Evelyn Waugh: The Comfort and Style of a Tweed Suit

The Italian word 'sprezzatura' perfectly describes that rather dishevelled but Oh-so-English look of a well-used tweed suit, as worn with such aplomb by so many men in the early half of the twentieth century. I came across the image below of author Evelyn Waugh which perfectly illustrates that casual, crumpled and unselfconscious English style. How can we emulate that comfortable tweedy appearance today?

Evelyn Waugh by Mark Gerson 1963

Waugh's suit appears to be a heavyweight tweed (they would normally have been fairly robust cloth in those days) in a shepherd check. As is normal with a well-worn-in tweed, it looks as comfortable as an old jumper and pair of jeans might be to us today. Men were used to wearing tailoring in those days, and Waugh would have thought nothing of throwing himself down on the sofa for a post-prandial nap fully clothed in his three-piece.

It's this slightly disordered but so natural and unforced look, the result of wearing a suit day in and day out, that's often admired in the English (or more strictly British) man of that era. Sadly today's man has largely abandoned tailoring in favour of casual wear or that mix of leisure and sports wear, 'athleisure', that, while possibly easy to wear, lacks elegance or style. 

The art of wearing tailoring for relaxation has been lost and today it's felt that sloppy and shapeless is necessary for easy wear. Evelyn Waugh shows us that this is a mistaken view. Tweed is a casual cloth, designed originally for easy movement outdoors, retaining its shape and protecting the wearer from the elements. A good quality cloth is soft, robust and lightweight, moulding readily to the body. Its forgiving nature means that it doesn't need to be treated with care, like a flannel business suit. 

Worn well the tweed suit combines effortless style with comfort. Let's buy more tweed suits (I suggest some sources of new and vintage tweeds below).

Waugh wears a houndstooth check tweed suit with a jaunty buttonhole

Vintage Tweed Suits

If you like your tweed suit traditional and heavy duty, try a vintage example. I bought a Harris tweed suit that must have been over 60 years old some years ago. The tweed was very heavy and you will find this is common with older suits. After some alterations it fitted well, but was too warm for indoor wear. 

If you buy online check with the seller for moth holes, torn linings and a general smell of damp, age or mothballs. And of course you should ask for detailed measurements, comparing them to a suit that you know fits. Aim for minimal alterations as too great a change to size isn't always successful.

Here are a few links - you may find more:

Hornets Vintage

Savvy Row

Fogey Unlimited

New Tweed Suits

Any tailor will be delighted to make a tweed suit - whether made to measure of fully bespoke will depend on your budget and preferences. Ready to wear (RTW) is the affordable option and most stores and tailors will alter a suit to fit as well as possible. 

Here are a few suggested links - there are many more out there and I've confined myself to a few stores and tailors I know or have experience of:

Dege & Skinner for the full bespoke Savile Row experience and a suit that will fit to perfection.

Susannah Hall - British made suits.

Cordings of Piccadilly - their affordable RTW suits are made of the best tweed. They fit me perfectly, but they will alter for you if needed.

Campbell's of Beauly - in Scotland near Inverness: a tweed heaven offering RTW and bespoke tailoring. They specialise in estate tweeds. This is a topic on its own, but many Scottish sporting estates have since Victorian times developed their own tweeds, the colours and patterns reflecting the colours of their local rock, heather, water and skies.

David Hockney's Yellow Crocs And Why is Menswear So Boring?

The recent sight of David Hockney wearing yellow Crocs at an Order of Merit meeting at Buckingham Palace caused a stir in the Press. Crocs - in front of His Majesty! 

As a man of style, King Charles took it all in his stride of course, commenting, "Your yellow galoshes! Beautifully chosen." But how significant is it that such a striking choice of footwear should make such an impact? Is it because many of us are now wearing menswear that is dingy, dark and dull; that we aren't used to seeing displays of sartorial sassiness in men? 

How often does what we wear reflect our personalities rather than simply an acquired look or trend?

Light in the gloom.
Hockney's Crocs (and the women) light up a monochrome OM luncheon meeting.

The above image of those attending the Order of Merit luncheon shows how men's formal business wear is traditionally dark: black or dark blues predominate. This is nothing new. Since the early nineteenth century most men have avoided colour and bright pattern, a trend marked by Beau Brummell's choice of plain and sober clothing. Victorian men adopted darker hues to emphasise their serious, god-fearing and industrious approach to life.

This continued into the twentieth century and, while the sixties signalled as temporary shift to colour and pattern for the young in particular, we seem to have returned to a period when both young and old prefer darker clothing, whether for formal or casual wear. Look at any high street, where drab hoodies, quilted coats and jeans predominate. Maybe this is a reflection of the times. Do we feel that here isn't much to be cheerful about in the world at the moment and does this reflect in our sober choices of clothing? 

Hockney's outfit at the OM luncheon is a welcome change. He has chosen to dress in a way that is comfortable and still reflects his character and interests. We may not all approve of the yellow Crocs, but the lighter coloured check tweed suit is a style that we could all adopt. Try patterned tweeds, bright knitwear, trousers in brighter hues, bold striped shirts and pastel contrasting socks to move away from this monochrome madness.

Marwood: Quality and Style

It's been a while since I caught up with Marwood, whose beautifully made and designed products combine style with quality. 

I asked Becky French, founder of Marwood, to bring us up to date:

DE: I've been following Marwood for many years now and indeed still wear a pair of your mohair socks that have outlived all my other socks by a factor of at least 10. Can you tell us something about Marwood and its products?

Becky: Thanks David. Yes Marwood’s mohair socks are very popular and it’s a shame to have run out of stock currently but I am hoping to replenish in the coming months and hold a sample sale of odd sizes for newsletter readers around Christmas. They are so soft, comfortable and legitimately last the test of time. I have had many emails and messages from people each year telling me how happy they are that it’s cold enough to wear the chunky ones again. It’s a good feeling to get such positive feedback.

I love to offer products that tick all the boxes. The aim is to create beautiful pieces in your wardrobe that you can’t quite find anywhere else… that is the main principle behind Marwood. At the moment a lot of the ties are one-of-a-kind and we are exploring made-to-order for next year. This adds to the uniqueness of our offering and hopefully shows we have a thoughtful approach to consumption.

DE: I've long admired your beautiful men's ties and see that you also sell homewear and lace - is there a common element to these different products?

Becky: Graphic geometric patterns, a monochrome palette (set amongst a rich array of colour), earthy textures and all made by traditional manufacturers in the UK. Our tagline is “outfitting life’s occasions” which gives me an open brief when it comes to designing products. We have an aesthetic and practical approach to a British lifestyle and all its occasions. We can cater to a black tie event or a walk in the hills in a meaningful way. We are looking to find the little corners of a person’s lifestyle that need some attention, hence why we ventured in to homeware as well. We are exploring an offering of textile art next.

DE: Is British manufacture and design important to you?

Becky: It has always been important for Marwood because we have made our products close to home with suitable makers that are the best at what they do. However I wouldn’t ever say we should only ever produce here. I am all about finding the best manufacturers for the job… keep products authentic to a manufacturer’s skillset and speciality. These relationships with suppliers are the backbone of any brand, so I believe in maintaining good, positive connections with our makers.

DE: You say that. 'We champion the idea of owning less and caring more about selective investment pieces'. How does this translate into the pieces that you sell?

Becky: I see our products as the opposite of fast fashion. They are thoughtfully designed and produced. The price point means they are an investment choice for most people, but I then think the lifespan of the products vouches for themselves. Marwood products have integrity.

DE: What is the future of Marwood?

Becky: I wish I could answer this but I just don’t know. It was such a fast growing, exciting business in its early years (since 2010), but then when wholesale business devolved, and I joined Turnbull & Asser five years ago, it became a side project. It is getting nurtured more now that I am freelancing for other brands and have more flexibility. I am enjoying the shoots (like this one with Rick Pushinsky and David Nolan) to bring some life back to the brand and the website and working with a small team of collaborators. At the end of the day, I love curating ranges, designing and making well-crafted pieces and connecting with people through imagery and art… so if Marwood continues to let me do this, then it will grow along with me. Let’s see what’s to come.

DE: Many thanks, Becky, for telling us about Marwood.

www.marwood.life

Bell & Ross BR V2-92: A Practical and Versatile Watch

I always enjoy trying a watch brand I haven't worn before. I've known and admired Bell & Ross's timepieces from afar so was pleased to borrow one of their Vintage Collection to try for a few days.  

The Bell & Ross V2-92 Aéronavale watch

Bell & Ross were founded in 1992 to make robust watches for professionals such as pilots, divers and military personnel. They became known for their square watches, based on aeroplane cockpit instrumentation. They have supplied the French Air Force and motor racing teams as well, of course, as the man and women in the street. They make their watches in Switzerland.

I tried the Bell & Ross BR V2-92 Aéronavale, a 41mm automatic mechanical watch with a beautiful deep blue sunray dial, a bi-directional rotating bezel, 100m water resistance, screw-down crown and transparent case back giving a view of the movement. It has a distinct vintage pilot's watch vibe and has a real presence on the wrist, especially on the matching deep blue calfskin strap (it also comes of a steel bracelet).

The clean looks give the watch a contemporary feel and, while the Sellita-based movement has no claims to being chronograph tested, it kept extremely good time for the few days I wore it. At £2700 on the leather strap, this is a fair-priced watch which will fit well into the stylish person's wardrobe as it goes well with jeans and knitwear or a suit and tie. An all-round practical and yet very handsome watch.

See Bell & Ross.

Charles William Alexander: Well-Engineered Pyjamas

Charles William Alexander is a new British brand making pyjamas differently. Founder Alex Massey founded the business after a background in engineering and construction, with a particular interest in classic Land Rovers. Using tools used in the automotive industry he designs the pyjamas so that they can be cut with minimal waste. 

Charles William Alexander Pyjamas

Interested in sustainable style and with a dislike of fashion's waste, Charles told me more about his thinking behind the business:

“The concept of CW Alexander came along around early 2021. I saw something that hadn’t been done before; this was very much engineer turned tailor.

From a young age I regularly helped my Mum sewing with many projects; I noticed the huge amount of waste in the fast fashion industry with the UK average of clothes only being worn twice before they were discarded.

CW Alexander Pyjamas have their own identities with a QR code tracking the manufacture date, place and style. One benefit of slow fashion pyjamas & underwear is they tend to be worn longer and not viewed as an "Accessory" that can only be seen once and is no longer useable. Choosing to give each set of pyjamas an identity gives the owner a connection to their purchase and a sense of ownership of something special, something unique, something that can be passed down.”

The pyjamas come in bright seventies colours with contrasting piping, such as the red I wear here. Made in the USA (where, as Charles points out, the seamstresses are paid fair wages) they are unisex, stylish and comfortable. A donation from each sale goes to Alzheimer's Research UK.

For more information and to buy, go to Charles William Alexander

From Formal to Casual With Denim & Chambray Shirts

The suit has had a hard time over the two or three years, with many forecasting its demise. My own view (link below) is that the suit survives, albeit in a modified form and here setbacks provide opportunities. Select the right shirt and you can change a suit's look to make it more versatile, as I show  you here.

I'm grateful to Thomas Pink shirts for sending me a denim and a chambray shirt to illustrate this feature. 

Thomas Pink denim shirt

Same suit; different looks. Chambray and denim shirts from Thomas Pink

While the formal business suit is undoubtedly on the wane, suits with a more comfortable cut and cloth can be worn either formally or casually, as the opportunity demands. Take a tweed or Prince of Wales check suit: worn with smart oxford shoes, a crisp white shirt and madder silk tie it can be worn to a formal or work meeting, but wear it with loafers, a denim or chambray shirt, cravat or neckerchief and it becomes a comfortable option for a  more casual look.

Denim and chambray reduce the formality of tailoring because they are both cloths with roots in workwear. Such shirts look more comfortable than a crisp business shirt made from a fine poplin, oxford or Sea Island cotton. As they age they soften and take on a patina of wear at the collar, seams and folds. A slight fraying at the edges adds to this comfortable look and is a godsend for those aiming to exude an air of sprezzatura*. 

Denim or Chambray?

Denim and chambray are woven from two different coloured yarns, usually indigo and white, giving them their characteristic slubby appearance. They are woven differently: denim tends to be thicker than chambray and has a different appearance on each side of the cloth, while chambray looks the same each side. Denim tends to fade much more markedly and this makes it the more casual looking of the two, particularly with its association with workwear since the nineteenth century and earlier. Due to its lighter weight and breathability, chambray is better for warmer weather.

*Sprezzatura: 'Studied carelessness'.

The shirts used in this post were from Thomas Pink

The Barn by Chrono24: A Pre-Owned Watch Partnership

Buying secondhand and vintage watches can be daunting. Most dealers offer a short warranty, but very few have inspected and, where necessary, serviced and repaired a watch before sale. The watch seller that does is The Barn by Chrono24 (previously Xupes) where watches can be confidently bought and sold online. 

The Barn by Chrono24 in Bishop's Stortford north of London

The Barn by Chrono24

Most importantly for watch buyers, the business will work alongside The Watch Atelier where watches are serviced and repaired by award-winning watchmakers.

I was shown around the grade II listed barn which houses The Barn by Chrono24 and met founder Joe McKenzie who sees the Barn as providing a comfortable experience to customers and staff alike in Soho House Group furnished surroundings just outside London. Here watches can be examined in comfort before purchase (or taken to be sold) and the impressive workshop can be seen through large viewing windows.

Meeting Richard West and Megan Young, Watchmakers of the Year

I was introduced to watchmakers Megan Young and Richard West, WatchPro Watchmakers of the Year 2022. They run an impressively equipped state-of-the-art workshop in which timepieces are checked for sale and any necessary repairs and restoration undertaken. The Watch Atelier offers these services to all - you don't have to have bought your watch through Chrono24 - and they offer a 24 month warranty on all such work.

I was very impressed by what I saw and heard of The Barn by Chrono24 and, importantly, would feel totally confident in buying (or selling) a watch, or having one serviced or repaired there.

The Barn by Chrono24

The Watch Atelier

If Xupes and The Barn look familiar to you, you may have seen it featured on Channel 4's Second-Hand For Fifty Grand which looks at the market for pre-owned luxury items such as watches and handbags.

This is an unsponsored feature.

Peper Harow Socks: A Seasonal Gift Offer To Readers (Sponsored)

British sock makers, Peper Harow,  are offering various gift options for the festive season, birthdays and more. I love receiving socks as gifts, one can never have enough pairs. I often spend an unreasonable time selecting which socks to wear and the greater the choice the longer but more fun is the selection process - so don't believe the old tale that socks make a boring present!

The Peper Harow boxed gift set I selected for Christmas

I chose the socks gift box set shown above because it has a suitably festive colour scheme, with lots of Santa red and festive patterns, but plenty of other designs are available. 

To further spice up their boxes, Peper Harow also offer a selection of gifts in partnership with Hawkins & Brimble who market British-made grooming items, such as shaving and facial products and fragrances, which can be added to the socks. 

A further Create Your Own gift selection allows you to include gifts such as tea or coffee and treats like chocolates, popcorn and more.

Some gift sets available from Peper Harow in partnership with Hawkins & Brimble

For more information about Peper Harow's English-made socks and to order socks and gift sets, go to:

Peper Harow Luxury Gifts for Him

Peper Harow Create Your Own Gifts

For those who wish to buy socks only (not gift sets and boxes) you can take advantage of a buy three get one free discount code: quote GREYFOX3 at checkout.

NOTE: This is a paid collaboration with British sockmakers Peper Harow.

Heron's Ghyll: British-Made Tailored Elegance

Heron's Ghyll was founded in 2020 by Mark Francis in London and it takes that city's tailoring heritage and adds a romantic, cosmopolitan touch to produce clothes that don't fit any particular mould, but can be adapted to the needs and wishes of the wearer.

Heron's Ghyll: left blue & white striped linen. I wear (right) check lambswool Nehru

Mark sent me a sample Nehru jacket to try. I could wear it as streetwear with jeans, but decided that, with party season coming up, I'd style it for the usual (and rather meaningless) 'smart casual' or 'cocktail' or similar dress codes that accompany seasonal invitations.

The Purple Check Extrafine Lambswool Blazer that I borrowed is beautifully made, part-lined with silk and adorned with gold buttons. Worn with dress trousers, patent slippers and a while silk shirt it would pass muster for a black tie do. Paired with a lightweight roll neck sweater, jeans and suede loafers you could lunch with a friend at your local hostelry.

I wear Heron's Ghyll check lambswool Nehru jacket

Other jackets (some with matching trousers) come in wool, linen, denim, cotton, cashmere cotton or seersucker as Glen check, stripes, polka dots and plain fabrics, so there is something for every occasion and taste. They are mostly made to order, with delivery times around 4 weeks.

For more information about Heron's Ghyll, their jackets, matching trousers and accessories go to Heron's Ghyll.

Tusting x Grey Fox - A Backpack Collaboration

I'm delighted to announce another collaboration with one of my favourite British brands. Tusting has been a family-run leather business since 1875 and many of their craftsmen and women come from families who've worked for Tusting for generations. I've worked with them to design a stylish and practical tweed and leather backpack which is made to order. 

Here are a few words about the collaboration:

"As a lover of everything British-made, it’s a real privilege to have worked with Tusting on this backpack. It started some time ago when I visited their factory and spotted a gorgeous heavy tweed in their archive. Made by Lovat Mill of Scotland it was designed as an extremely robust tweed whose high twist yarn construction provides natural water resistance, making it perfect for its original intended use for outdoor and country activities. 

After some discussion, and a couple of sample iterations, a final prototype backpack was made, and I have used it extensively for over two years to ensure that every detail of practicality, construction, comfort and robustness was just right. 

We used Tusting’s Crazy Horse leather which I was familiar with as I’ve been using a Tusting Clipper bag for many years and I loved the way it has gained a beautiful patina of use but shown no signs of wear. 

I selected a bright Guards’ tunic red for the lining both to provide a cheerful contrast to the tweed and also to acknowledge family links to the five Foot Guards regiments of the Household Division. 

I’m enormously proud of this product featuring the best of British manufacture. Packed with useful pockets and compartments, this is a well-tried and comfortable backpack which I’ve used for everything from business trips to country dog walks and which has stood up perfectly to several years of use."

We've worked hard to make a practical, robust, comfortable and stylishly retro backpack. After using the prototype for over two years I'm confident that the Tusting x Grey Fox backpack is all these things. For more information and to order, see Tusting's website

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Note: This is a collaboration between Tusting and Grey Fox Blog - see also on Instagram @greyfoxstyle

Grenson Shoes: British Made

Grenson are a British brand who've been making shoes in Northamptonshire since 1866 and now also make overseas to ensure a wider choice to customers. I've not tried their products properly before and they kindly loaned me two pairs of shoes for this feature.

Wearing Grenson Archie triple-welted grain leather brogues

Grenson Archie (left) and Winchester (right)

I was keen to try the triple-welted Archie brogue and the black Winchester derbies, both made in Grenson's Northamptonshire factory. The Archie is an archetypal rubber-soled grain leather country shoe, robust and chunky and ideal for casual wear. The Winchester is a versatile and elegant leather-soled black calf shoe from the Classics Collection. While I'd wear it for business or, highly polished, with formal wear such as black tie the Winchester would also look good with denims or cords.

Styling the Grenson Archie brogue and Winchester derbies

Both shoes are beautifully made from excellent quality leather. I was only able to try them on carpet, but have little doubt that they are comfortable to wear. The two styles of shoe would make the perfect capsule footwear collection for almost every occasion. Their Goodyear welted construction means that they can be repaired multiple times, making them an good investment for the future if properly looked after with shoe trees and regular waxing and polishing.

Great shoes which I'll be reluctant to return. For more information and to buy, see Grenson Shoes.

Links:

Grenson Archie

Grenson Winchester

Colhays: British Made Knitwear

Colhays is a relative newcomer to the British-made knitwear scene. This is a crowded market and founder Ronnie Chiu has chosen to get round this potential problem by aiming unapologetically at the luxury end of the market. Furthermore his designs take a fresh look at shapes, colours and textures so that everything is very wearable and yet unique in feel or shape.

Ronnie Chiu founder of Colhays

I prefer not to write about products I haven't seen, handled and worn fairly extensively, but I was able to try these products at a press day. Knitwear is one of this things that has to be touched and tried to really appreciate and these are sumptuous in feel, quality and weight. 

Ronnie Chiu based his approach on two Scottish-made sweaters that his father bought with his first paycheck in the 1970s and still in existence. He determined to make quality and longevity a central part of Colhays - knitwear that could be passed through the generations.

Ronnie says:

“ My passion is in bringing back heirloom quality clothes that stand the test of time, the kind my grandfather and father would have worn and passed onto me, but making them relevant to people today by updating the styles and fits. My hope is to restore the relationship that once existed between craftsman and wearer by bringing to your attention the quality, care and expertise that have gone into every stage of manufacture - from the fibres used, to the skills of those who have created your garment; what makes the garment last so long. I think that you deserve to know, and the makers’ stories deserve to be heard.” 

From what I've seen of Colhays' products (links below), Ronnie has achieved what he set out to do and these are clothes that would be appreciated by anyone looking for British-made lasting high quality knitwear.

Trying Colhays' impressive knitwear products 

For more information go to Colhays website.

Book Review: The Rebel's Wardrobe pub. by Gestalten

To while away the long winter nights, I recommend reading The Rebel’s Wardrobe: The Untold Story of Menswear’s Renegade Past (published by Gestalten 2022). The book explores many items of menswear, their origins and the men, famous and not, who wore them before they became popular daily wear.

From the white t-shirt and workwear through flying jackets to the Aran sweater, safari jackets, denim and trench coats, hats and footwear, it takes a fascinating look at selected items of mens's clothing that started out as radical signs of rebellion only to become mainstream. 

The book is informative rather than merely descriptive and covers men and their clothing from both sides of the Atlantic. It's well presented with a good balance of images to text. There are one or two very minor errors: an image of a father showing his son how to lace up 'work boots' is actually lacing and blancoing canvas cricket boots and I haven't seen the spelling 'mack' for a 'mac' or mackintosh coat before - but these are very rare and don't take away from a readable and interesting look at menswear's heritage.

Highly recommended for any enthusiast of menswear and its history and context. For more information and to buy the book go to Gestalten.

All images: Illustration Florian Bayer, The Rebel's Wardrobe, gestalten 2022

Sustainable Style: Neem London Pop Up Store in London

Neem London are displaying their sustainability credentials at a pop up store in Piccadilly Arcade London until Christmas, giving us the opportunity to see their wares at first hand.

I've talked a lot about Neem here on the blog. In a menswear world corrupted by greenwashing, inaccurate claims about ethical and environmental credentials, Neem is a brand that does its best to minimise the adverse aspects of clothing production. 

Wearing a Neem London Recycled Italian Sky Dobby Popover Shirt

Neem uses recycled materials, regenerative cotton and ethically produced merino wool in a range of comfortable and stylish shirts and accessories ideal for casual and smart wear. Furthermore, you can send your unworn clothes for recycling in return for credit to spend at Neem.

The pop up store is a curation of ten brands alongside Neem London, all with the emphasis on sustainability. One brand is Vyn Switzerland a Swiss brand who make sneakers in Italy that have components that can be exchanged when worn, so extending the life of the shoe.

The Neem + pop up store at 7 Piccadilly Arcade until Christmas

Visit the Neem London pop up at 7, Piccadilly Arcade, London SW1Y 6NH for the ten weeks up to Christmas. See Neem London for more information on the store and the brand.

This is a sponsored post.

Grey Fox x Cordings of Piccadilly - A Collaboration

It's an absolute delight for me to announce a collaboration with classic British brand, Cordings of Piccadilly. They are everything I love about British menswear. They've  been around since 1839 and have remained true to their solid, practical, quality British heritage (see links below).

Wearing the Cordings x Grey Fox cord suit and wool check tie

I've written before about British style and its influence on western menswear. From preppy American and Ivy League to contemporary Japanese street style, staples like tweed, corduroy suits, polo and covert coats and outdoor and country sportswear have become classics of style and fashion. Cordings' longstanding place in the heritage of British men's style makes it a great privilege to work with them to put together this small largely British-made collection.

The collection is designed to be the start of a capsule wardrobe. By this I mean that every can be paired with the others. Rich reds and natural green runs through the palette, with the textures of corduroy, brushed Shetland knits and earthy Loden holding it together and providing contrast and variety. 

The collection comprises five pieces:

• Two Shetland jumpers in a rich red and a mossy green (crew and V-neck respectively), made in Scotland. I was keen to have the wool lightly brushed as a nod to the heritage of Scottish knitwear (the jumpers are brushed using the dried spiky seed heads of the teasel plant). I also wanted to recall the popularity of brushed Shetland ('Shaggy Shetlands') as icons of preppy and Ivy League styles.
• A check wool tie. This is inspired by a vintage tie which I own, made in Scotland in the 1950s.
• A brown corduroy suit. This is based on one made for me by Cordings a few years ago and which proved very popular when I showed it on Instagram. My suit was made from Italian cord but I'm delighted to say that the collaboration suit is made from a similar corduroy made in England some years ago and found in the archives of Brisbane Moss. Like all Cordings' suits, it's tailored to a high standard but at an affordable price.
• A Loden 'Coldstream' coat. Based loosely on the double breasted coats worn by the five British Foot Guards regiments during the colder months, it's made in London from a gorgeous mix of alpaca and wool. The buttons are real buffalo horn. The luxury cloth means that it isn't heavy and the coat is comfortable and warm to wear during the colder months.

For more on these items, how we came to design them, their costs and how to buy, go to Cordings x Grey Fox

Follow me on Instagram to see more @greyfoxstyle

More about this collaboration: This is a sponsored collaboration with Cordings of Piccadilly. For me, collaborations are like buses; you wait ages and then they all arrive together. This collaboration is the second since the blog was founded nearly eleven years ago and I have a third coming soon (the first was launched last month here). I've long wanted to apply my tastes to a real collection. After so long curating Grey Fox I have a fair idea what I like and, more importantly, what you like. I welcome any comments and feedback - you can message or e-mail me from my Instagram account (above).

Dress Codes: What is Cocktail Attire?

Over the last few years the party dress codes of 'black tie', 'lounge suit' or 'smart casual' have been joined by 'cocktail attire'. If you Google the term you'll find that it's interpreted very widely. I've seen features on cocktail attire illustrated with everything from black tie, through lounge suits to smart casual, showing how unclear the code is. Here is my own interpretation of the dress code.

"...a code that allows for sophisticated creativity while remaining essentially formal"

The answer to the question 'what is cocktail attire?' is to see what isn't covered by the common existing dress codes, namely black tie, lounge suit, smart casual and casual. Cocktail comes just under black tie in terms of formality, is more creative than lounge suit and more dapper than smart casual. 

Ideas for Cocktail Attire Dress Code for Summer and Winter

A sophisticated look

With cocktail attire you're looking for a sophisticated look; nothing scruffy. Essential elements are: sharp tailoring, crisp shirt or thin knitted roll neck or other fine cashmere and good quality shoes (loafers, monks, oxfords - black or dark brown). 

For jackets; velvet is very dapper (perhaps as a smoking jacket), corduroy might work as a midnight blue well-tailored jacket worn with a crisp white shirt and knitted burgundy silk tie. A blazer is central to many a cocktail outfit and would work well with a tailored denim shirt.

I might wear a tie - although a well-cut shirt with collar undone with a jacket will work as long as the effect isn't too casual. I'd avoid bow ties.

Trousers are best tailored and may be dark-coloured, tartan, check or be borrowed from your evening suit; lighter colours would suit a summer cocktail party. Turn-ups (cuffs) are generally considered too informal for black tie evening suits but I'd happily wear them as part of cocktail attire.

No jeans, no trainers, no chunky country shoes and certainly no ties at half mast: either wear one properly or not at all. I'd personally avoid tweeds or tan shoes; these are just too country or daywear for a semi-formal look, but they could work for some if dapper enough. 

Colour

Cocktail allows creativity. Experiment with colour, remembering that the key is sophisticated formality. If you wear a dark suit, spice it up with a silk waistcoat or coloured shirt. Avoid overall black; cocktail is about celebration and you have the freedom to move away from monochrome. Rich midnight blues, velvet bottle greens and soft ochres give a sophisticated edge that bright primary colours lack, although these may suit a summer event.

In general too busy a pattern may lack the sophistication needed for cocktail, having said that I include a Fair Isle V-neck paired with a tie and a Bode short sleeved shirt for a summer event in the images here, so see what you think. Almost anything by way of a sophisticated patterned shirt or fine jersey will do when paired with crisp tailoring and good quality footwear.

Accessories

A smart vintage watch (leave the chunky diver or pilot's chronograph at home), cufflinks, pocket square, a discreet boutonnière, minimalist silk tie and perhaps a silk evening scarf will all add to the overall impression.

In summary: for 'Cocktail Attire' don't get too formal by straying into black tie but conversely don't stray too far into untailored casual wear.

Karen Henriksen: British-Made Hats With a Twist

Over the years I've found myself wearing hats more and more. This may be partly to take advantage of their protection as my hair thins, but, more so, because a hat is such a vital part of the personal style equation. Whether a trilby, cap, beanie, hood or sou'wester, a hat adds character to a look as well as being highly practical at keeping off the sun or rain. 

Karen Henriksen is a London-based milliner making hats for men and women that offer something slightly different in terms of style, cut (Karen describes her asymmetric seams below) and practicability (links below):

Wearing Karen Henriksen: left: Shetland wool 'Jake' - right: linen-blend 'Selby'

Karen kindly made me two caps which I've worn regularly over the summer and autumn. They are beautifully made, fit well and offer something slightly different to the usual shapes and styles. I asked her to tell us something about her craft:

GF:  Please introduce yourself and your business.

KH: Originally from Yorkshire (from a farming family on my father's side). My mother's family were from Blackburn, and worked in the cotton mills - so I feel there might be a mixed heritage of hard work, textiles and tweed caps going on somewhere subliminal! I have spent most of my life and career in London.

My business focuses on headwear for everyday with a creative twist, an 'everyday elegance' - classic styles such as flat caps, trilby hats and baker-boy caps for men and women, with something a little different. I mainly work with the cut and sew method, creating shapes with interesting tailored seams where you might not expect them. Based at Cockpit Bloomsbury since 2005.

GF: How did you get into millinery and hat making?

KH: I completed a degree in fashion and textiles in Birmingham in the '80s. It became clear at University that fashion design was not for me - but the details of fashion (stitching, embroidery) as well as the craft of cutting and putting together a garment fascinated me (and still does!). I already had an interest in headwear back then and designed hats in addition to the clothes for my final collection. Pretty soon after graduating I started working in millinery, working my way around some of the best millinery work rooms in London, this was in the 1990's. During this time I developed the technical know-how to craft high quality hats, mainly occasion hats for women.

In the early 2000's I attended the Royal College to do a millinery MA. With the making skills I had already developed within the millinery industry, I was able to really focus on developing my creativity, be experimental and develop my own signature style. For my final collection I took utilitarian headwear such as headscarves, hoodies and sou'westers and transformed them into windswept, sculptural pieces. This led to experiments with asymmetric pattern-cutting, and my own version of a traditional English icon, the flat cap - revisited with an asymmetric twist, which became known as the Windswept Cap. 

The playful design ethos I developed for the Windswept collection was the foundation for my business, and is still at the heart of it today.

Karen Henriksen, Milliner

GF: How would you describe the style of both your men's and women's hats?

KH: Distinctive hats with tailoring detail, classic styles revisited with a contemporary twist, in high quality fabrics.

Being made from fabric (rather than blocked in felt or straw) is a practical choice and means I can offer trilby styles for example that can be stored easily and are more user-friendly than felt hats. But I also love the glamour and sophistication often associated with classic hats of the 1920s to 1950s, and always try to bring that to my designs (back to the 'everyday elegance' concept - mixing practicality with style).

My hats are firmly on the slow fashion side, being quite timeless in design and made to be worn for a lifetime.

GF: Do you make all the hats yourself?

KH: Pretty much! I have a small team in my studio at Cockpit in central London, but it's quite a lean operation. Controlling the making process completely in-house means I can offer special styles and design variations for clients - crucially, I also offer a large selection of head sizes. I have clients from far and wide (Iceland, South Korea and the USA!) buying from me because they love hats but can't get hold of one that fits them just right.

This is also more environmentally friendly as every hat is made to order, and to size - so less waste is involved.

After nearly 20 years making hats under my own brand, I still get so much pleasure from the making process.

GF: Your men's hat shapes are different from the traditional styles - how do you arrive at a style for a hat during the design process?

KH: My design process is hands-on, working directly with pattern-cutting - it is very time consuming and quite instinctual! To arrive at a finished design I would usually make between 4 and 10 toiles (test pieces made from calico or another test fabric). Sometimes the design process starts from a client comment or request, other times it begins with an idea for a variation or a hybrid between two styles. This is how I end up with hybrids such as beret-caps, flat cap/baker-boy cap, visor-caps, and trilby/pork pie hats... The list goes on!

GF: Have you seen a change in the attitudes of men towards hat buying?

KH: I'd say that they have really embraced buying online and are confident in doing so. It has certainly been a huge learning curve for me, designing and making for men (not sure where I am on the curve - still very much learning!) Certainly, the men's side of my business has grown so much in the past few years - I'd say from around 10% about 10 years ago, to about 50% now.

GF: How do you see the business developing over the next few years?

KH: I think the growth of the men's side is likely to continue - so much so that I may well wish to bring someone in to help me continue to develop this part of the business. 

I'm also now embarking on a new strand of work, creating art for interiors. Initially, this is a range of sculptural lightshades, just launched at London Design Festival last month.

My Karen Henriksen caps showing the tailoring detail and asymmetric seams

GF: Do you wear hats daily yourself? How would you describe your personal style?

KH: Yes, especially in the winter. And I always have a rain hat and a sun visor in my bag, ready for any eventuality!

When it comes to fashion I have a few favourites that are quite classic, mainly in black and khaki. Keeping it simple to highlight the hat, and/or maybe a statement necklace or ring. And I live in trainers (I walk everywhere!).

GF: Many thanks, Karen, both for the hats and for your thoughts above.

Contact: 

KAREN HENRIKSEN
Designer/Maker
www.karenhenriksen.co.uk

kh_millinery
kh_mens_hats
kh_couture_home

Studio E2P, Cockpit Bloomsbury
Northington Street
London WC1N 2NP
+44 (0)7946 530442

Ten Ways to Personal Style: Sarah Gilfillan of Sartoria Lab

Thankfully we all have a very personal styles and no two of us have identical tastes or wear the same clothes. In this feature we further explore the theme of style with the help of a great friend, personal stylist Sarah Gilfillan (link to her website below) who has advised me often on finer points of menswear style. 

Different styles: how do you find yours? (I'm with Svante Nybyggars)

Sarah advises men on menswear and style through her personal styling consultancy at Sartoria Lab (link below) and is therefore well-placed to give her thoughts on this knotty topic. Here are her Ten Points of Style:

• Find out what colours suit you – experiment with trying out new colours – what have people complimented you on the past? What makes your skin look healthy and brings attention to your eyes? 

Try and figure out if you have a warm skin tone (olive, freckly or golden looking) which suit colours like khaki, mustard and tan. Or a cool skin tone (pale or pink toned, or cool brown) – which look good in most blues, cooler greens like jade/forest and pink toned reds.

• Analyse the details of things you’ve bought and liked in the past - what did you like – was it the shape that suited you, did you like the fabric or texture, or was it the colour? Do you prefer things that are smooth and sleek or ones with tweedy textures and a more worn in look? Do you like a sharp silhouette or more relaxed and less structured shapes?

• Try out new things every so often. If you’re out shopping, take a “wild card” item into the fitting room with you – something you wouldn’t normally try on but like the look of. You might find it suits you and you’ve made a brand new discovery.

• Pay attention to the finishing off points – try on a size up or down to get the right fit, add a scarf or an interesting belt to your outfit. Fit is the starting point of looking good and accessories can take an outfit from looking okay to great.

• Think about your outfit as a whole – when you’re buying something new think about what you’ll wear it with. Can you layer things underneath it or on top of it? Does it need a contrast in colour between the top and the bottom to enhance it? Do the proportions work with things you have eg; if you move to wearing wider leg trousers from slim, you might need to update your footwear to something chunkier to balance them.

• Buy to fit your lifestyle –if you mainly wear practical, casual clothes every day, then spend the money on them rather than a suit that you wear twice a year. Look for practical items that have some unusual detailing, and try mixing interesting colours together, or accessorising with scarves, cool socks or belts to bring a modern edge to them.

• Go to different shops for new discoveries – and if they have helpful shop assistants, make use of them. Things change and the shop you’ve always been to may have a different designer now which isn’t your thing or you may have grown out of it. Have a look on Instagram to find new brands to try out.

• Contrasts can be interesting – if you have an outfit in one colour like navy then contrasting textures like denim, cashmere and suede work well. A blazer looks best with trousers in a contrasting colour or texture, so it doesn’t look like a mismatched suit. You can also play around with contrasting smart and casual items like a chambray shirt worn with a suit to make it look more casual.

• Update your hairstyle and glasses – you can have an amazing outfit but if your hairstyle and glasses look old fashioned then it can ruin it. It can just be a few tweaks to your hairstyle (using a bit of product / having a definite parting) or if you don’t have any hair, using a darker or more colourful frame will make more of an impact to your look.

• Figure out what you think is “you” and expand it eg: if you like tweed jackets could you try a tweed bomber jacket or overcoat? If you love the simplicity of a suit but don’t have the occasion to wear it could you replicate the pared back style with more casual things like a navy cardigan, white button down shirt, navy chinos and black leather trainers? If you always wear jeans could you try grey or ecru instead of blue, or cord instead of denim?

To contact Sarah about her personal styling consultancy services, see Sartoria Lab.

This feature follows on from my How To Find Your Personal Style: A Ten Point Guide

Socks from Peper Harow - Colour and Pattern

I lived through the era of tasteless socks. In the eighties and early nineties grown men would be seen wearing cartoon socks and matching ties. A result has been that I'm now very conservative in my sock choices. I've been tempted out of this bland caution by socks from British sock makers, Peper Harow who make some gorgeous patterned socks in the best possible taste. 

The socks are extremely well-made and comfortable to wear; the best of British sock manufacture. Peper Harow are proud of their British factory, their focus on sustainability and also on their adventurous designs. At a time when men, like me, are conservative in their sock tastes, it's welcome to see a brand leading us to more exciting sock choices.

Peper Harow socks

This is a sponsored collaboration with Peper Harow socks.

Joshua Ellis Cashmere x Grey Fox Scarves: A Collaboration

I'm delighted to announce a collaboration with Joshua Ellis Cashmere who manufacture luxury textiles at their mill in Yorkshire. I have selected four cashmere scarf designs to form the small and limited Grey Fox x Joshua Ellis Cashmere Collection. 

Introducing the Grey Fox x Joshua Ellis Cashmere Scarf Collection

The scarves are made in Yorkshire from 100% cashmere with a lightly brushed finish to give a luxurious soft finish. I've selected them to be a fusion of the best of high quality British manufacture and classic styling that complements any look, formal and casual. The scarves measure 30 x 180cm (plus fringes) and cost £129.00 each.

Please note that this is a sponsored collaboration as every scarf purchased will help with the costs of running Grey Fox Blog. For more information and to purchase please click on the links under each image below or follow the link at the end of this feature.

Grey Fox Modern Tartan & Plaid Scarf - Bedale

Grey Fox Tweed Cashmere Scarf - White, Tiger & Cobalt

Grey Fox Tweed Scarf - White Sapphire & Green

Grey Fox Modern Tartan Scarf - Crimson

I visited the Joshua Ellis factory in Yorkshire earlier this year and, as I always am when I visit British mills, workshops and factories, I was impressed by the pride and enthusiasm of those making the scarves. They know that they are using the best materials and manufacturing techniques to make products that are appreciated around the world, where British luxury products are sought after for their quality and heritage.

In buying a scarf you will not only be supporting this blog and  my media, but also supporting British manufacturing where products are made to last, sustainably and ethically.

Below are photos taken on my visit to the Joshua Ellis mill this year:

Teasels used to brush the cashmere to give a soft finish

The Grey Fox x Joshua Ellis Cashmere Scarf Collection

Click here to purchase or to see more about The Grey Fox x Joshua Ellis Cashmere Scarf Collection. 

Please note that I am paid a proportion of sales: this will go towards my costs of running Grey Fox Blog and @greyfoxstyle on Instagram.