This is a difficult time for small businesses and for tailors in particular, but I wanted to introduce you to one for you to bear in mind for better days ahead - Hunter Kingsley Tailors, based in Ayr, Scotland.
I first came across owner Alan Moore some years ago when I featured his previous brand Ten30 which I featured here on the blog (link below). I asked him to tell us about about his latest venture:
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| Alan Moore in a very stylish Prince of Wales check suit |
Q: Alan, please introduce yourself and give a background to your tailoring business.
Whilst studying textile design at Glasgow School of Art I knew I wanted to work for myself in some capacity, although I was never sure of how or where or why. After graduating in 2008 I set about starting my own business and started to create one off womenswear pieces from a small studio in the West End of Glasgow. This time in my career was a fantastic creative outlet for me and brought about a host of opportunities from working with Scottish Government, to big name drinks brands as well as hosting my own unique catwalk shows with a very low-fi, raw feel to them.
As much exciting and expressive as this was, I had little or no business direction or acumen; I was making clothes and pieces of art but not making any money from it. I worked in bars and shops to earn money to buy fabric and put on shows all the while learning business on the side.
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| Bespoke tailoring from Hunter Kingsley |
I was offered a commission from Harris Tweed Hebrides to design and manufacture a small collection of menswear; the collection of three jackets were to be made in Scotland and reflect the rich heritage of the cloth as well as showcase contemporary design. The project didn’t get any further than the sample stage, however the samples were used in a collaborative photoshoot with photographer Simon Murphy [featured here on the blog] The shoot was sold to Scotland on Sunday Magazine who ran a 5 page spread with the images and a small interview about the changing face of Scottish fashion, especially men in fashion.
This was a pivotal point in my career and as the paper was released, the phone started ringing, we started taking orders and ultimately started making money. This project was a huge success and clients who had ordered jackets started asking about suits and tailoring. I guess they really enjoyed the experience and customer service they received so much that they were keen to come back and order more pieces.
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| Cloth from British mills |
At this point I had to find a tailoring partner to work with who could meet the standards and ethos that I was looking for. My background is in design and retail, as much as I tried to teach myself pattern cutting and garment construction; it wasn’t something I was keen to pursue or to perfect, I wanted to work with someone who could cut and sew with my design direction and measurements. I met my tailoring partner in London early 2015 and we’ve been working together ever since.
We’re not a large company by any means, we see around 100 clients a year and I’m quite happy with that. Every garment we make is made in the UK and cut from some of the best UK cloth. Each garment is bespoke to the client, with customer service and experience at the core of what we do.
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| A Scottish theme |
Q: What is your approach to tailoring - what do you offer the client in terms of style and service?
More often than not having a bespoke suit from Hunter Kingsley is one of the first times our client has experienced bespoke tailoring, so I try to make the process as relaxing and enjoyable as possible.
When a client comes to us they usually have a rough idea of the styling of the suit they're looking for so it’s my job to help them realise that through our wide selection of cloth and styling options. We only work with natural fibres from UK mills and I guide each client through the selection to ensure they choose a fabric both fulfils their style brief but is also appropriate for the occasion.
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| Wedding style |
I think that tailoring is all about balance, it’s about making the client look their absolute best and working with their proportions. I like to think that our suits get noticed for their fantastic fit and subtle detailing.
Aside from tailoring we also have a range of accessories and a bespoke shirt service to complete the look. Similar to our approach to tailoring, our accessories are made in the UK and I try to curate a small selection that changes frequently. From our cashmere scarves woven 10 minutes from our shop, to our leather belts and dog collars made on Arran just across the water, our accessories offer a unique finishing touch to a suit or can act as in introduction to the brand for clients who aren’t quite ready to explore tailoring.
Q: Where do you see the business going over the next few years?
Over the last 10 years or I’ve changed direction a few times, we’ve moved studios and worked on various projects. At this point in time I feel like the shop we’re in now is the culmination of all those experiences, it’s the perfect setting to continue to grow as a small business.
Tailoring and suits will always be at the heart of the business and I’m always keen to improve our customer service and learn more about the industry to deliver as much value as possible to each client. Aside from that I’m working on expanding our accessories range to include some unique handmade items such as our hand-sewn silk lapel roses as well as exploring some homeware products. I think we have the potential to build the brand as a lifestyle and I’m interested in how we achieve that through unique product offering and customer service.
Q: How would you describe your personal style?
I’d say my style is quite understated, I like classic styles and tend to stick to that. I’m quite minimalist in my clothing choices, I like to buy and wear one thing of great quality rather than have many things that can be thrown away and don’t mean much. I like the soft finish offered by flannel and other such material opposed to the sharpness of a fine worsted, although there’s always an occasion for that too.
Q: Do you have any particular sources of inspiration in your work or how you dress yourself?
I like pattern and colour and texture, I have a lot of fun pairing seemingly contrasting or conflicting styles. I think if it’s done well, clashing patterns and textures can make a look interesting. In terms of clothing and style inspiration I’m always drawn to the same sources; the Royal Family and 60’s America. I enjoy the sense of occasion that both seem to have. There’s a similarity in that there’s a nod to tradition but awareness of moving forward and an excitement in that.
I also get really inspired by architecture, in particular brutalist / modernist styles and art deco, I like the clean lines and the bold shapes throughout.
With many thanks to Alan Moore. For more information or to book an appointment, see Hunter Kingsley.
This is an unsponsored post.
