Kit Blake describes itself as "a modern British tailoring brand for men who don't wear suits". Characterised by relaxed cut trousers and impeccable tailoring, it gives a tailored look that falls short of the formal suit. While encouraging tailored jackets and trousers, founder Chris Modoo prefers these to be made from complementary rather than the same cloths.
I'm wearing Kit Blake Aleksander pleated trousers with 2" turn ups |
Available exclusively through The Rake Atelier (link below), the collection is classic but ahead of the curve in that the hero trousers, the Aleksander, are higher-waisted and deeply pleated. Best worn with a 2" turn-up, they are redolent of a vintage style, yet are, in my view, anticipating what will be available on the high street in a year or two when men eventually tire of uncomfortably slim fits. Comfortable is the best way of describing them: wear them and you'll never return to low-waisted and skinny trousers.
I met Chris recently and asked him about Kit Blake.
GF: Chris I first met you when you were at Chester Barrie where your designs made such an impression in the good old days of London Collections: Men. How did you come to be running your own brand, Kit Blake?
CM: I parted ways with Chester Barrie in the summer of 2017. I was originally looking for a similar role but thought I would use the opportunity to explore other options. A conversation with a friend led to thinking about opportunities in menswear. I always believed trousers were under-serviced with little between chinos and suit trousers. Kit Blake launched exclusively on The Rake in October 2018. I think we are the first brand to be born online with them. It is a privilege to be sold amongst the heritage brands.
GF: Kit Blake - who he?
CM: My fake name on Savile Row. Kit is an archaic version of Christopher and I happened to live down Blake’s Lane. I used it for ordering suits for myself and a few friends in the industry remember my pseudonym. I never planned for it to be a label but put it on an initial presentation as “TBC” looked weak. It suits the brand.
Chris Modoo dressed in Kit Blake KB Creative DirectorPhotographer @a.d.lawrence |
GF: Tell us about Kit Blake's style - how would you describe it? Does it reflect your own personal style?
CM: Informal elegance. Upgrading from jeans or chinos to trousers is an easy way to upgrade your wardrobe.
My own personal style is a strong influence on the brand. Particularly my love of double-breasted waistcoats but KB is a little more casual than my usual style. I can be a little anachronistic.
GF: How do you see Kit Blake developing over the next few months and years?
CM: More styles and fabric options. Our first style, the “Aleksandar” pleated trouser has a cult following and we are offering different versions in gaberdine, tweed, linen and tropical worsteds. We are also looking to add a drawstring waist option later this year.
We are also introducing a Made-to-Order service on trousers.
GF: How do you see menswear styles developing?
CM: The suit, and by that I mean the matching lounge suit, has become formal wear with only limited use. We will see more mixing up of styles with casual elements blended into tailored looks. I would like to see a return to proper clothing: proper trousers, real shoes and quality shirts & knitwear - real clothing for grown-ups.
GF: A question I always hate, but I'm going to ask it - who or what are your influences in designing your clothes?
CM: Firstly, what I need to wear and how I like to dress but from an aesthetic point-of-view, I am a fan of cinema and television. Most of my fashion references are film-related.
LINKS:
Kit Blake on The Rake Atelier