Kit Blake describes itself as "a modern British tailoring brand for men who don't wear suits". Characterised by relaxed cut trousers and impeccable tailoring, it gives a tailored look that falls short of the formal suit. While encouraging tailored jackets and trousers, founder Chris Modoo prefers these to be made from complementary rather than the same cloths.
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| I'm wearing Kit Blake Aleksander pleated trousers with 2" turn ups |
Available exclusively through The Rake Atelier (link below), the collection is classic but ahead of the curve in that the hero trousers, the Aleksander, are higher-waisted and deeply pleated. Best worn with a 2" turn-up, they are redolent of a vintage style, yet are, in my view, anticipating what will be available on the high street in a year or two when men eventually tire of uncomfortably slim fits. Comfortable is the best way of describing them: wear them and you'll never return to low-waisted and skinny trousers.
I met Chris recently and asked him about Kit Blake.
GF: Chris I first met you when you were at Chester Barrie where your designs made such an impression in the good old days of London Collections: Men. How did you come to be running your own brand, Kit Blake?
CM: I parted ways with Chester Barrie in the summer of 2017. I was originally looking for a similar role but thought I would use the opportunity to explore other options. A conversation with a friend led to thinking about opportunities in menswear. I always believed trousers were under-serviced with little between chinos and suit trousers. Kit Blake launched exclusively on The Rake in October 2018. I think we are the first brand to be born online with them. It is a privilege to be sold amongst the heritage brands.
GF: Kit Blake - who he?
CM: My fake name on Savile Row. Kit is an archaic version of Christopher and I happened to live down Blake’s Lane. I used it for ordering suits for myself and a few friends in the industry remember my pseudonym. I never planned for it to be a label but put it on an initial presentation as “TBC” looked weak. It suits the brand.
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| Chris Modoo dressed in Kit Blake KB Creative DirectorPhotographer @a.d.lawrence |
GF: Tell us about Kit Blake's style - how would you describe it? Does it reflect your own personal style?
CM: Informal elegance. Upgrading from jeans or chinos to trousers is an easy way to upgrade your wardrobe.
My own personal style is a strong influence on the brand. Particularly my love of double-breasted waistcoats but KB is a little more casual than my usual style. I can be a little anachronistic.
GF: How do you see Kit Blake developing over the next few months and years?
CM: More styles and fabric options. Our first style, the “Aleksandar” pleated trouser has a cult following and we are offering different versions in gaberdine, tweed, linen and tropical worsteds. We are also looking to add a drawstring waist option later this year.
We are also introducing a Made-to-Order service on trousers.
GF: How do you see menswear styles developing?
CM: The suit, and by that I mean the matching lounge suit, has become formal wear with only limited use. We will see more mixing up of styles with casual elements blended into tailored looks. I would like to see a return to proper clothing: proper trousers, real shoes and quality shirts & knitwear - real clothing for grown-ups.
GF: A question I always hate, but I'm going to ask it - who or what are your influences in designing your clothes?
CM: Firstly, what I need to wear and how I like to dress but from an aesthetic point-of-view, I am a fan of cinema and television. Most of my fashion references are film-related.
LINKS:
Kit Blake on The Rake Atelier
