This is the first of a new series of features on menswear classics and what better way to start than with men's coats?
Here I want to look at real coats - those cut well below the knee. We tend now to wear shorter coats; well above knee-length and of limited use in rain and cold. However the longer-length over and top coat are making a return: and what better to stay warm and stylish on a chilly day, as Mel Ferrer and Audrey Hepburn demonstrate below?
Here I want to look at real coats - those cut well below the knee. We tend now to wear shorter coats; well above knee-length and of limited use in rain and cold. However the longer-length over and top coat are making a return: and what better to stay warm and stylish on a chilly day, as Mel Ferrer and Audrey Hepburn demonstrate below?
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| Mel Ferrer and Audrey Hepburn share a proper men's coat |
Overcoats and Top Coats
The overcoat is a heavy coat that's designed to go over other clothes; a suit for example. A top coat tends to be lighter and fills the function of a long jacket; going over a shirt and/or knitwear, but not necessarily being of full enough cut to fit over a blazer.
Go for something full and generously cut if you want to wear it over a suit jacket (or to wrap your favourite person in as above) and something tailored closer to the body if you'll wear it over knitwear or even a shirt and tie.
Go for something full and generously cut if you want to wear it over a suit jacket (or to wrap your favourite person in as above) and something tailored closer to the body if you'll wear it over knitwear or even a shirt and tie.
Where to Buy a Longer Coat
Longer coats were worn by every man until the sixties saw new shorter styles such as the 'car coat' and the 'Gannex' as worn by PM Harold Wilson. The vintage vibe to today's menswear styles is driving the return to the below-knee coat of old. Tweed is the ultimate material, water resistant and warm, but a heavier cashmere, loden, covert twill or even heavy corduroy will provide a plainer finish for those not wanting a check or herringbone finish.
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| Gloverall Grayson Long Peacoat |
Where can you find the traditional coat? Try the longer-established menswear stores such as Gloverall for the 'Monty' duffle (below) or the Grayson Long Peacoat (pictured above) and Cordings of Piccadilly for the covert coat or tweed oversize coat (below).
Younger brands like Private White V.C. are also seeing the return to longer coats (see the result of their collaboration with Fortnums below).
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| Cordings Follifoot Tweed overcoat |
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| Gloverall Monty duffle coat |
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| Prince of Wales check coat Fortnums x Private White V.C. |
Traditional country sports brands, like Farlows Wellington Donegal tweed coat (pictured below) will also ensure that you can buy the coats your grandfather would have worn (see below image):
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| Farlows Wellington Donegal Tweed Topcoat (I'd describe it as an overcoat) |
Another alternative is to try vintage, like the tweed coat which I bought from Mary's Living & Giving, a charity shop supporting Save The Children or the check tweed coat below from vintage shop, Hornets of Kensington (both pictured below). Check condition carefully and have the coat cleaned professionally in case any moths lurk in the depths of the coat.
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| Vintage Brora tweed coat from Mary's Living & Giving |
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| Vintage tweed coat from Hornets of Kensington |
Finally, the ideal coat can be achieved by having one made to your precise specifications by a tailor: made to measure or bespoke. The coat below is from Dashing Tweeds, whose creative approach to tweed design will guarantee something different. Below that is a tweed top coat made for me by tailor Alice Burkitt from tweed designed by Araminta Campbell.
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| Dashing Tweeds |
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| Alice Burkitt Tailor x Araminta Campbell Tweed (image Tom Edwards) |
The oversize overcoat or longer topcoat are essential stylish alternatives to peacoats, truncated coats and anoraks. Warm and, in tweed especially, water resistant, they are worth considering as additions to your winter wardrobe.
This is an unsponsored post. Some of the items above were lent for photography, some photographed in store, some bought by me and some gifted for review.
Links to suppliers mentioned above:
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