENEY BOXSTEAD CHARCOAL COTTON JACKET £395 ^

Sarah: I love the elegant shape of this mac-style jacket/coat, which would work equally well on larger guys because of the simple unfussy style. It looks great with jeans, but would also be perfect over a suit. Although the fabric is cotton it looks a bit more tweedy. I'd be more inclined to buy this with clients in autumn rather than spring. 

David: Oliver Sweeney offer an interesting range of menswear. This coat comes in many guises (including as a mac) and colours. At first glance it's wool, but it's made of a cotton tweedy fabric, ideal for milder spring and summer weather. With a clean design, nice details and (this was a pleasant surprise) a Made in England label, this was another favourite - probably for town rather than country wear. 

Click here 

BARBOUR X WHITE MOUNTAINEERING:

BARBOUR x WHITE MOUNTANEERING WAX LAPEL JACKET £399.00 ^

Sarah: An interesting and detailed jacket which fills the gap between a blazer and a casual jacket. Its the sort of thing I might buy with a client if they didn't have the need for a smart navy blazer, and wanted something a bit different.

David: I liked its cut and practicality, but was less sure about the details, in particular the numerous pockets and the perforations on large parts of the jacket. This is a collaboration with the Japanese White Mountaineering, so it's aimed at the younger man. One for you to try and make up your own mind about.

Click here 

PRIVATE WHITE V.C.:

PRIVATE WHITE V.C. ALCANTARA SHAWL BOMBER £850.00 ^ 

Sarah: I like the shape, collar and detailing of this jacket. It's got quite a retro seventies style to it, so I think on an older guy it needs to be styled with modern pieces to keep it looking contemporary. 

David: A British-made jacket (in Manchester) from the successful Private White V.C. Although I've been to their factory and supported them on the blog for some time, this was the first time I had had the opportunity to try on one of their products. The faux-suede looks and feels like the real thing, lacking only the supreme flexibility of the best suede. I liked the quality and superb detailing, including the characteristic copper P.W.V.C. zip and well-shaped shawl collar. Different and stylish.

Click here 

JOHN LEWIS:

JOHN LEWIS COTTON FIELD JACKET £89.00 ^

Sarah: An easy to wear versatile cotton field jacket, which you can layer up with chunky knitwear whilst it's still cold, but will work equally well with lightweight trousers and t-shirts for cool summer evenings. It's a flattering shape for very slim guys as the epaulettes and pockets all have a broadening effect. 

David: Another good value jacket from John Lewis, this reminded me very much of a US Army surplus combat jacket I wore while a student in the seventies. I liked the back detail and well-made nature of this jacket. Being who they are, John Lewis don't feel the need to undermine the simple design with logos and other geegaws; hooray.

Click here

Here are links to some of the other clothes that I'm wearing:

Brogues - Loake

English-made jeans - Quantock

Shirts - Tripl Stitched

Tie - Dancys

Socks - Marwood mohair

Watch - vintage Tudor Submariner

NOTE: Our next shoot, in March/April, will explore men's summer blazers, suits and jackets. Please e-mail me or Sarah if you would like your products to be considered for inclusion.

If you, as a blog reader, have any suggestions for items you would like to see featured in these shoots, please get in touch.