OHW? stylish waterproof boots for autumn/winter

It can be hard to find robust, waterproof boots for more stylish country and dog walks. There are many available from outdoor and mountain shops that owe more to practicality than appearance.  The unusually named Ohw? have got design and looks right with their new (for Autumn/Winter '15) waterproof range of Goodyear welted boots with an internal waterproof membrane in hydrophobic full grain leather and treated suede and wool.

OHW? have released their new range for AW15

I've tried a pair of their Holden boots on wet and muddy dog walks. Robustly constructed of strong but pliable leather and suede, I found them comfortable and dry. Their moccasin shape, leather laces and rubber/phylon soles give them a stylish appearance far removed from the often unattractive approach shoes and boots sold for lighter duty walks.

Holden waterproof boots from OHW?

Ohw? aim to bring a fresh approach to men’s footwear with contemporary and functional designs manufactured in their own factory in China. It's refreshing to see a brand willing to be so open about the provenance of its products. I feel that the variety, quality and design of the finished product shows that they've achieved their aim.

To see their varied and stylish range of shoes and boots go to the Ohw? website or click on the advert on the right hand column of this blog.

The Loake shoe store: the lost art of selling shoes

Buying shoes is easy: you just buy online or nip into the department store and try on a few until you find some that look good and even may fit. That just about describes my shoe buying habits until I was recently invited to the Loake store in Princes Arcade off Piccadilly in London. Soon after meeting the manager, Tony Ryan, I realised that there is much more to buying a good pair of shoes.

The knowledge of the store staff of shoe construction is unequalled and this is an important factor in selecting the shoes you want, matching them to purpose and to your foot size and shape. The many models of Loake shoe are constructed around different lasts, each of which best fits certain customers. Tony and his staff will find out what you require from your shoes and measure and fit them with care. It's best to wear your new shoes at home on carpets for a while to ensure comfort. Loake will take back shoes that don't fit well, as long as they are in as new condition.

And the Loake service extends to  more than simply selecting shoes on the basis of fit and comfort. I was impressed that Tony was prepared to discuss the colours and outfits you might want to wear them with. He will even direct customers wanting to buy a complete outfit to tailors and retailers whose products will fit with the type, colour and construction of the new shoes and will suggest suitable styling. This deep knowledge and understanding of menswear takes the service way beyond a mere shoe fitting. 

The shoes I selected: Loake Perth from the 1880 range in burgundy

With Tony's patient help, I selected a pair of made in England burgundy Loake Perth plain derbies in soft and comfortable leather with Goodyear welted double leather soles. Unsurprisingly, Tony and his staff see many loyal customers returning to their shop. To see a Google tour of the shop, click here. For more on Loake, their shoes and suppliers, see their website here.

This feature was written in partnership with Loake.

Johnstons of Elgin Autumn/Winter 2015 (and well done for using an older model)

Johnstons of Elgin continue to produce (in Scotland) high quality, well-designed and classic menswear, as their AW15 collection shows. Like other confident and outstanding brands, they have no fear of using an older model to influence that growing and affluent demographic, the older man. See Johnstons of Elgin for more information on their knitwear, tailoring and accessories.

Gloverall 1951 Collection - fifties motor racing inspired

Gloverall make their products in England. Their 1951 Collection takes inspiration from old images of of early fifties Grand Prix motor racing. As you'd expect, the duffel coat takes an important place in the collection, as do car coats and bombers in a variety of fabrics: herringbone tweed, waxed and bonded cottons, wool and chunky knits. 

Here is all that a man would need to wear to bomb over to Silverstone in his British racing green MGTD to watch Fangio, Parnell and others wresting their Alfa Romeos, BRMs, Ferraris and Maseratis around the track.

Monty duffel coat - Gloverall 1951 collection

I first saw this collection earlier this year and was impressed by its classic feel; my favourite piece was the herringbone tweed bomber (the bomber also comes in a waxed and quilted rally jacket style finish). For more information and to buy, click on Gloverall 1951. There is a partner collection for women.

E Tautz photoshoot: Made in Britain style for all men

When reviewing the E Tautz AW15 show at London Collections:Men in January I described it as 'one of the most inspirational shows...' I loved the monochrome colours, British tweeds, knits, textures and generous cuts and styles so reminiscent of mid-twentieth century menswear. 

I felt that this was a glimpse of what we'll see on the high street in a few years. My only reservation (nothing to do with the clothes) was that E Tautz used only young models in the show. I assume this fits with a vision of E Tautz as a brand for the young man, but these are clothes should be for all ages of men as they are so rooted in the classic. And why should young men have all the fun? So I decided to try them for myself.

Like most older men, I'm prone to sartorial caution and I approached these clothes with curiosity and nervousness.  I knew I'd be outside my comfort zone with such styles, rooted in the forties and fifties, but as regulars will know, I am keen to push the boundaries in my search for brands and styles. 

To my surprise, I loved them. The generously cut shapes are streets away from mean, modern slim fits which often leave the wearer looking as though they've grown out of their clothes. They are comfortable and stylish because they are different yet grounded in the classic styles our grandfathers wore. With regards to fit, they're more suited to the older man (and his diverse shapes) than contemporary styles. Whatever you may think of them, give them a try and, like me, you may be converted.

And the cherry on the cake is that these clothes are made in Britain, mostly in E Tautz's recently acquired factory in Blackburn. The fabrics feel luxurious and the construction solid. Prices are not outrageous for the quality, uniqueness, materials and British manufacture.

I was keen to ask Sarah Gilfillan, who's expertise at making men look stylish is unparalleled, to comment on the collection:

" Like David, when I saw the E.Tautz show I loved it. It was so refreshing and exciting to see a different silhouette coming through after years of "skinniness".

When he asked me to be involved in the shoot though, I admit I had reservations. David is a naturally slim build and I thought perhaps it just wouldn't be flattering on him. But, I was pleasantly surprised!

The shapes take a bit of adjusting to as they're so different from the super-slim cuts we've got used to and which have become the norm. We found it was important to get the fit on the waist and shoulders exactly right to avoid it looking as if the clothes were too big. Once we'd sized down on a couple of things, the cuts were so brilliant that we were all instantly converted!

It won't be to everyone's taste, but give it a few years and I'm sure most men will be happy to go back to these more comfortable, roomy shapes. I'm now building a list in my head as to which of my clients I'll be taking into E Tautz this Autumn."

Many, many thanks to the wonderful people at E Tautz, Duke Street, London W1, who happily allowed us to raid their stock and disrupt their Friday afternoon for the shoot. Their support, suggestions and friendliness were generously given and much appreciated.

I'd like to thank my usual team, Nick Maroudias, photographer, who is a real pleasure to work with and Sarah Gilfillan who always gets the best out of clothes and wearer; you can use her personal styling services yourself at Sartoria Lab. We have loved working together on photo shoots to show how brands' products can be worn by the older man.

We are available for styling and shoots, so please get in touch if you'd like to open up your market to that huge and affluent demographic, the older man - greyfoxblog@gmail.com

Links:

Clothes (details below): E Tautz

Sunglasses: (mine) Oliver Peoples

Belt: (borrowed) Charlie Borrow

Shoes: (mine) Joseph Cheaney & Sons

Socks: Scott-Nichol from Pantherella

Watch: (mine) vintage Smiths De Luxe

Thanks to David at Cirrus who's cut my hair for some 27 years. Tel. 020 8977 2379

Details of the E Tautz clothes (all made in the UK):

Double breasted charcoal herringbone suit: Jacket £595, trousers £425

Blue soft collar cotton overshirt: £270

Navy Harrington jacket, 100% cotton ventile: £650

Khaki field trousers: £189

Raw denim classic jean: £159

8-ply Icelandic roll neck: £595

White poplin slim-fit shirt: £160

Ottoman mid-blue wool and silk tie: £119

Thomas Clipper: Made to Measure Shaving Sets

Thomas Clipper (whose excellent, well-balanced Mk K razor I use daily) can now make you a custom-made shaving set comprising razors fitted to your glove size, custom shave trunks, individually scented soaps and oils and one-of-a-kind bowls and brushes (see image below for examples). 

Orders will take anything from three weeks to three months or more to fulfil, depending on the nature of the customer’s requirements. Go to Thomas Clipper Bespoke for more information. Prices start at £399.

‘Off the shelf’ small batch and limited edition Thomas Clipper products are also available in Shoreditch at the Dandy Lab’s experimental storefront and in Leicester at Harriman and Co boutique. Custom razor etching is available as standard on the Mark One and Mark K razors. See Thomas Clipper for information.

Marks & Spencer AW15 - Best of British

Marks & Spencer continue their support for British-made menswear for this autumn/winter with a stylish sportingly styled Best of British collection that includes trainers from our favourite Norman Walsh of Bolton.

See Marks & Spencer for their full range of menswear including the AW15 collection which will be added over the next few weeks.

What's a man to wear at Goodwood Revival?

I made a very late decision to go to Goodwood Revival this year and, of course, couldn't get tickets*. The annual festival of vintage motor racing, music, aircraft and much else gets increasingly popular every year. It's the sort of event that it's not worth attending unless you dress appropriately. However, it can be hard for a man to decide what to wear, so here are some ideas from images taken last year. 

Unless you go dressed as a fifties car mechanic, or a member of the armed forces, the commonest outfit for a man is something forties or fifties in style. No skinny jeans or short, tight jackets - it's all about generous and comfortable tailoring; the look of the British gentleman.

Vintage clothes are a specialist market and for the enthusiast, but you can out together the look with modern clothes. The demob suit would be ideal, otherwise a tweed suit or jacket or blazer (or linen if it's warm) with a shirt, tie and cap or hat. Brogues or traditional English-made oxfords, derbies and boots are essential footwear. Add a cravat from Cravat Club to complete the classic look.

Image of Grey Fox by Jonathan Daniel Pryce - Goodwood Revival 2014

My tweed suit (above) was made for me by Susannah Hall Tailors, shoes by Loake and hat by Failsworth. Last year's Goodwood Revival was warm and a linen suit might have been better - this year looks as though it will be cooler.

Whatever the weather, have a wonderful time. Goodwood Revival, 11-13 September 2015.

*I should add that kind souls have since offered me tickets, but I have had to turn them down as I'd made alternative arrangements (which you'll hear more about soon) when we first realised that tickets were sold out.

Jaeger AW15: classic menswear photographed by David Bailey

I haven't featured Jaeger on the blog before, so was pleased to hear from them with details of their Autumn/Winter collection for men. Characterised by soft monochrome colours, classic shapes and fabrics from around the world which include British Tweed, Jaeger menswear covers both formal and casual wear.

These images taken by David Bailey of model James Penfold and they show the collection at its best. See Jaeger's website for more information and to buy.

Holdall & Co: leather goods made in England - 30% off sale

Holdall & Co have been mentioned many times on this blog before. Their beautifully made leather folios, brief cases and wallets are made in England to the highest standards. Founder Rai Navickaite is offering an end of season reduction of 30% for seven days with a discount code of SUMMER30. 

In these images I am holding some of Rai's products. The images were shot by Jonathan Daniel Pryce in the City of London. Visit Holdall & Co for full details and to buy.

Book review: The Sartorialist X - celebrating 10 years of street style

Published today is Scott Schuman's third book, The Sartorialist X, which celebrates the tenth anniversary of his blog, The Sartorialist, and covers the best of the last three years, spanning New York, London, Milan, as well as more unusual places like Peru, Bali, India, and Bhutan.

It was The Sartorialist that fuelled my search for style as an older man in the early days of Grey Fox Blog. As can be seen below, his shots of older men of style provide us with much inspiration.

The Sartorialist is still one of my most-visited blogs. In capturing what men and women, young and old, are wearing on the street he has been partly responsible for starting a 'ground up' approach to fashion, with trends being dictated by those selecting and wearing clothes, rather than by the fashion houses themselves.

This book, his third selection from the images on his blog, shows the continuing development of his skills as street and portrait photographer. From a photography perspective it's the best of his books. His portraits capture colour, style and character with immense subtly and power. He is particularly adept at capturing female beauty.

Until recently I felt that too many of his subjects, photographed at fashion weeks and shows, were linked to the fashion industry. This resulted in rather clone-like menswear style. There's nothing wrong with images of Italians at Pitti Uomo dressed in blazers, jeans and brogues without socks, but I wanted more of the ordinary man and woman on the street; those unrelated to fashion. The Sartorialist X suggests that he is now doing this and photographs from countries outside the western fashion scene demonstrate a refreshing new approach. For me, real personal style comes from within, not from the catwalk or those in the industry whose lives are ruled by what they wear.

The Sartorialist X should be on the bookshelves of all interested in photography, street style, fashion and men's and women's clothes. Published by Penguin priced at £20.00.

Buy the book here The Sartorialist: X (The Sartorialist Volume 3)

All images above by The Sartorialist.