When reviewing the E Tautz AW15 show at London Collections:Men in January I described it as 'one of the most inspirational shows...' I loved the monochrome colours, British tweeds, knits, textures and generous cuts and styles so reminiscent of mid-twentieth century menswear.
I felt that this was a glimpse of what we'll see on the high street in a few years. My only reservation (nothing to do with the clothes) was that E Tautz used only young models in the show. I assume this fits with a vision of E Tautz as a brand for the young man, but these are clothes should be for all ages of men as they are so rooted in the classic. And why should young men have all the fun? So I decided to try them for myself.
Like most older men, I'm prone to sartorial caution and I approached these clothes with curiosity and nervousness. I knew I'd be outside my comfort zone with such styles, rooted in the forties and fifties, but as regulars will know, I am keen to push the boundaries in my search for brands and styles.
To my surprise, I loved them. The generously cut shapes are streets away from mean, modern slim fits which often leave the wearer looking as though they've grown out of their clothes. They are comfortable and stylish because they are different yet grounded in the classic styles our grandfathers wore. With regards to fit, they're more suited to the older man (and his diverse shapes) than contemporary styles. Whatever you may think of them, give them a try and, like me, you may be converted.
And the cherry on the cake is that these clothes are made in Britain, mostly in E Tautz's recently acquired factory in Blackburn. The fabrics feel luxurious and the construction solid. Prices are not outrageous for the quality, uniqueness, materials and British manufacture.
I was keen to ask Sarah Gilfillan, who's expertise at making men look stylish is unparalleled, to comment on the collection:
" Like David, when I saw the E.Tautz show I loved it. It was so refreshing and exciting to see a different silhouette coming through after years of "skinniness".When he asked me to be involved in the shoot though, I admit I had reservations. David is a naturally slim build and I thought perhaps it just wouldn't be flattering on him. But, I was pleasantly surprised!The shapes take a bit of adjusting to as they're so different from the super-slim cuts we've got used to and which have become the norm. We found it was important to get the fit on the waist and shoulders exactly right to avoid it looking as if the clothes were too big. Once we'd sized down on a couple of things, the cuts were so brilliant that we were all instantly converted!It won't be to everyone's taste, but give it a few years and I'm sure most men will be happy to go back to these more comfortable, roomy shapes. I'm now building a list in my head as to which of my clients I'll be taking into E Tautz this Autumn."
Many, many thanks to the wonderful people at E Tautz, Duke Street, London W1, who happily allowed us to raid their stock and disrupt their Friday afternoon for the shoot. Their support, suggestions and friendliness were generously given and much appreciated.
I'd like to thank my usual team, Nick Maroudias, photographer, who is a real pleasure to work with and Sarah Gilfillan who always gets the best out of clothes and wearer; you can use her personal styling services yourself at Sartoria Lab. We have loved working together on photo shoots to show how brands' products can be worn by the older man.
We are available for styling and shoots, so please get in touch if you'd like to open up your market to that huge and affluent demographic, the older man - greyfoxblog@gmail.com
We are available for styling and shoots, so please get in touch if you'd like to open up your market to that huge and affluent demographic, the older man - greyfoxblog@gmail.com
Links:
Clothes (details below): E Tautz
Sunglasses: (mine) Oliver Peoples
Belt: (borrowed) Charlie Borrow
Shoes: (mine) Joseph Cheaney & Sons
Socks: Scott-Nichol from Pantherella
Watch: (mine) vintage Smiths De Luxe
Thanks to David at Cirrus who's cut my hair for some 27 years. Tel. 020 8977 2379
Details of the E Tautz clothes (all made in the UK):
Double breasted charcoal herringbone suit: Jacket £595, trousers £425
Blue soft collar cotton overshirt: £270
Navy Harrington jacket, 100% cotton ventile: £650
Khaki field trousers: £189
Raw denim classic jean: £159
8-ply Icelandic roll neck: £595
White poplin slim-fit shirt: £160
Ottoman mid-blue wool and silk tie: £119