Second in my series 'A Blogger's Favourites' is a country tweed field/shooting coat by English Utopia. Made in England, this jacket has a waterproof internal taped seam membrane, making it water resistant and windproof. I was sent it for review, but it quickly became a much-worn favourite.
English Utopia is a brand that needs to be better known as they make some very interesting and original country and outdoor wear. The company was started in 2012 by Gary Newbold, former professional racing cyclist (and cyclists know better than many how to keep comfortable in adverse conditions). Based in Harrogate, Gary gains inspiration from the Yorkshire countryside. Certainly the colours of this tweed coat blend perfectly with woodland and mountains. It's silent, comfortable and warm to wear.
I asked English Utopia to tell me more about the construction, as the concept of a waterproof tweed jacket is unusual. Here is what I was told:
The jacket is constructed in three parts. There is the normal inner lining and outer tweed fabric, but then there is a third ‘layer’ and this inserted between them. It’s what is traditionally known as a waterproof and breathable membrane. It acts as a windproof and waterproof barrier from the outside, whilst allowing moisture (perspiration) to escape from the inside....Tweed jackets constructed like this are then tested to see just how waterproof they really are and this is done using what is called a ‘water column test’. A 2 cm diameter tube stands vertically over a piece of material. The tube is filled with water, and the water's height in millimetres when leakage begins becomes the waterproof rating. A piece of fabric that can withstand 20,000mm of water pressure will have a rating of 20,000mm or 20K. Generally speaking, anything over 5,000mm will do the job. This jacket is 10,000mm which is enough to keep out the rain all day long.
The outer tweed also has a ‘nano’ treatment on the surface, Nano-Tex improves the water-repellent property of fabric by creating nano-whiskers, which are hydrocarbons and 1/1000 of the size of a typical wool fibre that are added to the fabric to create a peach fuzz effect without lowering the strength of the wool. The spaces between the whiskers on the fabric are smaller than the typical drop of water, but still larger than water molecules; water thus remains on the top of the whiskers and above the surface of the fabric. However, liquid can still pass through the fabric, if pressure is applied and why you need the membrane described in paragraph one. The performance is permanent while maintaining breathability. This means that rain will form into beads and run off the surface. It’s a first line of resistance and stops the fabric itself from ‘wetting out’. it’s important because at the end of a day in the countryside, it’s great that you’re dry but quite useful if the coat is too!!
My English Utopia Prufrock tweed field jacket with genuine dog hairs |
My experience of the jacket on a very wet and windy day was that, while it kept me dry, the tweed does get wet - the nano treatment seemed to have limits on my example. As a coat for showery days, or for unexpected rain, it works well and, if like me you love tweed, this makes good use of this wonder cloth. For persistent rain, I'd stick to a waxed finish or Ventile for a country coat.
However, I love the action back, the buttons and general fit and cut of the coat, although I'd like to see more adequate flaps on the side pockets. Overall this is the best field coat I've ever owned - ideal for pootling around outdoors or for country sports; the action back gives plenty of shoulder movement for shooting or wielding binoculars. See English Utopia for more on their carefully designed range of countrywear for men and women - I hope to bring you more of this brand in the future.
However, I love the action back, the buttons and general fit and cut of the coat, although I'd like to see more adequate flaps on the side pockets. Overall this is the best field coat I've ever owned - ideal for pootling around outdoors or for country sports; the action back gives plenty of shoulder movement for shooting or wielding binoculars. See English Utopia for more on their carefully designed range of countrywear for men and women - I hope to bring you more of this brand in the future.
With thanks to English Utopia for providing this jacket for review.