The glorious return of the smoking jacket

I've been to two menswear two shops this week and both report the comeback of the smoking jacket for younger, middle-aged and older men of style. Once worn by fashionable Victorian and Edwardian gentleman on retiring from the dinner table for a game of billiards or a smoke and a brandy (or a good lounge, see Oscar Wilde below), this often colourful and always comfortable coat is being worn again - finding use either as a dinner jacket, something to go clubbing in, or simply to stylishly slouch in at home.

Both Ede & Ravenscroft and Oliver Brown, the shops I visited, stock them. Both sell smoking jackets off the peg and bespoke. I liked the brighter coloured velvets, but a deep midnight blue (at Oliver Brown) looks stunning. A plain satin collar makes the coat more of a dinner jacket in style, while elaborate frogging (braiding) is also available for the more extrovert. See also smoking hats below.

Smoking jacket, Ede & Ravenscroft

This bright red jacket is a copy of one made bespoke for a client of Ede & Ravenscroft - they liked it so much they made a copy for their Savile Row shop. Increased sales are reported by both Ede & Ravenscroft and Oliver Brown.

Oliver Brown

Oliver Brown

I remember my grandfather (who called himself one of the last Victorians; he was born in 1901) owned a round, tasselled smoking hat. These round velvet creations, often elaborately embroidered, came in as wide a range of colours, possibly to match the owner's smoking jacket. Vintage examples can still be found, or try eBay for modern versions.